cross drilled/ slotted rotors & ceramic pads

[stlGTS]

hello, i recently bought crossdrilled/ slotted rotors with ceramic pds for my 2000 gts but havent had time to put them on yet. So while ive been witing to put them on, ive been serching to find how how to effectively break in the rotors and pads correctly but hve been unsuccessful in finding said infomation. Can anyone tell me how to break these in the right way?

[neological]

6-8 hard stops from 20-55 mph repeatedly until your rotors are blue of you can smell the pads. do not come to a complete stop and when you finish park the car on a level surface with the parking brakes off until the rotors cool.

Clearly you did not do any research here before buying those rotors and pads. Good luck.

[stlGTS]

i did a search but came up pretty close to empty handed but i do greatly appreciate the advice.

[neological]

It's not a deadly combination or anything your pads and rotors just won't last as long.

[stlGTS]

should i have gotten a semi-metallic pad or something along those lines?

[WHITEKNIGHT2000]

No, Ceramic is better and OE for the Celica. It produces less dust, heat and has less noise.

[ghet2_gts]

oem pads has less dust IMO

[CalPencil]

but it also produces more stopping distance than with other pads

[lpphreakx06]

More dust= its atleast working. I dont mind dusting.

[fastceli00]

I love the criticism of his decision and no suggestions with a reason why it is better. Let me tell you what I am CURRENTLY running and have experienced in all types of driving conditions and some light autocross.

EBC Sport Rotors in the front
EBC Green Stuff pads all around
Stock rotors turned in the rear before pad install

These netted a significant increase in stopping power to the point that I can jerk myself out of the seat if I brake very hard. As an example of the benefits, the rotors and pads outpace the anti-lock system at slow speeds and can lock up the fronts during hard stops (I have crappy drivers in Houston to contend with!).

The noise is non-existent after proper break-in (I will say what I did below), dust is noticable but not obscene by any means, and fade resistence has significantly increased.

As for the break-in procedure, I did this on a frontage road of a major highway and went through it completely once and again a few days later but at a lower speed. Accelerate to 60-70 (depending on how much room you have to play with and the Johnny Law presence in the area) and brake down to about 10-20, then repeat this about 8-10 times. At this point the brakes will have a very noticable smell due to the bedding and in the case of EBC, the break-in coating. After that I did a good 15 mile cruise on the highway that invovled almost no braking to cool down the system and then went home and let them cool completely to the touch. After this they were significantly different then right after install and once I went through it again about 4-5 times then cool down they were pretty much at 95%.

Now in the case of EBC they say it takes anywhere from 1000-5000 miles for them to completely bed in to the rotor but in my case the difference has been minimal over the 10000 miles I have had them on. My only issue is the green stuff are a touch soft for the heat of Houston, driving I do in constant stop and go traffic and are wearing a bit faster than I would like. Going to be switching to red stuff on the next round and will swap in the EBC sport rotors in the back unless I find something else that I get a deal on (might go stock since the rear brakes are not really that critical).

Hope this helps and don't let the haters get down on you. Enjoy the new found stopping power and let us know what you think once they are bedded in.

[neological]

I love the criticism of his decision and no suggestions with a reason why it is better. Let me tell you what I am CURRENTLY running and have experienced in all types of driving conditions and some light autocross.


Ok, the reason why I haven't gone into it is that I have posted (and many others) about rotor/pad combos like 40000000 times in this forum and a simple search would reveal that. Passive-aggressive attitudes are not needed here even if your statement was not directed towards me.

EBC Sport Rotors in the front
EBC Green Stuff pads all around
Stock rotors turned in the rear before pad install

These netted a significant increase in stopping power to the point that I can jerk myself out of the seat if I brake very hard. As an example of the benefits, the rotors and pads outpace the anti-lock system at slow speeds and can lock up the fronts during hard stops (I have crappy drivers in Houston to contend with!).

The noise is non-existent after proper break-in (I will say what I did below), dust is noticable but not obscene by any means, and fade resistence has significantly increased.

As for the break-in procedure, I did this on a frontage road of a major highway and went through it completely once and again a few days later but at a lower speed. Accelerate to 60-70 (depending on how much room you have to play with and the Johnny Law presence in the area) and brake down to about 10-20, then repeat this about 8-10 times. At this point the brakes will have a very noticable smell due to the bedding and in the case of EBC, the break-in coating. After that I did a good 15 mile cruise on the highway that invovled almost no braking to cool down the system and then went home and let them cool completely to the touch. After this they were significantly different then right after install and once I went through it again about 4-5 times then cool down they were pretty much at 95%.

Now in the case of EBC they say it takes anywhere from 1000-5000 miles for them to completely bed in to the rotor but in my case the difference has been minimal over the 10000 miles I have had them on. My only issue is the green stuff are a touch soft for the heat of Houston, driving I do in constant stop and go traffic and are wearing a bit faster than I would like. Going to be switching to red stuff on the next round and will swap in the EBC sport rotors in the back unless I find something else that I get a deal on (might go stock since the rear brakes are not really that critical).

Hope this helps and don't let the haters get down on you. Enjoy the new found stopping power and let us know what you think once they are bedded in.

Seriously, you haven't given any information that wasn't in the 2nd post besides "I have EBC pads and rotors. I like them." Also, don't call people out as 'haters,' it's not productive. Just say your piece.

Btw Red Stuffs are kevlar. I am not a fan of kevlar pads, they have a totally ridiculous break in time but they last awhile. Try the Hawk HPS/TRD pads if you haven't already, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

There is no reason to replace your rear stock rotors with anything but stock rotors unless you are doing it for looks.

"Soft" isn't bad. Your rotors will last a lot longer and the atmospheric temp of where you live should not be enough to cause fade in itself unless it is regularly over 200 degrees there or you're doing repeated high speed stops (like 80-25 mph over and over again).

In response to my original comment about the setup my concern is that a drilled/slotted rotor is prone to cracking and any heat sink advantage would be negated by the really low operating temp of the ceramic brake pads. Normal street pads and rotors would probably offer better stopping power and pad life but slightly more dust and less fade resistance. And fade resistance is almost always useless outside of a track situation, I ran 40 autocross runs 2 weeks ago many back-to-back-to-back-to-back on HPS street pads with absolutely 0 fade.

If you want a list of what to buy for a street setup it's easy: stock Toyota rotors and TRS/hawk HPS pads. Every competitive autocrosser in a Celica I know of runs this, I ran it on my Celica and it works great. The best aspect of the Celica is its stock braking, Toyota did a phenomenal job and there isn't much to improve on.

[D_CeLiRaToR]

+1 on the hawk hps pad. i autocrossed last weekend and did 20+ runs back to back... and by the end of the day they still held up strong. good initial bite for the street too. i also run powerslot oem rotors.

[pnoy]

I just finished installing HPS pads with autozone's cheap rotors. I agree that HPS are a great pad and after I break them in, I was driving it around and I was very impressed.

[stlGTS]

well at this point since i already bought the otors and pads i might as well use them but now that i know of a good break set up them ill probably go to that next. im gonna give these a run though and just see how they are overall. thanks to all who contributed their feedback!!:D

[Thor]

6-8 hard stops from 20-55 mph repeatedly until your rotors are blue of you can smell the pads.

I never thought I could stand on the brakes of a car then go 20-55 mph.
That would be a good way to bed them in though. I like your style.

Slotted/cross drilled rotors are fine, as are your pads. There is no need to worry. Your combo is good.
Tires make a bigger difference on braking. I don't know what tires you have.

Don't worry about the other posts, inflation has gone up and forgot about the low class.

Once you realize, after years of driving on those brakes and other cars, you will get it fully.