Tensioner pulley hell

[autxr]

So I ordered up a new tensioner assembly and belt. Went to install it today.

The tensioner is damn near impossible to get at with the engine in the car, there is only about 1 inch (or less) to work with. You can not get a socket on the mounting bolt, and it is tight even getting a wrench on it.

Couple that to the fact it sure seems like an odd bolt head. It seems to be tapered. I have a feeling if I had the complete TSB (I'm missing page 2) that I would see a Special Service Tool listed for the removal of that bolt.

After about an hour of fussing from ablve and below, i gave up, put the new belt on and put the car back together with the old tensioner in place. I'll pay Toyota to do it.

Anyhow, while I was in there, I followed teh instructions for bleeding the tensioner piston. The first few strokes, you could hear the air bubbles in it, by the 3rd stroke it seemed to firm up significantly, and the air noises stopped (hmmm, maybe that's the reason for a new part, maybe the new one has better seals so it doesn't let the air mix in the oil as easily...).

So, anyhow, with the new belt and the bled piston, the engine is MUCH quieter now, no more squeal at startup and low RPM launches.

I'm satisfied. I should have just ordered the belt...

At this point, I'm not going to even bother with the new tensioner. I'll see how long the new belt makes it better, and if I need to replace the belt once a year it isn't a big deal, it is cheap.

I'll just save the new tensioner as spare parts...maybe I'll sell it.

Scott

[Raymund]

There are some 1/2" socket wrench that will fit under the 1" clearance.

I manage to strip the bolt to hell and I found a long screwdriver wedged against the pivot base and the actual "tapered" bolt. will also work!!

[GTS808]

How do you beeld the tensioner piston? Is it easy to do? I'm starting to get that squeal and if I can avoid the dealer I'd like to. =)

[autxr]

Raymund-

I've decided that the "right" tool would be a 17mm crow foot wrench, even better if someone makes a crow foot line/flare wrench or box end wrench.

A 17mm flare wrench would work if you could get an extension on it...

As for bleeding the piston, you will need a 19mm wrench or socket. Put it on the adjusting positon of the tensioner and move it to the full stroke of the piston, then let it slowly (over about 1-3 seconds) release. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times.

Scott

[GTS808]

Thanks for the info. I'll try it out.

[Griffin]

Originally posted by autxr
So I ordered up a new tensioner assembly and belt. Went to install it today.

The tensioner is damn near impossible to get at with the engine in the car, there is only about 1 inch (or less) to work with. You can not get a socket on the mounting bolt, and it is tight even getting a wrench on it.

Couple that to the fact it sure seems like an odd bolt head. It seems to be tapered. I have a feeling if I had the complete TSB (I'm missing page 2) that I would see a Special Service Tool listed for the removal of that bolt.

After about an hour of fussing from ablve and below, i gave up, put the new belt on and put the car back together with the old tensioner in place. I'll pay Toyota to do it.

Anyhow, while I was in there, I followed teh instructions for bleeding the tensioner piston. The first few strokes, you could hear the air bubbles in it, by the 3rd stroke it seemed to firm up significantly, and the air noises stopped (hmmm, maybe that's the reason for a new part, maybe the new one has better seals so it doesn't let the air mix in the oil as easily...).

So, anyhow, with the new belt and the bled piston, the engine is MUCH quieter now, no more squeal at startup and low RPM launches.

I'm satisfied. I should have just ordered the belt...

At this point, I'm not going to even bother with the new tensioner. I'll see how long the new belt makes it better, and if I need to replace the belt once a year it isn't a big deal, it is cheap.

I'll just save the new tensioner as spare parts...maybe I'll sell it.

Scott

Just FYI - depending on how long teh check ball was cavitating in the piston for you may have it go back to making noise pretty soon. The problem is that the check ball acutally damages the area it moves in when its got a bunch of air bubbles around it. Then again, if it never makes a rattling noise you may be in good shape.


As for accessing the tensioner, I tried to telll ha ya have to undo most of the motor mounts and jack the engine up&down a bit to gain access. All the bolts are standard - no SST.

Griffin

[Griffin]

Originally posted by autxr
Raymund-

I've decided that the "right" tool would be a 17mm crow foot wrench, even better if someone makes a crow foot line/flare wrench or box end wrench.

A 17mm flare wrench would work if you could get an extension on it...

As for bleeding the piston, you will need a 19mm wrench or socket. Put it on the adjusting positon of the tensioner and move it to the full stroke of the piston, then let it slowly (over about 1-3 seconds) release. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times.

Scott

snapon makes nice long 0 offset box ends.

[Griffin]

Oh - as for the new part, as near as I have been able to find out (mind you this is second hand) the main differences are:

1 - fluid change from mineral oil to synthetic
2 - checkball material change (I'm not super clear but it either went from brass to ceramic to ceramic to brass)
3 - actual area checkball moves in has been altered (alterations unknown)

Griffin

[autxr]

i know ya warned me. undoing motor mounds and jacking teh engine isn't worth it.

If it starts making noise again sooner than later (which I suspect it will), I will pay the dealership. If I can hold them to the 0.6 hours labor quoted in the TSB, then it is worth it ($50-80 isn't so bad...).

Scott