BRAKE conversion frozen bolts, any workarounds?

[TRD01GT]

I have recently purchased a full rear drum to disc conversion set for my GT, problem I encountered is that the 2 bolts - toe adjustment and one next to it are both frozen solid. I used air hammer, gallons of rust penetrant, heavy hammers and they won't budge. I decided to put everything back toghether before I completely destroy the bolts, and ordered brand new ones, cost me 24$ from dealer. Reason I ordered new ones is that I decided to put a torch on these bolts and cut them away if necessary. Banging out the hub and the bearing didn't work, its frozen solid too. My conversion set came with knuckles, so I'm not worried about melting the bushings. Now knowing that there are many people here who have done this before, do you have any advice for me on how to get these bolts free? Or any trick way to knock the hub out? Thanks for any help!

[WakeRider]

bigger hammer
:chuckles:

[danno]

Ah I can help u now for once TRD01?? I had the same issue, except I drove through a few canadian winters so those babys were seizes solid! And canadian toyota dealerships cost on the bolts were easily doubled! Chances are yours are seized too, not frozen. BUT STOP BEATING IT IT WONT WORK YOU WILL JUST WRECK SOMETHING!!

I did the whole beating thing on one side and I ended up bending the bracket on the lower suspension arm right over the axle hub knuckles!!!!!!! That means a replacement hard to find and not cheap 400.00 toyota, I luckily found one at the wreckers for cheap!

My discs came with axle hubs as well So I didnt need them either>After days of trying to remove these bolts everything was tried/ I even attempted to drill out the cam bolt with no success!!

So the trick was completely disassembling the rear suspension. It really isnt that tough of a job to remove, but once you do you have easy access to the bolts.
The lower suspension arm will be attached after removal so it makes things a little awkward, but you can get the bolts standing vertically now so gravity can let the penetrant go to work a little a liitle easier.
If you can get the arm in a vice or just someone holding you can then move the axle-hub back and forth trying to work the penetrant in more.
This worked for one side but the other I had to take to my buddys work and he just cut the bolts right out!! You may have to go that route if you have beat them so much!!

Hopefully you never wrecked nuthin sounds like your ok if you have already reassembled,

Good luck and keep me posted I can help with torque specs and directions for removal of lower arm if you need . Trust me this will be the easiest route.

[TRD01GT]

Nah, I'm not pulling the lower arms out for this, and since I ordered the bolts already, I decided I'll just cut the old ones off with a torch and put brand new ones in. No need to pull the arms out if I'm not sparing the bolts. Thanks for your input though

Hopefully you never wrecked nuthin sounds like your ok if you have already reassembled

lol nothing wrecked, just mushroomed the bolt, but I got one positive thing out of it, I couldn't adjust my right rear toe before because it was frozen, now I can :gap:

[TRD01GT]

hey danno, since you've done this before I have a question, I got a non ABS GT and the assambleys I have for the swap are GT-S rear brakes with ABS. Do I need a proportioning valve or an upgraded brake master cylinder for this or should it be a direct swap?

[danno]

No its a direct swap you just wont have abs in the rear,just dissconnect plugs should probably cover them with something too. weird mine has abs its a gt too.

[TRD01GT]

And you have no trouble with brakes at all? I read somewhere that you need a proportioning valve if your car has abs... I guess not...

[danno]

I highly suggest removing the lower susp arm this will make your job much easier and safer. It only took maybe 15mins to remove lower suspension arms!! just 3 bolts/ 2 actually and 1 nut. Also a cutting torch is going to create alot of heat after cutting through causing a risk on drivers side since its very close to fuel tank. You also risk damaging lower susp arm.
My buddy cut through the axle hub knucks first for easier access to cut bolts out.
And he did it with a cutting disc.

Why struggle cutting on your back and knees when you can work comfortably?? Just my opinion.

[TRD01GT]

no back and knees, I have a lift to work on, and I could probably use the cutting wheel too.. I have one... with the lower arms, it is 3 more rusted bolts to take out, 3x more work lol

[danno]

And you have no trouble with brakes at all? I read somewhere that you need a proportioning valve if your car has abs... I guess not...

You may want to look into that, but I have never heard of it. I have abs though so dont think I need that?? I havnt got to try my brakes yet cuz Im waitin for inserts for my rear sway bar remember.. I think if you want abs in rear you may need proportioning valve.

[danno]

Those 3 bolts come out much easier I assure you!
Ah a lift is my next investment. with that I could remove lower susp arms in 5 mins,lol.

[TRD01GT]

lol lucky for me I work in a car shop, so that lift is not my investment, but haveing a personal one would be so nice...

[danno]

Those 3 bolts are much cheaper too if you wish to replace.