Is Greddy S/C right for me?

[GTs_PuNk]

I've been searching the forums to try and find the info I'm looking for but cant find all the answers.

I have a 2000 gts

I'm trying to decide if the greddy s/c is will meet my requirments. I'd like about 225-230whp.

I already have a PFC which would make fine tuning possible, and I wouldnt have to worry about the stock ecu rejecting the e-manage.

I also have a bunch of other stuff done intake, header back, clutch, flywheel etc..

I'm also looking for reliablity. From what I've gathered the 2zz is sound at these numbers. So I hope not to have any problems. I have new valves and springs in the works, but is the nessesary with the s/c? I havent read about it causing any high rpm limitations; so are there any?

Would I need change out the pulley to be able to produce these numbers?
Would porting the head be nessesary?

[elcelicagts]

yes, with some bolt ons, and tunning.

[vegeta4ss]

read about all the random issues with pieces of the kit going out. Celicasaur had the alternator relocation bracket break, and stevefox and sbocaj55 have had boost issues because of a faulty acutator device. There's also the loose chip on the emanage but you wont have to deal with that if you have a PFC

If the chances of that happening to you doesn't outweigh how badly you want the kit then buy it. For me it was enough to turn me away from the kit. I have seen more trouble threads, than "running great" threads.

[lpphreakx06]

Also, dont expect the emange to work. I've read that they come defective quite often.

[elcelicagts]

greddy seems to be a good kit for the money. i would look into it for sure if you dont have a dbw and can use a pfc. as far as the bracket i only heard of one count of it failing.

[GTs_PuNk]

Are there any other problems that I should be aware of?

How about the rest of the motor being able to handle the power with out a problem? Am I right to say that its low enough that it can take it?

And would I need to change out the pulley to achive 230whp?

I'm going to pm stevefox and sbocaj55 to get more info their problems.

What about the valves a springs, still a good idea to change them out?

I really just looking for a way to make my car more powerful in the most economic way. Turbo kits are expensive and appear to be more to maintain. Staying N/A is what I'd rather do, but I dont see there being much of a chance of ever getting the car to be all that fast period.

[Gravel]

Are there any other problems that I should be aware of?

How about the rest of the motor being able to handle the power with out a problem? Am I right to say that its low enough that it can take it?

And would I need to change out the pulley to achive 230whp?

I'm going to pm stevefox and sbocaj55 to get more info their problems.

What about the valves a springs, still a good idea to change them out?

I really just looking for a way to make my car more powerful in the most economic way. Turbo kits are expensive and appear to be more to maintain. Staying N/A is what I'd rather do, but I dont see there being much of a chance of ever getting the car to be all that fast period.


Please don't imagine that the cost of the kit is all you need to worry about - F/I on a Gen 7 Celica is tricky and therefore expensive! If twice the cost of the Greddy s/c kit would put you off, walk away now - there is no gain without any financial pain!

I have been lucky enough to be one of 2 cars to have their alternator bracket fail (I think Monster Hui was the 2nd) - it is a pain in the a$$, but being rational about it, it's par for the course on a brand new kit design.

Don't get me wrong, the Greddy kit is great for the money, but it's not like having your Toyota dealer fit an upgrade - you are boldly going where not many have gone before - but IMHO the highs outweigh the lows :)

[GTs_PuNk]

What other financial issues are you talking about?

And will the power I'm looking for be there, or should I look at another option?

[Gravel]

What other financial issues are you talking about?

1) Tuning - don't assume that the default map is any good!

2) Gauges - you can run without them, but you won't know if anything goes wrong until something goes bang!

3) Petrol - probably not an issue in the US where it's cheaper than milk, but 25MPG at

[GTs_PuNk]

Thanks for the input.

Already planing on a/f guage. What others should I look in to?

[GTs_PuNk]

230whp is what i've seen as being the point before having to change internals. So seems resonable for this car.

Not looking for a 9sec car by any means, just a well rounded daily driver. I have alot invested in suspension since my main interest is autox. abit more power paired up with an lsd would go a long way.

[Gravel]

230whp is what i've seen as being the point before having to change internals.

And I think I would be happy with that.

I believe you can go way higher than 230WHP on stock internals - see the Monkeywrench threads - then again, they've been testing to destruction, rather than putting 50,000 miles on their high boost engines.

As for gauges, I'm probably not the best man to ask - I went a bit mad - boost, A/F, oil temp and oil pressure :)

[elcelicagts]

hmmm i think 300 and up you should change internals i think.

[Gravel]

hmmm i think 300 and up you should change internals i think.

I think on a 300 WHP 1200kg FWD car, changing your underwear would be more of a priority ;)

[GTs_PuNk]

Gravel have you dynoed your car? The reason i'm so pressed on finding out if these numbers are possible is so I'm fully aware of what I'm getting. If ppls numbers are not even close then I'll look at other options. I dont mind spending the time and the cash if its worth it.

[Gravel]

Gravel have you dynoed your car? The reason i'm so pressed on finding out if these numbers are possible is so I'm fully aware of what I'm getting. If ppls numbers are not even close then I'll look at other options. I dont mind spending the time and the cash if its worth it.

Yes, but UK dyno results are not really comparible as we tend to estimate crank figures. I got 229BHP on a dyno that seemed to measure everyone about 15-20HP low on the day - others have got 249BHP with the Greddy kit in the UK. Have a search - several people have done dynos.

Don't get hung up on numbers - it is a totally different beast with a s/c - it just pulls and pulls and pulls, whatever the revs :)

[jlitman]

I'd like about 225-230whp.
You will gain about 30% more power over whatever you are currently putting down on whatever dyno you use. Unless you are making 178 to the wheels on that particular dyno, you will not see 230 whp.


I havent read about it causing any high rpm limitations; so are there any?
None reported.


Would I need change out the pulley to be able to produce these numbers?
PM milesplume if you want a custom pulley.