View Full Version : Cutting the Kaminari
evensen007
02-08-2005, 12:23 PM
I need to cut a second hole in my Kam bumper for my second exhaust pipe. Obviously this should be done before prep/paint, but I was wondering what you recommend I use to slice it out. I want to make it as clean as possible. I have a dremmel with a bunch of different bits.
Secondly, I saw some old posts about how people were attaching grill pieces to the front bumper, but it was never discussed how it was attached. What type of mesh did you grab from Home depot, and what did you use to attach/secure it.
Thanks,
Chris
EDIT: PolyUrethane kit.
vaio23
02-08-2005, 12:39 PM
I believe the real kam kits have some screws attached to the bumper to install the grills. Some people also use some epoxy to attach them.
evil eye
02-08-2005, 12:41 PM
I remember that the first Kam rear bumpers used to come with two outlet openings for a dual exhaust. People were having the second hole filled in, but I'm not sure if the bumpers were only fiberglass at that time. But either way, I'm not really helping ya out. :D I think a dremel would do the job fine, but I am unsure as to what bit you would need.
evensen007
02-08-2005, 12:53 PM
Originally posted by vaio23
I believe the real kam kits have some screws attached to the bumper to install the grills. Some people also use some epoxy to attach them.
Epoxy! Perfect, I didnt even think of that...
What about the type of mesh? I was thinking about coating it with something so that it doesn't rust.
evensen007
02-08-2005, 12:54 PM
Joe,
Quit post Whoring!!!
:chuckles:
IScrewedUp
02-08-2005, 02:33 PM
I heard dual exhaust actually makes you lose horse power.
evensen007
02-08-2005, 03:32 PM
Originally posted by IScrewedUp
I heard dual exhaust actually makes you lose horse power.
It can.. But it doesn't always. S2000's have an inline 4 and have stock dual exhaust. My ass-dyno tells me I gained power after having mine installed. Went 2.5" piping all the way down to a flowpro muffler (camaro) split into 2.5 outlets. I didn't lose power, I can tell you that. I felt a slight gain. Never had a dyno though.
Chris
silv3r0ne
02-08-2005, 03:43 PM
Originally posted by evensen007
Joe,
Quit post Whoring!!!
:chuckles:
leave some for the rest of us...:chuckles:
as for using a dremel to cut a hole for the tip, it can be done but im not sure it would look all that good, reason being is that you wont have any rolled edges where the cut is...kinda hard to explain. i think it can be done but if i were to do it for my car, id cut the hole, then lay some fiberglass (even a little bondo works) and just smooth out the edges of the cut so that they look better.
AZNVIPER37
02-08-2005, 03:55 PM
Someone in the parts section is selling a replica Kam bumper with two holes laready there.
dmaxd03
02-08-2005, 04:25 PM
Heres what I have done cutting plastics and the such with a dremel. The fast rotation will melt anything plasticish, so cut about 3mm or so outside of where you want the final cut. t wont be super pretty but then use a razor blade or one of those razor knifes on the end f the handle (forgot the name) the ones you get at a craft shop. That will clean up the melted areas and you should be able to make it look nice.
liquidg
02-08-2005, 04:33 PM
the fiberglass kam kits have two cut outs and the urethane have one cut out. It doesn't come with screws to attach the mesh but I would strongly recomened drilling your own holes and attaching the mesh that way. I origonally did it with epoxy and you will find that if your bumper ever flex'z a lot the mesh will fall off. If you put it on with the screws it is also easy to repaint your mesh every now and again when it starts to rust. I'm in the process of trying to find some better mesh myself, thinking of buying kam's honeycomb mesh but the stuff is $35 a sheet, 9" x 36". It's stainless but I was told you should still paint it if you want it to stay looking nice over a period of time. (any idea's on what would be the best to paint this with)
evensen007
02-08-2005, 04:33 PM
Originally posted by AZNVIPER37
Someone in the parts section is selling a replica Kam bumper with two holes laready there.
Already bought the authentic kit. One hole...:(
Dmax, thanks for the advice, that helps alot.
Chris
liquidg
02-08-2005, 04:36 PM
Don't get the home depot mesh, doesn't look good, I tried it.
evensen007
02-08-2005, 04:40 PM
liquid,
I would recommend giving several coats of clearcoat, and I believe that should seal out any rust. What mesh did you buy and where did you get it?
Chris
liquidg
02-08-2005, 04:46 PM
first I got mesh from menards (same as home depot) then i bought some expanded steel from a steel warehouse. Painted that but haven't had luck with it not rusting. Now I am either going to go with some ebay mesh or kam's honeycomb mesh. Probably paint that black and then clear it like you said.
evensen007
02-08-2005, 06:21 PM
Yeah man,
After a few coats of clearcoat, that thing is NOT going to rust... When you say to "screw" the mesh into the bumper, I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you explain a little more? Is the mesh thick enough to get a good screw hold?
Chris
vaio23
02-08-2005, 06:29 PM
I dont know about the rear but the front bumper has screws that allows you to install the grills.
http://www.everythingcelica.com/gal3/kit_kaminariurethane/DCP_0015
liquidg
02-08-2005, 08:35 PM
All of the other holes in the bumper don't have screws. Like the rear bumper and side skirts. You need to drill holes for screws in the urethane next to the holes in the bumper. There is thick enough spots to drill of the rear, but the side skirts were a little tougher. My side skirts had fairly thin urethane near the holes in the sides so they will a little tricky.
The mesh that I used was strong enough where you can get it tight to the hole on the bumper with screws, and it seems to hold good. (the stuff from home depot (menards) I put on with epoxy cause it didn't hold well with the screws.)
yeah... id like to know how to cut the bumper because my n1 exhaust burnt the **** out of my kam rear, as stated in many other threads.... i just wanna re-shape the exhaust exit so that it fits comfortaby 1/4" - 1/2"... hmmm maybe i should post pics off the damage...
liquidg
02-08-2005, 09:48 PM
put heat tape on the bumper, just on the underside of the hole above your exhaust (in my case tanabe). I did this on my kam bumper and so far so good. (car is silver and used silver heat tape, so it looks alright)
Originally posted by liquidg
put heat tape on the bumper, just on the underside of the hole above your exhaust (in my case tanabe). I did this on my kam bumper and so far so good. (car is silver and used silver heat tape, so it looks alright)
too late brotha... haha lets put it this way, it started burning in august 04'...
liquidg
02-08-2005, 10:04 PM
that sucks
Salsceli
02-09-2005, 07:57 AM
Kuz
i got the same problem with the burning of the kit, i got a kami kit, i put this bendable sheet of metal where the exhaust burns it(only helps alittle), but then i use this product from toyota(i use to work in the detailing section) that wipes right off, it's clear, and smells like rubbing alchol, forget what's it called, hope that helps alittle
evensen007
i would do a stright up trade with you, but my paint job is about an average paint job right now, and don't got money right now for a paint job, just need one skirt and rear bumper painted, i'm planning on painting it in the summer, and either fill the hole, or put an exhaust in the second hole, but have no use, bascially for looks, i also might move the exhaust somehow to avoid the problem in the future,,,,,sal 1
evil eye
02-09-2005, 08:18 AM
Originally posted by liquidg
It's stainless but I was told you should still paint it if you want it to stay looking nice over a period of time.
If it is in fact stainless steel, it should never rust.
There... that was a useful, non-post whoring post. :D
evensen007
02-09-2005, 08:29 AM
Originally posted by evil eye
If it is in fact stainless steel, it should never rust.
There... that was a useful, non-post whoring post. :D
LO)LOLOL!!!!
liquidg
02-09-2005, 10:17 AM
Stainless does not "rust" as you think of regular steel rusting with a red oxide on the surface that flakes off. If you see red rust it is probably due to some iron particles that have contaminated the surface of the stainless steel and it is these iron particles that are rusting. So from road debri and what not the mesh will have a appearence of rust that you need to either clean off, or paint it in the first place and put a good clear on it.
evil eye
02-09-2005, 12:47 PM
Oh ok, that makes more sense. :)
robare99
02-12-2005, 09:11 AM
I bought some mesh that was almost like the TRD stock mesh from a tuner store. It was about $20.00US for 2 sheets, 18" X 2' I believe. I used automotive goop. I filled in the middle holes on my TRD bumper with it.
tunertype
02-15-2005, 11:27 AM
for the bumper hole I'd use a fine toothed hand jig saw it won't burn and you can do it slow enough so you won't make mistakes. Also do the moulding thing to make it look like the other hole with fiberglass or bondo and grease pen to mark the outline before I start cutting to get it just right.
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