youngxlos built engine V2.1

[youngxlos]

hey guys, yes I'm in the right section, I have decided to go Turbo.
I don't want super crazy power, I don't want my trans to blow up on me, so 300-350hp would be ideal for my dd Celica.

So a little help, what parts should I keep and what parts should I sell???
here is what I'm thinking about keeping
old valve-train, MWR retainers, Super Tech valve, Eibach valve spring, and piper stage 3, no port and polish i don't think ill need it, I don't want much hp
as for the bottom end, Ill keep the knifed edge crank, and the cw oil pump gear.

pistons I was thinking Mahle 10.5:1 or should i go 9.0:1????
and as for the turbo i was thinking about going with the GT2871R
Ill def upgrade the fuel pump to 255 instead of 190
as for rods MWR should be fine for that power level right???
ummm do i need a fuel return system????
that's all i can think off, guide me in the right direction please :gap:

[vegeta4ss]

hey guys, yes I'm in the right section, I have decided to go boost.
I don't want super crazy power, I don't want my trans to blow up on me, so 300-350hp would be ideal for my dd Celica.

So a little help, what parts should I keep and what parts should I sell???
here is what I'm thinking about keeping
old valve-train, MWR retainers, Super Tech valve, Eibach valve spring, and piper stage 3, no port and polish i don't think ill need it, I don't want much hp
as for the bottom end, Ill keep the knifed edge crank, and the cw oil pump gear.

pistons I was thinking Mahle 10.5:1 or should i go 9.0:1????
and as for the turbo i was thinking about going with the GT2871R
Ill def upgrade the fuel pump to 255 instead of 190
as for rods MWR should be fine for that power level right???
ummm do i need a fuel return system????
that's all i can think off, guide me in the right direction please :gap:

maybe I am missing something here but if you are willing to spend out on ^ above list of parts then would it not be just as cheap to finish the N/A build which you already have almost everything for? :confused:

I definitely want to see you get your celi back on the road, whatever route you choose.

[Jesse IL]

I'd go with the 9:1 Mahle's. 10.5:1 is definitely too high. If I were to do mine again, I'd go with 9:1 rather than 10:1.

Stock rods will be fine.

For fuel, you'll want the 255 lph pump and MWR 630cc injectors. You can get away without the return system and can add it later when you want to turn up the boost.

Turbo selection is somewhat debatable. For your goals, I'd go with the the 48 trim GT2871R that I have or the GT2860RS. I have similar power goals to you, but can't run as much boost due to higher compression. With 9:1, you could simply run higher boost (which would necessitate a return system) and use the smaller turbo. What you should do is ride in my car and see what you think about it.

For the manifolds and piping, you could go a number of ways. The MWR stuff is super nice, but also super expensive. The big equal-length manifold also seems more suited to bigger external wastegate turbos. The Turbokits.com stuff looks great but I really dislike their intercooler piping setup. That said, it isn't horrible and as long as you get a 3" upper intercooler pipe, you'll be set.

[youngxlos]

http://www.staticxmotorsports.com/garrettgt2871rturbocharger-woactuator.aspxpretty good price i guess, also could i just buy the turbo and work my away around it, piping and manifold wise???
i dont have 3k to drop all at once.
i was thinking about doing what Jesse did, have the engine build and running and adding the turbo later on. meaning buying parts slowly till the kit is complete

[Jesse IL]

DO NOT buy a turbo until you ride in my car and talk to me. Many turbo sources are shady.

[youngxlos]

sounds good Jesse, any machine shops you trust???? should i stay stock sleeves??? i don't mind using sleeves, of course this time with the correct sleeves....

[youngxlos]

maybe I am missing something here but if you are willing to spend out on ^ above list of parts then would it not be just as cheap to finish the N/A build which you already have almost everything for? :confused:

I definitely want to see you get your celi back on the road, whatever route you choose.
hp levels will never keep me happy, i have come to realize that i wont be happy if i stay n/a i might have traction issues with the fwd turbo but i know i could go to the track and add slicks and run way faster times any n/a celica could.

[vegeta4ss]

hp levels will never keep me happy, i have come to realize that i wont be happy if i stay n/a i might have traction issues with the fwd turbo but i know i could go to the track and add slicks and run way faster times any n/a celica could.

I can understand that.

In that case I would do what you posted above and build the motor up like Jesse did and then throw on the turbo down the road.

[Entranced]

stage 3 cams are not meant for FI either. stock or stage 2's if you feel like swapping.

[tranmk]

take my turbo!! in my garage!!

[fraugts]

Good luck with the project. A totally different horse, I assure you, lol.

[pitchblackgts]

that mean you gotta get new vanity plates..lol
good luck we should meet up sometime.

[Mido]

Good luck with what ever route you chose, too bad we won't get to see the V2.0 completed!

if you ever decide to sell the cams, pm me :D

[deercelica]

Carlos..

I see your following in my steps,.. I hope I didn't sway you by my N/A to F/I transition. Your build was always has inspired me. I just hope the turbo version does the same!

[Smaay]

sell your cams and go back to stock. if you are going to sleeve, dont get mahle, get wisecos.

as for compression Jesse is right, higher compression means less boost to make the same power. i think its a trade off. look at the compressor map of the turbo and see what boost gets you to where you want to be

[kortik]

wow crazy change

[celica_2nr]

glad you're not giving up on making some power.

[youngxlos]

sell your cams and go back to stock. if you are going to sleeve, dont get mahle, get wisecos.

as for compression Jesse is right, higher compression means less boost to make the same power. i think its a trade off. look at the compressor map of the turbo and see what boost gets you to where you want to be
whats wrong with stage 3 cams??? Jesse said it should be fine.
Jesse also told me to stay with stock sleeves and go with Mahle and stay with stock rods.
i know i should search but is the stock head capable of making 350whp??? keep in mind i don't wanna go crazy on the boost side, i wanna make good power at low boost because i want this thing to last

[deercelica]

If you want to make big power at low boost, you might want to choose a slightly larger turbo for more CFM.

Also, I believe the head is capable, from my research, the biggest breaking point is stock pistons at 300WHP

[youngxlos]

pistons will be replace no matter what.
but cams will help like Jesse said on my other thread, the cams low lobe kills the stock one so i am sure it should make good power at lower rpm because of the cams, and yes i know i wont use the cams at their full potential but i don't wanna go buy a new set when i can still use this one, i will also have the DD intake manifold so that should help my number also

[blacktsport]

Good luck Carlos, there'll be plenty of guys more than willing to help. Let's ALL hope this one goes well and you get back on the road ASAP bud. F/I FTW!

[Jesse IL]

sell your cams and go back to stock. if you are going to sleeve, dont get mahle, get wisecos.

as for compression Jesse is right, higher compression means less boost to make the same power. i think its a trade off. look at the compressor map of the turbo and see what boost gets you to where you want to be
He's going to go with the 9:1 Mahle's. He has a brand new shortblock and these will drop right in. Dave has shown that the stock block with the valve reliefs flows better than a sleeved block. Also, the 9:1's are available immediately.

So with 9:1 pistons, he'll run higher boost than I do. I'm going to give him a ride in my car with the 48 trim GT2871R but I'm leaning towards thinking that the GT2860RS will be more suitable here. My car was designed around higher compression (10:1), lower boost and a small trim compressor to aid spool. He can run up around 20 psi with the compression he has and be well into the power range he's after. If you look at the compressor maps for either turbo, to get max efficiency at maximum flow of the compressor, you want to be running a pressure ratio greater than 2:1. Also, with the big cams, it should breathe great up top and the 62 trim compressor should really shine. It should also spool great, since it's a smaller compressor than what I have.

[youngxlos]

all of that sounds awesome Jesse
quick question, say i do go with the GT2860RS could i just tell for say turbokits.com to custom make me a exhaust manifold to fit that turbo? or should i be looking at going to like inline pro witch is local and have them make me one???

[kaizer_soze]

i am going the same route soon, so I will watch this with interest. Good luck youngxlos with this.
A question that may be interesting to the OP too. If I get PFC + datalogic will fit my 03 GTS, no DBW and still be able to use my A/C?

[Smaay]

He's going to go with the 9:1 Mahle's. He has a brand new shortblock and these will drop right in. Dave has shown that the stock block with the valve reliefs flows better than a sleeved block. Also, the 9:1's are available immediately.

nothing wrong with that, just make sure the block is still in spec. MWR has run into brand new blocks that still fell out of spec.

[youngxlos]

thanks for that info Smaay, ummm i guess ill have to wait till Jesse is in town and can come look at my block.

[Jesse IL]

quick question, say i do go with the GT2860RS could i just tell for say turbokits.com to custom make me a exhaust manifold to fit that turbo?
The t-k.com manifold is designed to work with either the GT2860RS or the GT2871R. They both use the exact same turbine housing. That is provided you get an authentic Garrett turbo. Many of the discount places you see online buy the Garrett CHRA and then stick on aftermarket housings, which are a fraction of the price. They can sell them for less to unsuspecting customers and make more money. That's why I said talk to me before doing anything.
nothing wrong with that, just make sure the block is still in spec.
There's a good machine shop locally that I was going to have him use. I was planning on having him send the block up there to have the rings gapped. They can measure the bores at the same time.

[deercelica]

Seems like we are in the same boat, youngxlos, just your pockets are a bit deeper!

Get that GT2871R. I think it will suit you well. Along with the low comp Mahles (given you're in spec, and which ever compression you choose) and you will be where you want I bet. Turbokits.com will sell thier kit WITH the GT2871R complete. It is an available option, so you can ditch the T28 they give in the base kit, like mine.

Also, the question to be answered is 350WHP on stock head? Possible (safely)?

[gte]

When did Eibach start making valve springs?

Who's building the motor?




hey guys, yes I'm in the right section, I have decided to go boost.
I don't want super crazy power, I don't want my trans to blow up on me, so 300-350hp would be ideal for my dd Celica.

So a little help, what parts should I keep and what parts should I sell???
here is what I'm thinking about keeping
old valve-train, MWR retainers, Super Tech valve, Eibach valve spring, and piper stage 3, no port and polish i don't think ill need it, I don't want much hp
as for the bottom end, Ill keep the knifed edge crank, and the cw oil pump gear.

pistons I was thinking Mahle 10.5:1 or should i go 9.0:1????
and as for the turbo i was thinking about going with the GT2871R
Ill def upgrade the fuel pump to 255 instead of 190
as for rods MWR should be fine for that power level right???
ummm do i need a fuel return system????
that's all i can think off, guide me in the right direction please :gap:

[Jesse IL]

Who's building the motor?
I am. Other than obviously the machine work.

[youngxlos]

looks like im going to go with the turbokits.com kit since its pretty complete and all i would have to do is pay the extra 700 for the GT2871R

[deercelica]

Welcome to the crew youngxlos.

[v3bahumut]

looks like im going to go with the turbokits.com kit
Too bad you abandoned the N/A project, it was something interesting to follow, but welcome to the boost club.

Be sure to get the 3" MAF sensor tube upgrade.

[youngxlos]

^^^ yeah i had too, the power was just not there, took me almost 3 years to realize but we learn from our mistakes.
btw where do i add the 3" MAF sensor tube upgrade i dont see it on their site

[TRlPPlN]

its unfortunate that it took you quite some time and after so much $$$$ has been invested. g/l with your new build. although im not shooting for the same HP as you but i will be satisfied with close to 250 for my own enjoyment. anyways subscribing to your thread...

[many]

When did Eibach start making valve springs?
for the 2zz , about 7 years ago....

[Mido]

btw where do i add the 3" MAF sensor tube upgrade i dont see it on their site
i think i've seen a 3" tube on ppe's site.

[Jesse IL]

looks like im going to go with the turbokits.com kit since its pretty complete and all i would have to do is pay the extra 700 for the GT2871R
Seriously, talk to me before you make any purchases. You've been bitten in the ass a lot of times in the past by rushing into things.

[Entranced]

If you want to make big power at low boost, you might want to choose a slightly larger turbo for more CFM.

Also, I believe the head is capable, from my research, the biggest breaking point is stock pistons at 300WHP

a larger turbo will also spool slower, however... So when looking at low end power, you will be lacking.

As far as the head goes, I believe Smaay's running with a stock head and making over 500whp. I know his cams are stock but i'm not sure about valves and springs. Are you still going to run with the flat face valves? It might help spool time with the 9:1 pistons.

If i'm not mistaken, stage 2 cams are better than 3 for FI because they have a smaller overlap. You don't get as much blow-through and therefore can make more power... but then again, you could probably tune this out with your VVT settings

[youngxlos]

Jesse my main focus is getting the car to run, I don't have 3k to buy the Kit yet but that is what I think I wanna go with, I'll decide when you take me for a spin today

[Jesse IL]

a larger turbo will also spool slower, however... So when looking at low end power, you will be lacking.
I'm not convinced the GT2871R is what Carlos is really after. Obviously I have this turbo so I like it, but my car runs 10:1 compression, which is much higher than what Carlos will be running. For that reason, I can't run a ton of boost, so my peak hp will be down.

Side note: there are two common GT2871R's, a 56 trim and a 48 trim. These are vastly different turbos in terms of performance and so people should never generalize when talking about this turbo.

In the case of 9:1 compression, Carlos' stated goals, I really think the GT2860RS could be a better choice. Keep in mind that there's people making over 300 whp on this turbo on stock cams, stock manifold and running pretty low boost, where the turbo isn't even operating at peak efficiency. With the low compression, this car can be running up around 20-24 psi of boost. If that sounds like a lot, consider that a stock EVO runs boost like that. At the maximum flow of the compressor, the turbo is actually more efficient at that boost.

I'm going to give Carlos a ride in my car to see how he likes it, but with big cams, the DD manifold and big boost, I don't see any reason why his car couldn't get well into his desired range with the smaller and faster spooling GT2860RS.

[youngxlos]

Thanks Jesse I'll see you later today

[v3bahumut]

where do i add the 3" MAF sensor tube upgrade i dont see it on their site

I don't think there is an option on the site, just contact Jesse via email before you order and be sure to tell him you want the largest MAF pipe.

[youngxlos]

well after taking a ride in Jesse's car and after speaking to him for a good while. i think i should go with the GT2860RS, i know in the back of my mind i should go bigger just in case i wanna make more power, but like Jesse said my setup with this turbo should be really good because of my compression i could run higher boost and probably make the same or more power as him.
again the main focus is getting the car to run, so im just waiting on Dave to send my rods back

[kortik]

wow nice

[v3bahumut]

i think i should go with the GT2860RS
Good choice :thumbup:

[youngxlos]

yeah and i know Jesse knows what his talking about so ill follow his advice

[Jesse IL]

I gave Carlos a ride in my car with the GT2871R and 10:1 compression. I'm currently only at around 10 psi (according to the boost controller) and only running I believe 16 degrees total timing under boost, so it's retarded as hell right now. Even like this, I was not able to keep traction in first gear, even with a limited slip. I basically explained it as, "the car is already losing traction and it has probably another 80 hp in it."

Carlos, to try and put your mind at rest that you don't need a bigger turbo, when you're running low compression, you pretty much need high boost to gain back the power you're losing in the compression. With my setup on a lower compression motor plus cams and a DD manifold, you're talking about a 400 whp car. You do not need 400 whp. At 400 whp, you're talking about no traction in any gear, basically a highway-only car. Also, a fast-spooling turbo is really fun to drive. if you're ever driven something like a Camaro with tons of torque, you know what it feels like to have mountains of torque on demand. Believe me, you'll be extremely happy with the GT2860RS. It should easily be a 350 whp car.

[kortik]

why not GT28RS then or is it too small?

[youngxlos]

probably too small

[lVlemphizStylez]

LMAO!!!!!!! Good luck

[lVlemphizStylez]

I gave Carlos a ride in my car with the GT2871R and 10:1 compression. I'm currently only at around 10 psi (according to the boost controller) and only running I believe 16 degrees total timing under boost, so it's retarded as hell right now. Even like this, I was not able to keep traction in first gear, even with a limited slip. I basically explained it as, "the car is already losing traction and it has probably another 80 hp in it."

Carlos, to try and put your mind at rest that you don't need a bigger turbo, when you're running low compression, you pretty much need high boost to gain back the power you're losing in the compression. With my setup on a lower compression motor plus cams and a DD manifold, you're talking about a 400 whp car. You do not need 400 whp. At 400 whp, you're talking about no traction in any gear, basically a highway-only car. Also, a fast-spooling turbo is really fun to drive. if you're ever driven something like a Camaro with tons of torque, you know what it feels like to have mountains of torque on demand. Believe me, you'll be extremely happy with the GT2860RS. It should easily be a 350 whp car.

Going to disagree there....

[x Jodeci x]

Going to disagree there....

He's probably talking about the Celica, or all FWD cars for that matter...

[youngxlos]

^^^^ lVlemphizStylez has a FWD turbo car, i just pm him asking him if he has issues with hooking up on the street.
also guys what are the most important gauges i should buy???
i already have air and fuel, what else should i go with????
also some good brands and stuff would be nice

[hotshot2101]

boost guage and oil pressure guage, oil temp is nice but nut neccescary

[youngxlos]

i currently have AEM wideband are their boost gauges good?
if not what is the best quality accurate boost gauge/ oil pressure gauge out there

[youngxlos]

are this any good???
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=73
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=72

[lVlemphizStylez]

i like Defi boost gauges personally. They look awesome and you get no needle flutter

[v3bahumut]

i currently have AEM wideband are their boost gauges good?

I run the AEM tru-boost, it's thier gauge and a digital controller, nice little unit.
I've had no issues with it.

[Jesse IL]

i like Defi boost gauges personally.
I'm a big Defi fan as well.

MemphizStylez is 100% about drag racing. For him, a super high hp car is ideal. But bear in mind, he isn't drag racing a Celica. If you want to build a purpose-built Ceica drag car, you should probably also have a pile of transmissions sitting around.

I don't drag race at all so I want a car that's going to spool quickly at low rpm and have a bunch of midrange power.

Take the Celica for what it is and build it for that purpose. If you want to impress guys on the internet with dyno numbers and go to the track to try and humiliate people, your best bet is to put a junkyard motor in the car and sell it, then get a different car. Honestly, the Celica is a major turd for this purpose.

Also, GT28RS = GT2860RS.

[kortik]

GT28RS is the same as GT2860RS? am I getting this right?

[hotshot2101]

yea gt2860 is the same exact trims as gt28rs just different names for new models

[youngxlos]

got the Fidanza Flywheel and Timing Chain today.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/IMG_1291.jpg
next week Mahle low compression pistons, 4 puck clutch and that should be it.
I really hope Dave shipped out the rods.
ill call him tomorrow

[WakeRider]

subscribing :eatpop:

young you basically have the same goals as i do so i am gonna watch this very closely ;). Once its finished i may have to come down and take a ride in it lol

[youngxlos]

sure bro, the actual turbo kit might not be on for a while since its about $4500 with all upgrades and bigger turbo. but ill work hard to get it asap =)

[WakeRider]

well i will be in the starting stages by early 2011 if everything goes well. I am slowly getting the car ready before i started doing the engine work.
Looking foward to see how this all goes =)

[lamboceliGTS]

How do you get around, your celica has been sitting forever :(

[Jesse IL]

4 puck clutch
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

Hope you like changing transmissions. I would STRONGLY recommend you go with the RPS Max Street. That's what I use in my car and what MWR has used in a number of moderate turbo applications. If you want the C60 to stay in one piece, use an organic clutch.

[lVlemphizStylez]

yea 4 puck clutches even sprung put a lot of the shock through the drivetrain because the clutch is designed to grab hard. I don't even run a 4 puck in mine (6 puck sprung). When I installed my 6 puck what happens when the clutch engages is you get a jerk in the car when DD'ing, it's slight, but definitely noticeable. Think of what it would feel like if you were shifting with a slightly broken motor mount, that's the feeling (but nothing is moving, that's just the shock on the drivetrain upon engagement)

[TUMASGTS]

If you want the C60 to stay in one piece, use an organic clutch. How about ceramic? or its a killer also?

[lVlemphizStylez]

puck clutches are ceramic...

[youngxlos]

Main reason I made the thread thanks Jesse and IVIemphiz, I already have the max I was just going to swap the clutch disk, since they both use the same pressure plate.
Well one less item to buy, Pistons will be ordered by the end of the week. I'll keep you guys posted and again thanks for the input

[Shizuma]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

Hope you like changing transmissions. I would STRONGLY recommend you go with the RPS Max Street. That's what I use in my car and what MWR has used in a number of moderate turbo applications. If you want the C60 to stay in one piece, use an organic clutch.

I've been using an ACT 6-puck for about 4 years now (it's about done) and my tranny's been fine. That's with various track runs as well. That's not to say the RPS clutch is a bad choice, I've heard a lot of good things about that clutch. Are you against a ceramic because of driveability concerns or because you feel it poses a genuine threat to the C60 because of driveline shock?

[deercelica]

How do you get around, your celica has been sitting forever

I kinda wonder the same. My car has been down a while too. but a little shy of how long you've been down..


I get around in my Audi A4 (B5)

[youngxlos]

I kinda wonder the same. My car has been down a while too. but a little shy of how long you've been down..


I get around in my Audi A4 (B5)
i should have her up and running within 2-3 weeks max
and i get around in a 91 Chrysler

[youngxlos]

just got off the phone with Dave, he is probably going to ship out my stuff tomorrow or Saturday =)
cant wait to get this car running !

[Jesse IL]

i should have her up and running within 2-3 weeks max
I think you're probably getting ahead of yourself. You're still waiting on parts, then you need to wait for a machine shop, then assemble the block, then install. From my own personal experience, I'd say you're about a month away.

[pitchblackgts]

I think you're probably getting ahead of yourself. You're still waiting on parts, then you need to wait for a machine shop, then assemble the block, then install. From my own personal experience, I'd say you're about a month away.

^^^^^^^
Jesse's keeping it real!!
Yooo I wanna ride in your car too!! however I think I'll be embarassed to get back into mine even after the supercharger gets put in. If you need someone to come with helping hands (and maybe some beers) lemme know!

[youngxlos]

yeah I usually get very exited and talk gibberish

[WakeRider]

hehehe join the club =p

[pitchblackgts]

how's it coming along?

[youngxlos]

Dave sent me a pm today with tracking numbers, but not sure what company he used.
the pistons should be here tomorrow. and if i get the rods from him this week.
ill def try to get to the Machine shop next week and have them gap the rings and this thing should come together soon after.

[youngxlos]

got the pistons and ARP flywheel bolts today.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC01122edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC01126edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC01127edit.jpg
Tracking numbers for the rods say everything should be here Friday.
Sometime next week ill drop it off at the Machine shop,
Jesse thinks they should do the job correctly and maybe a week or two after the car should be running =)

[Jesse IL]

I'll call Slava today and see if I can get the info on the machine shop.

[youngxlos]

Thanks Jesse, pm me or give me a call
what denso spark plugs should I go with?? I have IK22 now, but I remember people saying that was for N/A
input is always welcome

[03GTSTRD]

got the pistons and ARP flywheel bolts today.

Jesse thinks they should do the job correctly and maybe a week or two after the car should be running =)

Damn bro I am excited for you. I hope everything goes well at the machine shop.

[youngxlos]

They aren't doing anything major, just gaping the rings and puting the rods and pistons together and also making sure the rod bearings are good.
Super extied =]

[pitchblackgts]

can't wait to see the final product, I gotta pm you my cell.

[youngxlos]

Pitch go ahead, we need to have a big VA meet

[Jesse IL]

what denso spark plugs should I go with??
IK24

[youngxlos]

Thanks Jesse.

[kortik]

Where are going to get Ik24 from?
Let me know I need them as well

[youngxlos]

Where are going to get Ik24 from?
Let me know I need them as well
same place as before
http://www.ltbmotorsports.com/densoik165303.html

[youngxlos]

IK24
should i run with those while im still n/a???

[Magusownz]

should i run with those while im still n/a???

No you shouldn't ik24 would be too much for n/a bolt-on gts.

[youngxlos]

thank ill use stock ones for now

[kortik]

yeah if you breaking in your engine use stock IK20 once turbo intalled and your engine is broken in install IK24 and turbo.

Since I already have 90K miles on my matrix I dont need to brake anything LOL
I just ordered set of IK24s

[youngxlos]

sweet Kortik did you use the site i posted???
they are pretty fast at shipping things out also

[youngxlos]

Rods came in today.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/DSC01133edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/DSC01129edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/DSC01132edit.jpg
i hope the machine shop doestn take months.
but here they are

[EMSRacerCeli03]

look nice good luck

[kortik]

sweet Kortik did you use the site i posted???
they are pretty fast at shipping things out also


Yes I ordered from the site that you posted
should be here on Monday.

[youngxlos]

bye bye block
just a small update
I dropped off the block, Crankshaft, rods, pistons, flywheel,crankshaft pulley at the machine shop today.
They are pretty much going put the bottom end together, gap the rings, check clearances, balancing the whole thing and all that good stuff.
I took a few picture before i dropped the block off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC01135edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC01136edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC01137edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC01138edit.jpg
now that i think about it could of got a little more creative and could of had everything
in the picture like rods and pistons.
well yeah should have the block back in 2-3weeks.
so exited to get this thing going

[kortik]

this is a different shop that you used before right?
BTW got my Denso IK24 already today

[Jesse IL]

Totally different shop. This is a place that a friend of mine has used and gotten good results from.

[blacktsport]

Good stuff. Hope it goes well for you Carlos.

Loving the block pics too, nice to see the bits that make the magic happen right?! :gap:

[youngxlos]

Yes totally a different shop, they look like they know what they are doing,very nice shop.
Should be done in 2-3 weeks.
I can't wait!!!!
And Jesse I'm looking forward to getting a ride at 14psi =]

[youngxlos]

small updated again
got a package today.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/1254420847103edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/1254421094052edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/1254421115970edit.jpg
i went ahead and took advantage of MWR $50 off sale this month.
should be a nice security add on =)
now its just a waiting game.

[v3bahumut]

That knife edge crank looks so nice. :drool:

[youngxlos]

That knife edge crank looks so nice. :drool:
i wanted to get it coated, but it would of just take more time.
but everything is getting balanced with i think its more important, than coating:gap:

[Boosted2.0]

You ordered the TK.com kit right? Did you ask for a 3" up pipe from intercooler to TB?

[youngxlos]

You ordered the TK.com kit right? Did you ask for a 3" up pipe from intercooler to TB?
Hey Dave, glad your active again on the forums.
and really glad your family is ok, the Turbo kit has not yet been order.
I dont have 4k right now, but im saving, but yes ill have the 3" up pipes, upgraded intercooler, and bigger turbo. and everything coated.
any word on when the manifold will ship out??

[Boosted2.0]

Hey Dave, glad your active again on the forums.
and really glad your family is ok, the Turbo kit has not yet been order.
I dont have 4k right now, but im saving, but yes ill have the 3" up pipes, upgraded intercooler, and bigger turbo. and everything coated.
any word on when the manifold will ship out??

Nope - I didnt have a chance to run it down to him yet. I should be able to get down there this weekend or next week at the latest.

[kortik]

You ordered the TK.com kit right? Did you ask for a 3" up pipe from intercooler to TB?

is this necessary if you using PFC right? to got w/3" maf pipe. what about if you using Hydra which uses MAP instead of MAF?

[v3bahumut]

I'm pretty sure you only need the 3" MAFS pipe with the PFC.

[sillycar09]

Did you ask for a 3" up pipe from intercooler to TB?

boosted... my intercooler and air filter to turbo piping... all just 2"......
need to change bigger ? :(
I also plan to put a GT28RS soon..

[v3bahumut]

Thread jacking someone else's build thread to get your questions answered because no one is answering your thread is rude at the very least sillycar09.......




I would think you should be okay with 2" intercooler pipes.

[sillycar09]

okie :)
sorry for ask a question here :D
Good luck in your project youngxlos :)

[youngxlos]

okie :)
sorry for ask a question here :D
Good luck in your project youngxlos :)
no worries.
btw just got off the phone with Mike, guy that is working on it.
he said to give him a call Wednesday to check up on it, but it should be done by Friday :AF:
he said they were going to ship everything to get balanced on Monday, and they should get it back in 1-2days.
very exited!!!

[Jesse IL]

This should be a lesson to anyone needing machine work done. Find a reputable diesel machine shop in your area. Some farmer can't have his tractor down for months while the shop dicks around with his engine. Not only that, but diesel engines are held to much tighter tolerances than gasoline engines, so the quality of work should never be an issue.

Glad to hear that everything is coming along. By the way, do you have an engine stand to assemble all this on?

[WakeRider]

Thanks Jesse I will keep that in mind when I send out my engine to get done...
And glad to hear everything is coming along.

[youngxlos]

Machine shop wont be done till the 19th.
looks like the balance shop was slacking, the usual bs
anyways im shipping out my spare head to mwr
and i should be getting back a MWR head with valves, valve springs, and retainers.
so everything is looking great. I hope i have everything by the end of the month.

[Jesse IL]

As long as it isn't an air injection head.

[kortik]

for my spyder build I bought 2003 vibe gt engine which is the good choice
thats the only matrix/vibe 2zz model year w/out air injection holes.
I bet mwr uses them probably ask them if you didnt mentioned it to them .

[youngxlos]

yes i told them i would not take anything with air injection

[Jesse IL]

and i should be getting back a MWR head with valves, valve springs, and retainers.
so everything is looking great. I hope i have everything by the end of the month.
So you're getting MWR vales, springs and retainers in the head but you sold the Stage 3 cams? Why? You realize that if you want to go back to those cams, you'll have to find someone who knows how to set the valve clearances. Only people around here who could possibly do it is Toyota. You'll end up paying a ton of money for that. Also, without Stage 3's, your engine won't breathe nearly as well at high rpm. I'd SERIOUSLY reconsider getting the head setup with Stage 3's.

I can't believe this is about money? You were ready to spend $300+ the other day to replace a clutch with 1500 miles on it and you won't take cams for $750? I guarantee that you ultimately aren't going to be happy with your power level and will want to add cams later. So you'll have to buy them new again, then pay a bunch of money for the install. The thing about the Stage 3's is that due to the maximum lift, you may have to modify the spring seat to make them fit. I've also heard that you need to tip the valves because Toyota doesn't even make lash caps in the range necessary. MWR would have done all that for the price you're paying them. Now you're talking about tearing the head completely down if you want to install them again. Also, with stock cams, you just completely wasted money on the rest of the MWR valvetrain. You should have saved money and just ran a stock valvetrain. I'd seriously cancel your sale to rickpalace or if that's too late, get another set of cams from MWR.

Carlos, you want to know how your projects never meet your expectations and cost you tons of money? This is how. You make repeated bad or at best questionable decisions.

[youngxlos]

i see what you are saying but ill be using the same turbo you have.
your not using cams and you seem to make good power.
yes Ive made bad decision before, but I don't think getting a head from MWR is a bad decision, due to the fact that i didn't know if the head i got for $300 was in working condition.
besides the main focus is to have the car running at this point.
I don't think ill ever need cams, the only turbo car i know of having cams is bt16 and his pushing crazy numbers, and remember Ill have a DD manifold and with the same size turbo you have 300 WHP should be easy.
please understand I don't want anything to go wrong this time around.

oh and I'm not buying new valves, valves springs, and retainers, I sent out the ones i had already purchase for the first build.

[pitchblackgts]

hopefully this is coming along nicely, my supercharger is going in this week, so it'll be nice to ride with you guys given the chance to.

[Jesse IL]

i see what you are saying but ill be using the same turbo you have
So now you've switched your plans to the GT2871R? You know that my turbo doesn't really spool until 4000 rpm, right? It will probably be worse on your car with the low compression. If all you want is 300 whp, you're WAY better off with the smaller GT2860RS. In hindsight I sort of wish I had the smaller turbo. The car is laggier in the 3000-4000 rpm range than I'd like it to be.

bt216 is running a crazy large turbo. The cams aren't really the story there. The high rpm lift isn't the only benefit of the cams. The VVL switchover is also much better on the Pipers.

[youngxlos]

ill pick turbos when i have the money for the kit, at this point i just want to get the car to run.

[Jesse IL]

Sounds good. Personally I would have taken the cams over the intake manifold. Gains are about the same and the cams are cheaper. Plus, the intake is a bolt-on and could be added at any time.

[youngxlos]

Jesse do you really think i wont hit 300 whp without cams?
i mean you said i could just push more boost since i have the low compression pistons.
also i checked garrets site, and it says that turbo could make up to 360hp
does this mean 360hp at the max efficiency of the turbo? or 360hp depending on the cars mods?

[youngxlos]

well the car is pretty much ready
I swapped back to the stock pump for now, and also stock injectors.
the stock pump was very easy even though i had jacked up all the wires to install the old one i was able to buy the wire harness and it was a easy swap.

the injectors that was a different story, see when i install the 460cc injectors 2-3 years ago MWR didnt have a plug and play kit.
so i had to cut the stock harness and solder the injectors to the wiring harness.
so i was left with this....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/1255028345168.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/1255028400904.jpg
reason why i left little to no wires on the stock clips was because i needed as much wire as possible to make the other injectors work.
now the MWR harness makes everything super easy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/1255028132147.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/1255028388053.jpg
so i was left with no stock clips, I searched around and it turns out the 1zz injectors clips are the same, so my local friend Will that did a 2zzge swap on his GT sold me his wiring harness and i was able to cut the wires and clips and just join it all together
it turned out very well check it out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/1255289817510.jpg
as you can see on the left, that was all i had after i removed the 460cc injectors, the right wires are the 1zz wires
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/1255289837841.jpg
so i solder the old and new together and also used this wires that shrinks after head is applied to it. so it came out pretty nice
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/FxCam_1255298625441.jpg
close up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/FxCam_1255298642000.jpg
all done :gap:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/FxCam_1255298690455.jpg
what you guys think? :wiggle:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/celica/FxCam_1255298772385.jpg
last picture.
the engine bay waiting for its soon to be done engine

[Jesse IL]

For future reference, you can buy repair splices from Toyota. It comes with the pin and a length of wire.

[youngxlos]

oh damn that sucks!
I guess my local dealer sucks because i asked them and they said they didn't sell anything like that only the complete harness.

[EMSRacerCeli03]

thats how my car looks like right now lol

[youngxlos]

yeah man i hate to see her like that but soon she will be running again

[EMSRacerCeli03]

yeah tell me about it. hope soon for both of us

[Jesse IL]

oh damn that sucks!
I guess my local dealer sucks because i asked them and they said they didn't sell anything like that only the complete harness.
I get all my parts from Elmhurst Toyota. They're one of the site sponsors of Supraforums and know what they're talking about. You can email them at eparts@elmhursttoyota.com

For repair splices, every single connector on the car has a number on it. You need to find that number and give it to parts. With that number, they can look up the correct repair splice for it.

[youngxlos]

Thanks Jesse
but I already solder the wires together, but its great info for any one else who had to jack up the wires to install injectors

[youngxlos]

I spoke to Matt from MWR today, he should be done next week and ship it out the head.
1-2 weeks ill have everything here and ill just have to assemble it with Jesse!
I cant wait :headbang:

[SoxFanGTS]

Good luck with the cars Carlos and Byron, you guys are gonna be driving beastly Celis when all is said and done

[youngxlos]

thanks bro.
I am just glad i didn't reach the 3 year mark =)

[EMSRacerCeli03]

thanks bro.
I am just glad i didn't reach the 3 year mark =)
__________________'
yeah thats a good thing, cant wait intill yours is done, ha mine just got to MWR so i got about the same time to wait. Good luck hope they hussle

[youngxlos]

yeah they got a lot of work.
they started working on Mikes complete rebuild the other day also.
looks like they are making that $$$$

[Celicasaur]

Thanks Jesse
but I already solder the wires together, but its great info for any one else who had to jack up the wires to install injectors

Yep, like me! #4 doesn't sit properly and needs a tie-clip to hold the damn thing in place. I need to order one of those clips as well now... :)

[adosdrummer]

Sounds good. Personally I would have taken the cams over the intake manifold. Gains are about the same and the cams are cheaper. Plus, the intake is a bolt-on and could be added at any time.

the manifold made about 30whp. i dont think cams make that much. and u dont need cams/port work/ or IM with boost. all u have to do is push more psi. yes it helps.. but if money is the issue just push 3 more psi. problem solved.

[adosdrummer]

you asked about important gauges.
get a J&S safeguard and there there knock monitor gauge. its an led and will tell u wich cyl is knocking.. and the j&s is a great investment to the safty of your motor

[youngxlos]

ill probably add the j&s safeguard later down the road.
the car is not even boosted yet, and wont be for a while.
i have to save up $4000 so that might take a while!

[youngxlos]

the manifold made about 30whp. i dont think cams make that much. and u dont need cams/port work/ or IM with boost. all u have to do is push more psi. yes it helps.. but if money is the issue just push 3 more psi. problem solved.
i know boosted cars do use cams, IM manifold, and port work but that is for crazy drag cars.
mine is dd and i don't want crazy power.
I'm sure Jesse knows what he is talking about and i do feel stupid for not listening to him once again, but i don't think ill need the cams, besides with 350whp the car should keep me happy for a couple of years.

[lVlemphizStylez]

with 350whp the car should keep me happy for a couple of years.

yea just take that phrase and put "with xxx whp"...and you got the biggest lie ever, it'll never seem like enough

[youngxlos]

LOL i know what you mean Menphiz i do, but 350 is probably the most the GT2860RS can put out, and I don't want to start breaking trans making more power

[youngxlos]

called the machine shop today, he said to come pick it up Wednesday.
one weird thing I heard when i was talking to him was, "yeah i got everything back from ballos"..... ballos is the old machine shop that screwed me side ways.........
WTF!

[WakeRider]

in reference to your parts or someone elses lol?

[youngxlos]

looks like they had ballos balance everything.
i just hope is not that jerk off Steward that did the work. he is a total FOOL!

[many]

:faint:

[youngxlos]

:faint:
tell me about it, if i knew this machine shop works with Ballos i would of just sent everything to MWR.
either way Jesse and I are going to open up the block to make sure things are ok and torqued correctly.

[TRlPPlN]

ballos is the old machine shop that screwed me side ways

YIKES...hope you dont have to take 2 steps back just to go forward. you've done it too many times in the past man.

[blacktsport]

That's not good news dude. They FUBAR'd the last one, let's hope that they've improved a little since then, plus at least you know to check this thing over first. :thumbup:

[Celicasaur]

:ugh: and so it begins...part II :ugh:

I would be direct with them and demand that you have something in writing to warrant the work that's been done for you. Be hard ass and take a pair of pliers and a blowtorch if you need to. You'll definately want some form of safety net if things to end up going sour again.

[Jesse IL]

I wouldn't be worried about it. The parts they screwed up the last time were the machining steps and the fact that they simply took your parts and then put lord knows what in there. Most of the issues were in the head, where there were tooling marks in the combustion chamber, they took your valves and put generic ones in there, put bearings in that weren't yours, etc. The block was not Ballos's fault. Basically all wet sleeves have turned out badly. Like I said, the extremely poor porting work, complete lack of cleaning and mystery parts were what concerned me. Since they don't have your head and there is no block machining, plus it's a brand new block, you shouldn't have these issues this time. It would be hard for them to screw anything up when they're simply balancing the rotating assembly.

When you pick up the parts, don't be rude but explain to the guy that you had an extremely bad experience with Ballos, which was why you had looked for a new shop in the first place. Just be straightforward with the guy and say that you're going to have a friend who is experienced with these engines tear it down and inspect everything. I had planned on that anyways. The one thing I would make sure you ask him is about the rod bearing clearances. With the MWR bearings, they should have had to size the rods to get the clearances correct. I'd ask to see the beginning and final clearance specs before taking delivery of the parts. They should also have measurements for piston to wall clearance and ring gap.

Also, make sure you call Slava at least the day before you go up there so he can put your midpipe outside before he leaves for work in the morning.

[youngxlos]

thanks Jesse makes me feel a little better to have you around, I'm going to call the machine shop in a little to see if he is done, then ill contact Slava.
also i got a stock air box on the way so everything should be good.
after this just wait on the MWR head that should be here no later than next week.

[DYI01]

Wow Carlos, I don't come here for a while and you decide to go turbo. I hope everything works out for you this time around.

[youngxlos]

Wow Carlos, I don't come here for a while and you decide to go turbo. I hope everything works out for you this time around.
Dan!!!!!! dude where you been at???
you still got the Celica??

[DYI01]

I still have the Celica. I just swapped injectors and put on a higher boost pulley. I needed to brush the dust off of my PFC tuning and came in to do some reading.

[youngxlos]

on my way to pick up the block.
they gave me the invoice and its $600
is it just me or does that look like a **** load of money for just measuring things and probably machining the rod to get the rod bearing in?
and if ballos did the balancing i really dont feel like giving them 1 more cent.
ill keep you guys updated.

[Jesse IL]

Labor is probably $100/hour or so. Amount sounds fair to me. Gapipng rings, sizing rods, balancing the rotating assembly. That's not a small amount of work.

[youngxlos]

Labor is probably $100/hour or so. Amount sounds fair to me. Gapipng rings, sizing rods, balancing the rotating assembly. That's not a small amount of work.
well i had to suck it up and pay.
good thing Steward didn't work on the balancing, so everything seems to be great, ill have pictures later today.
oh btw he said the crankshaft needed a bit of work, so anyone getting their cranks done by MWR you should always get it balance.
Jesse give me a call when you get a chance.
i called you 3 times and no answer :wtc:

[Jesse IL]

I rarely have my personal cell phone on me during the day when I'm working. The last time you called, I was on the other line talking to someone. I'll call on my way to hockey.

[youngxlos]

well I'm actually very happy with the work that was done, it was definitely worth the $600.
here is a nice picture of one of the rods.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0047edit.jpg
he had to shave a little of the rods to make everything balanced, i also see a few marks on the crankshaft so i guess i can say the block was blue printed right?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0053edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0055edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0059edit.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0060edit.jpg

waiting on MWR to ship my head then this thing can finally be put together

[evilthorne]

sex!

[vegeta4ss]

looks good. dumb question, did you have the block painted black like that or is that how they are sold now?

[youngxlos]

I painted it, took 2 days!!!!!!!
I pretty much spent 1 day masking everything, that's why it looks so good.

[many]

Looking good bro!

[Gootz311]

nice, good call on painting it black.

[Jesse IL]

Looks like they did a quality job, Carlos. Looks like most of the hard part is done.

[Celicasaur]

:thumbup:

[Boosted Yotaman]

I cant wait to get my engine back!!!!

[blacktsport]

That looks the sh!t :gap: Very sexy looking lump! Glad it looks OK and hope you get your money's worth out of them this time around. Very nice.

[youngxlos]

That looks the sh!t :gap: Very sexy looking lump! Glad it looks OK and hope you get your money's worth out of them this time around. Very nice.
LMAO first you say it looks like sh!t then you call it sexy.
ummm sexy lump of sh1t huh?

[TRlPPlN]

^^^maybe he meant that's the sh!t? anyways hope this time around everything works out dude.

[youngxlos]

thanks bro, whats going on with you car?

[blacktsport]

:gap: yeah as in 'that's the sh!t' lol, it looks very nice bud. Now get to building! hahaha

Seriously now, very best of luck with this one :thumbup:

[WakeRider]

:drool:
so i am uber jealous right now =p

[youngxlos]

sigh.
just waiting on MWR to ship the head out.
but it looks like they are going to be out of town till the 10TH!!!!!!!!!!
damn it!

[EMSRacerCeli03]

yea for the tv show they told me they wont be done with mine till 13th hope they hurry, its such an inconvenience

[youngxlos]

yea for the tv show they told me they wont be done with mine till 13th hope they hurry, its such an inconvenience
yeah it sucks!

[TRlPPlN]

thanks bro, whats going on with you car?

my car is almost done with repairs. during tuning somehow the power steering line got burnt and started to leak. as soon as i pick it up from jeff back to finish my partial throttle tuning and i should be done. so far my numbers are 245 whp 196tq. nothing huge but def a big improvement from being n/a bolt ons.

i hope the year 2010 is your year man. that's what im hoping for your car. im trying to finish everything this year and take a breather for 2010.

[youngxlos]

my car is almost done with repairs. during tuning somehow the power steering line got burnt and started to leak. as soon as i pick it up from jeff back to finish my partial throttle tuning and i should be done. so far my numbers are 245 whp 196tq. nothing huge but def a big improvement from being n/a bolt ons.

i hope the year 2010 is your year man. that's what im hoping for your car. im trying to finish everything this year and take a breather for 2010.
yeah man same here

[pitchblackgts]

yeah man same here

I been saying "I'll be done next year" for the past three years lol my beer offer is still on the table.

[02celica]

. so far my numbers are 245 whp 196tq. nothing huge but def a big improvement from being n/a bolt ons.

Not much farther anymore now with the DD IM.

Good luck with the build though, I know you've been plagued with crazy **** and shops with the last build.

[trdmsprts27]

your engine looks good bro, looking forward to see what itll do once its all back togethor

[youngxlos]

yeah ill def enjoy the fi power.

[TRlPPlN]

Not much farther anymore now with the DD IM

at this point, i just want to finish up with the car and take a break from spending $$$ on the car. also, i dont think the DD IM can take n/a platform to high tq numbers.

sorry carlos on the jack thread. let's go back on topic.

[youngxlos]

oh no we can go off topic while we wait on sh1t like the MWR head :( witch is the only thing delaying me now :marky:
the DD mani works great, it improves flow by a few CFM so im my case its going to help me, its weird how the dynos don't show much torque improvement though.
when i did my dyno back when i had the sh1ty engine my car managed to get 140ftlbs :AF:
and that was with less than 1k on the engine.
i believe the key is the head, we most do a better job at getting those heads ported, and right now Dave is the only one with enough r&d to do so.
i have faith on all the n/a guys but to be honest i dought they will see anything above 240whp
the short runner many wont give them that much more hp maybe 5 or more.
im just talking right now though i cant know for sure, we will just have to wait and see the results from Manys dyno

[TRlPPlN]

^^^ wow 140ftlbs is actually pretty good for a 2zz. i wonder what would be the highest number of tq a 2zz can reach on a n/a set up.

[Mido]

i'm frustrated from the wait already, how can you not be Carlos? :S :S :S !

[youngxlos]

^^^ wow 140ftlbs is actually pretty good for a 2zz. i wonder what would be the highest number of tq a 2zz can reach on a n/a set up.
yeah ill try and see if i can find the dyno, the thing is my head was ported, and i mean ported like crazy, i paid this dude $700 for a port and polish he had no flow number but either way the dyno showed 140ftlbs
like i said will have to wait for Manys numbers

[youngxlos]

i'm frustrated from the wait already, how can you not be Carlos? :S :S :S !
believe me im going crazy, i was at the track yesterday.
crushed my heart not to have my baby up and running :(

[Jesse IL]

Looks like you've been waiting around a month so far for the MWR head. Not surprising. They always say that this stuff is in stock, but then when you order it months go by.

[youngxlos]

Jesse quick question, im not sure if you would know the answer but if i go with the GT2860RS and since you say ill have to run about 20+psi meaning ill have to get the return line system, would this be an issue when emissions come around???
because Tranmk is using one and from what i saw that day when i was changing his fuel pump, MWR doesnt use one of the main sensors so do you think it would throw a CEL if the stock ECU was on?

[Jesse IL]

It will have no impact on emissions.

[youngxlos]

umm that sucks.

[Jesse IL]

I think you're confused. There won't be any problems.

[youngxlos]

lol your right i was confuse.
the good news is that i found a place to install the engine when it done =)
i was going to do it at work, but we moved to a new smaller warehouse so no can do :(
MWR head should be here next week.

[youngxlos]

:sadpace:
still waiting on MWR, ill call them today before they close to see whats the status.
it seems like they have a machine shop that likes to slack off :thumbdown
on a good note i got my oil temp gauge.
http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy292/youngxlos2/DSC_0001.jpg
http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy292/youngxlos2/DSC_0002.jpg
im going to have this gauge the air/fuel gauge and boost gauge all in the top compartment of the center console.

[EMSRacerCeli03]

still nothing? my block was done last week on the 10th weird

[youngxlos]

still nothing? my block was done last week on the 10th weird
Block and head require different things done.
But I'm sure they put top $$$ projects ahead even though I already paid them.
Ill call them in an hour to see what's the deal

[Jesse IL]

I'd be lying if I said I were surprised.

[youngxlos]

I'd be lying if I said I were surprised.
yeah
question, what do you think of the AEM TRU gauge/boost controller???
i kind of want to finish the gauge pod so i wont have to take it out when i buy the turbo kit. i want to have all 3 gauges in and set so i wont have to mess with it.

[youngxlos]

Question
where is the best place to mount the sensor for the oil pressure???
the Moroso pan has a upper bung and a lower one, witch one is best???
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/1254421115970edit.jpg

[blacktsport]

Should be the same reading no matter which one you choose I'd imagine. Which is easiest in terms of mounting/working on? :shrugs:

Moroso pan is gorgeous too, I likey!

[youngxlos]

thanks for the help!

[many]

where is the best place to mount the sensor for the oil pressure???
The only good sensor you could use is a temperature sensor for the oil on the pan.....for the oil pressure you need to get the readings after the oil pump, which in this case is before the oil filter!

[Mido]

any news from MWR? :S

[youngxlos]

Many I know that,I was just wondering if there was a difference between the two bungs moroso put on the pan,since one is higher than the other one.

Mido, Matt told me to call today to see if they got it back from the machine shop,Fingers cross.
If not then I might go with Tranmk to pick up his car witch is at mwr, I would rather do that I would hate for the head to get damage during shipping. So ill update this later.

[many]

The Higher one is better for the oil return line....the lower is better for the temperature probe!

[youngxlos]

The Higher one is better for the oil return line....the lower is better for the temperature probe!
thanks that's what i wanted to know.

[youngxlos]

got the gauges in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/2009-11-27153640.jpg
small video
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/th_video-2009-11-27-15-35-59.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/?action=view&current=video-2009-11-27-15-35-59.flv)

[Celicasaur]

wow, your engine holds it's afr at a steady 14.9 like that when it's running?!?? :wtf: first time I've ever seen that (if of course, your engine is on, which i assume it must be to have gotten the reading :shrugs: )

[evilthorne]

Yah that is pretty crazy. Mine is all over the place, from 13.9 up to 16 plus at idle

[miswhite]

if i remeber correct he doesnt even have an engine in the car??? lol at least i know the head is still at mwr right???

[youngxlos]

if i remeber correct he doesnt even have an engine in the car??? lol at least i know the head is still at mwr right???
yes you are correct, the head is still at MWR.
I might actually get a chance to go pick it up, if Tranmk goes to pick up his car on the 11th of next month.
The WBo2 sensor was not even connected so im not sure why it reads 14.9
but the temperature sensor was connected and outside so it was reading the correct temperature.

MWR said they might be done next week, who knows.
I also just remember i have to add a bung on the stock exhaust pipe so i can use the WBo2 gauge since ill have to have both o2 sensors connected so i wont get a CEL.
at least Im making progress.
Jesse when you see this give me a call, i have a few questions to ask.
its holiday time so i didn't want to call and bug you.
when you have time call me.

[youngxlos]

finally good news, MWR called me the head is done and it just shipped out,should be here Friday.
I hope Jesse has time to come over and help me put this together and hopefully ill be up and running in 2-3 weeks.

[miswhite]

sweet news
has your dd mani came in yet ?
your gonna have a beast of a car

[youngxlos]

Not yet, I have to make one last payment. I'm trying to do a before and after dyno so I wont put the manifold in right away

[Smaay]

where is the best place to mount the sensor for the oil pressure???
the Moroso pan has a upper bung and a lower one, witch one is best???

neither, there is no pressure in the pan. you need to get pressure from where the stock sensor is. put a sandwich adapter plate in there.

[youngxlos]

Sorry i meant oil temp

[Jesse IL]

neither, there is no pressure in the pan. you need to get pressure from where the stock sensor is. put a sandwich adapter plate in there.
You can also tee off the stock sensor location. This is what I use:

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/edl-76574_w.jpg
Stock sensor goes in one port, NPT plug next to it, turbo oil feed on the other side with oil pressure feed line next to it. For safety sake (due to weight), I'd run a hardline and just put the pressure sender in the car. I'd run the boost gauge the same way.

[Gootz311]

Did you tell mike to tell the people at mwr to hurry the hell up ?? haha

[youngxlos]

Did you tell mike to tell the people at mwr to hurry the hell up ?? haha
LOL
the head should be here tomorrow Frank.
see you Saturday

[pitchblackgts]

I like the gauge setup I may have to do the same with mine as they are all wired there already.

[youngxlos]

UPDATE!
so I've been busy with this gauge pod, so I really dont like all that empty space on the center console compartment, so I decided to custom make a gauge pod that would fit inside the compartment and hold the 3 gauges.
its not done yet, and not perfect but I'm working on it.
I made it out of fiberglass.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/2009-11-28014906.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/2009-11-28014914.jpg

after a few days cutting out the holes for the gauges it looks like this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/DSC_0114.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/DSC_0112.jpg
i still need to add some fiberglass on the front. i made the cut out with cardboard i couldnt think of anything else that would be easy to cut, so i used that.

enough of that, here is the good stuff now.
after about a month of waiting on MWR, the head finally arrived today, let me tell you that the month i waited was well worth it.
the head is freaking amazing, it looks like they also coated it with something, take a look.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0138.jpg
The lungs and heart of the beast :gap:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0139.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0144.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0145.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0146.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0149.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0143.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0150.jpg
its good to know the parts i sent out are actually on the head, not like the last a$$holes that build it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0152.jpg
no flash
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0158.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0161.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0163.jpg

so pretty much everything i need is here, Jesse give me a call when you can.
more updates soon.

[kortik]

nice. finally but I am still wating LOL

[youngxlos]

getting ready for assembly
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/DSC_0164.jpg
dont worry Jesse we are definitely not going to assemble the engine in my room, way too much dust up here, we can just use the basement.

[pitchblackgts]

looking good man!!!!

[youngxlos]

almost ready for paint.
before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0490.jpg
after
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0491.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0492.jpg
just have to finish the exhaust side, and make sure i cover up the injectors holes then spray it semi gloss black to match the block :)

[Magusownz]

Wow your head looks ****ing amazing no homo sh1t. If I ever get it done mwr will be the ppl to build the head for me for sure they know what they are doing.

[blacktsport]

Very very nice! I want it :)

[i_wonder]

how much did MWR charge you for labor on the head?

[MidnightMac]

:hitit:

[youngxlos]

how much did MWR charge you for labor on the head?
umm the bill says $451

[pitchblackgts]

big baller!!!! lol

[Ddragon]

I can't wait to see the final product Carlos! Awesome work so far!

[youngxlos]

So I spoke to Jesse last night,looks like the week after xmas we are going to assemble the engine.
I might have the engine in before 2010

[youngxlos]

:drool:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0495.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0496.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0494.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/block/DSC_0493.jpg
:drool:

[noodles4u]

:hitit:

that is gorgeous.

[youngxlos]

thanks

[Gtsjeg04]

Did they port that thing out? Looks real nice painted black.

[youngxlos]

Did they port that thing out? Looks real nice painted black.
no porting, not looking for 500+whp just 350whp :gap:

[youngxlos]

any ideas on color for the valve cover???
so far engine, head, and trans are semi-gloss black.
btw the valve cover is painted bronze right now, and the stock intake manifold is gun metal give me some ideas!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/youngxlos/engineshoot.jpg