Split Second wiring problems *56 warning*

[Hetts]

Okay, the problem I have is that my car is throwing a CEL, after going through diagnostics with it, it says the problem is the TPS (throttle positioning sensor). Furthermore, the car slugs at around 4-4500 rpms depending on throttle position. WOT it happens earlier then when it is at partial. I've uncliped and looked at the TPS sensor, everything looks good, and I don't remember ever hitting it. Also, when I had her on diagnostics, it said the TPS was sending a constant signal of .4V instead of increasing (I think to 5V at max). What this tells me is that the TPS isn't broke, theres just something wrong with it's signal. This is the throttle positioning sensor, right?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/TPS.jpg

or is it this?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/TPS1.jpg

I didn't do the wiring on my SS or gauges, it was the only thing I didn't do on my install, so I'm a little confused with it. Today I got around to tearing it back apart to get a look at what wires are going where. This is what I came up with.

I refered to this ecu chart

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/DIAGRAMS_ENGINE_ECM_GUIDE1.jpg

Violet----- e4 - 23 (which scares me, because I dont see that anywhere on the ECM terminals)

Green (black in my pictures) ------- e4 - 2 (VC) <-- dont know what that means though

Yellow/Black ------ e3 - 27 (tach signal, only one I understand)

Orange ----- goes to relay

Black ----- grounded to battery

Red ----- to fuse 25 (which is listed as DCC 25A on the fuse diagram I found)


Air Fuel Gauge signal ------- e4 - 12 OX1A


Alright, here are some pictures to help, if having a different picture, different angle, or anything would help, just let me know and I'll snap more.

First off, the Tach signal wire. It has me worried because its just spliced in, not cut off like the others. Is this proper?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/yellowandblack.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/yellowandblack2.jpg

Next, the violet and green wires. The green wire is black in these pictures, I think he must have needed more wire. The green wire is the one on the lower right, connected to the red wire. The guy brought the line from my air/fuel ratio and taped into the air/fuel signal where you see the big line T'ed off below the violet line. Once again, is that proper?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/violetandgreenwiring.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/VioandG2.jpg

Here shows the red wire going into the fuse. Proper? (The other black wire in there is for one of my gauges, all the gauges work fine...)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/RedintoFuse.jpg

Here is a shot of my relay. Brown on top grounds, top magenta goes to postive terminal on battery, lower brown comes from the orange wire of the SS, and the lower magenta wire comes from the FMU.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/relay.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/viewofwires.jpg

And here is a shot of where it was grounded to. Proper?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/Hettseypoo45/grounds.jpg


Like I said, if ANY more pictures are needed, just holler. Thanks a lot for looking, I know wiring isn't fun...

[Black_TRD]

Violet ---- E4 23 IS the TPS

I see your problem here they guy that did your wiring cut the cable and conected de violet wire going into the ecu so the piggyback nor the ecu are seeing the TPS signal, that wire should not have been cut but spliced into.

About the E4-2 VC I dont think anything should be connected there going to the piggyback

[mtskibum16]

Ok...I will clear up the green and purple. There are 5 wires for your MAF. You need to cut the middle one. The green wire from the SS connects to the MAF wire you cut that connects to the MAF plug and the purple one connects to the other half of the MAF wire you cut that goes to the ecu. The rest look ok.....

[Hetts]

Ah, thank you guys. So just reconnect the two wires that were cut into the ECU, and then hook the violet and green up to the MAF. Awesome, a lot less painful then I thought... mtskibum, I think I owe you my sole by now, thank you!

[Black_TRD]

Originally posted by mtskibum16
Ok...I will clear up the green and purple. There are 5 wires for your MAF. You need to cut the middle one. The green wire from the SS connects to the MAF wire you cut that connects to the MAF plug and the purple one connects to the other half of the MAF wire you cut that goes to the ecu. The rest look ok.....

Thats correct looking at this diagram

http://www.splitsec.com/products/psc1/PSC1-001con3.jpg

Violet goes in E4-11(cut it, it the wire for the MAF ) to ecu side, the green to the other one going to the sensor

Yellow/Black to E3-27 Tach that one is correct

Nothing should be connected to E4-23 TPS signal and E4-2 VC I see its cut reconnect the original wires together

You may want also to connect (spliced) the red wire to E2-16 and the black one to E4-17

[Boosted2.0]

The TPS is the one with the black connector (bottom pic) - just FYI

[Hetts]

Originally posted by Black_TRD
Thats correct looking at this diagram

http://www.splitsec.com/products/psc1/PSC1-001con3.jpg

Violet goes in E4-11(cut it, it the wire for the MAF ) to ecu side, the green to the other one going to the sensor

Yellow/Black to E3-27 That one is correct

Nothing should be connected to E4-23 TPS signal and E4-2 VC I see its cut reconnect the original wires together

You may want also to connect (spliced) the red wire to E2-16 and the black one to E4-17

Alright, thanks... just so I know what the reasoning behind it is, what does e2-16 and e4-17 control?

[Black_TRD]

Originally posted by Hetts
Alright, thanks... just so I know what the reasoning behind it is, what does e2-16 and e4-17 control?

e2-16 +12V, Ignition switch ON and the E4-17 is ground

[Tikked Again]

My TPS reads 3.91 volts at max...

Now for the pain. If those wires weren't covered in electrical tape on your ecu please get them wrapped up soon! I can only imagine the kind of problems those wires touching could cause.

[mtskibum16]

Originally posted by Tikked Again
My TPS reads 3.91 volts at max...

Now for the pain. If those wires weren't covered in electrical tape on your ecu please get them wrapped up soon! I can only imagine the kind of problems those wires touching could cause. :werd: I am assuming he just un taped them to check the wiring out.

[Hetts]

Originally posted by mtskibum16
:werd: I am assuming he just un taped them to check the wiring out.

Yeah, I had to cut off all the tape. They are taped back up and everything now, even though it doesnt look too pretty. Everything is covered and soldered. Im going to go and start my car now and see if the CEL is still there. Thanks for the help guys.

[DYI01]

Im glad to hear they are soldered, because they look like the wires are just wrapped.

[Hetts]

Originally posted by DYI01
Im glad to hear they are soldered, because they look like the wires are just wrapped.

They wern't soldered before, I did it after I was finished with the corrections.

On another note, the CEL is gone! Thanks again

[Alfy1]

Originally posted by Hetts
They wern't soldered before, I did it after I was finished with the corrections.

On another note, the CEL is gone! Thanks again

Do you still Bogg at around 3k when the turbo spools up?

[Hetts]

Originally posted by Alfy1
Do you still Bogg at around 3k when the turbo spools up?

lol holy ****... yep, sometimes, kinda feels like the MAF is dirty (but it isnt)... something tells me you know something I dont!

The little slug wasnt bothering me much... i was too concentrated on being pinned to my seat and white knuckling my steering wheel. *phew* Do you guys with 275-400 hp ever throw up after a rip? I can barely imagine...

[mtskibum16]

I haven't driven my car much (for some reason I have no boost control and it wants to run into the teens) but I seem to have a bog at around 3000 in first but not any other gear. Any ideas?

[Alfy1]

Originally posted by Hetts
lol holy ****... yep, sometimes, kinda feels like the MAF is dirty (but it isnt)... something tells me you know something I dont!



It's because you are running lean...I don't exactly know why my car stopped bogging but you should really have your map checked.

[Hetts]

Originally posted by Alfy1
It's because you are running lean...I don't exactly know why my car stopped bogging but you should really have your map checked.

it only does it RIGHT at 3,000 though. If I rip all the way through 3rd my pyro doesnt go above 1200 F, so I dont think I'm running lean. But I do agree, right at 3,000, its because I'm running lean. My air/fuel ratio gauge will stick itself on lean, but once I get passed 3,000 it goes back to normal.

And even more to that, it only does it at a particular throttle. It will only do it at around half throttle-3/4ths throttle. If I'm barely going or ripping lbs it doesnt bog...


On a different subject, get this... Whenever I was turning my wheel to about the position that my turn signal would click off, I would hear a clicking noise (much like the noise the turn signal would make) and my lights kinda shimmered a little bit. I didn't think anything of it when it first happened, but then it happened again, and I thought I smelled solder or burnt wire. I'm like, mother ****er, that guy screwed up my gauge wiring too and now they are shorting out. Well I turned into 711 to meet one of my friends, and when I was backing into the spot it did it a couple more times. Then it started to smell even worse. I got out, leaned down, and saw SMOKE under why steering wheel. I get down lower, and look by the grommet leading to the engine bay, and I see what looks like a work light. Then it hits me... THERES A ****ING FIRE IN MY CAR! I blow on it at first, but it does nothing and kind of made it bigger, I dash into 711 and jack a bottle of water, run back out (and no, I didnt pay for the water... not at that point in time, atleast) but when I got back to my car my boy had already pulled out the part that was on fire. II guess the foam right around the grommet can be pulled out. :faint: You arnt supposed to have FIRES in your car. Now my gauges work, but dont light up... thats another thing that im now going to have to learn backwords. *sigh* I would assume its a problem with the 12 volt though, hopefully nothing got fried.

[venomceli]

hey is that a cain tip covering your throttle body engine breather

[Masayver]

I agree that the bogging might be because you are running lean. Before Stafford richened up my map, I would feel the timing pull back when I was at part throttle and I was at 0psi. The fuel system wasn't kicking in at that boost level and I could especially feel it going up long inclines. Now, the mixture richens up and it's completely smooth throughout the rev band. Just my experience.

[Hetts]

Originally posted by Masayver
I agree that the bogging might be because you are running lean. Before Stafford richened up my map, I would feel the timing pull back when I was at part throttle and I was at 0psi. The fuel system wasn't kicking in at that boost level and I could especially feel it going up long inclines. Now, the mixture richens up and it's completely smooth throughout the rev band. Just my experience.

Im getting full and partial throttle tuning after i get my exhaust leak fixed, so i guess that should take care of it. Thanks for the thoughts guys.

[Hetts]

Originally posted by venomceli
hey is that a cain tip covering your throttle body engine breather

Im not sure what it is, but it works. I got this kit used and he had that in there with it.

[Alfy1]

Originally posted by Hetts
Im not sure what it is, but it works. I got this kit used and he had that in there with it.

I have a rubber chair tip on mine.

[mtskibum16]

Originally posted by Alfy1
I have a rubber chair tip on mine.
That is what I'm going to get....

[zerocooll21]

Did some searchin an this thread seems to have the most answers but still have some Q's. I had a new tranni put in last night and when we where putting it back to gether I think we got the wiring all messed up. Right now on the relay I have fuel pump power to pin 87, positive batery to pin 30, red wire from SS to 86, orange in the middle one and a wire from the fuse box to pin 85. I dont know what wire SF tapped into from the fuse box but from the looks of above you guys used a fuse. I saw the notes on where the 4 pins need to be connected and the middle is not used but this was the only was I could get the car to leave the shop with out cuttin out at 3k. right now the car will bog bad if i floor it but act normal when I accel slowly.. My quesition is what should I do about the relay wireing?? where does the red wire go and where should the wire from the fuse box go? I will try an get some pics up s you know what im talking about but I'm at work now so I'll have ot wait.. Any help would be awesome, thanks :)

[zerocooll21]

never mind got it, needed to hook the fuse box wire to the red wire then to the relay..