End Link Headache

[CalPencil]

Everyone has the same problem, so I won't repeat it again. But I just saw some pictures online here showing some guy taking an impact wrench to the endlinks. I thought the only way to get it off is using the allen wrench and turning method...just hoping that you won't strip anything.

By the way, I stopped trying to replace the suspension after one end link... I ordered one at the store. Should I order extras...they get pretty expensive when you buy all four of them....

[Barabaika]

You should try to soak the threads for a day or two using Liguid Wrench Penetrating Oil or a similar product.
http://images.acehardwareoutlet.com/Products/10713_20070602_ar.jpg

[MicaCeli]

Make sure that you have the allen wrench in there all the way. Get all the gunk and rust out of the hole before you put it in (this applies to every day life also :chuckles: )

[reguile]

Make sure that you have the allen wrench in there all the way. Get all the gunk and rust out of the hole before you put it in (this applies to every day life also :chuckles: )

Nice. You deserve a high five for that one!... Idk what kind of holes you'd be putting it in.. a dish washer?

well CalPencil.. idk what you are trying to ask? Is your endlink stuck on? If so, taking a chainsaw would be the safest route on removing it..jk but that bara guy got the right idea if your endlink is stuck.

[CalPencil]

Has anyone successfully reused the old stuff when upgrading their suspension?

[vin2490]

yess...i changed my springs a month ago and what i did was i sprayed it with rust penetrant and then i grabbed the allen key and hit it with a wrench so that it was all teh way in as explained befor then i turned slowly and i got it off.

[JOHN_B]

Has anyone successfully reused the old stuff when upgrading their suspension?


I did my friend and mine, and reused the endlinks. The way I take mine is lock or clip the rubber behind the nut with a Adjustable wrench the smallest one you can get and impact the bolt or use regular socket wrench then your done.

[reguile]

I think you can use it w/ the hotchkis springs, cause they lower it to a point where your endlinks wont clunk.. IDK about any other springs.. and as for sway bars, I think you should change them out.
I'm waiting for PowerGrid to come back in stock w/ the rear endlinks and I am praying that'll stop the clunks.. if not (which I HIGHLY doubt), I'll bring it to a mechanic.. or I should probably bring it in to the mechanics before that, huh? But I am pretty sure its the endlink so I'll take the gamble... ramble ramble.

[JOHN_B]

^^.. What kind of struts are you running?

Stock endlinks is fine with Hotchkis and rear ST bars. I have them.

[reguile]

I'm running KW Coil overs.. biatch! Man it feels good saying that :) No offense on the biatch part

[JOHN_B]

lol.. Nice.. Where did you get your sets at? I'm wanting to replace mine before the track season starts.

[reguile]

autoanything.com ... but you may run into alot of headaches if they send you the wrong rear ones..

[CalPencil]

I did my friend and mine, and reused the endlinks. The way I take mine is lock or clip the rubber behind the nut with a Adjustable wrench the smallest one you can get and impact the bolt or use regular socket wrench then your done.

Clip the rubber? When I did this, oil came out of it because I broke the seal. Those things are packed with lube inside, so it didn't work out. It looks like I'll have to cut off that back left side, but I'm sure I'll find myself into the same problem on the right rear. That's why I was asking this question to you guys to see how I can get it off without damaging it.

Liquid wrench helped, it moved the nut... but when it came to the end of the bolt, it would come off and that's when everything started stripping.

[JOHN_B]

I did my friend and mine, and reused the endlinks. The way I take mine is lock or clip the rubber behind the nut with a Adjustable wrench the smallest one you can get and impact the bolt or use regular socket wrench then your done.

Clip the rubber? When I did this, oil came out of it because I broke the seal. Those things are packed with lube inside, so it didn't work out. It looks like I'll have to cut off that back left side, but I'm sure I'll find myself into the same problem on the right rear. That's why I was asking this question to you guys to see how I can get it off without damaging it.

Liquid wrench helped, it moved the nut... but when it came to the end of the bolt, it would come off and that's when everything started stripping.


I'll get some pics.. Impact would help if you have one, b/c it would just unscrew straight fast without stripping the thread.

[Booster1]

I was trying to change my spring with a lowering spring starting at the rear suspension. I had all the tools I needed,no power tools just regular. When I came across with this nut it was so damn hard to unwind, it was super tight. I might try that product today. I hope it will work out. Thanks for posting that..




http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9093/wrenchcq0.jpg

[JOHN_B]

FYI. Always unscrew the nut and not the bolt... If either doesn't work.. Get a socket wrench (or Breaker bar) and attach a 4 or 5 foot tube or pipe that would fit around the wrench, that would give enough leverage to get that nut out.

[deltaB]

Step 1 any time messing with endlinks:
http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/medium/14327BP-Blaster-Soak548.JPG

I replaced my struts and shocks in 2006. After the PB-Blaster, i used a combination wrench to turn the nut counter-clockwise. Only after it was really free did I use the allen wrench. That way I didn't need much force from the 5mm allen so it wouldn't strip out.
ΔB

[Booster1]

FYI. Always unscrew the nut and not the bolt... If either doesn't work.. Get a socket wrench (or Breaker bar) and attach a 4 or 5 foot tube or pipe that would fit around the wrench, that would give enough leverage to get that nut out.


I did that on my 93 celica, I had like a 3 ft steel tubbing and then I put it in on the wrench to get more leverage. My dad is letting me borrow some of his tools and I hope I'll be done before end of the day. 7th generation celica is harder to work with comparing with 93 celica, too many parts. So how long do you think you can finish if you had to do it on your own?

[slidr]

I don't mess around with those bolts with the allen wrench hole inside the way Toyota wants the general masses to.

I take an impact wrench to it and stick it to the man.

[JOHN_B]

FYI. Always unscrew the nut and not the bolt... If either doesn't work.. Get a socket wrench (or Breaker bar) and attach a 4 or 5 foot tube or pipe that would fit around the wrench, that would give enough leverage to get that nut out.


I did that on my 93 celica, I had like a 3 ft steel tubbing and then I put it in on the wrench to get more leverage. My dad is letting me borrow some of his tools and I hope I'll be done before end of the day. 7th generation celica is harder to work with comparing with 93 celica, too many parts. So how long do you think you can finish if you had to do it on your own?


First time.. It took me 3 hours, b/c of the bolts and I didn't have the right tools at the time. Now I can do it in 2 hours max.

[Booster1]

First time.. It took me 3 hours, b/c of the bolts and I didn't have the right tools at the time. Now I can do it in 2 hours max.


93 celica took me 4 hours. First time I did I had to use the spring compressor just in case it pop out.lols I'll try if I can go under 3 hours. I just spayed the nut I hope in the morning it's loose.I can't wait to see that low profile look. It's going to be 2.0 front and 2.4 rear. almost similar to eibach sportline springs. I saved money by getting the cheap one from ebay lols.. :gap:

[CalPencil]

So you guys are saying that you can just an impact wrench to the part, without holding it in any way...and then it'll torque off? I didn't try it, because I thought it would spin in place and it might damage the endlink. Aren't they packed with oil?

[JOHN_B]

First time.. It took me 3 hours, b/c of the bolts and I didn't have the right tools at the time. Now I can do it in 2 hours max.


93 celica took me 4 hours. First time I did I had to use the spring compressor just in case it pop out.lols I'll try if I can go under 3 hours. I just spayed the nut I hope in the morning it's loose.I can't wait to see that low profile look. It's going to be 2.0 front and 2.4 rear. almost similar to eibach sportline springs. I saved money by getting the cheap one from ebay lols.. :gap:


lol nice..Another trick removing the spring from the strut.
1. Place it on the ground with the front bolt facing away from you. -
2. Step at the end of the strut.
3. Then reach with your other hand with an Impact wrench.
I don't recommend using this way with a hand tool. I used a 10 pounds Electric impact wrench (Constant 250lb tq compare to a air compressor one)

Remember if you have an impact wrench to remove the endlink nut. Make sure to lock the back side of that nut with a small vise Grip that can fit. (Usually you would put a Hex on that small hole then an Open wrench to un-screw.)

Replace your struts too, or wait till you get one if you don't have one.. It would clunk on small bumps once the struts is dead.

[JOHN_B]

So you guys are saying that you can just an impact wrench to the part, without holding it in any way...and then it'll torque off? I didn't try it, because I thought it would spin in place and it might damage the endlink. Aren't they packed with oil?


Lock the back side with a Vise grip. ^^ read my post I just posted.

[Booster1]

Shoot I can't sleep. All I'm thinking about is working on my car and change the springs. I wonder how it'll look like? I can't wait..

[JOHN_B]

Shoot I can't sleep. All I'm thinking about is working on my car and change the springs. I wonder how it'll look like? I can't wait..


haha it would look nice. You may have to get a Chamber in the back... I wish its 60 or 70 degrees here in MI.. Its a pain working in the cold.

[CalPencil]

I read the post, but you didn't read mine. I tried doing that, but I ended up grabbing onto the rubber and then oil came out of it. I think I broke it doing it your method.

[JOHN_B]

I read the post, but you didn't read mine. I tried doing that, but I ended up grabbing onto the rubber and then oil came out of it. I think I broke it doing it your method.


That rubber piece is not sealed.. Well just to keep water away.. Its greased. So, I don't see it being damage.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i180/swyn/misc/IMG_4351.jpg

See that black rubber. It goes like this

Nut l Sway l Rubber piece----Endlink.

[Barabaika]

When I came across with this nut it was so damn hard to unwind, it was super tight.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9093/wrenchcq0.jpg

Go to Autozone and buy a 24" breaker bar and a longer 19mm 6 point (it's stronger than 12 point) socket; also, you can buy a longer 17mm socket for the upper bolts. If you have short sockets, you won't be able to reach the nuts because of the long bolts that stick out of the nuts.

http://www.autozone.com/images/products/grn/grn38002003.jpg

[Booster1]

haha it would look nice. You may have to get a Chamber in the back... I wish its 60 or 70 degrees here in MI.. Its a pain working in the cold.


I don't have any camber kit just the stock. I don't it's necessary. I remember I change my spring on my 93 celica and it was doing fine. I had no problem.Damn it's cold out side and I'm ready to go. That will warm me up. Thanks for the tips..

[JOHN_B]

haha it would look nice. You may have to get a Chamber in the back... I wish its 60 or 70 degrees here in MI.. Its a pain working in the cold.


I don't have any camber kit just the stock. I don't it's necessary. I remember I change my spring on my 93 celica and it was doing fine. I had no problem.Damn it's cold out side and I'm ready to go. That will warm me up. Thanks for the tips..



Wait are you doing it on the 00 Celi or another 93?... Anything below TEIN S-tech and Hotchiss, it needs a chamber. Sportline is way down there. Just letting you know.
Good luck!..

[Booster1]

Wait are you doing it on the 00 Celi or another 93?... Anything below TEIN S-tech and Hotchiss, it needs a chamber. Sportline is way down there. Just letting you know.
Good luck!..


Guess what? I installed the lowering spring at the rear suspension it looks higher than the stock spring. So I was like wtf? But I compared the two springs the new one is shorter 2.4 inches shorter and the stock is 2.4inches taller. It just doesn't make any sense. I was working on my 2001 celica gts. I put everything back with wheel and I expected to see the low profile look but it went higher lols like an offroader some sh*t. Before I installed the new spring, I pushed the shocks all the way at the bottom. I installed that springs 3 times shoot I'm so tired right now and I'm really pissed off too.What a waste of time.Do I have to change anymore parts besides the springs?

[RevvinKevin]

did you seat the springs correctly? give it about a week to settle in. Im installing springs on my 02 celica gts as well, i got the front 2 on with no problems, but i cant seem to get the rear strut out! im stuck at the same bolt/nut you were having trouble with, what did you do to get that sucker off? i used an impact wrench and gave it about 250 ft/lbs of hell and it still didnt budge, any tips would be great :]
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9093/wrenchcq0.jpg[/QUOTE]

[JOHN_B]

Wait are you doing it on the 00 Celi or another 93?... Anything below TEIN S-tech and Hotchiss, it needs a chamber. Sportline is way down there. Just letting you know.
Good luck!..


Guess what? I installed the lowering spring at the rear suspension it looks higher than the stock spring. So I was like wtf? But I compared the two springs the new one is shorter 2.4 inches shorter and the stock is 2.4inches taller. It just doesn't make any sense. I was working on my 2001 celica gts. I put everything back with wheel and I expected to see the low profile look but it went higher lols like an offroader some sh*t. Before I installed the new spring, I pushed the shocks all the way at the bottom. I installed that springs 3 times shoot I'm so tired right now and I'm really pissed off too.What a waste of time.Do I have to change anymore parts besides the springs?


Let it settle. It will drop like crazy. My hotckiss was the same as stock when I installed it. It takes about a full month for the spring to completely settles. You'll start to see a little difference in a week or so.

[Booster1]

Let it settle. It will drop like crazy. My hotckiss was the same as stock when I installed it. It takes about a full month for the spring to completely settles. You'll start to see a little difference in a week or so.


I was in the back of my car jumping like crazy. I was like f*ck go down. And there was a guy with black celica looking at me like a crazy muthaFka.lols you sure it will go down in days? Damn my dad took his tools back dammt lols.I'll try that again later my body's aching like hell. But you sure it will settle down in day or two? But how come on my 93 celica went down right after I installed the springs. Do I have to take out that yellow foam inside the shocks?

[JOHN_B]

The yellow foam thing is the bump stop. Your suppose to cut that in specification. Yea just wait for a few weeks, it will bump down. Are you sure its the sportline you have not the Pro-kit?. Sportline I think is Red, Pro-kit (TRD) is Black.

[Booster1]

The yellow foam thing is the bump stop. Your suppose to cut that in specification. Yea just wait for a few weeks, it will bump down. Are you sure its the sportline you have not the Pro-kit?. Sportline I think is Red, Pro-kit (TRD) is Black.


I have a lowering springs called dropzone. Car drops at 2.0front and 2.4 rear or 2.0 rear. Almost the same as sportline..Are sure I have to cut that yellow foam or bump stop? is it ok if I leave it? By the way, the l gunk spray really works it was easy to unbolt the parts, thanks..

[JOHN_B]

yup yup... Yea you need to cut that bump stop. When you hit a bump it would slam your strut really fast. instead of having this much space l-----l - you have this l--l

[Booster1]

yup yup... Yea you need to cut that bump stop. When you hit a bump it would slam your strut really fast. instead of having this much space l-----l - you have this l--l


Some people told me to let it rest and it'll go down in few days. But did you cut your bump stop. I don't like doing rework waste of time. How far should I cut it?

[JOHN_B]

umm. That I'm not sure how much to cut. But for my Hotchkiss I think I left about 2.25 inches? I forgot.

[Booster1]

umm. That I'm not sure how much to cut. But for my Hotchkiss I think I left about 2.25 inches? I forgot.

what if I remove the whole foam? and leave the washer.is that going to be ok?

[CalPencil]

I think you asked what I'm doing. I'm a Tein S Techs with a Tokico Strut. I had to buy one endlink because I messed it up. I'd like to replace the other side too, just to match...but I'm going to try to save that one so I don't need to pay $44 again.

I'll cut 1/3 of the bump stop off to allow for more suspension play. I'll give it about a week for the springs to settle in...and there is a bumpy road near PCH that I'll take my car down to accelerate the settling.

I looked, and the alignment nut for the rear is pretty rusty...so I'll go to Pep Boys later, who will use a digital meter to align it properly. No skipping any money there. I was thinking about getting new tires...but, it'll give me more time to save money on the rest of these tires to save up for new wheels and tires in the future.

So... that's what I'm doing. Hopefully it'll give me that drop I'm looking for. This sounds funny, but this gives me the chance to wash the dust behind the plastics that built up over the life of this vehicle. I like a clean car...and washing any dust of any kind will surely keep the air cleaner in the cabin too.

[Booster1]

I think you asked what I'm doing. I'm a Tein S Techs with a Tokico Strut. I had to buy one endlink because I messed it up. I'd like to replace the other side too, just to match...but I'm going to try to save that one so I don't need to pay $44 again.

I'll cut 1/3 of the bump stop off to allow for more suspension play. I'll give it about a week for the springs to settle in...and there is a bumpy road near PCH that I'll take my car down to accelerate the settling.

I looked, and the alignment nut for the rear is pretty rusty...so I'll go to Pep Boys later, who will use a digital meter to align it properly. No skipping any money there. I was thinking about getting new tires...but, it'll give me more time to save money on the rest of these tires to save up for new wheels and tires in the future.

So... that's what I'm doing. Hopefully it'll give me that drop I'm looking for. This sounds funny, but this gives me the chance to wash the dust behind the plastics that built up over the life of this vehicle. I like a clean car...and washing any dust of any kind will surely keep the air cleaner in the cabin too.



Any rusted bolts or nuts, you can spray it with gunk to remove the rust. I tried on mine and they looked ok.

[CalPencil]

I just did the right wheel, and I was being more careful as I was turning it. I was using a hammer to tap the allen wrench in each time I turned it, and even used my jack next to the piece so that the allen key wouldn't turn. Everything looked fine and started to get more and more difficult as I went down the bolt... then it happened.

The entire bolt broke. I couldn't believe how rusty and weak this component was...all I have to say it wow...

[Booster1]

I just did the right wheel, and I was being more careful as I was turning it. I was using a hammer to tap the allen wrench in each time I turned it, and even used my jack next to the piece so that the allen key wouldn't turn. Everything looked fine and started to get more and more difficult as I went down the bolt... then it happened.

The entire bolt broke. I couldn't believe how rusty and weak this component was...all I have to say it wow...


Is it for the front or rear? Yesterday when I was working on the front part it was easy to remove, but putting them back is so hard because of that rod with those bolts they are very long.And it's not easy pushing them back in so what I did I used my spring compressor to compressed the the lower bar so that rod goes down and I was able to place the bolts back to it's place. I wanted to take a picture but my hands were so greasy.If you're using any compressor tool you can brake those bolts.

[Booster1]

JohnB posted the picture, the rod that has bolts with rubbers on them. That's the one..

[Booster1]

I just did the right wheel, and I was being more careful as I was turning it. I was using a hammer to tap the allen wrench in each time I turned it, and even used my jack next to the piece so that the allen key wouldn't turn. Everything looked fine and started to get more and more difficult as I went down the bolt... then it happened.

The entire bolt broke. I couldn't believe how rusty and weak this component was...all I have to say it wow...



Here's simple sketch how I did it. The red with two arrows pointing up and down means, use a compressor tool until the bar that's holding the rod will go down and you can put it where it was. But you must also hold the compressor tool to prevent from slipping from it's place.


http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/7421/samplehb3.jpg

here's the compressor tool I used to make that bar goes down.
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/7079/2214dx8.jpg

[MicaCeli]

I was trying to change my spring with a lowering spring starting at the rear suspension. I had all the tools I needed,no power tools just regular. When I came across with this nut it was so damn hard to unwind, it was super tight. I might try that product today. I hope it will work out. Thanks for posting that..




http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9093/wrenchcq0.jpg


On the rear suspension the bottom bolt of the strut instructions:

DO NOT try to turn that nut, it has little nipples on it that go into little holes in the lower arm....you will not be able to turn it.

Go for the actual bolt. Most of the time you will need to use a breaker bar to break it loose and then use an impact.

[Booster1]

On the rear suspension the bottom bolt of the strut instructions:

DO NOT try to turn that nut, it has little nipples on it that go into little holes in the lower arm....you will not be able to turn it.

Go for the actual bolt. Most of the time you will need to use a breaker bar to break it loose and then use an impact.


I did. Thanks for your adviced.

[CalPencil]

I got the whole rear suspension off, the endlinks broke....

I'm going to tackle the front today.... will these endlinks break too? I hope not....

I want to finish this whole job by tomorrow. After I get the suspension out, I'll have to take it to a shop to remove those suspension hats. They are impossible too.

[Booster1]

I got the whole rear suspension off, the endlinks broke....

I'm going to tackle the front today.... will these endlinks break too? I hope not....

I want to finish this whole job by tomorrow. After I get the suspension out, I'll have to take it to a shop to remove those suspension hats. They are impossible too.


Nothing is impossible if you know what your doing. By the way, did you use the gunk spray to loosen those tight bolts and nuts?if you need more pictures check the installation and go to suspension. Click on the first thread by LarryD. He got some nice pic. I follow his step and I did fine. Good luck

[CalPencil]

The funny thing is, I've been using the spray stuff from the beginning...and it didn't help the rears.

[SquirtinGT-S]

For the rear we ended up having to cut out the end links on my car... it all worked out though because i got custom adjustables from oneblackgts and i love em. easily adjustable and nice and beefy too. Also its so easy to work on my suspension now, not having to use that stupid allen wrench.

[CalPencil]

I didn't want to pay that much for the end links, and I too had to cut off both sides.

[b18b1tranny]

toyota sells a awesome liquid oil that penetrates much faster then liquid wrench. I don't fin the part #, but it's the manual shop somewhere. Hope it helps.

Anayways, I always change them, they cost 50$ each jobber.