View Full Version : First DSLR picture
ajh1717
07-21-2010, 07:46 AM
Well my old camera broke so I needed a new one, not huge into photography but think it is cool. Went out and got myself the entry level sony DSLR for about 400. Love the camera so far, however still getting used to it and all these ISO things and stuff I'm not used to.
Anyway, not many pictures but here is my favorite one so far, used the lens it came with on macro settings.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/DSC01538.jpg
Obviously not crazy good, but for a ''stock'' lens on a entry level DSLR I like it. lol
Any tips on getting pictures, there is so many different settings this is my face :eek:
Gootz311
07-21-2010, 07:48 AM
From one noob to another....get photoshop, it helps out alot. Im slowly learning one function at a time on the camera tho. I also have an entry level dslr. :gap:
mrluilou
07-21-2010, 07:48 AM
that's how i was when i first got my d40 :gap: just remember to keep the iso as low as possible :gap: what type of pictures would you like to take?
ajh1717
07-21-2010, 07:53 AM
Got cs3 for free, haven't played around with it to much.
Mostly landscape pictures probably. I want to get good sunset pictures, I know I'm going to have to invest in a better lens lol.
Ddragon
07-21-2010, 07:57 AM
Good start so far man! I need an SLR camera:(...
Yeah do what Gootz said and get photoshop too.
ajh1717
07-21-2010, 07:58 AM
Just played around with photoshop in the time from the first post till now.
This is what I did
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/DSC01538-1.jpg
mrluilou
07-21-2010, 07:59 AM
just keep the aperture low when taking landscape pics and use a tripod just in case you have a slow shutter speed. well the wider the better but just use what you have for now :gap:
ajh1717
07-21-2010, 08:04 AM
Yeah I mean it isn't going to give me pictures like you, but for what I want for a small time hobby type thing, it works. Overall I'm glad with it for having it for a day, but jesus christ there is so many settings and things to play around with. I left the manual in the bathroom for some light reading, or heavy, depending.
mrluilou
07-21-2010, 08:11 AM
^:chuckles:
i never read the manual for my cameras until i needed to learn the cls feature on it.
good luck man !
Blue Bomber
07-21-2010, 10:24 AM
If the camera can take pics in RAW format (might be named something different for each brand, like Nikon has NEF), use it till you get used to the settings. It allows for extreme flexibility in editing compared to JPG. It basically takes the info directly from the sensor instead of processing it into a finalized image file (JPG). That means you're free to adjust things like exposure, contrast, saturation, sharpness, and white balance without negatively affecting the image.
For example, normally if you adjust the colors to correct the white balance, you'll alter every color on the image to the same extent (reds turn to yellows, blues turn to purples, etc.), or at least pull one color far enough that it messes with the colors next to it (oranges turn to yellow when adjusting red, etc.). With a RAW file, you can adjust the white balance and all of the colors will still look right.
Also, if you accidentally over or underexpose and image, you can bring back detail to some extent. The data is still there, it's just too dark or light for the monitor to display. This is my favorite part, since even if you have a 100% correct exposure, you can still bring out more detail in the dark and bright areas.
As far as your picture, it would be considered underexposed, and the white balance is a bit on the cool side. Easily correctable with a RAW file. The key to good looking pics is lighting. Shooting the underside of a flower against the sky makes it very difficult to get a good shot, since you have two extremes in the pic: a bright light source and shadows, right next to each other. A picture taken from above, with either the sun above or at your back, or with the sky out of the picture, would produce a well balanced image as far as lighting goes, and would look much more vibrant.
With white balance, it's just trial and error. Presets usually work well outside, though indoor ones usually fall flat on their faces. If you have an adjustable white balance, that would be your best bet, especially if your camera has live view. I usually tweak my white balance in RAW no matter how close to accurate I get it.
ajh1717
07-21-2010, 02:30 PM
^ Wow thanks a lot man.
My camera does have the ability to shoot in RAW mode. I'll have to switch into that and play around with it.
elbaldwino
07-21-2010, 02:40 PM
i shoot in raw and .jpeg with my T1i....takes up a lot of space on the card but it is worth it
mrluilou
07-22-2010, 09:20 AM
remember shooting in raw takes way more memory than jpeg. if i were you just start using the camera in manual mode like that you'll learn how to use the settings faster ;)
elbaldwino
07-22-2010, 09:33 AM
remember shooting in raw takes way more memory than jpeg. if i were you just start using the camera in manual mode like that you'll learn how to use the settings faster ;)
THIS.... especially the memory part....the only reason I shoot in .jpeg and in RAW is because some programs (like facebook and photobucket) won't let you upload in RAW.....
So my solution....I have 3 8 gig cards :D
mrluilou
07-22-2010, 09:35 AM
^i save all my pics in RAW and when they get exported from Lr they are jpeg's :gap:
only problem when i try uploading them to myspace is that they are around 8-10mb's each :faint:
elbaldwino
07-22-2010, 09:39 AM
yeah....I find I lose some quality when I do that...all my facebook pics and such tend to be huge. But I find it is a higher quality picture. Every time you resize or change the extension on a picture you lose quality :(
The camera came with Canon's utilities for editing, and while it is nowhere near Photoshop I can do quite a bit with it...especially with the RAW images
Blue Bomber
07-22-2010, 09:45 AM
You need to process RAW files, since they don't have a set appearance, so they're very different from any other image type. They're basically like film before it's developed. It can be developed in many ways, and can't be seen until that's done.
Most companies have a RAW processing program that will read the camera's settings that it used to create a JPG (Photoshop doesn't do this with some cameras, if any at all). You can just use that program and batch process RAWs into JPGs. Then you can just shoot in RAW by itself and have more room than RAW + JPG. Another thing to keep in mind is that in-camera JPG processing is usually lower quality than using something like Photoshop, so you end up losing smaller details when using camera generated JPGs.
Unless your camera can use a high speed card, SD cards aren't that expensive. My D90 takes the fastest SDHC out there (Sandisk Extreme 30MB/s) for its burst mode (4.5fps), so I shelled out for one, but I have a second Transcend Class 6 if I ever run out of room. I can get 7 continuous RAW shots till the Transcend bogs down, and 11 with the Sandisk, so it's definitely worth it for me.
mrluilou
07-22-2010, 02:09 PM
when i post pictures on here i tend to use flickr because it doesn't reduce the quality of the pictures compared to photobucket :gap:
also, the wb of a picture usually depends on your style of taking pictures because some like those warm tones and others cool tones.
ajh1717
07-22-2010, 02:11 PM
Took some while at work today, here is the best.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/_DSC1591.jpg
And one of the car the first day I got the camera, this picture is not edited:
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/Cars/DSC01545.jpg
Don't comment on lowering it =P, have the springs, just being lazy at the moment
mrluilou
07-22-2010, 02:16 PM
holy saturation 1!! try not to saturate pictures too much, the car pic looks good just remember to never ever use the camera flash :gap:
ajh1717
07-22-2010, 02:18 PM
holy saturation 1!! try not to saturate pictures too much
Shhh, I know :gap: I have like 12 different copies of that picture, all different, I like the water but gotta fix the trees.
picture two has no flash lol. It is probably the reflection from the water.
Different one.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/_DSC1581.jpg
Hopefully I can get somewhere lol, probably not though. Only third day so not to bad......I hope.
2KGTS
07-22-2010, 02:24 PM
Nice pics. Looking into an entry-level DSLR myself soon. And what wheels are those???
mrluilou
07-22-2010, 02:27 PM
that last pic looks better :gap:
ajh1717
07-22-2010, 02:27 PM
Nice pics.
Don't lie lol
Looking into an entry-level DSLR myself soon
I find myself getting addicted, and it is not a cheap hobby as I'm finding out.
And what wheels are those??
Sport edition wheels lol, got them off tirerack, they were cheap and I like them. Mostly got them because my stock were scratched to hell.
ajh1717
07-22-2010, 02:28 PM
that last pic looks better
:D
Nice pics so far.
Remember, no Celica-related images. :furious:
ajh1717
07-23-2010, 06:32 AM
^ My bad, I just threw it in there because it was one of my new shots with a camera.
Blue Bomber
07-23-2010, 08:53 AM
If possible, try taking those same water shots within an hour or so of dawn/dusk, with the sun behind you, and see how much difference the lighting will make. You can see how contrasty the images are right now. It's really hard to get good shots in the middle of the day due to the sun's position, so that's why lots of landscape photographers wait till the sun is near the horizon, if possible. Taking pics on an overcast/cloudy day, or in the shadows of trees, will also reduce the extreme contrast while giving good color/tone.
You can also reduce the contrast in post processing by brightening the shadows (use Shadows/Highlights in PS), but you can only do so much before they discolor and/or look grainy (all shadows are grainy when brightened no matter what ISO you use). If there was no water around, you could also do an HDR using 3+ shots (light, natural, & dark) to eliminate the contrast without introducing noise. That takes a bit more work to accomplish, though, and experience to keep it from looking horrible. ;)
Something else you might find interesting to try, if you have a tripod, is to increase the shutter speed. You might have to lower the ISO to 100 (or 50 if available) and reduce the aperture to prevent blowing out the highlights in order to do this if it's bright outside. This will smooth the water out, and give it a flowing/less choppy look. Lots of people do this when shooting waterfalls and rocky streams to give the impression of motion.
The Celica pic is good. No highlights blown. You can bring up the shadows in post processing and have a nice shot.
ajh1717
07-25-2010, 05:30 PM
So went out for the sunset in the backyard about 10-15 minutes ago. Got some picture, very tiny editing (just levels). Don't know what else I can do (tips r welcome). So here all the ones I like the best.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/_DSC1641.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/_DSC1640.jpg That one is my favorite, got the clouds in there.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/_DSC1639.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/_DSC1638.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/_DSC1637.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/_DSC1636.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/_DSC1633.jpg
Aperture? Don't know why so dark
ajh1717
07-25-2010, 05:30 PM
Still suck but oh well lol. I need a tripod
Blue Bomber
07-25-2010, 05:45 PM
To shoot sunsets directly into the sun effectively, you really need either a graduated neutral density filter (darkens only the top half), or 3+ pics for an HDR. Now if you shoot with the sun to your back, most things will look great due to fhe optimal lighting situation.
ajh1717
07-25-2010, 05:49 PM
To shoot sunsets directly into the sun effectively, you really need either a graduated neutral density filter (darkens only the top half), or 3+ pics for an HDR. Now if you shoot with the sun to your back, most things will look great due to fhe optimal lighting situation.
Thanks for that.
I wanted to try to get some sunset pictures of the actual sun. Guess I got to look into those things. I'll have to venture down to the beach and take some pictures with my back to the sun and see what I come up with. I wanna get something of the actual sun in the sunset I can hangup in the house. Gotta keep trying lol.
Also, blue bomber, do you mod this forum?
Blue Bomber
07-25-2010, 05:56 PM
Nope, not a mod in this specific forum. The mod here is Zero. I mod General Discussion. I just really like photography, and have been getting back into it now that I have a decently capable camera, a Nikon D90 (I hate grainy pics ;) ).
If you want to get a good shot of the sun without any extra equipment or processing, your best bet would probably be to just fill up most of the frame with the sky. Just about anything else would be too dark compared to that. Adjust so you can get the details in the sky without overexposing. You can also try to get some other things in the picture, but as silhouettes instead of trying to bring out the detail in both the sky and foreground (which wouldn't work even on a $$$$ Nikon D3). Wait for some great clouds and you'll have some nice pics.
BTW, what camera do you have? It would be easier to make suggestions based on the features and capabilities of your camera.
ajh1717
07-25-2010, 05:59 PM
I have a entry level Sony α390 DSLR
No special lens or anything, just the camera and lens it came with lol. Just got into taking pictures so don't want to spend crazy money...Yet, I know the day will come though. Gotta update lens though.
mrluilou
07-25-2010, 11:52 PM
2nd pic is the best of the set and the ones where you said that its too dark is because your shutter speed was too fast and you metered the sun not the trees or houses
Blue Bomber
07-28-2010, 03:04 PM
Let's see some more pics. :) Post RAWs, too, if possible.
ajh1717
07-28-2010, 03:20 PM
Haven't have a chance to shoot in RAW yet, but don't worry, after tomorrow, I'll have plenty of pictures.
Going scuba diving with sharks :fawk::evil:
ajh1717
08-15-2010, 04:31 PM
Couldn't get a underwater camera housing, and still haven't used RAW :(.
Got some more, nothing spectacular, these are somewhat ''old'' just haven't uploaded them.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/Backyard/good.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/Backyard/good2.jpg (very little editing on that one)
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/Backyard/good5.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/Backyard/good7.jpg
Shots of the dunes after a storm, no editing, just think the damage is unreal.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/Backyard/543_DSCN2078.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/Backyard/543_DSCN2097.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/Backyard/543_DSCN2103.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac266/jackson1717/Backyard/543_DSCN2110.jpg
^ Very little remains of a bulkhead
Blue Bomber
08-18-2010, 04:05 PM
and still haven't used RAW :(.Boooo! :p:
The first and third can be pumped up using RAW, bringing up the shadow detail and/or making the colors of the sky deeper. 2nd is good as is. Exposing for the sky in a sunset scene and leaving the rest as a silhouette is usually the best way, unless you use a graduated ND filter or do HDR.
Not sure how long the zoom is on the lens you have, but try to either zoom in more on the boat, or crop the image so the boat is more prominent. You might also want to decrease the shutter speed (longer exposure) to smooth the water and wake, giving the impression of motion (like how people shoot waterfalls or moving cars).
The last four pics definitely could use a bump in contrast, saturation, and sharpness, and doing it in RAW would be the easiest way. The second pic in the set is spot on for exposure. If possible, try to shoot landscape shots like these at the widest angle the lens offers.
C'mon, post some RAWs. :)
ajh1717
08-18-2010, 04:13 PM
The first and third can be pumped up using RAW, bringing up the shadow detail and/or making the colors of the sky deeper. 2nd is good as is. Exposing for the sky in a sunset scene and leaving the rest as a silhouette is usually the best way, unless you use a graduated ND filter or do HDR.
Thanks for that advice
Not sure how long the zoom is on the lens you have, but try to either zoom in more on the boat, or crop the image so the boat is more prominent. You might also want to decrease the shutter speed (longer exposure) to smooth the water and wake, giving the impression of motion (like how people shoot waterfalls or moving cars).
Thanks man, I'll try that next time. I was sitting on a ferry screwing around and got that. Was spur of the moment kind of thing.
The last four pics definitely could use a bump in contrast, saturation, and sharpness, and doing it in RAW would be the easiest way. The second pic in the set is spot on for exposure. If possible, try to shoot landscape shots like these at the widest angle the lens offers.
The last four aren't taken by me, hence why I didn't edit them. They are just the remnants of our beach after a bad storm and thought it was ''cool'' to see what nature can do (i'm into that stuff). I'll edit them and see what I can do with some editing.
C'mon, post some RAWs
This week lol
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