Custom Turbo

[51EKA]

Hey,

Been planning to go turbo for quiet awhile now and started to slowing get parts for it. So far I have pfc, fmic, fuel pump, turbo lines, bov, boost gauge and a mr2 idler pulley. My car is a RHD 2zzge celica, therefore require to go custom route because no off-the-shelf kit fits and the ps needs to be removed because of overheating/fitment issues with rhd turbo.

Not sure if it's a good idea, but I'm planning to build the kit around the neukin manifold for several reason. One would be because of it tubular design to make optimum power. Two would be because the flange is in the center, therefore leaves abit more room to clear the steering rack. Three, it would be too hard to build a custom manifold with engine still in the car. My goal is for at least 250hp atw stock internal and pretty sure these will make that power level.

Part list are below:

Apexi PFC $823.00
GT3076R 0.63 $1,800.00
Hoses
ATP Turbo Accessories $250.00 -4 Size Oil Inlet Fitting GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor Oil Return Gasket - GT Series Aluminium - Oil Drain Flange (GT/T25) 14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines -3/8" Barb Drain Fitting - 5/8" Slip on Hose Oil Feed Line -4 - SS Braid 4ft
Stainless Steel fuel Tank Breather (boating supply)
Oil Pressure T-Fitting $25.00
RC 750cc Injector $500.00
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump $152.00
Neukin Manifold $1,100.00
Neukin 3" S/S dump $400.00
Turbosmart Blow Off Valve $100.00
Tial 44mm Wastegate $400.00
Intercooler 550x200x88 2.5" inlet/outlet $219.00
Intercooler Pipe 2.5" in - 3"out $1,000.00
3" Mandrel Bent Exhaust $500.00
Apexi Boost Gauge $120.00
Boost Controller $350.00
Tuning $600.00
Mr2 Idler Pulley + Bolts $105.00
Denso IK24 $100.00

Now the question is, have I got everything I need listed in that list. Is there anything I can improve on? Could i substitue anything and still make the same power for significantly cheaper? Any suggestions besides don't do it would be good.

At the moment, it is going to cost me au$9000 with the list of parts above. When i initially planned it to be around au$6000. Too late to back out now, but i still want to not go too overboard.

Thanks


Update 6th March 2008...

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3279/dsc00592wv2.jpg
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7138/dsc00590yi2.jpghttp://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3100/dsc00599lo2.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/8239/dsc00593vp9.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/9789/dsc00595of2.jpg
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1190/dsc00596oe3.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/3712/dsc00597uu0.jpg



Current list of parts sitting somewhere on my table so far...

Apexi PFC
Garrett GT3076R .63
ATP Turbo Accessories
4an Male fitting flare to 1/8" BSPT Male Fitting
8mm x 1.25 allen head bolt
5/8" Hose for Oil Drain (1mtr)
5/8" Clamp (2)
3/8" Heater Hose for Coolant (2mtr)
3/8" Clamp (2)
Vacuum Line (4mtr)
Vacuum T-Fitting
Stainless Steel fuel Tank Breather (boating supply)
Oil Pressure T-Fitting
MWR 630cc Injector
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
SF Manifold
Turbosmart Blow Off Valve
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Intercooler 550x200x88 2.5" inlet/outlet
Apexi Boost Gauge
Mr2 Idler Pulley + Bolts
Denso IK24
Tial Small Green (0.5Bar) WG Spring
Tial 38mm WG Valve Seat
Tial 38mm WG Gasket

[Jesse IL]

the ps needs to be removed because of overheating/fitment issues with rhd turbo.
Not true. You just have to orient the turbo so that the downpipe is on the left side of the car.

[51EKA]

I will be running the turbo just like seasidegraphics, but then the ps lines will make it harder to fit or run hoses for the air filter. However, I won't be removing the powersteering yet, it will be my last resort.

What other turbo and wastegate can I use to make same power on similar boost level? GT28RS/GT2871R/GT3071R?

[Boosted2.0]

Hmmm...

List looks pretty good. I would add a wideband O2 with gauge.

You will also need to add a return fitting on the oil pan, and an oil filter sandwich adapter makes tapping your oil feed much easier.

I assume your intercooler pipe pricing includes materials, fabrication, couplers clamps coatings etc?

You might also check the DIY turbo thread off the turbo FAQ if you havent already - it should give you an idea of what else you might need.

[blitzceli]

Not true. You just have to orient the turbo so that the downpipe is on the left side of the car. Thats easier said than done. Looking at the clip I have it will be a very very tight squeeze. You have the power steering in the way and the steering linkage. The only way I saw it fitting was a race style manifold, relocate the ecu and battery to make the manifold fit then you can run the piping. Main reason I sold my kit was due to it wont fit with rhd celicas with the near impossible task of editing the kit, I probably would have killed myself before it was over with. I say save yourself the head ache of messy piping and get a rotrex. It is capable of making the same amount of power as a turbo, and you will achieve the 250whp very easy on the unit.

[Jesse IL]

The issue of the turbo installation on the other RHD car was that the downpipe was coming out on the right side of the car and all the heat from the downpipe was overheating things. So there's obviously space over there.

[blitzceli]

The issue of the turbo installation on the other RHD car was that the downpipe was coming out on the right side of the car and all the heat from the downpipe was overheating things. So there's obviously space over there.
Yea that was one of the problems, but the linkage cuts right where the lower of the turbo would be sitting (on the s kitf atleast). Im sure it could be done, but its alot of headaches trying to weave around the linkage. My concern was there would have to be some moderatly sharpe turns to clear the linkage, and that would restrict flow. If the turbo is flipped to house the dp on the other side you would still be dealing with the issue of making the dp clear the linkage. It was too many issues to deal with imo.

[51EKA]

Thats easier said than done. Looking at the clip I have it will be a very very tight squeeze. You have the power steering in the way and the steering linkage. The only way I saw it fitting was a race style manifold, relocate the ecu and battery to make the manifold fit then you can run the piping. Main reason I sold my kit was due to it wont fit with rhd celicas with the near impossible task of editing the kit, I probably would have killed myself before it was over with. I say save yourself the head ache of messy piping and get a rotrex. It is capable of making the same amount of power as a turbo, and you will achieve the 250whp very easy on the unit.

Unfortunately, rotrex won't make that power. If it did, I would have taken that route already.

So what about turbo sizing?

[Rcelicagts]

neukin maifold cost me only $700, it's been hard to put an air filter, I am going to have to take cold side of turbo cut/weld an elbow for filter

[blitzceli]

Unfortunately, rotrex won't make that power. If it did, I would have taken that route already.

So what about turbo sizing? I dont know who told you that but dynos are proving otherwise. 280whp on the mr2 2zz... and still room for more.

[Jesse IL]

The issue of the turbo installation on the other RHD car was that the downpipe was coming out on the right side of the car and all the heat from the downpipe was overheating things. So there's obviously space over there.
Yea that was one of the problems, but the linkage cuts right where the lower of the turbo would be sitting (on the s kitf atleast). Im sure it could be done, but its alot of headaches trying to weave around the linkage. My concern was there would have to be some moderatly sharpe turns to clear the linkage, and that would restrict flow. If the turbo is flipped to house the dp on the other side you would still be dealing with the issue of making the dp clear the linkage. It was too many issues to deal with imo.

Take a look at my XS kit. I even modified the downpipe to do a semi-divorced wastegate:

http://users.ameritech.net/trdcelica/downpipe-1.jpg

http://users.ameritech.net/trdcelica/downpipe-2.jpg

http://users.ameritech.net/trdcelica/downpipe-3.jpg

Now what you'll see is that this downpipe extension actually interfered with the rear motor mount, so I had to cut it down by about 1/2" for clearance. You can see the end of the LHD steering column sticking down just below my wrist. At least on this side, there would be no fitment issues RHD.

http://users.ameritech.net/trdcelica/downpipe-4.jpg

Now in the final pic you can see the whole deal in place with the air filter mounted directly onto the compressor. Now it is a bitch with those power steering lines to get them around the air filter, but even with the steering column hanging down on that side, I'd still venture a guess that my setup would fit on a RHD car. You can even see the shift cables coming out above the downpipe in this pic.

http://users.ameritech.net/trdcelica/downpipe-5.jpg

[blitzceli]

I still think the linkage will interfere especially when the motor pivots. We had a friends car jacked up b/c the coupler on the turbo kept sliding off (sf kit). Before hand I looked at the linkage on the rhd clip just to see if id run into issues. Just one look and I could tell I was goning to have fitment issues. The linkage on the rhd would have went right where the charge pipe was comming off the turbo. The linkage on the rhd goes out and down then it links to another rod, then slants left and downward more to connect.

Keep in mind where the motor sits in the car with respect to where the steering is on each car. When looking at the engine bay standing in front of the car... the linkage isnt an issue on the LHD because the motor is on the left side of the engine bay and the linkage is on the right slanting down to connect in the center or close to it. Where as on a RHD the motor is on the left side as well as the linkage and slants down to connect . It is hard for me to explain b/c I dont have pictures of behind the motor to point out where I saw fitment problems occuring.

How do the xs, sf or nuekin compare in size/length? With a shorter manifold than the sf it would have fit, something like smaays replacement manifold for hass kit. Im not saying you cant put a turbo kit on a rhd celica, but a supercharger would be an easier way to go FI without any headaches of fitment issue.

[51EKA]

No s/c, simple as that. I don't care what potential a rotrex s/c has. It's like telling jiltman to go auto. No, it's either turbo, or i'll sell the parts and go high comp stroker or trd pistons + cams + valve + pnp if turbo becomes anymore expensive.

Here's a pic of what i need to work with.

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/2109/dsc00361smallmu1.jpg

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/6290/dsc00371smallfz7.jpg

[Boosted2.0]

I would get the tubine housing & DP ceramic coated and put heat shields on them in your shoes.

[Rombomb420]

It's like telling jiltman to go auto

uhhh... :gap:


Personally for the amount of cash you are spending & the power goals you are looking for it seems silly not to get a rotrex. Also based on the fact you'd consider N/a, which is the feel a s/c emulates, a strong N/a car...

No matter what good luck man. I just hope I don't end up shelling out that kind of cash once it's all over with... :bang:

[The__J__Factor]

lol he wont go rotrex coz of me ;)

and he really wants the turbo, so hopefully we can get a few more ideas from you guys and help him get started, will be the 1st turbo celica i get to drive :)

[51EKA]

uhhh... :gap:


Personally for the amount of cash you are spending & the power goals you are looking for it seems silly not to get a rotrex. Also based on the fact you'd consider N/a, which is the feel a s/c emulates, a strong N/a car...

No matter what good luck man. I just hope I don't end up shelling out that kind of cash once it's all over with... :bang:

My initial goal is 250hp stock internals on a dyno dynamic dyno in australia. Currently putting 151.xxhp atw. Roughly 280-290hp on dyno in usa. With a built engine, i would want alot more power than what rotrex will put out.

It's full built na or turbo. End of story. Please, i'm pretty sick of hearing people go do this do that when i specifically ask a turbo question.

[Jesse IL]

I still think the linkage will interfere especially when the motor pivots.
I'll have to take your word for this but it makes absolutely no sense. The steering rack is the only real difference. The motor and trans are the same, the mounts are in the same location, the trans is in the same location. So why would the shift cables go in a different way? There's no need for all sorts of crazy linkage. They just stick out over the top of the trans.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/2109/dsc00361smallmu1.jpg

What I have would definitely fit here. See that rubber part of the power steering hose? That's right where my air filter is. You need to sort of bend that hose out of the way a bit to make it fit. I'll see if I can get a pic of it today.

[blitzceli]

I'll have to take your word for this but it makes absolutely no sense. The steering rack is the only real difference. The motor and trans are the same, the mounts are in the same location, the trans is in the same location. So why would the shift cables go in a different way? There's no need for all sorts of crazy linkage. They just stick out over the top of the trans.

What I have would definitely fit here. See that rubber part of the power steering hose? That's right where my air filter is. You need to sort of bend that hose out of the way a bit to make it fit. I'll see if I can get a pic of it today.Yes I know, I didnt believe it myself until after I looked. Im talking about the steering linkage, the shift linkage is in the same place. Basically everything the same except the fire wall is a mirror image

But a short manifold is a must inorder to fit.

[Jesse IL]

I think part of the problem here is that you're mis-using the word "linkage". There is no linkage in the steering unless you're talking about the various hardlines coming off it for fluid.

Here's a pic of the LHD rack showing how the steering column connects as well as some of the hardlines coming off of it.

http://users.ameritech.net/trdcelica/turboinstall.jpg

[Smaay]

holy crap jesse, why is your car all apart?

[Jesse IL]

That's a really old picture.

[51EKA]

Ok... update. I'm just nearly ready to start the project going. The parts isn't exactly the same as what was posted earlier. Parts sitting in my room are:

Apexi PFC
GT3076R 0.63
ATP Turbo Accessories
-4 Size Oil Inlet Fitting GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor
Oil Return Gasket - GT Series
Aluminium - Oil Drain Flange (GT/T25)
14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines -3/8" Barb
Drain Fitting - 5/8" Slip on Hose
Oil Feed Line -4 - SS Braid 4ft
4an (1/4 jic) Male fitting flare to 1/8" BSPT Male Fitting
8mm x 1.25 allen head bolt
5/8" Hose for Oil Drain (1mtr)
5/8" Clamp (2)
3/8" Heater Hose for Coolant (2mtr)
3/8" Clamp (2)
Vacuum Line (4mtr)
Vacuum T-Fitting
Stainless Steel fuel Tank Breather (boating supply)
Oil Pressure T-Fitting
MWR 630cc Injector
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
SF Manifold
Turbosmart Blow Off Valve
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Intercooler 550x200x88 2.5" inlet/outlet
Apexi Boost Gauge
Boost Controller
Mr2 Idler Pulley + Bolts (Backup plan)
Denso IK24
Tial Small Green (0.5Bar) WG Spring
Tial 38mm WG Valve Seat
Tial 38mm WG Gasket


Now all I need to do is get a workshop and tow truck ready to get my intercooler, exhaust and tuning done once I begin the install.

Now my question is...

2. What do you use to plug up the pcv hose on the intake manifold? Looking around i cant' find anything that size.

3. When running the coolant lines to the turbo off the throttle body "heating thingy" (currently bypassed) do i need to keep the "restrictor" in place or can i remove it completely?

4. And is 3/8" coolant hose too big?

5. Am i missing anything besides wideband 02, or any problems you can think of?

Thanks

I'll get pictures of the parts up asap.

[51EKA]

Bump.. New pics up...

Now i got a problem, it looks like the dump pipe will interfer with the wastegate banjo fitting at the bottom. Will it be the same with turbosmart wastegate?

[xoom]

not to sure about the wastegate jimmy but given the orientation of ur setup although u've made life easier for the dump pipe how the f@#k r u gonna sort out the air filter and piping from the compressor housing ? u gonna bolt a pod onto the edge of the turbo and have and piping go up over the wastegate and manifold ?

[SILVABULLIT]

Jimmy give CES a call and get them to do it. They have done a Corolla Sportivo(2zz powered) turbo set up that was awesome!! Made 259.3kw atw and was beastly to drive. Don't stuff around with people who claim it may work go to someone who will make it work man!! They did the whole job(built the engine and all custom work) but didn't stuff around with the power FC. They run an Autronic ECU which worked really well but obviously more expensive but also has more tunable abilities.

[51EKA]

Silvabullit... But i can't afford to put my car at CES. There's a difference when someone else pays to do the work for your car and paying to get it done yourself. And there are plenty of places that are capable of doing the same thing CES have done. They've only done one turbo'd corolla. They experimented just like everyone else.. CES is good.. But lets not go there... :P

Xoom... The air filter most probably have to go on the end of the turbo with a shield on it. The intercooler piping will wrap down below the steering rack and around the oil pan. I dont' have the morroso oil pan like you do. So it should just work.