speaker system suggestion...

[bomr2409]

so i just got a kicker comp vx sub and kicker 750.1 amp installed in my celi. absolutely pounds...sometimes though i think that my stock speakers just cant keep up with it. the rears especially will make really annoying vibrating sounds on certain songs and certain beats. my fronts do the same thing but not nearly as often. does this sound like a normal issue for a celica gts (premium sound system upgrade)? if so, would it make a big difference to get a new speaker system?

this is the setup that i have come up with:
Alpine MRP-F550 4 channel Amp (http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-F550)
Alpine SPR-17S components for the front (http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=SPR-17S)
Alpine SPR-17C rears (http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=SPR-17C)
Total price would be $418 shipped from a good source that I have...

what do you guys think i should do? i only want to spend money if it is going to make a big enough difference but at the same time i want my system to sound good after i just spent the money on my sub and amp...

[RekD0514]

Don't get the rears, just use the front component set. Trust me! :)

Also I would upgrade to the Alpine Type X comp set, because they have gotten good reviews!

[bomr2409]

Don't get the rears, just use the front component set. Trust me! :)

Really? But then how would I solve the vibrating problem that I am having with my rears?

[bomr2409]

ok...so i just talked to RekD0514 on AIM...i am just going to get front components...anyone got any suggestions? alpine type x's any good? jl audio XR650-CSi? any thoughts...?

[EuGeNiLe GTS]

Yea components up front! I absolutely hate those 2/3 way coaxs, especially up front. They are ok for rear speakers for rear fill, but dont spend too much money on rear speakers.

Some people in competition don't even use em.

Make sure you amp the components, and not use crappy deck power no matter how expensive your deck is, it probably puts out the same RMS as a cheap deck. Of course what is important is the rca output voltage.

What you can do if you want to save money, is just buy a 2 channel amp to power the front speakers, and just power the rear speakers with the deck. If the 4 channel amp you are buying is 50watt x 4 @ 4ohm, and its more expensive than say some other 2 channel amp that is 80-100watt x 2 @ 4ohm. I would consider it. Not only will you save some money, you will be giving more juice to your aftermarket speakers which probably demand it. The rear speakers can be powered by the deck, by the time you finish tweaking your amp for the front speakers, they will obviously over power the rear, leaving good rear fill, add the subs and you won't even notice you have rear speakers.... good thing you didn't spend too much money on the rear speakers now right ;)

[bomr2409]

great advice^^^

now i just need to decide on a set of components and then ill go from there...anyone out there got any suggestions?

[GTShondakilla]

I have JL Audio XR's all around. They sound really really good... they are just a little pricey.

[RekD0514]

If you need any more help just hit me up on AIM again. I am on audio forums as well as this forum, so I know a little more than the average car audio user on this site. :)

[SpikedCola]

If you can afford it, bi- or tri-amp your components. Youll be amazed at the quality difference between how they are normally amped, and when they are bi- or tri-amped.

[EuGeNiLe GTS]

What is the meaning of bi- and tri- amping?

[bomr2409]

^^yea...no idea what that is...

[SpikedCola]

Normally, when you amp a set of components, you get a (for example), 150x2 amp. One channel feeds the left crossover (which feeds the tweeter and woofer) and the other channel feeds the right crossover. In bi-amping, youd get a 300x4, and channel 1 would feed the left tweeter, channel 2 would feed the left woofer, channel 3 would feed the right tweeter, and channel 4 would feed the right woofer. In tri-amping, you need either a 150x2 and a 300x4 or a 400x6 to feed the left and right right tweeters, mids, and woofers. While it sounds like a lot of work (and it is), the component set will sound much better amped this way.

NB. The wattage ratings of the amps are just a generalization. You dont HAVE to have a 150x2, you could use a 200x2, etc.

[drpdmazda]

Normally, when you amp a set of components, you get a (for example), 150x2 amp. One channel feeds the left crossover (which feeds the tweeter and woofer) and the other channel feeds the right crossover. In bi-amping, youd get a 300x4, and channel 1 would feed the left tweeter, channel 2 would feed the left woofer, channel 3 would feed the right tweeter, and channel 4 would feed the right woofer. In tri-amping, you need either a 150x2 and a 300x4 or a 400x6 to feed the left and right right tweeters, mids, and woofers. While it sounds like a lot of work (and it is), the component set will sound much better amped this way.

NB. The wattage ratings of the amps are just a generalization. You dont HAVE to have a 150x2, you could use a 200x2, etc.


yeah its also called going active, its the best sound you can get, granted you have a good head unit putting out good voltage to the amps. whatever you do dont skimp out on the rear fill speakers, you will regret it later when the fronts overpower the rears, not to mention its a pain in the balls to put the rears in so you should do it right the first time

[RekD0514]

Normally, when you amp a set of components, you get a (for example), 150x2 amp. One channel feeds the left crossover (which feeds the tweeter and woofer) and the other channel feeds the right crossover. In bi-amping, youd get a 300x4, and channel 1 would feed the left tweeter, channel 2 would feed the left woofer, channel 3 would feed the right tweeter, and channel 4 would feed the right woofer. In tri-amping, you need either a 150x2 and a 300x4 or a 400x6 to feed the left and right right tweeters, mids, and woofers. While it sounds like a lot of work (and it is), the component set will sound much better amped this way.

NB. The wattage ratings of the amps are just a generalization. You dont HAVE to have a 150x2, you could use a 200x2, etc.


yeah its also called going active, its the best sound you can get, granted you have a good head unit putting out good voltage to the amps. whatever you do dont skimp out on the rear fill speakers, you will regret it later when the fronts overpower the rears, not to mention its a pain in the balls to put the rears in so you should do it right the first time


I think it's funny that you know what going active is, but you still use rear fill. haha

[EuGeNiLe GTS]

I think it's funny that you know what going active, but you still use rear fill. haha

lol, yea I was about to comment.

If I had known rear speakers are for rear fill only, and sometimes even not used, I would have skimped on them, and not have gotten a 4 channel amp, and just a 2 channel, of course I could bridge the 4 channel to make 2, but I'm lazy to rewire the rear speakers to be powered by the deck. Now that I think about it, its not that difficult, the leads are behind the deck, maybe when I'm lazy. Oh well. I can brag I have nice rear speakers that are hardly even heard. :)

[RekD0514]

At least you ended up getting a 4 channel instead of a 2 channel. It will be perfect if you switch to a 2 way active setup later. ;)