sub not working

[kkrkeith7]

i just put a new 40 amp fuse in and my sub does not work now. i checked all the connections at the battery and amp but nothing. this happened before when i changed a fuse then it just came on a few hours later. i don't have a multimeter so i can't test the voltage going to the amp to see if it is on or not.

[J3adSeed]

need more details. an inline fuse or a fuse for the amp? why did you change it, because you blew the one before it? what amp is it and what fuse does it call for? what gauge wire are you using?

well not knowing that stuff, and assuming you didn't blow this new fuse, if it is a agu fuse (glass tube) it could be possible that one of the ends of it aren't connnected good to the filament (aka bad fuse), this does happen. this can be common on cheap agu fuses. this seems like what it may be since when this happens it can often limit power going to the amp but may get bumped around and work again.

[kkrkeith7]

it's an inline fuse 4 inches from the battery. the amp requires a 40 amp fuse. i had a 50 amp fuse in there temporarily for a coupl weeks because i could not find a 40 amp. 8 ga wire 12 feet long. 300 watt soundstream reference amplifier. i guess it could be a bad fuse, but i am not sure, the same exact thing happenbd when i changed it before. it didn't work at all then i went to test it and it started working...weird.

[jer925]

the way it sounds it's almost like the amp has its own breaker inside it like if it were to get to hot it would turn it's self off so it won't destroy it's self.

[kkrkeith7]

it does have a breaker that prevents the amp from blowing up. so maybe it has to recognize a new fuse or something? i just checked all the wires there are all like new, there is a power and ground going to the amp, rca's new, new fuse by battery and amp, remote wire connected and in good condition. it makes me want to rip out my custom box, take out the dynamat i just put in and just buy good components up front.

[J3adSeed]

well i'd inspect the fuse real good, pull on the ends of it (not too hard or you will break it) or see if they'll twist. also it could be the inline fuse holder. make sure the wiring going to each end is in real good everywhere and that the fuse is in tight on both sides. usually stuff like this is a loose connection somewhere. check your ground to make sure its still in good too (to the car and the amp). make sure the remote wire is good at both ends. if none of that the amp could be going into protection but that shouldn't just happen on and off, only when it gets too hot.

if you had a multimeter you could check the voltage at the amp for the power and the remote wire.

[Impulse]

Yes, a multimeter is your friend. They are cheap too for a simple one. Around $15 at any RadioShack

[kkrkeith7]

i have one back at ucf, so i don't want to buy another one, i will just wait till saturday to check it.

[RedNOSceli]

Check your remote wire...make sure the fuse on that isnt blown and makes sure its not cut/frayed....

Also, most amps have an over load light, so if its overloaded/heated, it goes into protect and throws a red or orange light (usually)
If its just not turning on it may be power/ground/remote

[kkrkeith7]

i think i'll replace the remote wire and the wires going to the sub and see if that works. i hate ripping those rear panels off they are such a pain in the as* to get back on right so the lines line up, oh and i broke a couple of those rip off the panel thingy's haha.