Shizuma
04-16-2010, 06:22 PM
I get pm's constantly asking about details on how you mate a q45 throttle body to the OEM manifold. The short answer is: it's really not that hard. First off you're going to need:
* A q45 throttle body
* .5-.75" aluminum plate with an Area>/= to the total face area of the throttle body
* A OEM q45 TB gasket
* Machinist's dye/Sharpie
* A TIG or someone that can
* The stock components of the IM/TB assembly
* Rubber hose
* Brass fittings or -an fittings.
* Metal cutting saw
* Something to do finishing porting work (dye grinder, dremal, files, etc) and the appropriate bits
* A little wire
* Soldering Gun
So first off you're going to notice that the q45 throttle body has an extra "cam" on it's throttle linkage. Supposedly this is to make the opening of the throttle plate smoother and result in less "jerky" acceleration in the q45. I removed this and the secondary spring so that I was left with just one cam, one spring, and one follower arm. You can choose to leave all this together if you don't want to deal with it, I just took the ancillary stuff off as I figured less moving parts=less play in the system as a whole.
Next you're going to want to get your q45 TB gasket and lay it down on the your Al plate. Now I don't know where you got your Al from, but mine was a good chunk of change, so when you're laying out your design, make sure you put it in a corner of the plate or something so you don't end up wasting a bunch of material. Position the gasket on the plate so that you have about 1" of room on all sides. Now take some machinist's dye and layout the gasket on the Al plate. If you don't have machinist's dye you can simply trace out the inner bore and mark the locations of the bolt holes with a sharpie.
Now you're going to cut out a square around the template you just made, again making sure to leave an 1" on all sides. BE MINDFUL OF WHAT YOU CUT WITH!!! Don't use something ridiculous like a dremal tool or a saws-all, this is thick aluminum and it will grab!
After you get your flange cut out, lay it against the OEM manifold and get an idea of where it needs to be. The q45 obviously has a MUCH larger diameter than the 2ZZ throttle body, so you're going to have to align the flange so that when you start boring out the OEM hole, you don't cut through the manifold.
Once you have the flange where you want it, put a tack down on each side of the flange/IM interface and recheck to make sure it's still where you want it. Then go ahead and finish welding it on. WORK SLOWLY AND MOVE FROM SIDE TO SIDE. Al heats very easily and although you're working with some pretty thick stuff you still don't want to warp the mating surfaces.
After it's cooled down, go ahead and bore out the hole going into the manifold and smooth out any rough transitions that may occur in between the throat of the original 2zz TB bore and the inside of the manifold.
Next, drill and tap the holes for the 4 mounting studs for the q45 throttle body on your flange. You don't want to go any deeper than the combined thickness of the OEM TB flange and the one you just welded on or you're going to have sealing issues. Then hand-tighten the studs into the flange.
Go ahead and slide the q45 TB on and make sure everything looks good. If you're good to go, then locktite the studs in and tighten them down.
While the studs are setting, you can go ahead and make your IAVC plate. At idle, the compute uses the IAVC (Idle Air Control Valve) to move air from intake, past the closed throttle plate, and into the intake manifold. You could retrofit the q45 TB itself to incorporate the 2zz IAVC system, but this way is MUCH easier and allows easy cleaning of the IAVC when/if its needed.
The process is similar to what you did with the q45 throttle body. Lay down some machinist's dye on the OEM IAVC and layout the part. Again, if you don't have machinist's dye you can use a sharpie, don't forget to mark the location of the mounting bolts.
If you look closely at the IAVC itself, you'll see it basically consists of two ports with a partition in between them. One port (the intake) is fed from a hole in the 2zz throttle body throat just fore of the butterfly. The second port (the exhaust) is released from a similar port just aft of the butterfly. So what we need to do is be able to feed the intake, and pass air through it to the exhaust while using the shortest route possible.
Now, cut out the OUTLINE of the template you traced on the Al. Then mark the location of the two ports on your flange. What you're going to want to do is put a barb, or hose end, or small piece of pipe in the middle of where each port is so that air can pass through the flange and into the IAVC. I used some brass pipe fittings and an NPT tap to drill and tap the flange to feed the two ports. Make sure when you're laying out your holes that you leave enough room between them so that you have enough room to insert your pipe thread/fitting/whatever.
Now go ahead and drill out the holes for the mounting bolts and tap them appropriately (I can't remember what the metric thread is off hand). Then, take some gasket maker and put it between the IAVC and the flange as well as the threads on the pipe fitting or whatever you're using. Then figure out where you're going to get/feed the air to. For the intake, you just need to pull air pre-throttle plate, ie: somewhere in the intake stream. For the exhaust, I found the easiest place was to T-it into the port on the IM that the breather port usually feeds into.
Now, go ahead and put the q45 TB on the studs and tighten it down. Open the throttle plate and feel around where the IM meets the TB. If you feel any ridges or imperfections, mark the area with machinists dye (or a sharpie) and remove the TB to clean it up.
Once you have the TB mounted on the IM and the IAVC routed and located, the last thing you need to do is space the throttle bracket off the IM so that it lines up with the linkage of the q45 TB. Since the q45 TB is physically larger and therefore wider than the 2zz TB, you have to space the bracket away from the IM so it doesn't bind. The easiest way to do this is to get some metric threaded rod, cut it to an appropriate length, and then put a connector on the end to bolt the bracket to. (See the pics)
The last bit of welding comes in on the IM on the small nipple on the plenum. If you have a CAI, you probably have a rubber stopper over this guy anyway. The problem is, is that the larger throttle linkage of the q45 TB hits this nipple before it can open all the way. You can get around this by using a thicker flange on the TB/IM junction, but I used 1" Al and was hard pressed to find anything much thicker. Anyway, all you have to do is shave off the nipple and weld up the hole. After you weld it up you may find that the throttle linkage still hits the plenum a bit near full open throttle. If this is the case, all you need to do is shave a little bit off the outer edge of the plenum, just be careful not to go too deep or you'll cut through it.
Once all this is done you're pretty much through. The only thing left is wire up the TPS sensor and calibrate it. If you go into the ECU section you can use the wiring diagram provided there. If you have a PFC, calibrating the TPS is as easy as going into the Commander's sensor check function and moving the TPS until it reads within the correct values. If you don't have a PFC, then you'll have to use a multimeter.
http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0871.JPG
http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0870.JPG
http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0869.JPG
http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0860.JPG
* A q45 throttle body
* .5-.75" aluminum plate with an Area>/= to the total face area of the throttle body
* A OEM q45 TB gasket
* Machinist's dye/Sharpie
* A TIG or someone that can
* The stock components of the IM/TB assembly
* Rubber hose
* Brass fittings or -an fittings.
* Metal cutting saw
* Something to do finishing porting work (dye grinder, dremal, files, etc) and the appropriate bits
* A little wire
* Soldering Gun
So first off you're going to notice that the q45 throttle body has an extra "cam" on it's throttle linkage. Supposedly this is to make the opening of the throttle plate smoother and result in less "jerky" acceleration in the q45. I removed this and the secondary spring so that I was left with just one cam, one spring, and one follower arm. You can choose to leave all this together if you don't want to deal with it, I just took the ancillary stuff off as I figured less moving parts=less play in the system as a whole.
Next you're going to want to get your q45 TB gasket and lay it down on the your Al plate. Now I don't know where you got your Al from, but mine was a good chunk of change, so when you're laying out your design, make sure you put it in a corner of the plate or something so you don't end up wasting a bunch of material. Position the gasket on the plate so that you have about 1" of room on all sides. Now take some machinist's dye and layout the gasket on the Al plate. If you don't have machinist's dye you can simply trace out the inner bore and mark the locations of the bolt holes with a sharpie.
Now you're going to cut out a square around the template you just made, again making sure to leave an 1" on all sides. BE MINDFUL OF WHAT YOU CUT WITH!!! Don't use something ridiculous like a dremal tool or a saws-all, this is thick aluminum and it will grab!
After you get your flange cut out, lay it against the OEM manifold and get an idea of where it needs to be. The q45 obviously has a MUCH larger diameter than the 2ZZ throttle body, so you're going to have to align the flange so that when you start boring out the OEM hole, you don't cut through the manifold.
Once you have the flange where you want it, put a tack down on each side of the flange/IM interface and recheck to make sure it's still where you want it. Then go ahead and finish welding it on. WORK SLOWLY AND MOVE FROM SIDE TO SIDE. Al heats very easily and although you're working with some pretty thick stuff you still don't want to warp the mating surfaces.
After it's cooled down, go ahead and bore out the hole going into the manifold and smooth out any rough transitions that may occur in between the throat of the original 2zz TB bore and the inside of the manifold.
Next, drill and tap the holes for the 4 mounting studs for the q45 throttle body on your flange. You don't want to go any deeper than the combined thickness of the OEM TB flange and the one you just welded on or you're going to have sealing issues. Then hand-tighten the studs into the flange.
Go ahead and slide the q45 TB on and make sure everything looks good. If you're good to go, then locktite the studs in and tighten them down.
While the studs are setting, you can go ahead and make your IAVC plate. At idle, the compute uses the IAVC (Idle Air Control Valve) to move air from intake, past the closed throttle plate, and into the intake manifold. You could retrofit the q45 TB itself to incorporate the 2zz IAVC system, but this way is MUCH easier and allows easy cleaning of the IAVC when/if its needed.
The process is similar to what you did with the q45 throttle body. Lay down some machinist's dye on the OEM IAVC and layout the part. Again, if you don't have machinist's dye you can use a sharpie, don't forget to mark the location of the mounting bolts.
If you look closely at the IAVC itself, you'll see it basically consists of two ports with a partition in between them. One port (the intake) is fed from a hole in the 2zz throttle body throat just fore of the butterfly. The second port (the exhaust) is released from a similar port just aft of the butterfly. So what we need to do is be able to feed the intake, and pass air through it to the exhaust while using the shortest route possible.
Now, cut out the OUTLINE of the template you traced on the Al. Then mark the location of the two ports on your flange. What you're going to want to do is put a barb, or hose end, or small piece of pipe in the middle of where each port is so that air can pass through the flange and into the IAVC. I used some brass pipe fittings and an NPT tap to drill and tap the flange to feed the two ports. Make sure when you're laying out your holes that you leave enough room between them so that you have enough room to insert your pipe thread/fitting/whatever.
Now go ahead and drill out the holes for the mounting bolts and tap them appropriately (I can't remember what the metric thread is off hand). Then, take some gasket maker and put it between the IAVC and the flange as well as the threads on the pipe fitting or whatever you're using. Then figure out where you're going to get/feed the air to. For the intake, you just need to pull air pre-throttle plate, ie: somewhere in the intake stream. For the exhaust, I found the easiest place was to T-it into the port on the IM that the breather port usually feeds into.
Now, go ahead and put the q45 TB on the studs and tighten it down. Open the throttle plate and feel around where the IM meets the TB. If you feel any ridges or imperfections, mark the area with machinists dye (or a sharpie) and remove the TB to clean it up.
Once you have the TB mounted on the IM and the IAVC routed and located, the last thing you need to do is space the throttle bracket off the IM so that it lines up with the linkage of the q45 TB. Since the q45 TB is physically larger and therefore wider than the 2zz TB, you have to space the bracket away from the IM so it doesn't bind. The easiest way to do this is to get some metric threaded rod, cut it to an appropriate length, and then put a connector on the end to bolt the bracket to. (See the pics)
The last bit of welding comes in on the IM on the small nipple on the plenum. If you have a CAI, you probably have a rubber stopper over this guy anyway. The problem is, is that the larger throttle linkage of the q45 TB hits this nipple before it can open all the way. You can get around this by using a thicker flange on the TB/IM junction, but I used 1" Al and was hard pressed to find anything much thicker. Anyway, all you have to do is shave off the nipple and weld up the hole. After you weld it up you may find that the throttle linkage still hits the plenum a bit near full open throttle. If this is the case, all you need to do is shave a little bit off the outer edge of the plenum, just be careful not to go too deep or you'll cut through it.
Once all this is done you're pretty much through. The only thing left is wire up the TPS sensor and calibrate it. If you go into the ECU section you can use the wiring diagram provided there. If you have a PFC, calibrating the TPS is as easy as going into the Commander's sensor check function and moving the TPS until it reads within the correct values. If you don't have a PFC, then you'll have to use a multimeter.
http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0871.JPG
http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0870.JPG
http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0869.JPG
http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCF0860.JPG