Brash Boy Engine parts

[SLOWICA]

Brash Boy stroker kits alternative to MWR and Trial Tuning...
Ver. 1
Kit part
* The crankshaft (balance bending correction it is completed)
* Genuine processed connecting rod
* Oil pump spacer
* Oil jet spacer
price ~$3,200
http://brashboy.net/toyota/zzt_celica/image/2000cckit.jpg
Ver. 2
Kit part
* The crankshaft (balance bending correction it is completed)
* Original H section connecting rod
* Oil pump spacer
* Oil jet spacer
price ~$4,200
http://brashboy.net/toyota/zzt_celica/image/2000cckit2.jpg
Low compression piston set
price ~$1,400
http://brashboy.net/toyota/zzt_celica/image/zzt230_piston.jpg

[BHam00GT-S]

what's the compression on the pistons?

[aerospike2002]

(Revised my original statement, because I remember something)

I remember seeing how Brashboy's kit put out 1933 cc's when they tested it, which means that they are using a 1ZZ crankshaft. I know that because MWR's kit puts out the same 1933 cc's and they are using a 1ZZ crankshaft. Only one crankshaft - that from a 1ZZ - would put out 1933 cc's in a 2ZZ block.

Trial, however, uses an entirely different Toyota OEM crankshaft from some 4-cylindre model. Not only do they advertise this, but when I put my 3ZZ-GE on the engine dyno (not a rolling dyno...it's a special dyno made for the engine when it's out of the vehicle), it proved it by outputting 1998 cc's. A true 2.0 litres.

However, Brashboy did utilize the same Japanese piston company for their pistons as Trial does. But Trial's are 13.7:1, while Brashboy says theirs are low comp. I don't know why Brashboy uses low comp. :confused: - part of the power output from Trial's 3ZZ-GE comes specifically from it's high comp. pistons.

Also, Brashboy again used the same manufacturer as Trial when they developed their "version 2" con rods. Before Brashboy was even thinking of doing a "version 2," Trial outsourced to Carrillo for the new con rods in the Trial 3ZZ-GE Stg. II kit. When those con rods were done, Trial put together 3 of the new 3ZZ-GE Stg. II kits. They sent me one kit for testing, and kept 2 - one for their Celica and one for their Elise. Right when I received my kit, I was admiring the con rods and noticed that Brashboy had recently posted up a picture of their new "version 2" stroker kit that looked curiously like a copy. Turns out right after Trial finished with Carrillo, Brashboy ordered their own sets - little bit different specs like the pistons. Here's a picture of my 3ZZ-GE Stg. II rods. Compare how they look exactly the same as the "version 2" rods of Brashboy's.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v167/aerospike007/3ZZGEStgIIRods.jpg

I'm not against Brashboy in any way - they've got some great parts that Trial doesn't. But they also pretty much copied Trial's 3ZZ-GE kit, at least in terms of manufacturers they used for various parts, and not only that, but they came out with a kit that produces less power than Trial's!

Apparently, their patent laws in Japan (or whatever they have over there) are not so strict.

[canton_ph34r]

Nope they are not thats probably why Mitsubishi was allowed to make cars with MIVEC overseas but not here.

There is more of a honor code there I guess.

[SexyCelica53]

why so expensive, MWR has a race build for 5450

these arent for the 1zz are they?? would it be cheaper for a 1zzfe?

[aerospike2002]

why so expensive, MWR has a race build for 5450

these arent for the 1zz are they?? would it be cheaper for a 1zzfe?


Read a little bit closer on MWR's page and you'll see that you have to add another $550 for the stroker onto that Stg. IV Complete Engine price. So a total of $6000.

The Trial and Brashboy stuff are so expensive simply because they are JDM (that's going to be the canned answer to the questions about price that are inevitably going to be asked multiple times in this subforum :chuckles: )

[SexyCelica53]

well what i wanna do is a rebuild with all performance, pistons, cams , rods, etc. not exactly sure whats out there and whose the best. but i really wanna do this as a winter project,

would doing up a 1zzfe be useless??? the only part i dont like about the 2zz is that ill have to change out the ecu and whatever else is different

any help in this area would be greatly appreciated

[aerospike2002]

well what i wanna do is a rebuild with all performance, pistons, cams , rods, etc. not exactly sure whats out there and whose the best. but i really wanna do this as a winter project,

would doing up a 1zzfe be useless??? the only part i dont like about the 2zz is that ill have to change out the ecu and whatever else is different

any help in this area would be greatly appreciated


Side note, but you're a girl, right? I'm guessing from your sig. That's cool - not too many chicas in this subforum so far (no, I'm not using EPA rights guys!).

Anyway, to answer your question, here are your options based on whether you are planning to be N/A or go F/I. Keep in mind that N/A will not produce as much power, but will probably be more reliable:

N/A

Cheapest Route to Cool N/A Power

Your cheapest way here would be NOT to use Trial or Brashboy, but purchase the 2ZZ MWR Race Engine with Stroker. Pull your whole 1ZZ-FE engine and send it to MWR so you don't pay a core charge. Also, buy these extra parts from MWR:

-MWR Main and Rod Bearings Sets
-RPS Sport Street Clutch

And, if available, buy the 2ZZ TOGA Oil Pump from TOGA and send it to MWR to install instead of a new Toyota OEM one. That should save you a little money and it's far better than the OEM one. They will use some of your 1ZZ parts (like the 1ZZ flywheel I believe) and use them on a 2ZZ core that they already have, then ship it back. You should get 12.0:1 pistons or around there and a Power FC. I think you have at least 93 octane up there in Canada, so that should work fine. You're final product will be basically how the 2ZZ should have come from the factory - the torque curve and power will be perfect. The Power FC will give you infinite adjustability. You will be smiling.

Don't worry about switching to the 6-speed tranny to better utilize your power curve because you, technically, would have a 5-speed on a "little power curve" stroked 2ZZ.
Raising the fuel cut with your Power FC will take care of that problem. Also, the 5-speed tranny is believed to be not as fragile as the 6-speed.

F/I

Cheapest But Awesome Power

Turbocharge your 1ZZ. Power will be crazy-feeling. Raw and neck-snapping. Not as smooth a build-up as with a turbocharged 2ZZ or 3ZZ.

Anyway, do the following:

Pull your 1ZZ, send it to MWR so you have no core charge.

Order from MWR:

-1ZZ Full Race Engine
-Power Enterprise 165 or 210 lph fuel pump
-MWR ARP Exhaust Manifold Studs
-MWR ARP flywheel bolts
-RPS Max Street Clutch
-MWR Main & Rod Bearings Sets

Order from TOGA

-1ZZ Oil Pump (already available). Send it to MWR and tell them to use it instead of a new Toyota OEM one. That should save you some money, and it's far better than the OEM one.

Order from C2 Power:

-GT Stage I or Stage II Turbo Kit - both with eManage

When you get the built engine back from MWR, drop it in the car, installing the turbo kit at the same time. Load a rich map on the eManage. Drive for about 2000-2500 miles or so without staying at a single RPM for long periods of time, and not going over 5000 RPM's. This breaks the engine in. After, tune your eManage map and have fun. Drive at a responsible boost setting, and with a responsible foot on the clutch, and your 5-speed trany will be fine.

Most Expensive Option & The BESTEST Power

Pull your 1ZZ and sell it or something. Buy a used 2ZZ from a junkyard - one where the car was wrecked, NOT the engine :). Break it down to just a bare short block, keeping for yourself all the screws and bolts that attach different parts of the block together.

Order the following from MWR:

-MWR ARP Exhaust Manifold, Main, and Cylindre Head Studs
-MWR ARP Flywheel bolts
-RPS Max-Street Clutch
-Power Enterprise 210 lph fuel pump
-MWR 2ZZ Bare Block sleeved with Darton Sleeves
-Wiseco 8.8:1 pistons

Order from eBay:

-2ZZ A'PEXi Power FC

Order from C2:

-C2 Power 2ZZ Stg. II turbo kit

Order from Trial:

-Trial 3ZZ-GE Stg. II kit WITHOUT pistons.

Order from Toyota:

-New 2ZZ Oil Pump (or if TOGA has theirs out by then, get one from them)
-New lift bolts

Also...you should do your cylindre head. Get Supertech valves and Eibach EVS Valve Springs. I can give you the sites with the lowest prices on those (I also started a thread in the Performance forum about it)

Take the whole sche-bang to a reputable engine shop and have them assemble it. I recommend having them cryotreat the crank and rods, ceramic coat the tops and skirts of the pistons, balance and blueprint the whole engine. Then, they can put it all together and put the turbo kit on as they drop the beast back in your car. Load a rich map on the Power FC. Drive for 2000-2500 miles, taking care not to stay at a set RPM for extended periods of time. Don't go into lift or above 6000 rpm's. When your engine is broken in, tune your Power FC, and get ready to have some fun.

Notice: However long your tranny will last is based on how crazy you are, and how high you set your boost.

---------

The third option is what I have done, although I had a 2ZZ to begin with, so it was a bit more simple. It's pricey too - that's an understatement. Without my C2 and Trial sponsorships, I couldn't have done it.

Sorry for so much info! Hope it helped...

[Sultan]

^^^
very nice write-up... that is definitely worth the read

[AnointedDC5]

Aerospike2002: I tried searching but I can't seem to find any dyno numbers that you are putting down. Have you had it dynoed? I like the setup you have chosen and a friend of mine with a GTS plans on using a similar setup, only difference being he is going to use the TRIAL/BLITZ supercharger as F/I. Any suggestions on how he can up the boost on the S/C?

[SexyCelica53]

oh man thanx alot, that was a really good response
either way this is goona be a pain in the ass without sponsorship

p.s.- sorry for the confusiion i am a guy and the name is referring to the car :)

[Rey_Vibora]

:thumbup:

[aerospike2002]

Aerospike2002: I tried searching but I can't seem to find any dyno numbers that you are putting down. Have you had it dynoed? I like the setup you have chosen and a friend of mine with a GTS plans on using a similar setup, only difference being he is going to use the TRIAL/BLITZ supercharger as F/I. Any suggestions on how he can up the boost on the S/C?


(Answer to the question about your friends Blitz S/C is at the bottom of my answer to you)

No, there are no wheel dyno's yet. This is because the engine is still not even back in the car, so the turbo kit is not even installed yet. Engine is just sitting at the shop, waiting for them to make time for it (the car has been there for the past 10 months just sitting in the back...it's not a big priority now).

I should further explain the engine dyno - it's a really neat thing, and there are many options one can select as to what you want the engine dyno to report. Each option costs more, and the base price is $200 as is. So the only option I chose was to have the engine dyno report my cubic centimetre / litre output. This was the only thing I wanted to know because all I was interested in doing was proving that the 3ZZ-GE (at least the Stg. II kits like I have) is NOT the same thing as the MWR kit which I knew only output 1933 cc's or 1.93 litres. The dyno proved just that - Trial's 3ZZ-GE Stg. II outputs 1998 cc's, or 1.98 litres. That's as close to a true 2.0 litre as it gets.

Anyway, if you want to see that info, it's just a boring looking Excel document that the engine dyno computer spit out :) But I can dig it out of my files and scan it.

Here, by the way, is a picture of the engine dyno that I used.

Control Room
http://www.superiorautomotive.com/walk-through/images/13_Dyno_Control_Room.jpg

Engine Dyno
http://www.superiorautomotive.com/walk-through/images/15_Dyno_Engine_Rm2.jpg

It's at the shop which did all my work - Superiour Automotive in Southern California. AWESOME place...they used to be located in NY and have been in business since the 60's. The guys really know their stuff, how to build anything, and do it for a GREAT price (because sponsorships only work for the actual Trial components, not for the labour and install. So I didn't want to get raped on that). Look at some of the pics on the "walkthrough" of their website I posted below. Seriously...the place is like a laboratory. SOOO clean and everything in it's place - this leads to great efficiency and maximization of their abilities. It's stuff like that which makes them do such good work, and why I chose them.

www.superiorautomotive.com

Lastly, if your friend is getting the Blitz S/C, tell him he just needs the pistonless 3ZZ-GE Stg. I. Tell him to buy from MWR:

-MWR 2ZZ Darton sleeved bare block.
-Wiseco 8.8:1 pistons (or maybe even the 10.0:1 version - depends on what quality of gas he can access).
-RPS Max Street Clutch
-Possibly a lighter flywheel - that's completely a driver thing. If so, get the RPS Cyn-R-Gy flywheel.
-A Power Enterprise fuel pump if the Blitz kit doesn't come with one. PE 165 lph is fine for the S/C.
-MWR ARP Main, Cylindre Head, and Exhaust Manifold studs.
-MWR ARP Flywheel bolts (even if he doesn't get a new flywheel....these are reusable ones, so he might as well install them since the engine is out of the car. Plus, they're only $30 or something)

Get a new oil pump from Toyota or TOGA.

If you guys don't want to balance and blueprint, ceramic coat the top and skirts of the pistons, etc. Or do anything with your cylindre head (parts for that I listed up top), then if he is mechanically competent, he should be able to just put everything together in his garage. Otherwise, find a good shop. I always say it's better to pay to play.

As for increasing the power - you're going to have to get a shop to make a custom pulley for you. Maybe try calling up Jackson Racing - they could maybe do something or refer you to a shop they use or know of. They do all kinds of Stg. II/III kits for their S/C's, which just come with different sizes of pulleys.

oh man thanx alot, that was a really good response
either way this is goona be a pain in the ass without sponsorship

p.s.- sorry for the confusiion i am a guy and the name is referring to the car :)


It's only a PITA until it's all done. Then it's awesome ;)

I wasn't confused about your Screenname...it was your sig (the one about a guys G/F hating you because you're beautiful). I figured most guys don't say they're beautiful, so I thought you must be a girl.

I feel like a flaming homo now :sadpace:

[AnointedDC5]

Wow man great response you know your stuff! Thanks for all the input I am sure he is reading your post as I type. :thumbup:

[SexyCelica53]

lol my bad aero , but it was a line somewhere else that i quoted

all this is really gettin me into wantin to rebuild a motor during the winter,,just not sure whats the best thing to do all im looking for is like 250hp

could i get that out of a 1zz motor??? or should i opt for the 2zz

[aerospike2002]

With a turbo, you could be close on the 1ZZ. PM a member named Masayver. He had a very high hp GT.

I forgot to add one more thing to that list above. Whatever option you go with, as long as you have your engine pulled and taken apart, go ahead and get a Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket. Vendor on here for them is Wired Speed Lab. Guy named Ricky.