GReddy SC Hesitation / Bogging Problems

[jlitman]

Attention those who have the GReddy SC and emanage ultimate: Have you found your car is bogging or hesitating when accelerating from a stop? I know at least a few of us have reported this problem. How about when accelerating suddenly? Any other times?

Take a look at my A/F ratios in the dyno below. They are considerably higher at low RPM's (too lean?) and then progressively get richer, hovering around 13 - 14. That seems to look similar to a few other FI tunes that I've seen after a search, but I wonder if my (our) hesitation problems are due to running too lean rather than too rich, at least off the line.

http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/17432jordan_celica1-med.jpg

Alternatively it could be due to something else in the emanage tune like bad settings on the acceleration injector adjustment map, because I also find it hesitates if I'm at low RPM's and then gun it.

Any thoughts? Reports from those with the GReddy or others who have similar setups? I'm totally new to this and willing to learn/search/read articles etc., but please bear with me if I ask a stupid question.

Our last thread where we were all talking about this got closed because it started to stray off topic -- hopefully that won't happen here...

[Tikked Again]

Those A/F are far to lean for all the hot, compressed, air. You should be looking at something closer to 12.5/1 or less

[nyoneway]

The AF ratio and curve looks pretty stock, which is lean at low RPM and richer at higher. Although the AF looks too lean for comfort, I don't think it's the culprit for your hesitation.

Sounds like a MAF or tuning issue to me, but I'm leaning towards the MAF - since I've had that same exact problem and symptoms before even without FI.

[PRRedCelicaGT]

maybe your problem is that u r running too rich in low rpms and when the ecu detects it she tries to compensate to get u close to stoich. that will cause bogging and hesitation......my car did that when i installed my turbo and i was running it untuned.

do u have a wideband??

[celico_man]

What you need to do is TUNE your car.

[MicaCeli]

What you need to do is TUNE your car.


By Golly, it's a long shot......BUT IT JUST MIGHT WORK!!!!!!!1111

[fubarlphie]

do you have any way of logging? a log with timing advance/multiplier, a/f ratio, and knock would be nice.

[Korben007]

k the bogging is usually at a certain throttle position. not gently on the gas and not floored, somewhere in between. the main cause of this in the Celica is the lack of a MAP sensor. Are cars run off a MAF airflow reading. It measures the amount of air coming into the engine speed wise through the intake. Once you switch to forced induction it becomes harder for the ECU to tell how much air is going into the engine. With a supercharger the second you tap that gas the bypass valve closed and the manifold instantly become pressurized rather then vaccum. The ecu has no way of knowing whether you are in vaccum or boost. It can only read how much air is coming through the intake. It takes the MAF a second to catch up and realize that the air flow is changing. On an NA car your always running in vaccum unless your a full throttle. On a FI car you can be in boost at part throttle. Our ecu's were never designed for use like this. You have to rechange the way the whole computer thinks. It has to be taugh to treat throttle positions differently. This bogging condition is occuring when the engine is hiting boost but you are at a lower throttle position. You can tune out some of this hesitation but it will always be somewhat of a problem as long as you dont have a MAP sensor. If you have a boost gauge it will help alot. If you are starting to hit boost give it a little more gas to help the ecu out. One of the downfalls of a piggyback. Sorry. Lots of stand alones cant completely solve this problem, lots of them can though. One of the reasons why the AEM is such a wonder device! Hope this helps
~Rory

[VoodooTRD]

Just get a PowerFC and tune that bad boy and you should be getting some fine curves!! :headbang:



k the bogging is usually at a certain throttle position. not gently on the gas and not floored, somewhere in between. the main cause of this in the Celica is the lack of a MAP sensor. Are cars run off a MAF airflow reading. It measures the amount of air coming into the engine speed wise through the intake. Once you switch to forced induction it becomes harder for the ECU to tell how much air is going into the engine. With a supercharger the second you tap that gas the bypass valve closed and the manifold instantly become pressurized rather then vaccum. The ecu has no way of knowing whether you are in vaccum or boost. It can only read how much air is coming through the intake. It takes the MAF a second to catch up and realize that the air flow is changing. On an NA car your always running in vaccum unless your a full throttle. On a FI car you can be in boost at part throttle. Our ecu's were never designed for use like this. You have to rechange the way the whole computer thinks. It has to be taugh to treat throttle positions differently. This bogging condition is occuring when the engine is hiting boost but you are at a lower throttle position. You can tune out some of this hesitation but it will always be somewhat of a problem as long as you dont have a MAP sensor. If you have a boost gauge it will help alot. If you are starting to hit boost give it a little more gas to help the ecu out. One of the downfalls of a piggyback. Sorry. Lots of stand alones cant completely solve this problem, lots of them can though. One of the reasons why the AEM is such a wonder device! Hope this helps
~Rory

[celicabass]

ok im waiting on my kit coming which should be weds, wot would be better to by the aem Single-Channel UEGO Gauge including sensor, displayed in AFR, black bezel/black face.03-4211

or

the apexi safc2

i want to try and eliminate as much of this problem as possible

[fubarlphie]

for sure the UEGO is better

[Blue Angel]

I have a Blitz SC with an eManage Ultimate and it works quite well but it literally took 3 months of tuning to get it there. I will get the maps from my tuner and post them as soon as I can. I know he is out of town right now so it may be a few days. Despite the difference in our SC setups, the maps will be a good indication of what is different between our maps and what to look at further. My A/F ratio averages 12.5. I am also getting a final dyno done to 8K rpm that I will post.

[celicabass]

can u use the uego to tune a/f ratios from inside the car? mayb im being stupid asking

[jlitman]

Thanks guys -- this is all really helpful advice!

Blue Angel, does your car run as smoothly as stock or close to it after all that tuning? I really didn't expect that the trade off for the extra power would be to have the car run like total crap :( Whn you say 3 months of tuning ... how many hours are we talking about? :ugh:

[Immo]

On an NA car your always running in vaccum unless your a full throttle.

???
rest of the story seems right to me

[cool2miketlu]

Thanks guys -- this is all really helpful advice!

Blue Angel, does your car run as smoothly as stock or close to it after all that tuning? I really didn't expect that the trade off for the extra power would be to have the car run like total crap :( Whn you say 3 months of tuning ... how many hours are we talking about? :ugh:



A tuner that knows what they are doing can get it done within 4 hours if everything is hooked up right and things that needs to be done is done.
Run injector cleaner with this fill up till empty. Refill with Chevron high octane fuel + oil change + clean air filter, clean your MAF sensor right before you go to the tuner.

[fubarlphie]

can u use the uego to tune a/f ratios from inside the car? mayb im being stupid asking

i think the best way to do it is to do a run, and have your a/f ratios logged against your rpm. then adjust your fuel map accordinlgy. repeat as many times as necessary.

can e-manage ultimate adjust your timing?

[nyoneway]

i think the best way to do it is to do a run, and have your a/f ratios logged against your rpm. then adjust your fuel map accordinlgy. repeat as many times as necessary.


It won't solve his problem unlese has the throttle position logged as well.

[Illusive]

did you clean your maf when you installed the kit? any vaccume leaks?

[fubarlphie]

It won't solve his problem unlese has the throttle position logged as well.

celicabass doesn't have a problem. he just asked a general question about tuning.

[Blue Angel]

Thanks guys -- this is all really helpful advice!

Blue Angel, does your car run as smoothly as stock or close to it after all that tuning? I really didn't expect that the trade off for the extra power would be to have the car run like total crap :( Whn you say 3 months of tuning ... how many hours are we talking about? :ugh:

Except for a rough idle when starting very cold, it behaves smoothly and predictably. And I think we can eliminate the rough idle too. The tuner was new to Celicas but not the eManage. I couldn't tell you exactly how many hours because a lot were wasted on wiring issues as well as just getting things to fit. A Celica tuner could have done it much quicker.

[jlitman]

A tuner that knows what they are doing can get it done within 4 hours if everything is hooked up right and things that needs to be done is done.
Run injector cleaner with this fill up till empty. Refill with Chevron high octane fuel + oil change + clean air filter, clean your MAF sensor right before you go to the tuner.

Injectors are new with kit, MAF is clean, air filter is brand new too, and I only ever use Chevron 93, so I'm good there.

The shop felt confident that they could tune it within an hour or two at the most -- so I'm feeling a bit more optimistic! For the time being, we pulled the fuses on the ECU and let it reset. Right now, drives great. I'm going to drive it easy for the weekend and see how the car behaves, then early next week, take it in for tuning.

Except for a rough idle when starting very cold, it behaves smoothly and predictably. And I think we can eliminate the rough idle too. The tuner was new to Celicas but not the eManage. I couldn't tell you exactly how many hours because a lot were wasted on wiring issues as well as just getting things to fit. A Celica tuner could have done it much quicker.

That is incredibly encouraging news!!! The guy working on my car is very familiar with toyotas and has worked on 7th gen Celicas before, so I think I'm covered there. He's familiar with the emanage, but new to the ultimate, so there may be a little bit of learning curve, but not too much. He's just not familiar with this particular GReddy kit, but then who is since it was only just released.

Guys, any and all advice, suggestions and of course maps, if I / we can use them, will be greatly appreciated!! Besides posting here, feel free to PM me or email me at jlitman@shell.cas.usf.edu with any of the aforementioned.

Other comments --

Illusive: no vacuum leaks.

Voodoo TRD: If I had the money, I'd buy the Brash Boy PFC, but I think that will have to wait for now... definitely worth considering in the furture, tho'!

Everybody else: Thanks for suggestions and comments -- they are very helpful! :thumbup:

[Ragnorak Racing]

I would not drive your car at WOT until you have it retuned mate. That A/F ratio, if accurate looks ready to melt your motor in no time. You should be down in the 11.5 range or even lower with no intercooler, 11.5:1 compression and pump gas. Not near 14:1!! Good luck with tuning your car.

[jlitman]

I would not drive your car at WOT until you have it retuned mate. That A/F ratio, if accurate looks ready to melt your motor in no time. You should be down in the 11.5 range or even lower with no intercooler, 11.5:1 compression and pump gas. Not near 14:1!! Good luck with tuning your car.

Should it be safe to drive at partial throttle? That's what I've been doing/intend to continue doing until I can get it tuned early next week...

I don't think I've had it over 4000 RPM's (and generally, closer to 2000 driving around) more than a few times since I had the kit installed.

Is there anything else I can do in the meantime? Should I beg the shop to tune it tomorrow if possible? :scared: x 1000

[fubarlphie]

Should it be safe to drive at partial throttle? That's what I've been doing/intend to continue doing until I can get it tuned early next week...

I don't think I've had it over 4000 RPM's (and generally, closer to 2000 driving around) more than a few times since I had the kit installed.

Is there anything else I can do in the meantime? Should I beg the shop to tune it tomorrow if possible? :scared: x 1000

i think it'll be ok as long as you don't push it. if you get knock due to the high a/f ratios, your ecu will pull timing. assuming your ecu can pull enough timing to eliminate any knock, you'll be ok. do you have any way of logging knock or egt? then you'll know for sure.

[jlitman]

Should it be safe to drive at partial throttle? That's what I've been doing/intend to continue doing until I can get it tuned early next week...

I don't think I've had it over 4000 RPM's (and generally, closer to 2000 driving around) more than a few times since I had the kit installed.

Is there anything else I can do in the meantime? Should I beg the shop to tune it tomorrow if possible? :scared: x 1000

i think it'll be ok as long as you don't push it. if you get knock due to the high a/f ratios, your ecu will pull timing. assuming your ecu can pull enough timing to eliminate any knock, you'll be ok. do you have any way of logging knock or egt? then you'll know for sure.

Okay, thanks, that is comforting!

As to recording knock, unfortunately, no. Naively, I didn't think I'd need to invest in something to monitor the engine, but now I see that maybe I should... any recommendations?

GReddy has some new gadget coming out that tracks a bunch of things and data logs called the Informeter (how clever :rolleyes:) -- http://store.yahoo.com/hopup1/grininfcosh.html

In theory, the emanage is retarding my ignition timing considerably already. There's no audible knoocking, and the car is running smoothly at partial throttle again after pulling the fuses...

The shop seemed to feel that I would be okay, but that has me worried a bit too. Their rationale is that these are GReddy's "safe" settings, and GReddy must have retarded the hell out of the timing, else I'd already be in trouble.

However, what they DIDN'T know was that everyone else reports running rich, whereas I am running lean! After I explained that, they said they'd get me in first thing Monday morning and to just keep it out of boost until then :scared:

Here's what's so weird: GReddy claims that the kit is only for manuals and only for cable throttle (BTW: I had gotten a lot of conflicting info about the kit's applications from GReddy :furious: ). Despite that, it has obviously worked fine on DBW's and for my auto.

But ... everyone's Celica, whether cable throttle or DBW, is supposedly running pig rich except me? Why? Could it be that the auto ECU has the car running leaner than the others? Could this be why the rev limit is at 7800 on the auto? Or, is it just that everyone is actually running lean (has anyone else looked at their AF ratio? :confused:

Why am I the only one running dangerously lean? :wtc:

[Ragnorak Racing]

There is no way that a 14:1 A/F ratio is "safe" for your car. Part throttle your car until you get it retuned. Greddy's "safe" twin turbo kit for the 350Z has turned out to be anything but.

[jlitman]

^^^ Yeesh. Thanks for the warning, R.R. I will do very little driving over the weekend and keep it to very low RPM's. Do you think the Hondata IMG will give me a little extra insurance by keeping the intake charge colder (don't they claim like up to 20% colder?)

Can you / anyone recommend a good relatively inexpensive, multipurpose logging device? Is the GReddy informeter any good? Open to suggestions!

EDIT: Oh, I do not have a laptop, so something that plugs into the OBDII is ideal...

Anyone have any idea why I'm running so lean when everyone else runs rich? That dyno run had to be right after the eManage was hooked up, so well before the ECU could attempt to push it towards stock settings.

(I guess there's really no such thing as a truly "bolt on kit" unless it comes from the factory ... :sadpace: )

[Illusive]

There is no way that a 14:1 A/F ratio is "safe" for your car. Part throttle your car until you get it retuned. Greddy's "safe" twin turbo kit for the 350Z has turned out to be anything but.
yep they have more blown motors than I can count.

[Jesse IL]

Yet another F/Ii kit manufacturer with complete crap tuning out of the box. Them and XS Engineering should party :rolleyes:

[SickCelica696]

GReddy has some new gadget coming out that tracks a bunch of things and data logs called the Informeter (how clever :rolleyes:) -- http://store.yahoo.com/hopup1/grininfcosh.html


That thing looks pimp, its on my shopping list now.

[jlitman]

GReddy has some new gadget coming out that tracks a bunch of things and data logs called the Informeter (how clever :rolleyes:) -- http://store.yahoo.com/hopup1/grininfcosh.html


That thing looks pimp, its on my shopping list now.

I emailed GReddy to see what info it can read on the Celica (note that not all functions will work on all cars) so we'll see what they say, if they even know, that is... if it can at least read A/F and intake temp, it would be a pretty useful gadget to own.

[SickCelica696]

^^ Sweet deal, theres alot of stuff on there that could be useful, plus I need another gadget to play with :crazy2:

[Boosted2.0]

Like I always said - if you go FI the FIRST thing you do is get tuned. Don't matter how good your basemap is alleged to be or who made it, you get tuned.

[jlitman]

Like I always said - if you go FI the FIRST thing you do is get tuned. Don't matter how good your basemap is alleged to be or who made it, you get tuned.

I definitely put way too much faith in GReddy's tune.

I'm a FI :newbie: ... but eager to learn :)

[sbocaj55]

hmmm looks like I might need more than my one week spring break to get this kit installed and running...maybe I should just wait for the summer.

I don't understand why everyone else said they were running too rich, but you are running too lean? I hope other people with this kit will get dynos so we can take a look at the air/fuel ratios. I wouldn't think that only your kit would be 'messed up' or something. :confused:

[Korben007]

you can do it in a week no problem if you have everything you need. Just get the tuner scheduled ahead of time so that he is ready. It takes about 6-7hrs to install if you have everything you need. so thats only one night. then you can take it to the tuner the next day and let him have at it for a couple days. Still get some party time in at spring break too..

[6speedGTS]

hmmm looks like I might need more than my one week spring break to get this kit installed and running...maybe I should just wait for the summer.

I don't understand why everyone else said they were running too rich, but you are running too lean? I hope other people with this kit will get dynos so we can take a look at the air/fuel ratios. I wouldn't think that only your kit would be 'messed up' or something. :confused:


I believe he has a automatic transmission and Gready only programmed the e manage for cars equipped with a standard transmission.

[ucmd03]

anyone have any base map for supercharger or turbo to work off of for the power fc?????????????

plan on tuning with wideband, but a basemap would save a little frustration.

much appreciated

[btagoc]

GReddy has some new gadget coming out that tracks a bunch of things and data logs called the Informeter (how clever :rolleyes:) -- http://store.yahoo.com/hopup1/grininfcosh.html


Meh. There are a million OBD2 solutions out there for cheaper than that. I got the Tekmate link to my laptop for under 100 shipped and it can datalog everything that that greddy can see and more. It is insanely usefull for tuning the emanage to datalog the ignition retard as a function of RPM so you know exactly where to pull timing.

Its also nice to be able to log your fuel trims under various situations for tuning purposes. It also does simulated dyno runs, 1/4 mi times, 0-60 speed etc etc etc... and, of course, can read and clear error codes.


http://www.tekmatetools.com/

[SirCharlesC7]

This looks very very nice for the ones that have a laptop!

[slvceli]

Yet another F/Ii kit manufacturer with complete crap tuning out of the box. Them and XS Engineering should party :rolleyes:
Do you think this is a fair assessment considering the tuning was designed for a manual 6 speed vs. his 4 speed automatic? I would think the tuning would need to be much different.

[jlitman]

Good news -- just got back from getting it tuned, A/F's are right around 12.0, hesitation at low RPM's / partial throttle was due to the fuel maps needing to be made richer. Inital readings were off and overly lean due to my stupid dirty MAFS (I cleaned it recently, but apparently not recently enough --D'OH! Glad I no longer use the damn K&N filter...).

The shop suggested giving it a few days to see how the ECU reacts, but hopefully the hesitation problem is solved -- if not, they said they can make some more adjustments! (All I need now is the lift controller EDIT: er, and a camcom...). Will post new dynos as soon as they are emailed to me -- everyone with an automatic who intends to get the GReddy SC needs to email me for more info and the map, which should be emailed to me shortly as well. My addy is jlitman@shell.cas.usf.edu (also, if someone reading this has more info on the lift controller that a few folks are working on, please PM me or email me!).

More details later -- but for the moment I AM SO FRIGGING HAPPY :applaud: :headbang: :applaud:

[gts_00_18s]

Congrats jlitman. I figured i would come out the dark for a moment to make a post just for you lol. Good to see everything worked out well. And if you don't mind can u send me the Dyno files and the maps to jwblackb@uncg.edu.....

***God i do not need to spend money on this, but i really WANT ONE NOW...lol. it'll be a few months away but so far its looking very positive.

[celico_man]

So, any differnece in power now that it's tuned.

[jlitman]

So, any differnece in power now that it's tuned.

Running out the door, but short answer is: Nope. End result is +21 wtq and +47 whp, which on the poorly geared auto is a staggering increase in power. Keep in mind that is with an estimated drivetrian loss of a whopping 23%! The manuals will certainly see better gains by at least 10% if not more.

If I can get hold of a lift controller from the folks who were working on it for their Matrixes (Matrices?), and duplicate the trick accomplished by whomever tuned the blower for the Elise, I should be able to lower lift enough to be the first auto to actually land lift in every gear ... we'll see ... still a bit pie in the sky, but not impossible in the near future with a bit of luck and some additional tuning.

Congrats jlitman. I figured i would come out the dark for a moment to make a post just for you lol. Good to see everything worked out well. And if you don't mind can u send me the Dyno files and the maps to jwblackb@uncg.edu.....

***God i do not need to spend money on this, but i really WANT ONE NOW...lol. it'll be a few months away but so far its looking very positive.

Thank you! Fingers crossed that more fine tuning won't be needed ... we'll see. I'll send info and maps as soon as I receive them from the shop in a mass email ;)

[Black_TRD]

Running out the door, but short answer is: Nope. End result is +21 wtq and +47 whp, which on the poorly geared auto is a staggering increase in power. Keep in mind that is with an estimated drivetrian loss of a whopping 23%! The manuals will certainly see better gains by at least 10% if not more.

If I can get hold of a lift controller from the folks who were working on it for their Matrixes (Matrices?), and duplicate the trick accomplished by whomever tuned the blower for the Elise, I should be able to lower lift enough to be the first auto to actually land lift in every gear ... we'll see ... still a bit pie in the sky, but not impossible in the near future with a bit of luck and some additional tuning.


Thank you! Fingers crossed that more fine tuning won't be needed ... we'll see. I'll send info and maps as soon as I receive them from the shop in a mass email ;)

you will need a camcon for that or its worthless :hide:

[jlitman]

Running out the door, but short answer is: Nope. End result is +21 wtq and +47 whp, which on the poorly geared auto is a staggering increase in power. Keep in mind that is with an estimated drivetrian loss of a whopping 23%! The manuals will certainly see better gains by at least 10% if not more.

If I can get hold of a lift controller from the folks who were working on it for their Matrixes (Matrices?), and duplicate the trick accomplished by whomever tuned the blower for the Elise, I should be able to lower lift enough to be the first auto to actually land lift in every gear ... we'll see ... still a bit pie in the sky, but not impossible in the near future with a bit of luck and some additional tuning.


Thank you! Fingers crossed that more fine tuning won't be needed ... we'll see. I'll send info and maps as soon as I receive them from the shop in a mass email ;)

you will need a camcon for that or its worthless :hide:

Yes -- that is what I had always thought, and I'm happy to add that to the shopping list, but how did Ragnorak (??) do this for the Elise without tuning cam angle-- or should we assume that they did play with VVT via an ECU reflash?

[Ragnorak Racing]

Yes -- that is what I had always thought, and I'm happy to add that to the shopping list, but how did Ragnorak (??) do this for the Elise without tuning cam angle-- or should we assume that they did play with VVT via an ECU reflash?

We retune the cam timing on the reflash. :)

[jlitman]

Yes -- that is what I had always thought, and I'm happy to add that to the shopping list, but how did Ragnorak (??) do this for the Elise without tuning cam angle-- or should we assume that they did play with VVT via an ECU reflash?

We retune the cam timing on the reflash. :)

I see -- so then, in theory, if I get hold of a camcom and the (presently experimental) lift controller is made available, is it feasible that I could adjust my cam timing and lower lift to around, say, 4700 RPM and gain power? :drool:

[gts_00_18s]

Jlitman, have you thought on one of boosted2.0's ported headers? At 150+60.00 core...210.00, that looks like a worthy mod. The manual made 10 whp and 10 more tq. in the lower band....w/ a SC even the auto should see similar or better gains....all hypothetical...but thats not a huge price tag. just food for the thought.....also didn't Ragnorak Racing make a TB?

To Ragnorak, would the TB bolt up to this SC? Then would we also see the gains comparable to the manual's dyno for these?

[jlitman]

^^^
Unless that is necessary to drop lift to 4700 (that's all we need for the autos to stay in lift in every gear, shifitng at redline, without changing the rev limit), I'm not interested in doing all of that right now -- good idea for the future (and in in general) tho'!

If this can be done without tearing anything apart other than wiring, that would be ideal -- I'm having all this done by by pros and want to both minimize labor costs as well as the time my car would be down.

Oh, quick note to all:
If you want the base map from GReddy, just email me at jlitman@shell.cas.usf.edu.

If you want one based on my car, I don't have it yet, and I plan to go back next week for a little fine tuning (feels off by a hair -- very close to spot-on tho'). Keep in mind that with either of these maps YOU MUST HAVE YOUR CAR TUNED! My CAR IS NOT EXACTLY THE SAME AS YOURS EVEN IF YOU HAVE AN AUTO!!!! I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR HOW ANY MAP I GIVE YOU AFFECTS YOUR CAR. YOU MUST HAVE IT TUNED FOR YOUR CAR -- INDICATE YOUR UNDERSTANDING OF THIS TO ME IN YOUR EMAIL, PLEASE!
Thanks,
-jl-

[PRRedCelicaGT]

Unless that is necessary to drop lift to 4700

:werd:

[gts_00_18s]

^^^
Unless that is necessary to drop lift to 4700 (that's all we need for the autos to stay in lift in every gear, shifitng at redline, without changing the rev limit),


no its not, i was just throwing out there for the thought,haha. The header looks like a cost effective mod...not too difficult to install (could be worse) and could really help at the next tune..... BTW, how is the search for lowering lift coming along?

[jlitman]

^^^
Unless that is necessary to drop lift to 4700 (that's all we need for the autos to stay in lift in every gear, shifitng at redline, without changing the rev limit),


no its not, i was just throwing out there for the thought,haha. The header looks like a cost effective mod...not too difficult to install (could be worse) and could really help at the next tune..... BTW, how is the search for lowering lift coming along?


Hey -- it's a great idea! Just more than I want to get into at the moment, unless I have to that is :)

As to a device for lowering lift, we're all waiting to hear from Nolat who is in the midst of testing it :)
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=200157

[milesplume]

!!!!!!hey guys i did something to my celica and now she runs like a beauty without tune so all i did was take the greddy base map and load it on to my e-manage and then i put the jumpers to the oe air box setting and switched to 2 stage colder spark plugs and whala!!!! i think the main reason it made my celica run better is because the base map greddy sent is the base..the one that is on there already is the one tunned specially for the airnix system! so try this and tell me what u guys think...ooo and it does not bogg at all at low rpm's!!!

[elcelicagts]

hows the greddy sc so far- no complaints? is it trully worth it?

[milesplume]

it is worth every penney and more but i fixed the pre tunned bogging problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jlitman]

!!!!!!hey guys i did something to my celica and now she runs like a beauty without tune so all i did was take the greddy base map and load it on to my e-manage and then i put the jumpers to the oe air box setting and switched to 2 stage colder spark plugs and whala!!!! i think the main reason it made my celica run better is because the base map greddy sent is the base..the one that is on there already is the one tunned specially for the airnix system! so try this and tell me what u guys think...ooo and it does not bogg at all at low rpm's!!!

Hang on ... first of all, are you saying that you think the Greddy tunable map is different from the one that comes password-locked on the eManage? :wtf: That's news!

As to the sparkplugs, if you just reset your ECU when you pulled the plugs, couldn't that be the reason it's running more smoothly? :confused:

BTW: GReddy emailed me and said: "The Airinx kit will be a cold air type. It really works well with the supercharger." So if you had the switches set for arinix to begin with and have a CAI it shouldn't have been too far off...

[realredcelica]

is there an AIRinx system out for our car??? i looke dit up on greddy's website. i dont think i saw it.

[sbocaj55]

!!!!!!hey guys i did something to my celica and now she runs like a beauty without tune so all i did was take the greddy base map and load it on to my e-manage and then i put the jumpers to the oe air box setting and switched to 2 stage colder spark plugs and whala!!!! i think the main reason it made my celica run better is because the base map greddy sent is the base..the one that is on there already is the one tunned specially for the airnix system! so try this and tell me what u guys think...ooo and it does not bogg at all at low rpm's!!!

Didn't Korben007 or someone already post a while ago that running it on the stock intake setting is better anyway? And what brand and type of plugs did you get? Oh yeah and what intake you runnin? If I have time I really want to run it with my SRI on both settings, and then put the CAI on and run it on both settings, and see which is the best.

Also...GReddy says it is already preloaded with both maps for the stock intake and the airnx kit. So you're saying that the base map they email you is different than both of those?

[realredcelica]

^^^ i PMed korben007 about the use of an SRI with the Greddy S/C lastnight, and he told me that the new location for the cruise control unit is where the old airbox was, there fore gettin in the way of the SRI. though he said that it can be moved somewhere else, the are greddy chose was the easiest.

[milesplume]

yes the base map is the version they tunned for the airnix mostly even tho u can switch the jumpers...put it this way i have no cel thrown any more and i have driven the car for about 150 miles if u load the map they sent us and have it on the airnix jumper setting it still runs a little bad but not as bad as before but the oe jumper setting makes no cel thrown and since the car is running great! i am going to leave it that way until tunning which by the way i am going with diff people and it will for sure be tunned in 2 and a half weeks...the spark plugs are bosh super steel series

[milesplume]

andi can use a SRI on mine just fine because i have no cruise control because i am DBW so it is intigrated into the ecu!!!...nananan!

[ahnjae]

Has anyone of you guys verified how much boost this kit kicks out with a boost gauge?.......i just hooked up a boost gauge and its reading 6-7 psi.......i thought it was suppose to be at 8.5 psi? is it really true or do i have a vacuum leak cause ive checked everywhere.......

[jlitman]

is there an AIRinx system out for our car??? i looke dit up on greddy's website. i dont think i saw it.
Yes -- it's actually listed on their Japan site, but without a price. Hasn't been released yet, but it's existence has been confirmed from GReddy.
EDIT: http://www.trust-power.com/toyota/celica/gracer/airinx_b.html

Also, a panel type filter is listed http://www.trust-power.com/toyota/celica/gracer/airinx_II.html

...put it this way i have no cel thrown any more and i have driven the car for about 150 miles
Uh okay... I never had a CEL. I have the stock airbox so I've always had it set for that ... :confused:


Has anyone of you guys verified how much boost this kit kicks out with a boost gauge?.......i just hooked up a boost gauge and its reading 6-7 psi.......i thought it was suppose to be at 8.5 psi? is it really true or do i have a vacuum leak cause ive checked everywhere.......
I could swear that Korben also said it was putting out about 6 psi -- I think that psi is much more likely than 8+ given our high compression. Have you had it dynoed yet?

[SirCharlesC7]

Greedy's AIRinx system, can someone tell me how good this is?
Is it a cold air and is it better then what we curently have available?

[jlitman]

Greedy's AIRinx system, can someone tell me how good this is?
Is it a cold air and is it better then what we curently have available?

No idea if it's "better", though it is the one the S/C was tuned for. According to an email from GReddy (see a few posts up) it's a CAI. I specifically asked them if it was a SRI that is completely under the hood or CAI, which pipes air in from outside the car, and they said it was the latter ... Personally, I never felt comfortable using a CAI N/A, so I'd feel even less safe using one after the inclusion of FI...

[6speedGTS]

Has anyone of you guys verified how much boost this kit kicks out with a boost gauge?.......i just hooked up a boost gauge and its reading 6-7 psi.......i thought it was suppose to be at 8.5 psi? is it really true or do i have a vacuum leak cause ive checked everywhere.......

Unlike a turbo, a supercharger does not have the ability to adjust for altitude change, you might have to change pulley size. 8.5 psi might be at sea level, how high up are you?

[celicajonz]

good news miles!!! i was loosing hope in this thing.....

[ahnjae]

Has anyone of you guys verified how much boost this kit kicks out with a boost gauge?.......i just hooked up a boost gauge and its reading 6-7 psi.......i thought it was suppose to be at 8.5 psi? is it really true or do i have a vacuum leak cause ive checked everywhere.......

Unlike a turbo, a supercharger does not have the ability to adjust for altitude change, you might have to change pulley size. 8.5 psi might be at sea level, how high up are you?

yeah i live on the eastcoast in Northern VA so im not shure.......i guess 6-7 psi does sound about right.....weired thing is it usually hits 6 psi and then in 3rd gear i hit around 7-7.5 psi............i also bought a SRI from ebay (bomz intakes) so ill be running that instead of my AEM GEN 2 CAI because of the fact that the aem looks very restrictive with way too many bends....
Greedy's AIRinx system, can someone tell me how good this is?
Is it a cold air and is it better then what we curently have available?

No idea if it's "better", though it is the one the S/C was tuned for. According to an email from GReddy (see a few posts up) it's a CAI. I specifically asked them if it was a SRI that is completely under the hood or CAI, which pipes air in from outside the car, and they said it was the latter ... Personally, I never felt comfortable using a CAI N/A, so I'd feel even less safe using one after the inclusion of FI...

The airinx kit looks like a copy of the injen CAI just about.....so i dont think itll be that bad to run with the kit...im just not shure if the filter is good quality....personally i like the oiled filters......

[SirCharlesC7]

I'm not confident about the CAI on any car. I drive my car all year round and the SRI and CAI are not good for winter use (I've blown an engine cause of this a few years back). I am working on a short ram type of intake fully protected with a tube that would bring colder air to it. Kind of a stock air box but with bigger tubing.

[slvceli]

I'm not confident about the CAI on any car. I drive my car all year round and the SRI and CAI are not good for winter use (I've blown an engine cause of this a few years back).
:wtf: Explain what you're talking about.

[SirCharlesC7]

I had a 1997 Civic Si and that happend when the car had 125000km and 5 years old. He told me that these kind of filter are not adaped for winter use. He says the slush and snow that come in contact with the filter becomes water and endup in the engine. Whit the damage that was in my engine, he told me that was the cause. I had a SRI for about 3 years when that happend. Mayby I'm unlucky but I don't want this to happen again.

My goal is to have somehthing more effective then the stock air box but as safe. Basicly I want to change the oem tubing with 3'' tubing that starts were a CAI filter is located. I will also put in a TRD drop-in filter. Good idea?

[slvceli]

I had a 1997 Civic Si and that happend when the car had 125000km and 5 years old. He told me that these kind of filter are not adaped for winter use. He says the slush and snow that come in contact with the filter becomes water and endup in the engine. Whit the damage that was in my engine, he told me that was the cause. I had a SRI for about 3 years when that happend. Mayby I'm unlucky but I don't want this to happen again.
Somehow I doubt that slush and snow was the cause.

[SirCharlesC7]

Hey I'm no mecanic but I prefer to be carefull!

A civic engine isn't expensive, but a 2ZZ is something else.

Better safe then sorry!

Anyway it's eather that or a SRI for summer and the oem box for winter.

[milesplume]

um ya i have a cold air intake and no bypass valve and i have driven it all year around for 2 years and i think i am fine because i steer clear of big puddles and i dont race in the rain...

[SirCharlesC7]

And you don't have snow in Cali!

Lucky you!

[milesplume]

we had snow here a week ago...but that was the first in like 8 years lol!!

[SirCharlesC7]

Tell me you are joking man!!!

Did someone took any pics?

You just crushed my dream about Cali:wtc:

[slvceli]

Hey I'm no mecanic but I prefer to be carefull!

A civic engine isn't expensive, but a 2ZZ is something else.

Better safe then sorry!

Anyway it's eather that or a SRI for summer and the oem box for winter.
True. I put back on the stock airbox because of the possibility of hydrolock from rain (and low end power loss), but after driving through two winters with my intake I doubt it would have done anything. O well.

[jlitman]

True. I put back on the stock airbox because of the possibility of hydrolock from rain (and low end power loss), but after driving through two winters with my intake I doubt it would have done anything. O well.

Same here! I might consider an SRI, but I would rather not mess with anything else just yet, especially given that I still need a wee bit more tuning -- all in all it's running great, though!

Hey, man -- just curious as to what kind of panel filter you are using.

On a related note, do you (or anyone else) happen to know where I might find some tubing that is about the same length and width as the airbox snorkel? I'd like to add some ducting leading from the opening by the front grill to the snorkel.