Information Request Thread

[GTS LAID]

ROUGH IDLE:

OK Drew... you have an irregular idle.. this can be caused by a number of things:

I'm going to list it by symptom and by problem:

High Idling Speed: A/C switch circuit or ECM Power Source circuit
Low Idling Speed: A/C switch circuit or Fuel Pump Control Circuit
Rough Idling: Compression (would suck if its this) , Fuel Pump control circuit
Hunting (poor idling): ECM power source circuit or Fuel Pump Control Circuit

I Think the problem resides in either your fuel pump control circuit or you may have compression problems.. articles that can help you out with it are listed up to:

These are for the fuel pump:

ENGINE: DIAGRAM_FUEL_PUMP_LOCATION.gif
ENGINE: ARTICLE_FUEL_PRESSURE_CIRCUIT_DIAGNOSTIC.pdf
ENGINE: ARTICLE_FUEL_PUMP_INSPECTION.pdf


These are for the Compression:

ENGINE: ARTICLE_ENGINE_COMPRESSION_CHECK.pdf

Like it says in the compression diagnostic PDF: If you add oil through the spark plug hole and it still doesnt help the low compression... then a valve may be sticking.. <--- not good..

anyway these are for your info only.. let the dealer worry about all this stuff.. unless you're off warranty in which case i guess you wouldnt have much of a choice.

let me know if you need any other help,
Amjed

P.S. The articles you need are the last 4 in the ENGINE section

[DaileyDog]

Hey. The dealer I took my Celi to is doubting the authenticity of the reports you posted because they don't include VIN #s and Time estimates for the technicians. This guy is an ass and was looking for any excuse to blow me off.

My question is, are those things included with your TSBs? And, if they are, can you include them? This guy was acting like they had never heard of a TSB from Toyota about anything (I'm trying to get those interior rattles fixed).

Thanks.

Mike

[PorkchopSpecblue GT-S]

I need a write-up of the install of a clutch/flywheel. I am attempting to do this with one of my friends, just wanna know what we are getting our selves into. Its for a 2001 GT-S

[XYRCNCP]

I need to know how to replace the driver's window. I know the first step is to take the door panel out. Any one knows? or is there a diagram guide? thanks.

[GTS LAID]

DaileyDog: I posted for you what this idiot wants... now you can shove it in his face and tell him to do ALL the work or else they'd be getting a lawsuit for not honoring their warranty claims. its listed under the TSB thread rattle repair warranty info

PorkchopSpecblue GT-S: Okay I put up 3 articles dealing with the manual tranny.. removal, installation, and fixing of the clutch.. good luck man it looks tough.

XYRCNCP: I couldn't find any instructions on actually removing the windows.. only electrical stuff like voltage outputs of the relays, etc. anyway I dont think its very hard to do and is probably rather self explanatory once you open up the door. I've done it in a maxima before and it wasnt bad at all. good luck with it. (why are you doing it anyway)

[Pribilof]

Is there an article for replacing bulbs in foglamps and aiming them?

[Lilsupra]

PCV valve change, coolant flush, Spark Plug Torque setting...thanks

[GTS LAID]

ok lilsupra check in the engine section i put it all there

[GTS LAID]

pribilof the fog light stuff is under the exterior section

[Lilsupra]

Fuel Filter replacement...clutch fluid replacement...I really appreciate your taking time to scan those pics..saves so much time and money...comes to show good people exist

[GTS LAID]

ok the fuel filter replacement is part of the fuel pump replacement... if you look in the pictures you'll see where the filter is...

i'll try to find the clutch fluid one.

[GTS LAID]

ok i looked for the clutch fluid or transaxle fluid replacement instructions but couldnt find anything... either i'm not looking in the right place or its just really standard across all cars (like brake bleeding)... i had trouble finding info on that too... might wanna search the net...

let me know if you need anything else.

[inline4]

Ok, I just did a compression check on all 4 of my cylinders.. all were about 170 psi. The thing is, that I didn't open the throttle plate all the way.. should I do that? And also how many times am I suppose to crank the engine? I held the key in for about 3 "chi chi chi's" ... should it only be one "chi"?

[GTS LAID]

i think it should only be one chi... but if you're getting the numbers then you're fine and you have nada to worry about.

[inline4]

Hey GTS LAID.. I need the PDF for Front Lower Control Arm in "Suspension".. but all the links do not work on it.

[GTS LAID]

i dont know whats wrong with it exactly but if you click on the link you can fix it yourself... the actual file is there you just have to fix the link.. for some reason its just not letting me post it.

[voidhawk]

I just had my car at WCT for a noise problem today (David Draper hooked me up with Steve K - thanks David). The symptom is a "shhhht" kind of noise when letting out the clutch while down-shifting in 3rd or 2nd (2nd is more noticeable).

Steve said that all GT-S' make that noise after a certain milage ("it's just the gears meshing"), and that although he has investigated it before he was never able to find anything wrong with the car, and I shouldn't worry about it.

I was wondering if there are any TSBs out on something like this, or anybody else had this problem? My car is a '01 GT-S 6sp.

Thx.

[GTS LAID]

no there are no TSBs on the synchros... so if he checked it out and was told that its nothing serious, then guess what.... its probably nothing serious... if it becomes a big problem its gonna be their problem.

[voidhawk]

ok - thx for checking :)

[JS7773]

My 2nd gear synchro fried the other day and the service advisor told me there was a tsb out that dictated that a new gear be installed as well as the synchro along with "a bunch of other parts"

Any idea? I've looked through and haven't seen anything like that.

Thanks.

[GTS LAID]

not that i know of man... check out the TSB thread.. you'll see the only one related is the 6MT difficulty selecting gears thread.

[inline4]

Is our clutch inside the transmission case? or outside of it?

[inline4]

cause something I don't get is... why we smell clutch when we burn it bad.

[GTS LAID]

i'm not sure inline my guess is that its outside.. which accounts for why:

1) we can easily smell it
2) its so easy to replace *compared to opening up anything for synchros or LSD installs*

[inline4]

Yeah I put my car on two ramps and crawled underneath to see how easily I can install a clutch myself.. but no signs of anything resembling a clutch.

[GTS LAID]

here you go.. from the authoritative source himself...

IHDIHD: larry quick question b4 you start work...
IHDIHD: is the clutch inside the tranny case?
IHDIHD: in the celica?
co00lguy: yes
IHDIHD: so you have to open all that **** up to replace the clutch?
co00lguy: you have to take the tranny down
co00lguy: and the clutch and flywheel are right there
co00lguy: you dont have to take the tranny apart
IHDIHD: ok thats what i thought.. once you pull it you can see the clutch and flywheel
co00lguy: yyup

special thanks to LD of course

[inline4]

Cool... so it's very doable with a lot of time......
Thanks...
One more question before I head to do more of my final exam essays(college sux)...
Do Celica's need valve adjustments every 30K or so?

[GTS LAID]

nope... every 60K for valve clearance checks...

[GTS LAID]

check out the maintenance thread in this forum... then go to severe schedule and the 60K service...

[Griffin]

Originally posted by JS7773
My 2nd gear synchro fried the other day and the service advisor told me there was a tsb out that dictated that a new gear be installed as well as the synchro along with "a bunch of other parts"

Any idea? I've looked through and haven't seen anything like that.

Thanks.

No such TSB exists. Assuming you drive like most of us and try to stay on lift between 1st and second thats why your 2nd gear syncro is probably fried, that or if you blow a lot of shifts / clutchless shift.

Also FYI - those shift feel midification parts make a big difference - go to your dealer and test drive a 2002 before you agree to it... those parts were intended ONLY for the purpose of assisting people who have misshifted and can't get teh hang of the tranny - a lot of people (myself included) - prefer the old shift patter.

Griffin

[Griffin]

Originally posted by inline4
Ok, I just did a compression check on all 4 of my cylinders.. all were about 170 psi. The thing is, that I didn't open the throttle plate all the way.. should I do that? And also how many times am I suppose to crank the engine? I held the key in for about 3 "chi chi chi's" ... should it only be one "chi"?

NUmber one - make sure and disconect all yer ignition before checking - it also doesnt hurt to unplug the injectors

Number 2 - you want to turn it over at least 3 or 4 revolutions

Griffin

[JS7773]

Griffin>

I do that sometimes, but I beleive the real reason is that I had an 'issue' toyota not putting my car back together correctly. They installed a new clutch in my car (warranty work...they said it was needed and was covered under warranty) and when I got the car back it didn't shift quite right. I was planning on taking it back and asking what was up when the synchro completely fried. I'll try to get the name of the TSB when I call back. They have now had my car for over a week (dropped it off last Friday) and apparently still haven't gotten the parts in.

[Griffin]

That sucks :( Did you make sure they have a different tech working on it than the one that screwed it up last time?

Griffin

[JS7773]

yup, new tech...new service manager (I think I might have gotten the last one fired...I hope not, it took a couple trips to the dealer to get my car fixed, but the man did the best HE could...I don't think it is fair to hold the service managers responsible for the actions of the techs...)

I'm supposed to have my car back tomorrow...we'll see...

[inline4]

Do we really need to change the transmission fluid in manual tranny cars every 10,000 miles? I haven't changed it since I got my car... mileage is now 47,000 miles.

[Griffin]

I thought the recommended interval was 15K - either way its easy to change and a helluva lot cheaper than - say - a new tranny. Even though it is super thick and horribly stinky its addatives will break down eventually just like the ones in regular oil.

Griffin

[wickedpete]

The tint or some coating is pealing off the outside of the sunroof. Will the dealer have to replace and will it happen again after being fixed? Can supply pic.

Thanks

[Griffin]

Assuming it has not been modified from stock then yeah - thats covered under the 3/36

Griffin

[voidhawk]

WTF?? I noticed today that my tranny squeaks when I put it in reverse - anybody else had that problem?

[GTS LAID]

what part squeeks.. is it the shifter or the tranny itself.. does it do it when you're moving or at idle?

[voidhawk]

at idle, not moving, and shifting from neutral or first into reverse. Sounds like it comes from the driver side engine bay. Maybe the shift link?

[Griffin]

Aye - cable, shift link, somethign like that.

Griffin

[voidhawk]

it was the shift link - greased it and all is well again :)

[Nasty N8]

Well it seems that there are a number of us on the board that are experiencing a rattle coming from the glove box area. I was told that there is a TSB out for this but I can't seem to find it. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
Nate

[GTS LAID]

i'll look around and check for it nate...

[Nasty N8]

Originally posted by GTS LAID
i'll look around and check for it nate...

Preciate it. ;)

Nate

[2002GT_Celica]

I have a 2002 GT with ~5k miles on it, which means it is almost time for the 5k maintenance thing. I noticed a squeaking noise coming from my engine bay that sounded like a loose belt. I suspect it is the belt tensioner after doing a little research on these forums using the search function. Nevertheless, I wanted to know if I could get the problem fixed under warranty, and what information I would have to present to them to get the problem fixed. Does the TSB for the belt tensioner apply to my car even though the TSB only speaks of the 00 and 01 models? Any help would be appreciated GTS LAID. Thanks.

[WAR]

I lloked though the suspension thread and it wasn't there so I'm going to request it.

I need the pages that tell how to take the Rack and Pinion tie rod off. This is the rod that runs from the rack and pinion to the wheel and is used to adjust toe in and toe out.

Thanks,

[Griffin]

1- remove nut that attaches tie rod to steering knuckle

2 - break lock nut at the rack end of tie rod loose

3 - pop tie rod out of steering knucle with a pickle fork or whatever

4 - unscrew tie rod - count the number of turns till it falls off.

Theres the down and dirty version. Dunno what the manual says but thats a generic tie rod removal instruction :)

Griffin

[GTS LAID]

i dont think it says

"count the number of turns" in the manual... it probably says somthing to the effect of:

turn 16.3 revolutions clockwise to a clearance of 0.00005 mm...

lol

[WAR]

I'm having problems understanding what you mean so here are some pics to help clarify.

I have the tie rod removed from the nuckle joint that is attached to the wheel, now I need to remove the tie rod from the rack and pinion. Here are pics.

http://www.5di.ca/tierod1.jpg
http://www.5di.ca/tierod2.jpg

Thanks,

[Griffin]

Ahh I was thinking you just meant tie rod end. The tie rod itself should unscrew I believe, those 2 big flats back at the rack end of the mall joint are there for wrenching on. Haven't taken one of these racks apart so I'd have to check the manual to be 100% sure.

Griffin

[WAR]

if you can check the manual it would be greatly appreciated (I had one but can't find it now). There is a steel "disk" dehind the peace holding the ball on and it is bent around where the flat spots are. I'm not sure if I should try and bend it back or not.

Thanks for the help,

[Griffin]

Manual says to use a chisel to unstake the washer that is bent over and then to remove the tie rod end by putting one wrench on the shaft from the rach and one on the2 flats on the tie rod end and then unscrew.

Just out of curiosity why do you have to take off teh whole tie rod? Hy not just take off teh tie rod end?

Griffin

[WAR]

I was at an autoX race and I smoked a curb and bent the tie rod. So I have to put a new one in. As one or my fellow racers said "go big or go home", and "happiness isn't around the corner, happiness IS the corner".

Thanks for the info, hopefully I'll find my manual soon.

[Lilsupra]

02 sensor replacement..BTW whuts the part number??

[Griffin]

Originally posted by Lilsupra
02 sensor replacement..BTW whuts the part number??

Need more info:

What year:
What Model (GT GTS):
Which sensor: (Primary or secondary):

Griffin

[GTS LAID]

heres what i have from the 2000 GTS:

http://www.radphys.com/ARTICLE_ENGINE_O2_DIAGS.pdf

[iDRIVE]

Can anyone give me the diagram for the steering wheel assembly(automatic with sportshift)?
I want the breakdown of the parts, I want to see all the parts that connects to the steering wheel(i.e. airbag, headlight switch etc), especially the part where all the wiring/wires coming from the steering wheel(i.e. horn, up/down gear select) connects too.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[GTS LAID]

here you go:

http://www.radphys.com/ARTICLE_STEERING_STEERING_COLUMN_REMOVAL.pdf

[baNanA_ryCe]

how do i remove the third brake light...thanks a head of time!

[krazyone]

Can a Cold air intake in ANY way damage the internals of the engine?

[gutus]

First off...this section is a great idea! Not sure if anyone can help with this though. Can someone tell me what size adapters/t fitting I need to install an autometer electrical oil pressure meter so I can tap it into the stock oil sensor above the oil filter. And the right size adapter to install an autometer electrical water temp sensor so that I can tap it into the coolant drain plug on the side of the engine block near the exhaust mainfold. I have a 2000 gts 6 speed.

Thanks

[snake005]

how do I repair my lift if it is mechanical....all the electrical components checked out.......heard grinding b4 lift gave up for the last time....it's gotta be in the head, right?
need help? noone answered my last post.....does anyone care??
helllooo...help? I'm an owner of my car since it came out....did mods and everything myself...just not wanting to mess up the head or the cams .....just need a little guidance....there are no books or manuals that I can find for the breakdown of the lift...
2000 gts manual.....
engine runs to 8K like a champ but slower cuz no lift, hence lacking the HP's needed to whoop up on some ricers...
email me something guys that are familiar w/ my problem....
snake005@hotmail.com

[Lilsupra]

Piston, rod , and headgasket specs please...this is for the people who want to go custom route

[GTS LAID]

just added cylinder head disassembly, inspection, and reassembly... its got all the specs you want lil supra... you can get it in the engine system info section

[yoshi8me]

info on cam timing mark would be great

[ProToolsKid]

Hey I need info on removing the Steering wheel and replacing it W/ new one... Got the Red JDM one.

[GTS LAID]

sorry guys i havent been home in 3 days and i'm checking the site from school right now... as soon as i get home i'll post the articles you need. promise

[ProToolsKid]

Any info on the steering wheel?

[yoshi8me]

request info on vvtli... thx =D

[GTS LAID]

Originally posted by krazyone
Can a Cold air intake in ANY way damage the internals of the engine?

very much so yes... you'd have to completely submerge the intake pipe, but once it does get submerged its all over.

[GTS LAID]

Originally posted by gutus
First off...this section is a great idea! Not sure if anyone can help with this though. Can someone tell me what size adapters/t fitting I need to install an autometer electrical oil pressure meter so I can tap it into the stock oil sensor above the oil filter. And the right size adapter to install an autometer electrical water temp sensor so that I can tap it into the coolant drain plug on the side of the engine block near the exhaust mainfold. I have a 2000 gts 6 speed.

Thanks

here you go... instructions thanks to raymund

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23735&highlight=autometer+oil+pressure

[GTS LAID]

Originally posted by ProToolsKid
Hey I need info on removing the Steering wheel and replacing it W/ new one... Got the Red JDM one.

http://www.radphys.com/ARTICLE_STEERING_STEERING_COLUMN_REMOVAL.pdf

[GTS LAID]

Originally posted by yoshi8me
request info on vvtli... thx =D

you asked for it:

Very interesting technical details on the GTS (2ZZ-GE)
Toyota's all-new Celica engine has state-of-the-art production-engine features.
The Yamaha-built 1.8 litre engine has 40 percent more power than the 2.2 litre engine it supersedes in the previous Celica.
It has the highest specific power output of any naturally aspirated engine in the Toyota range.
The 1796cm3 Celica engine delivers 140kW of power at 7600rpm and 180Nm of torque at 6800rpm.
The intelligent Toyota system (VVTL-i) offers infinitely variable inlet timing across the revolution range and provides high-lift for both camshafts when engine revolutions exceed 6000rpm.
Toyota has adopted leading-edge engine technology throughout the new Celica engine, for maximum fuel efficiency, low emissions, light weight, low NVH and high performance.
Features of the Celica 2ZZ-GE engine include:
* a compact, externally ribbed all-alloy cylinder block with metal matrix composite (MMC) material cylinder walls to achieve linerless construction. The alloy block delivers maximum thermal efficiency and minimum weight.
* passage holes in the crankshaft bearing area of the block, to reduce pumping losses within the engine and hence boost performance
* a water-pump swirl chamber and the inlet passage to the pump integrated into the block, to save weight, space and complexity
* a full ladder-type crankshaft bearing cap, to maximise rigidity and reliability, and reduce noise. The full-ladder bearing cap also improves the coupling to the transaxle.
* a bearing cap with chill-fitted cast-iron inserts around the journal portions, to resist heat deformation.
* the oil-filter bracket, air conditioner compressor bracket and rear oil-seal retainer are integrated into the bearing cap to reduce the number of parts
* serpentine belt drive to the auxiliary equipment, to reduce engine length, number of parts and weight
* a fully balanced crankshaft and thin, lightweight, high-strength connecting rods to reduce reciprocating weight and friction
* a square bore and stroke relationship to boost torque (82.0mm x 85.0mm)
* flat-topped pistons with valve clearance cut-outs to achieve an 11.5:1 compression ratio. The pistons are iron and tin-coated to reduce friction.


Cylinder Head Design:

Toyota Celica has an all-alloy Twin Cam Multi-valve cylinder head.
The valve seats are made by welding high-resistance material into the port, then machining a valve seat into the material.
The resulting valve seat can be made thinner than a conventional shrink-fit valve seat, for improved air flow and better cooling around the valve area.
The camshaft drive is by 8mm pitch roller chain, with a lubricating oil jet and auto tensioner.
The Celica engine has long straight intake ports, to further boost engine breathing.
It has narrow valve stems, to reduce intake resistance and valve-train mass.
The fuel injection nozzles are located in the inlet ports, to prevent wall wetting and fuel adhesion to the walls of the port, thereby reducing hydrocarbon emissions.
Celica's compression ratio has been set at 11.5:1, for optimum combustion efficiency and power output across the revolution range.
The combustion chambers have a tapered squish design, to improve thermal efficiency and reduce the chance of engine knock (pre-ignition).
The squish angle has been shaped obliquely along the wall surface of the combustion chamber, to improve airflow, promote swirl and speed flame travel.
Further features of the Celica engine's top end are:
* an aluminium intake manifold with a die-cast aluminium air chamber and a resonator to optimise mid-range torque. The intake duct has a variable valve, which is closed at low engine revolutions to reduce noise.
* sequential electronic fuel injection with four-hole injector nozzles mounted in the inlet ports, for maximum fuel atomisation and reduced wall wetting
* an L-type hot-wire air flow meter for the EFI, for more accurate air-flow measurement and hence more accurate fuel/air mixing
* a four-into-two-into-one extractor-type exhaust system (using a metal separator plate in the exhaust union), to boost torque
* double-walled front exhaust pipe, for maximum performance and durability, and lower emissions
* rearward-facing exhaust, which combines with the double-walled front pipe to improve catalytic converter performance and hence reduce emissions. The catalytic converter has thinner walls to further improve heat-up rate.
* a cross-flow type aluminium radiator for improved cooling, increased recyclability and reduced weight.
Service weight of the Celica engine has been reduced by nearly 25 percent compared with previous engine.
Additional fuel and emission saving technology includes computer engine management, individual Toyota Direct Ignition for each of the four cylinders and electronic spark advance with a knock control system.
Further serviceability improvements include Multiplex engine diagnostics (which can detect a malfunction and memorise the failed section).
Toyota Celica also has a fuel cut-out device, which activates if the airbag SRS is deployed.



VVTi and Variable Lift:

Toyota Celica's state-of-the-art 1.8 litre 2ZZ-GE engine has intelligent variable valve timing and intelligent variable lift (VVTL-i).
The variable valve timing and variable lift technology gives Celica a combination of driveability, fuel efficiency, low emissions and high performance.
Toyota's intelligent infinitely variable valve timing system is more advanced than the binary systems in some German luxury vehicles and Japanese small cars.
VVTi is a flow-down from the Lexus luxury car program and the Prius hybrid vehicle.
Celica has the latest-generation TMC-developed vane-type VVTi control, which is used on Prius, Lexus IS200 and Echo.
Intelligent variable valve timing will go into widespread use on Toyota vehicles.
VVTi provides continual variations of the intake valve timing, to provide ideal valve timing (and hence ideal engine characteristics) for the full range of driving conditions.
High Lift, Long Duration: Toyota's variable valve lift system operates on the inlet and exhaust valves. The Toyota 2ZZ-GE engine switches to the high-lift camshaft settings at 6000rpm. The high-lift cam lobes increase intake lift by 54 percent to 11.2 mm and exhaust lift by 38 percent to 10.0mm.
The high-lift cam profiles have the effect of increasing valve-opening duration, and therefore the range of inlet timing variation.
Valve overlap can vary between 4 degrees (full-retard inlet setting and low-speed lift settings) and 94 degrees (full advance inlet and high- speed lift settings).
A valve overlap of 94 degrees would normally be associated with full race engines.
For comparison, superseded Celica's 5S-FE engine had six degrees of valve overlap and the sports two-litre 3S-GE engine in the first front-drive Celica model had 14 degrees of overlap.
Inlet camshaft timing is varied according to engine revolutions, throttle position, inlet camshaft angle, engine coolant temperature and intake air volume.
Variable Timing Activation:
Toyota Celica's VVTi is a computer controlled and oil-pressure activated push-push type system, using the engine oil.
The engine ECU can command the system to advance or retard the inlet camshaft timing, thereby providing for faster response.
The hardware is a camshaft timing oil control valve (mounted adjacent to the inlet camshaft gear wheel) and a VVTi controller mechanism built onto the inlet camshaft timing gear.
The camshaft timing oil control valve is a spool valve, controlled via a coil and plunger by the engine ECU.
It can signal advance, hold or retard.
The VVTi controller consists of a housing on the front of the timing wheel, driven from the timing chain, and a four-bladed vane coupled with the intake camshaft.
When the engine ECU requires a change in inlet timing, it signals the oil control valve to provide oil pressure to either the advance or retard side of the four vane chambers.
Inlet cam timing is set to the maximum retard position for engine start-up, operation at low engine temperature, idle and engine shut-down.
A locking pin in the controller locks the camshaft timing in the maximum retard position for engine start-up and immediately after start-up (until oil pressure is established) to prevent any knocking noise.
Celica's VVTi system can vary inlet camshaft timing over a range of 43 degrees relative to crankshaft angle.
However, the variable lift system has the effect of increasing valve opening duration, so the full range of inlet timing variation is 68 degrees.
(Taken from the maximum retard intake valve opening in the low-medium engine speed range at minus 10 degrees BTDC to the maximum advance intake valve opening in high engine speed range at 58 degrees BTDC.)


Variable Lift Activation:

Toyota's intelligent variable valve lift system uses a cam change-over mechanism to increase the lift of the intake and exhaust valves when engine revolutions exceed 6000rpm.
The hydraulically activated variable-lift mechanism is electronically controlled by the engine ECU and shares some of its hydraulic control hardware with the VVTi system.
It has the same system inputs as the VVTi system - crankshaft angle and revolutions, air flow, throttle position, inlet camshaft angle and engine coolant temperature.
The variable-lift system will not operate until coolant temperature reaches 60 degrees.
The mechanism includes camshafts with two sets of cam profiles, for low-to-medium engine speed and high engine speed (high lift).
The full system includes eight rocker arms (one for each pair of valves), two rocker shafts (located inboard of the camshafts) and a spool-type oil control valve on the aft end of the inlet camshaft.
The rocker arms are the heart of system.
They have an integrated needle roller cam follower, a rocker arm pad and hydraulic rocker arm pin.
In normal operation, the low-to-medium speed cam acts on the needle-roller cam follower and the rocker arm operates its pair of valves.
Meantime, the rocker arm pad rides against the high-lift cam lobes, but moves freely within the rocker arm.
In this state, the rocker pad does not contribute to rocker arm movement and therefore makes no contribution to valve activation.
When the engine is operating in the low-to-medium speed ranges, the oil control valve is open to the drain side.
However, when engine revolutions exceed 6000rpm, the oil control valve closes the drain side and hydraulic pressure flows through the rocker shafts to the hydraulic rocker arm pin.
The hydraulic pressure pushes the rocker arm pin out to lock the bottom of the rocker arm pad.
With the rocker pad locked in its full extended position, the high-lift (high-speed) cam lobes now operate the rocker arm and hence its pair of valves.
When engine revolutions drop below 6000rpm, the oil control valve opens on the drain side, to relieve pressure on the cam changeover mechanism and allow the system to return to normal lift conditions.
Celica's 2ZZ-GE engine has shim-type valve clearance adjusters and narrow valve stems to optimise gas flow.



Suspension:

Toyota Celica has all-new rear suspension and improved front suspension.
The new suspension improves straight-line stability, turn-in, steering feel, ride comfort and NVH.
The new Celica has double wishbone rear suspension, compared with MacPherson (or Chapman) struts on the superseded model.
The combination of Celica's stiffer body platform, reduced weight, shorter overhangs and new suspension provides significantly improved handling.
Celica's double-wishbone rear suspension accurately controls wheel movement through the full suspension stroke, ensuring maximum tyre contact with the road.
The rear suspension geometry includes a toe-correcting function, to optimise turning stability and straight-line stability under brakes.
The rear springs are mounted below the dampers, increasing suspension rigidity and allowing for a low floor height in the vehicle.
The rear stabiliser bar is ball-joint mounted to reduce uncontrolled body roll.
Special rubber rear bushings have been adopted, to optimise drivability and stability.
Improved Front Suspension:
Celica's front suspension is an improved MacPherson-strut system.
Suspension travel has been increased and suspension stiction (sticking friction) has been decreased

[Lilsupra]

Need info on Drive Belt Replacement...Belt Tensioner one is too vauge

[futureceli]

my front end just got smashed in and my injen intake was exposed....it rained for a couple of days, but i totally forgot about it. i went to start my car up to move it and i throw it into first gear gave it gas and the car died....i didnt know what was wrong. i started it back up and gave it gas...it started and i moved it....i got out to see what was wrong and i could hear water gurgling in the intake....i know water got into my engine.

1) how much water is actually needed before it damages my engine or am i already screwed?

because i started my car again and nothing seem to be wrong with it. probably because the intake sucked in all the water already...

2) if there is no significant sign of damage right away, what could be the long term affects?

[GTS LAID]

1) you're unlucky here... even a little bit of water (50ml) will cause irreversible damage.. with that said...

2) it isnt likely that you sucked up that much water into your engine B/C its still running. I suggest that you disassemble the piping and reinstall it just to make sure that the water was coming from the intake before you drive it anywhere. Also find an auto store and buy a compression gauge ($20) and test your compression in all cylinders. There's an article on compression testing in the engine section!

[futureceli]

ok with this said, how is this fixable or will my engine have to be replaced?

[GTS LAID]

too early to tell... if the compression shows something messed up then we'll have to take it from there. But a good sign is that the CEL is not coming on... which means normal sensors arent picking up abnormal cylinder pressures associated with water in the combustion cambers.

[futureceli]

thanks for your knowledge on this subject....my car is currently being fixed at a bodyshop right now and i'm just gonna go ahead and tell them to send it over to service to check compression and whatnot after my car is restored......

i'll be sure to ask you more if they give me a hard time about the water issue:cool:

[iDRIVE]

Can you give me the pin outs for the spiral cable(steering wheel?

Im trying to make a pushbutton starter using one of the auto-sportshift buttons.

Thanks.

[GTS LAID]

it should already be in the electrical section under the full car's wiring diagram...

might wanna be careful with the pushbutton starter on the steering wheel.. if you hook it up to a relay and you dont include a safety mechanism you could seriously mess up the starter if you crank it while the car's already oN!

[iDRIVE]

I checked the electrical but it wasnt there. It didnt even have the sportshift diagram.

Im thinking of tapping a relay on the rpm, so when the car starts that relay clicks off the pushbutton. If that doesnt work ill think of something else

Btw is it ok if i bypass the clutch switch?

Thanks

[GTS LAID]

i have the clutch bypass on my car but the starter works from the outside and the only way to engage it is to first put the car in neutral, parking brake, key sequence, take out the key (stays running) then when you get out you lock the door and the car turns off by itself. that way you make sure that if it wasnt on when you got out then it wont be on when you get in.

[futureceli]

Q: what is a tie rod? it helps turn the wheels right? ok if broke, how much damage can be done? and what could be the reasons for any damage to the tie rod?

A:

[spaldam]

Got any information on the Light sensor that runs the DayTime Running lights? I want the nitty gritty on how it works.

[mirconrice]

hey GTS LAID, can you scan in the electrical system of the celica...I am going to be installing an alarm system soon and I kinda need to know what wires goes to what...if you can, i would really appreciate it. Thanks.

[tripnotic]

GTS LAID,

Do you have a DIAGRAM: Generic ECU Troublecodes List for P0477? I'm trying to figure what is the cause of my problem. The P0477 is an "Exhaust Control Valve Pressure Low" and I don't know what causes it. All the hoses seem to be tighten up. Anyways, if you this diagram of this code, it would greatly helpful to me.

Thank you,

Don

[voidhawk]

I need to program a new remote for the VIP system on the celica. I have the remote (ebay $12 instead of $140 from the dealership), but need the programming instructions.

One of the TSBs on nc.org talks about them being available in a supplement to the customer VIP manual with P/N 00107-00282-04. Does anybody here have access to this information?

My dealership wants $40 for programming the remote, which is a rip-off considering it will probably take less than 5 min and involve a sequence of pressing the remote buttons and closing/opening door locks.

Can somebody help me out? Thx.

[warden]

The clutch went and was replaced for alot of money.. Im thinking of going after my dealer if i have enough evidence to try and get some of that back.. I know anyone can say ' i never missed a shift' as the case is, but I also drove a 88 awd turbo celica for 5years and to this say it still has the origional clutch, also my 91 tercel which i drove for 3-4years, most of it in rush-hour still has a good clutch.. But my 2001 celica, clutch gone in 60k( i think thats around 40m)..

So has anyone had a similar prob and tried fighting the dealer for a clutch? or heard/seen any threads with this kinda info? any leads would be much appreciated and I'll keep everyone up on my progress..

[slidr]

I need information on how to repair the AC toggle switch. Yes, I'm sure it's the switch and I don't want to replace it, just repair it.

Thanks.

[Lilsupra]

Hey man i need some diagnostic procedures for the following:
02 sensor diagnostic and Evaporative Emission Control System diagonostic!! These both have to do with the CEL codes 136 and 440. Thanks

[dfera]

IS there anything out there for replacing the shifter cables for a 00 GT-S?

Thanks