my first oil change

[Thing-A-Majig]

hey guys,
tomorrow i plan on changing my oil myself, and i was wondering is there a specificy type or size oil filter i have to get, and if you can recommend any type of oil? also is the oil plug nice and easy to find, and could you descrube the location of it? its my first time changing oil but it seems easy enough :D

thanks

[pitcrew]

I'm only partly qualified to answer this, becuse I've changed oil on a lot of cars, just not a Celica, but I'm about to do exactly that on my wife's GT this morning.
You will need a set of run up ramps (long ones to clear front valance, rhino ramps or extra 3' lengths of 2x6 to extend the metal ones) or a jack and at least one jackstand. NEVER EVER crawl under a car that is held up by a jack alone! Also a wrench that fits the drain plug, a flat pan that holds >~6 qts (easier to get it out from under the car if it's less than 1/2 full.) a filter wrench, a funnel (one of the rectangular shaped ones from Walmart works very well) Paper towels (roll) and/or rags. You will also need a new oil filter- buy a quality filter but not one of the super dooper overpriced ones, I paid ~ 4.95 for a Fram at Walmart, and 4qts of oil; I recommend Mobil 1 synthetic 15W 50 (red cap).
Run the car until the engine reaches operating temperature, better to run around the block a few times than to just idle it.
run the car up onto the ramps or jack up the front high enough to be able to crawl under it and put a jackstand under the sill next to the jacking point. A 6" length of 2x4 set on top the stand against the sill flange will protect the flange. Lower the jack enough that the car is supported by the jack stand. putting a jack stand under both sides will make the job easier. Set the emergency brake and block the rear tires with a piece of 2x4 or a brick pushed tightly under the rear of the tire, blocking both sides gives an extra margin of safety. If it's on jackstands, shake the car firmly to make sure it's stable before crawling under it.
From what I'm reading, you need to remove the plastic splash shield under the engine to reach the drain. It is supposed to be held in by a couple/three screws and some clips. (I can be more specific in a few hrs.) place the drain pan under the plug and slowly unscrew the plug, holding the plug with your hand ABOVE the plug, the oil will be hot when it comes out! If you push the plug lightly towards the pan as you unscrew it until it is completely loose, then pull it away in one quick motion, you'll stay the cleanest. if you drop the plug into the pan, don't worry you can fish it out later. Check the plug to see if it has a washer gasket on it, and don't lose it if it has one. allow the oil to drain until its just a slow drip.
Meanwhile, locate the filter and decide your path of removal. (again, more specific info after I do this) by now, the oil should have finished draining, wipe the plug and the pan surrounding the drain hole with a clean rag and replace the plug, tightening it firmly, but not so hard as to strip the aluminum threads. Now move the pan under the filter, and use the wrench to loosen the filter by turning it counter-clockwise. Once it is loose, unscrew it by hand, remembering that it is full of oil which will dump out, especially it you tip it down to remove it. turn it open end down in the drain pan. Now you can remove the pan from under the car, but keep it close by for a moment. Wipe the flat machined area around the filter attachment pipe on the block and any spills from the filter clean with the rags or paper towels. Remove the new filter from the package, and compare it to the old. The length may be different, but the diameter of the rubber gaskets should be the same. NOW THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: dip your finger in the oil in the drain pan, and run it lightly around the rubber gasket on the new filter, leaving it with a coat of oil before installing it. wipe any oily places off the outside and off your hands, then screw the new filter onto the pipe until the gasket contacts the block, then HAND TIGHTEN tightly. If you must use the wrench, tighten NO MORE THAN 1/4 TURN after the gasket contacts the block. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, you will tear the gasket loose and cause the filter to leak!!!!!
Remove the fill plug from the valve cover, place the funnel into the hole, and fill the engine with 4 qts of oil. TIP: placing your thumb over the opening in the oil bottle until you have it inverted in the funnel will help prevent spilling it all over the engine.
Clean up any drips or spills and reinstall the fill cap.
Now start the engine (out of gear of course!) and look underneath for a minute or two to make sure nothing is leaking. If everything is OK, shut off the engine and reinstall the splash pan. Return the car to the ground, and check the dipstick level, for full or very slightly over. (I believe it calls for just less than 4 qts, but overfilling by <1/2 qt will not harm anything. I hate storing a bottle with just a little oil in it. If you are super anal, put in 3 1/2 qts initially, then top it off after running the engine and allowing the oil to all drain back into the pan for a minute or two after shutting it off. Place any extra oil in a trigger oil can to use to lubricate hinges etc.)
Congratulations you've just had your first bonding experience with your car and saved ~ 20.00 in the process and know it's done right with the best oil available for your baby!
Now you can look forward to doing it again every 3-5K miles!

[Thing-A-Majig]

wow, thanks pitcrew. your reply was MORE than helpful, and i look foward to hearing how your oil change went :D . and could you please get back to me on how many quarts of oil you used? somepeople say they used 4.5 quarts others used less thant 4 quarts
thanks :)

[mickey513]

15w-50? Not on on the celica, the celica uses 5w-30(best fuel economy) or 10w-30.

[pitcrew]

DMAN! my first reply was eaten by the gods of cyberspace! So here we go again...
I used ramps to elevate the front of the car and worked underneath from the front. You do have to remove the plastic splash panel under the drivers side of the engine. Use a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws, and a flat bladed screwdriver than fits the slots in the side of the 6 or so plastic pins and pry the heads out ~1/4" and pull them out by hand. Set the panel aside until you've finished.
The drain plug faces rearward and requires a 14mm wrench to loosen. Drain the oil completely and replace the plug before attacking the filter. The oil pan is steel, not aluminum, so tighten securely.The filter is hanging straight down just in front of the oil pan, and very accessable. My cup type filter wrench for my Miata was too large to grip the tiny filter, so I used a very large pair of channel lock pliers to loosen it, I could have put a rag over the end of the filter and jammed the cup wrench onto it as well. Oil will pour out as soon as the filter starts to loosen, so be prepared to catch it while you unscrew the filter. (DON'T ASK! LOL) Oil the O ring gasket on the new filter, and tighten per directions on the filter, 3/4 turn after first gasket contact, in the case of the Fram I used, or as tight as you can turn it by hand. Add the new oil. The owners manual for the 02 GT calls for 3.9 qts with filter, so I just used 4 qts. The GTS engine calls for a different amount, so consult your owners manual, yah that book in the glove compartment that nobody reads... (table at the back) for the correct amount. be sure you're reading quarts, NOT liters!
run the engine for a few minutes to check for leaks. If everything looks good, replace the splash panel. The plastic pins simply slide into the holes and then push in the center head with your thumb to secure.
Shouldn't take more than 1/2 hr to complete. Congratulations, you just earned 40.00 an hr.!

[pitcrew]

Originally posted by mickey513
15w-50? Not on on the celica, the celica uses 5w-30(best fuel economy) or 10w-30.

That is correct for the street. We live in the hot South, and my wife and I autocross our cars almost every weekend year round, so I go for the extra protection of the 15W 50 Mobil1.
your milage may vary... :)

[speedycelica]

Once again, if you want the protect of synthetic then you should go with 5w-30 or 10w-30 mobil 1 synthetic, not 15w-50. 10w-30 synthetic will provide more then enough protection in all tempature, even for autox.

[VZV21]

wait til your second oil change to put synthetic.

Other tips....fill up the oil filter with oil before install.

Engine flushing:
1 qt of either Kerosene or Diesel into the crankcase, run engine for 5 minutes, then drain. Age old method

[t2000gts]

anyone know where i can buy cheap jackstands? every time it's time to change the oil, i wanna do it myself, but it turns out buying all that junk you need to get the car up costs way more than just having some guy at a gas station doing it while i watch (but i buy the oil).

[vvtlikick]

Originally posted by t2000gts
anyone know where i can buy cheap jackstands? every time it's time to change the oil, i wanna do it myself, but it turns out buying all that junk you need to get the car up costs way more than just having some guy at a gas station doing it while i watch (but i buy the oil). I don't if this helps but they were on sale at Meijer a while back ;).

[pitcrew]

Walmart, Harbor freight, Northern tool.
They are not expensive, <20.00 a pair paid for with first oil change. A set of Rhino ramps (plastic, extra long taper)~30.00 is also an excellent investment.