Fcuking drum brakes!!!

[redbull]

Never again will I replace drum shoes. I need to replace them because they were grinding at very slow speeds. Here the breakdown of what happened.

Sunday started at 10:30am jacking up the car and trying to get the damn drum off. Had the parking brake off and spun the adjuster but they didn

[Kangaruu]

Um...

There's this adjuster thing that goes between the 2 brake shoes near the top end (I'm not sure of the name but it's to push the shoes out as it wears down)

Maybe you should turn that thing so then it's at the shortest length and try putting the drums back on.

If it doesn't fit back on then I don't know.

If it fits back on and you can spin the drum very easily, then keep increasing the length of the adjuster until you have quite some resistance in spinning it.

Then pull up your e-brake and see if the shoes have enough contact with the drums. If not then keep adjusting. There's a little rubber thing on the backside of the brakes setup that you can remove and use like a screw driver or something to turn the adjuster.

Sorry for typing it so long but I want to make sure it's clear to you.

Good luck :)

[redbull]

I said that the adjuster (what it is called) is all the way closed(shortest length), but thanks:thumbup:

[Kangaruu]

Oh sorry I skimmed the paragraphs a little bit and missed that :sadpace:

[Kangaruu]

Oh!

Did you check the drums itself??

When I took off my own drums I noticed how there was a ring of rust around the part that doesn't come in contact with the drums. I sanded off that rust to be at the same height as the parts that contacts the shoes.

Just another idea :shrugs:

[drewd]

damn drum off.

2 bolts screw into the drum (you will see the holes)

Ratchet them in, make sure the e brake is not engaged.


I had the problem with the autozone shoes... they didn't have that metal piece on them so I was like WTF?!

I inspected the shoes and they still have like.. 100,000 miles left anyway so w/e.

I just sprayed brake parts cleaner until the drum assembly was clean inside and called it a day.

[redbull]

2 bolts screw into the drum (you will see the holes)

Ratchet them in, make sure the e brake is not engaged

Damn I didnt know what they were for, I just used a brass hammer and brass punch.

[renfield90]

The OEM kit I bought from Toyota came with the C-clips...

I've been putting this off for awhile, and you're not helping. :(

[drewd]

I've been putting this off for awhile, and you're not helping.

They may just be slightly worn. I have 10x,xxx miles on my car and guess what? Drum shoes are still good. They might just need a good cleaning because of the that crud accumulates inside of the assembly. Try adjusting the e brake cable, it helped in my car. But who knows, you autocross often..

[redbull]

The OEM kit I bought from Toyota came with the C-clips...

I've been putting this off for awhile, and you're not helping. :(

Well you have c-clips so that

[redbull]

They may just be slightly worn. I have 10x,xxx miles on my car and guess what? Drum shoes are still good. They might just need a good cleaning because of the that crud accumulates inside of the assembly. Try adjusting the e brake cable, it helped in my car. But who knows, you autocross often..

The Toyota guys did say that there was a

[Zero]

So all in all, the stock shoes still had some life left in them, yes?

I'm almost at 100k miles and haven't changed mine yet. Sounds like a bitch of a job to do. I may even have to drop the cash and get an OEM kit just for less of a hassle to get everything to fit. :ugh:

[Kangaruu]

So all in all, the stock shoes still had some life left in them, yes?

I'm almost at 100k miles and haven't changed mine yet. Sounds like a bitch of a job to do. I may even have to drop the cash and get an OEM kit just for less of a hassle to get everything to fit. :ugh:

Get them from R1Concepts, Chad.

I did all 4 brakes with every single part from R1Concepts with no problems :wiggle:

I'd even change the shoes for you if somehow I was in SD :chuckles:

[renfield90]

They may just be slightly worn. I have 10x,xxx miles on my car and guess what? Drum shoes are still good. They might just need a good cleaning because of the that crud accumulates inside of the assembly. Try adjusting the e brake cable, it helped in my car. But who knows, you autocross often..
I had my car in a tire shop for new tires. This was one of those places where they inspect all your crap without really asking you...kinda irked me a bit...but he showed me the shoes and there's not much left. Probably around the minimum or less. I am around the same mileage as you.

I'm addicted to heavy braking...yet the stock hardware has held up very well. My front pads have been on the car for 40k-50k miles and it's maybe halfway worn, maybe a little more.

The Toyota guys did say that there was a “cleaning” services (I forget what they called it)and that’s probably what I needed instead of the brake rebuild. I told him what happened and he said I should just get the brakes changed. But I want to safely run Motul RBF 600 for awhile and went for the full rebuild.
Could you elaborate on this "cleaning service" and "rebuild"? What exactly are you getting rebuilt? Anything special about that Motul that you need this done in order to "safely" run it?

I'm going in soon to replace the brake master cylinder. Wanna have my "story straight" when I go in, as it were.

[redbull]

I had defective brakes shoes. When held up to a good set the shoes were almost 4-5mm larger than the others.
Could you elaborate on this "cleaning service" and "rebuild"? What exactly are you getting rebuilt? Anything special about that Motul that you need this done in order to "safely" run it?

I'm going in soon to replace the brake master cylinder. Wanna have my "story straight" when I go in, as it were.

Their cleaning service was taking the drum off clean all the brake dust out of everything. Make sure the drums and all the other hardware was still in good shape.

The Rebuild is going replace all the seals, rings, springs, maybe pistons. It will also be flushed so that no moisture will be in the system.

Why get a rebuild to safely Motul?

Well moisture will get into the system. Either moisture enters through a cracked seal, excessive leakage, or driving in the rain it will find its way in. The Department of Transportation did studies a number of years ago and what they did was, they took fluid from normal automobiles, running under normal conditions with normal heat changes such as winter and summer. The DOT ran the cars and then they took samples of the fluids after one year. What they came up with was that the fluid contained 3 1/2 to 4 percent of water or moisture. When you see a wet boiling point number, what that is saying is that when the fluid is contaminated in any which way such as water coming through the master cylinder or seals, bad lines, etc., when it reaches 3 1/2% moisture in the fluid, that is the wet boiling point. Of course, if you get more water in it, it will go lower because water boils at 212 degrees. Motul will somewhat absorb the moisture causing its boiling point to go down. By eliminating the cracked seals I will be prolonging the breakdown of the brake fluid.

On top of that I will have the brake system running at top shape when the switch is made. So when I go to track days less fear of the brake system failing because they had 111,xxx miles on them.

Does that make any sense?

[renfield90]

Ahh, I see. That sounds expensive though. For the few track days I do, I might pass...hopefully the BMC is the root of my issues. If not, I'll have to learn to take it easy for a couple laps now and then.

[drewd]

I stripped the bolt on the line that goes into the master cylinder :faint:

It was loose/leaking and I turned the wrench and wtf?!

Cheap pos brass fittings :furious:

[redbull]

Ahh, I see. That sounds expensive though. For the few track days I do, I might pass...hopefully the BMC is the root of my issues. If not, I'll have to learn to take it easy for a couple laps now and then.

I was going to do the same thing you want to do, but when I had the problems I just decided to go ahead and do it everything.

For the rear brakes, and rebuild it came out to be $550. However, thanks to my Toyota guys helping me out with these coupons for parts and service it came out to be a lot less. They actually wrote it up as two separate tickets so I can use two coupons. I walked out the door for $375.

[redbull]

I stripped the bolt on the line that goes into the master cylinder :faint:

It was loose/leaking and I turned the wrench and wtf?!

Cheap pos brass fittings :furious:
That sucks this is also a reason why having all new hardware is a plus.