View Full Version : cams,valves with turbo
Carmageddont231
01-13-2009, 11:22 PM
What camshafts it is better for a turbo? piper cams st2 or st3?? As they really give an increase in comparison with a drain on capacities nearby 400 whp. In a consequence of that are damaged stock the valve and what mode of failure? When transition to the strengthened is expedient? It seemed to me that there is a sense to change only on hi rpm n/a engines.why people change stock valves on the turbo motor?
EMSRacerCeli03
01-13-2009, 11:38 PM
stage 2 pipers would be best. Turbo set ups sometimes have to get custom cams that have different duration and lift for the turbo. But ppl on here say stage 2 is best. stage 3 for NA.
ppl change out the valves and upgrade them bc the stock ones are prone to mushroom as higher power and higher rpms. Also ppl will tell you for big whp goals change the oil pump gear to be on teh safe side.
Carmageddont231
01-14-2009, 12:04 AM
How many in horses and torque I will really win having established piper cams st3 if drain level is in area 350-400whp on 2zz
The budget is strongly limited also to me it would not be desirable to make changes connected with replacement of camshafts and valves if it is possible to remain on a drain with the minimum losses
EMSRacerCeli03
01-14-2009, 12:52 AM
stage 3 would be pushing the limits of a turbo set up. i would get stage 2 or custom make them. and if it is a gt-s you wont need cams. Cams just help in the low and mid and a little up top. and there are turbo threads to get to 350whp and up.
If you go that high your problem areas in the gt-s are
*pistons i think are to like 270-300whp before they are out of their zone. plus lowering the compression with forged pistons will help with power.
*valves mushroom at high rpms and high power. dont know to what extent and upgraded valves and valve springs add a few horses bc they flow better
*oil pump goes out at high rpms and high power. Its a safety thing you should do.
For that power replace all the bad spots of the celica mentioned above. and just run with a big turbo like smaays set up. Look him up and he has a nice kit that can make high power. Think he is at 500+whp with pistons, valve upgrade, uped oil pump, and standalone ECU and his custom set up. but im just pulling this stuff out of my a#$. ask smaay he would lead you in the right direction with a great kit.
EMSRacerCeli03
01-14-2009, 12:55 AM
o yeah smaay will tell you cams are a waste of money bc with a nice turbo set up, like his, you dont need them and they are at FI. But they add power and help with low end and md like i said, just extra grand for a few more horses. with smaays set up and a few upgrades to pistons, valves, and oil pump and standalone you could make over your expectations
Entranced
01-14-2009, 07:33 AM
the reason we say cams aren't necessary are because you can make 400 whp without them. If you are going turbo and building the block, you only really need to upgrade the pistons/rings and you'd be set. most people get bearings, pistons, rods, and a sleeve since the block is open already and it's extra assurance. However, it is not necessary. Same thing with the valvetrain. You do not need to upgrade it for 400whp... if you can't spend the extra $1k on cams, then don't. it's not necessary. If you don't mind doing it, it's a decent gain in the midrange. Turboing the car helps midrange anyways (dependant on the size of the turbo).
Carmageddont231
01-15-2009, 12:41 AM
I already have с2 turbokit on gt2860rs, but I will build stronger engine.... Whether I plan pistons mahle 9.0, turbine gt3071 under t25 under a collector from с2 here and I think to remove 400-450 horses from weels. it is necessary to touch camshafts and the valves.
And at the given level of capacity at least approximately in figures on the twisting moment and capacity and on what modes if I change camshafts on piper cams st2 how many will change?
Whether there is a necessity for following positions: MWR ARP head stud kit - Toyota 1ZZ/2ZZ, MWR ARP header stud kit - Toyota 2ZZ, MWR ARP main stud kit - Toyota 1ZZ/2ZZ
what head gasket i need?stock?Others on sale did not see
what bearings non stock i need or mwr bearings it is stock?
MWR Main Bearing Set, MWR Rod Bearing Set, MWR Thrust Bearing Set
All is necessary? And on run in 110000км to take a standard grade or-0.25
GSBoek
01-15-2009, 04:35 AM
Definitely get the ARP stud kits. The Toyota head gasket is perfectly fine even beyond 600whp. Get the complete MWR bearing set, with 110.000KM I highly doubt you need to oversize the bearings. The standard set is fine, you just need to double check clearances.
Smaay
01-15-2009, 08:39 AM
i recommend getting just the MWR rod bearings, stick with OEM main bearings. they dont see the loads that the rods to and you can get the right sizes. the MWR main bearings i have seen several time to be very tight and need to be massaged to the right clearances.
Carmageddont231
01-15-2009, 11:23 PM
i recommend getting just the MWR rod bearings, stick with OEM main bearings. they dont see the loads that the rods to and you can get the right sizes. the MWR main bearings i have seen several time to be very tight and need to be massaged to the right clearances.
What size main bearings mwr to choose? The standard?
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