1600 amp to 1500 sub

[dubble]

if i ran a 1600watt amp audiobahn to a 1500 sub kicker s12L7 do you think ill blow it my friend says kickers can hang but i dont want to if it will blow. im leaning to the side that tells me it will blow but does anyone know for sure?

[SpikedCola]

What model of amp is it? For that matter, how many fuses & what value are they? I have a hard time believing its pushing 1600w RMS. Also, that sub is 1500w PEAK, its only meant to run around 750w RMS.

NEVER EVER EVER EVER use peak to compare things, or to see if an amp will power a sub.

[adalos]

probably the A1600V, which is listed at 1600@2 ohm or 800@4 ohms. as spike said, the MAX recommended RMS to the s12L7 is 750 watts. you wouldn't want to run 1600 RMS to that. 800 would probably be ok, but just because you have the extra power available from an amp doesn't mean you have to use it all.

[vin2490]

NEVER EVER EVER EVER use peak to compare things, or to see if an amp will power a sub.


why is that??

[adalos]

cuz peaks aren't accurate and are generally super exagerated. use RMS numbers for accurate contunuous power output info.

[SpikedCola]

Hang on. I did a big write up about it.

Peak =/= RMS. Peak should NEVER EVER EVER EVER be used to rate an amplifier. Peak is a measurement of the amplifiers maximum potential over about 1ms or less.


Just some simple math. Lets say the amp draws 20A and runs off 14.4v. According to P=V*I:

V=14.4v
I=20A
therefore P=288w

This 288w would be the amplifiers RMS rating - the most wattage it will normally produce. A manufacturer could claim a 1000w PEAK rating, and have it work, by doing the following:

V=50v
I=20A
P=1000w

Notice at the same amperage (they cant change the fuses in the amp to get a better rating), it puts out 1000w. However, the voltage must be increased to 50v! This will kill the amplifier almost instantly, but provide that 1000w for just long enough that they can prove it actually put out that much power.

In short, go by the RMS ratings of amplifiers (and make sure youre comparing at either a 4-ohm or 2-ohm load), NEVER by the peak rating.
Only thing I missed, and thanks to 2way for pointing it out, take your final P rating, and multiply by .6 if it's a class A/B amp, or .8 if it's a class D amp. A/B amps are only 60% efficient, D's are closer to 80%.

[dubble]

thanks for all the info and this is the place im gunna get it from. so i guess ill go 1 amp 2 subs? 800 each yeah?

the amp http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=A16000V

the sub
http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=06S12L72

[dubble]

Hang on. I did a big write up about it.

Peak =/= RMS. Peak should NEVER EVER EVER EVER be used to rate an amplifier. Peak is a measurement of the amplifiers maximum potential over about 1ms or less.


Just some simple math. Lets say the amp draws 20A and runs off 14.4v. According to P=V*I:

V=14.4v
I=20A
therefore P=288w

This 288w would be the amplifiers RMS rating - the most wattage it will normally produce. A manufacturer could claim a 1000w PEAK rating, and have it work, by doing the following:

V=50v
I=20A
P=1000w

Notice at the same amperage (they cant change the fuses in the amp to get a better rating), it puts out 1000w. However, the voltage must be increased to 50v! This will kill the amplifier almost instantly, but provide that 1000w for just long enough that they can prove it actually put out that much power.

In short, go by the RMS ratings of amplifiers (and make sure youre comparing at either a 4-ohm or 2-ohm load), NEVER by the peak rating.
Only thing I missed, and thanks to 2way for pointing it out, take your final P rating, and multiply by .6 if it's a class A/B amp, or .8 if it's a class D amp. A/B amps are only 60% efficient, D's are closer to 80%.


i just read this what would you suggest on a budget of 500 for an amp? sorry to sound like a noob but truth is i am to all this just barely getting in to it. so toss as much info at me as possible. thanks again

[xero]

That amp wont last a month......

[SpikedCola]

For that sub, Id grab a JL 500/1, since Im in love with JL's. You can pick them up on eBay for around 369ish, and they put out about 700-750w at full voltage, since theyre unregulated. Another one Id look at is the Clarion DPX1800. 800W x 1RMS [2Ω@14.4V ≤1% THD+N]

[imatunergts]

That amp wont last a month......

thats cause its audiobauhn and kicker

with my amp and subs i have them babies pushing max off my amp and subs are hitting hard after 3 yrs

[xero]

My x's are at mid gains and are hitting like a MOFO! but thats with Alpine stuff..If It were audiobahn amps well honestly I would go to walmart and pick one of those up. At least they last as long and are sooo much cheaper

[dubble]

whats a good brand amp i want the kickers because ive heard them before and i like so what do you have or would get for an amp?

[SpikedCola]

For that sub, Id grab a JL 500/1, since Im in love with JL's. You can pick them up on eBay for around 369ish, and they put out about 700-750w at full voltage, since theyre unregulated. Another one Id look at is the Clarion DPX1800. 800W x 1RMS [2Ω@14.4V ≤1% THD+N]
:o: