celicatalk
07-19-2002, 07:10 AM
Hi all, I just got my new Pioneer deck and speakers in (also got a new crossover - has lots of remote features- for my sub/amp which I already had fed from the factory deck). Anyways, here are some things I ran into during the install that may help people out. If anyone needs any advice, please email me. Thanks to all for helping me with my own install. Remember, these tips are for the GTS PREMIUM SOUND PACKAGE. Also, I am not a stereo pro and am not into the high end stereo stuff, so some of my tips may be ****ty for pro/good installs. Some of the stuff below may be already known to some, but here it goes.
1. For reference: The factory premium sound woofers in front doors of the GTS are 2 Ohms at are rated at 25 Watts. I couldn't tell what the tweaters and mids are. The rear speakers are 4 Ohms and are rated at 17 Watts. Hence the factory wires to the woofers are 16 Gauge and to the rear they are more like 18 Gauge.
2. To run the factory tweaters in series with another full range aftermarket speaker in the front door, when installing an aftermarket 4 channel head unit, you need to remove the capacitor on the tweater, by clipping the black wire on the end of the capacitor and red wire on the other side (there is another black wire on this side, but you can disgaurd it), and tie them together. You now bypass the capacitor. If you don't do this all the speakers only play really high frequencies. After doing it, you will have full range sound in the lower full range speakers, and the tweaters still sound good. You will need to fade your speakers up 1 level or so to the front after you get the system all setup, due to the fact you loose a couple dB from running the front speakers in series (lower full range speaker with the factory tweaker), but it's almost not noticable.
3. Use the larger antenna plug and tuck the little one away. The factory deck used both, but I have no problems with just using the big one.
4. The holes left in the metal after removing the stock speaker brackets (front and rear are the same size) are a little larger than a 6.5" speaker, but a 6.5" speaker will cover the open hole, so make sure you buy a 6.75" capable speaker (or make a bracket), and you can use washers and screw brackets to mount it. Mount dynomat first around the factory hole (a must if you mount it on metal), then place the speaker over and drill out holes (I used a cobalt 7/64th bit). You won't have much play at all (holes like 1/8 inch or so from the edge of the metal, but the screw brackets and washers do a good job at keeping the speaker on solid). Cover any unused holes on the speaker edge with thick electrical tape.
5. When removing the factory brackets, you can use big snipper-plyers to remove the rivits, instead of drilling if you want. It will take some time, but it's not too hard. Both the front brackets and rear brackets are rivited! The front woofer/mid is screwed onto the bracket, but the bracket itself is rivited.
6. Use the factory wire for wiring the new speakers, as trying to get the wire through the door hinge is a pain in the butt, and I gave up quickly. I am mechanically inclined, but not insane, LOL! I used the woofer speaker leads for the full range speakers as they were of a higher gauge.
7. Use the factory amp output harness to feed the signals to the speakers from the new deck. You will need 4 pairs of speaker wire to run from the center console to the factory amp output harness. Use the wiring code listing to match them up.
8. I think the wiring color code listing on this site, has a typo/mistake, or at least in my car it was different.
What was on the page:
http://www.newcelica.org/other/installs/stereo-wiring/index.htm
Passenger
front 6 1/2 GREEN + BLUE/white -
Should be:
Passenger
front 6 1/2 BLUE/white + GREEN -
If I am wrong, please let me know!
Thanks and good luck to all!
1. For reference: The factory premium sound woofers in front doors of the GTS are 2 Ohms at are rated at 25 Watts. I couldn't tell what the tweaters and mids are. The rear speakers are 4 Ohms and are rated at 17 Watts. Hence the factory wires to the woofers are 16 Gauge and to the rear they are more like 18 Gauge.
2. To run the factory tweaters in series with another full range aftermarket speaker in the front door, when installing an aftermarket 4 channel head unit, you need to remove the capacitor on the tweater, by clipping the black wire on the end of the capacitor and red wire on the other side (there is another black wire on this side, but you can disgaurd it), and tie them together. You now bypass the capacitor. If you don't do this all the speakers only play really high frequencies. After doing it, you will have full range sound in the lower full range speakers, and the tweaters still sound good. You will need to fade your speakers up 1 level or so to the front after you get the system all setup, due to the fact you loose a couple dB from running the front speakers in series (lower full range speaker with the factory tweaker), but it's almost not noticable.
3. Use the larger antenna plug and tuck the little one away. The factory deck used both, but I have no problems with just using the big one.
4. The holes left in the metal after removing the stock speaker brackets (front and rear are the same size) are a little larger than a 6.5" speaker, but a 6.5" speaker will cover the open hole, so make sure you buy a 6.75" capable speaker (or make a bracket), and you can use washers and screw brackets to mount it. Mount dynomat first around the factory hole (a must if you mount it on metal), then place the speaker over and drill out holes (I used a cobalt 7/64th bit). You won't have much play at all (holes like 1/8 inch or so from the edge of the metal, but the screw brackets and washers do a good job at keeping the speaker on solid). Cover any unused holes on the speaker edge with thick electrical tape.
5. When removing the factory brackets, you can use big snipper-plyers to remove the rivits, instead of drilling if you want. It will take some time, but it's not too hard. Both the front brackets and rear brackets are rivited! The front woofer/mid is screwed onto the bracket, but the bracket itself is rivited.
6. Use the factory wire for wiring the new speakers, as trying to get the wire through the door hinge is a pain in the butt, and I gave up quickly. I am mechanically inclined, but not insane, LOL! I used the woofer speaker leads for the full range speakers as they were of a higher gauge.
7. Use the factory amp output harness to feed the signals to the speakers from the new deck. You will need 4 pairs of speaker wire to run from the center console to the factory amp output harness. Use the wiring code listing to match them up.
8. I think the wiring color code listing on this site, has a typo/mistake, or at least in my car it was different.
What was on the page:
http://www.newcelica.org/other/installs/stereo-wiring/index.htm
Passenger
front 6 1/2 GREEN + BLUE/white -
Should be:
Passenger
front 6 1/2 BLUE/white + GREEN -
If I am wrong, please let me know!
Thanks and good luck to all!