Tein Springs Installation Questions (noob)

[Saicho]

Hey all,

I've done some searching around here, but I still have a few questions regarding installing the tein springs. I want to do it myself (more satisfaction =) but I've never touched suspension so I'm a bit nervous and I want to take every precaution.

First of all, will a jack be sufficient holding up the bar while the shock is detatched to replace the spring? Both in the front and the rear? Do I need to support anything else?

Next, I've heard mention of the bolt holding the top of the shock that holds the compressed spring needs to be at a paricular torque. I see nothing of this in the paperwork that came with the springs, so does anyone have the value? Also, how would I measure the torque of that bolt?

From the looks of the paperwork I need do not need to cut the rear bump rubbers, but I need to cut the front ones by 0.6. Is this 0.6 inches? The paperwork is really vague =(

Another thing I'm worried about is keeping the alignment as correct as possible. Does anyone have tips on how to make sure of that?

Also, this is doesn't have an answer, but I was wondering if someone could give me a ballpark estimate on the life of the stock shocks after the spring replacement? I only drive on paved roads, although some are bumpy (never too fast on these though), I also bought the '03 new and I only have 24k miles on it. What type of symptoms will there be when they are shot, or close to it?

Sorry for the noob questions, and thanks in advance for reading. From what I've been reading, you guys seem to be a lot nicer and more helpful than most other forums =)

[kimGT]

its not safe to just have a jack there, get some jack stands, much cheaper than a hospital bill. i'm not sure about the top bolt but you can torque it with a torque wrench, you can set the amount and it clicks when you reach the correct torque spec. yeah i think they mean inches. as far as shock life, i can't say, its different for everyone but if the drop isn't too big you should be ok.

[Saicho]

I have stands for the sides of the car, I meant is a jack good enough to hold the bar when the car is lifted on the stands and the shock is seperated.

[kimGT]

wait what bar?

[JOHN_B]

I have stands for the sides of the car, I meant is a jack good enough to hold the bar when the car is lifted on the stands and the shock is seperated.


- Yes.. Always put jackstand everytime you work under the car.
- I think you need to cut like 2-3 inches off the bump stop.
- I believe they will last a little longer than stock. (it also depends on how you drive your car).
- Check the repair manual in the TECH INFO link above. I used an impact wrench to bolt'em back.
- You need to get an Alignment after. There's no way you can avoid this, unless you have tools to do it.

[Vroom_Vroom]

Ive installed a set of hotchkis springs on my friends celica and coilovers on a friends rsx and its no biggie. Do you have access to the miramar naval base?? If so thats where we went and we had access to a lift and all the air powered tools that you can think of. But if your going to do the install at home its still no biggie, its just going to take a tad bit longer (i would think 3 hours at the most). My other friend with a celica has teins on his celica and hes been riding on them for about 80-85000 miles (i think hes got 110k now) and his shocks still feel good, well mabey i shouldnt say good. But his shocks have trouble absorbing the big sharp bumps in the road. Its not as stiff as it used to be but its not terrible. Youll be fine putting the car on jackstands, I would probably only jack the front of the car up first and start from there. Dont torque the upper shock tower bolts as soon as you install them, toque them down when you lower the car (same with the lugnuts etc.) You will definitely need to get an alignment after spring install (wait about a week) so that you can let the springs settle in. I know the firestone in mira mesa has lifetime alignment for 140$ i believe. I cant tell you about the bump stops because I cant remember but I would think that you could leave the bumpstops alone, theyre just there to protect you from bottoming out and by cutting them it gives you more travel so cutting those are up to you. The rear camber is also adjustable but its only to an extent, my friend with the hotchkis springs bought their rear camber links so he had a better range but I think you'll be fine with the stock adjustments. Have fun with the installation of the rear springs! hahaha those are a bitch if your bushings are stiff on your control arms. Yea the top bolt of the shock needs to be at a particular torque and I dont remember off the top of my head what it is. Just PM me any more questions if you have any, but definitely be careful when taking the springs out of the shock assembly, dont kink or pull any brake lines because I believe theres a grommet or bolt that mounts them on the shock assembly.

[neological]

Also, this is doesn't have an answer, but I was wondering if someone could give me a ballpark estimate on the life of the stock shocks after the spring replacement? I only drive on paved roads, although some are bumpy (never too fast on these though), I also bought the '03 new and I only have 24k miles on it

Some people get a millionbajillion miles some people get a few hundred. So anecdotally you can't tell. Just remember it's easier to change the struts while you're doing the springs so installing the appropriate struts at this point might save a lot of time later.

What type of symptoms will there be when they are shot, or close to it?

The car will appear to float over surface changes. It's really noticeable small hills or undulations on the highway, the car will float and then bounce off of the bumpstops because you don't have any compression. also, listen for noises/clunking.

[lpphreakx06]

11ty billion on mines