Car Overheating, Help please!

[grett04]

Ok, so here is the deal, Driving home witht the air on, I look down and see the temp needle straight up and blinking. I pul the car over and loosen the coolant cap to hear the fluid pouring back in and boiling. THe car is really low. Since the only thing around was a quickie mart I got some water and dropped in in. Drove to NAPA bought some red coolant and mixed it with water and filled it to the full line. THe car makes it home. I notice there is a poop load of liquid stains on the hose that comes out of the resivor where it meets a metal dohickie, THe factory clamp is loose and moves back and forth with ease. This looks like the sources of the leak. I put a better tighter one on and refil the coolant. The wife is driving the car to work and it overheats again. No or very little coolant in the tank. The car wont even blow hot air out of the vents. Here is my problem. The car is at toyota now cause it is under warranty and it has an injen short ram intake on it. Are they gonna tell me that it isnt covered under warrany anymore because of the intake?

[Chui]

No. The intake cannot cause a coolant issue. It seems that you may have managed to pressurize your coolant system. I hope that's not the source of your troubles, whatever they may be. At any rate, Toyota will cure it for you. Sorry about your troubles.

[Maelfyn]

I once had a problem where the metal bar near the coolant reservoir actually sliced into a hose and it was leaking everywhere. I bought a single 8mm hose and replaced it myself. Bent the metal away a bit. Problem solved. I'm not sure if this is the same problem you were having?

[Raymund]

Good luck! I hope they take care of the matter as it sounds like a warranty job.

This is an all too familiar situation with the celicas cooling system. It requires a specific procedure to refill the coolant once it has been drained or the level is too low. If you look closely the engine block is actually higher than the radiator itself that is why normal filling of the coolant without elevating the reservoir above the engine is physically imposible *gravity*. Theres a specific way to go about it in the service manual. If the engine is at full operating temp and the fan turns on but blows cool air there isn't enough coolant regardless of what the reservoir level indicates. Theres usually bubbles that are trapped in the block that needs to be purged.

[Griffin]

Bah - the GTS is pretty easy. Jack the front end up and she burps like a baby. You want a challenge try bleeding the coolant system on an old MR2... Pack a lunch. :)

Griffin

[Raymund]

Bah - the GTS is pretty easy. Jack the front end up and she burps like a baby.

DOH!!! why didn't I think of that:bowdown: :bowdown:

[Griffin]

What also works is take a TALL funnel and jam it in the fill neck so its tight - then fill it pretty far up - that makes your funnel the highest point in the system... of course the jacking the fron up methos is faster and more reliable. - plus remember to run the heater to burp and bubbles out of there as well.

Griffin

[gts24]

Here's the most informative thread I have found about replacing the coolant in this car (GT-S) .
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10624&highlight=pcv+valve

I need to do it soon. However, here is what I am wondering. RedLine has a product called WaterWetter.
http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/images/ww-sm.jpg
I'm not sure if anyone has any experience with it, but IAM going to try it out.

I would like to know what procedure I'd need to use to do this. How to mix it etc. Anyone have any ideas?

[silcro2]

some people like to mix the water wetter with a gal of water an dump it in first than your anti-freeze, and the rest water. i would just make shure you place it in before the water so it all fits. have fun late

[Raymund]

using distiled water with the toyota coolant should be fine.

[VZV21]

One of the things is a huge no-no. Mixing coolants. Try to stick with Toyota red from the dealerships only (there are many different coolant formulations on the market, and they are not all compatible). So just stick with one.

If it's still leaking, get a leak analysis test (UV sensitive liquid is added to the coolant system) to determine the source(s) of the leak(s).

[Griffin]

Originally posted by gts24
Here's the most informative thread I have found about replacing the coolant in this car (GT-S) .
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10624&highlight=pcv+valve

I need to do it soon. However, here is what I am wondering. RedLine has a product called WaterWetter.
http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/images/ww-sm.jpg
I'm not sure if anyone has any experience with it, but IAM going to try it out.

I would like to know what procedure I'd need to use to do this. How to mix it etc. Anyone have any ideas?

This stuff is for use with water or glycol based coolants. Toyota's LLC is NOT a standard glycol based coolant - so you may wanna just stick to the factory stuff. Mixin it could be bad...

Griffin

[gts24]

Originally posted by Griffin


This stuff is for use with water or glycol based coolants. Toyota's LLC is NOT a standard glycol based coolant - so you may wanna just stick to the factory stuff. Mixin it could be bad...

Griffin


I see, thanks for the information.

[GTS LAID]

are we supposed to mix the factory stuff... i kept reading in the underhood sticker or the manual that we're supposed to mix the pink stuff...

anyway i just poured it down..

[Griffin]

Yeah the Coolant you buy at the dealer goes 1:1 with water.

Griffin

[GTS LAID]

whoops...

[Griffin]

Grins look at it this way - now you could probably leave your car in like negative 50 F without worrying too much. And I know you folks get weather that cold in NJ all the time right?

Grins

Griffin

[GTS LAID]

damn man its new jersey not new vascotia ... lol... had to play with the spelling a little..

no issues with viscosity differences?

[Raymund]

coolant:water ratio & boiling/freezing points

10%coolant:90%water = 213

[atehrani]

Since we have an all aluminum block should we use the coolants that prevent rusting?

[VZV21]

Aluminum doesn't really rust like the old iron blocks from in earlier Celicas.

[autxr]

Of course, what Raymund doesn't point out is that water has much better heat transfer properties than ethylene glycol. Your car may overheat with straight glycol much easier than without.

I don't care about boilover protection. If my cars coolant hits 212F then there is a problem, it should only be running at 185-190F.

Scott

[Humza]

i had this problem a while back. The exact same symptoms as your car had. It turned out that the thermometer in the engine bay broke loose and blocked the coolant (thats what toyota told me). They fixed it under warranty and luckily my engine was fine.

[Griffin]

Originally posted by atehrani
Since we have an all aluminum block should we use the coolants that prevent rusting?

Aluminum is cool - it cant rust. the surface layer can oxidize if exposed to air and thats just about it. It IS more susceptible to Galvanic corrosion though if you have loose grounds or whatnot.

Griffin

[Griffin]

Originally posted by GTS LAID
damn man its new jersey not new vascotia ... lol... had to play with the spelling a little..

no issues with viscosity differences?

yeah there are diferences in viscosity - technically the higher the proportion of coolant is the more horsepower the pump will sap (thicker fluid = harder to pump), but the Toyota stuff is so damn close to water viscosity wise it won't be a noticable difference. Its still not a good idea though. You should run at the reccomended ratios and only deviate if you operate in extremely low temp environments.

Grififn