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deercelica
05-20-2011, 12:18 AM
So a few days ago, I had my celica running and doing well. Idled for a bit, and I just have basemap tune from the F/IC right now, so I'm not driving the car. It just chills in my garage. Well today I went to start it to show a friend, and it wouldn't start. Just cranked and tried a couple times. When it did start for a brief moment, the CEL was flashing quickly and the RPM's would drop about 500-1000 instantly, each time it flashed. Now, I know this is knock, or atleast the CEL thinks it is. I am running the basic T28 turbokits setup and 550cc, hondata intake manifold, and 170* thermo, and F/IC on plug n play harness with NGK BKR7E plugs. Also, this is not the first time this has happened, the problem seems to come and go!

I've pulled the plugs, they are usually coated in gas/oil mix. But the mix on the plug will not catch on fire if held up to a Bic lighter or butane torch.

cliffs; The car ran fine, shut it off, waited till morning now it won't start, and if it does, knock CEL flashes. Any ideas on where to start?

Klint
05-20-2011, 02:45 AM
flashing cell is from a misfire so great that it could damage your catalytic converter.

trdgts85
05-20-2011, 03:28 AM
I'd pull the code first before diagnosing anything. flashing does mean you're misfiring badly. Also check you coil plugs if they are working properly.

deercelica
05-20-2011, 03:54 AM
There is no code that stays. Just flashes.

deercelica
05-20-2011, 07:05 PM
Also when the car runs. I am running 12-13AFR. Sometimes dipping in the 10's.


flashing cell is from a misfire so great that it could damage your catalytic converter.

Now, I know this is knock, or atleast the CEL thinks it is.


I already know that the flashing CEL is from knock/misfire its just finding what is causing it!

2KGTrd
05-20-2011, 08:07 PM
I know it sounds lame but three things make the car run.
FUEL, SPARK, AIR
If any of those are depleted or in a ratio that cannot work the car wont run.

So start with the easiest.
You already know by your wideband that the car is getting plenty of fuel. possibly too much, so tone down the injector values a little bit.
The car should idle lean(Cold start an exception, but it shouldn't be overly rich. 14,8 is fine). No need to burn through gas at idle.

After that adjust spark, check plugs and coil packs to make sure they're good and your getting as complete of a burn as you can.
Check timing her as well since it affects the spark(I would leave this for last since its a PITA)

And finally make sure the MAF is clean and nothing is clogging the air filter.

These are just basic steps.
Your problem sounds more like an issue with your tune.

JonnyB925
05-20-2011, 08:33 PM
From my experiance flashing CEL is a sure sign of a problem with one or more of the coil packs.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

deercelica
05-21-2011, 12:04 AM
thank you for the information.

Does this also sound like something that could be compression related? When the car actually runs good it sounds good, I don't hear much engine noise, ei; piston slap, knock, and so on. Just curious if I should compression test it, since I can get a tester from autozone as a rental.

MAF was replaced less than 3k ago, but I checked it none the less, still looked new.


What should be plugs be gapped at for 10PSI on stock lower end? I remember reading it somewhere when I installed them, but I'd like to double check them.

Klint
05-21-2011, 02:05 AM
Iridium plugs don't need gap adjustment .

deercelica
05-21-2011, 02:55 AM
I'm using NGK BKR7E plugs, they are not iridium. I was recommended them by Gary @ MWR.

CelicaGTSGuy
05-21-2011, 06:02 AM
I would contact one of the guys at turbokits.com
They are pretty helpful and helped me when I installed my kit a while back.
It does sound like a misfire and your catalytic might be ready to go.
Just check over everything again, I know when I did my install I was low on coolant and one of my injectors was leaking. But after those easy fixes everything was fine.
Also check to see if any cylinder is misfiring, if you find it change the coil pack out from another cylinder. Maybe some carbon is stuck in a valve or something and causing it to not give good compression.

CelicaGTSGuy
05-21-2011, 06:05 AM
Also I have my somewhat of a good tune on my FIC, not sure how to get it on here tho.

deercelica
05-21-2011, 07:59 AM
The catalytic converter should be fine, shouldn't it? the car hasn't seen any kind of road time in this condition and has less than 3k-5k on it overall..

I'm going to mess around with a little bit today..

For the F/iC tune, you can simply e-mail it to me @ alex2007us@gmail.com thank you!

2KGTrd
05-23-2011, 09:50 PM
gap is .44

deercelica
05-24-2011, 06:21 PM
...run the gap at .028


Which one to use?

Danny_GTS
05-24-2011, 07:53 PM
My CEL flashes but only when the car is in full boost and the engine does not misfire at all while running. I do have forged Mahle 10.5:1. I was told that this is because of the difference in compression compared to OEM pistons... Anyone knows how correct is this?

evilthorne
05-25-2011, 11:32 AM
Use the .028. Having the gap set to .044 is too big when under full boost it will be to large an area and "blow out" the spark

deercelica
05-25-2011, 03:27 PM
Thats what I kind of thought too, but I was wanting more opinions. Maybe that is my problem. I do believe I am running bigger that .028 gap currently.

2KGTrd
05-26-2011, 02:48 PM
Which one to use?
Advanced auto parts computer system said .44 that day when i bought new plugs.

Use the .028. Having the gap set to .044 is too big when under full boost it will be to large an area and "blow out" the spark

That said it is for N/A applications, if you feel like its a problem then run what jesse from tk.com said. esp since your using his kit.

deercelica
05-26-2011, 03:01 PM
Alright, thanks for the effort 2kGTrd, but you must use diffrent gaps for forced induction applications. The smaller gap created a smaller, but stronger spark.

2KGTrd
05-27-2011, 10:33 PM
but you must use diffrent gaps for forced induction applications

Which totally makes sense. I'm still new to tuning F/I applications.
But that def. makes sense... I think I need to re-gap my plugs.