View Full Version : Beginner tunning EMU
Preludekid
05-29-2011, 01:43 AM
I have decide to do NA tunning by myself. I don't have any experiences before, the previous tune was done by a shop. I have made a few changes on my car so I wanted a retune. Thats why I have ordered an AEM wideband sensor kit, and i am waiting for it. I have decided to use EMU for varies reasons.
I read many posts on this forum already, I have some questions.
1) Where do you guys put the EMU? wire it into the cabin? through where?
2) What are the different between using MAF correction and Inj duty map to tune the AFR? will the 2 achieve the same goal? Which is the better way and easier way?
3) Is it required to adjust the air temp correction and coolant temp correction? How is it done? I don't see a lot of people talking about it, hence there aren't a lot of information i aquired. Is it done by experiement? or it has a temperature related table so I can use it to do the math and plug the temperature factor into the EMU?
Many thanks
Celicasaur
06-08-2011, 03:29 PM
You'll get lot's of different/contradicting things said, depending on who you speak to about this. I'll chime in with my personal experience and let you decide from thereon if you want to use the information or not :)
1) Where do you guys put the EMU? wire it into the cabin? through where?
I put my in the engine bay and so do most people. You can buy an extension lead for the fc-datalogit tool and feed it through to the cabin. I did that with mine and left the fc-datalogit behind the glove box, already connected to the ECU and all that lives in the glove box is the usb wire which can be pulled out to connect to the laptop on the passenger seat (you and me would both have RHD models). I'm sure you can find a way that suits you :)
2) What are the different between using MAF correction and Inj duty map to tune the AFR? will the 2 achieve the same goal? Which is the better way and easier way?
MAF correction is 'harder' to tune and then fine tune, but you'll end up with a very progressive/fuel efficient set up. That's not to say the same results can't be had via the inj map, but personally I think it's about preference. Experienced tuners may use airflow based tuning on how much throttle is opened. I personally use the base/inj map.
3) Is it required to adjust the air temp correction and coolant temp correction? How is it done? I don't see a lot of people talking about it, hence there aren't a lot of information i aquired. Is it done by experiement? or it has a temperature related table so I can use it to do the math and plug the temperature factor into the EMU?
Yes it is required. Ideally you'll want to have the main tune for the car done at 'normal' temperature/conditions for your climate. The air/water correction facility will then work better for you for those moments when conditions change out of what is 'normal', ie if you've been racing a lot and the coolant temp gets high - it's an indication that if you don't increase fuelling a little and also back off the ign timing a little, you'll run into knock and end up doing what happened to poor Dan in 2006 (was it 2006 or '07?) and cook the engine on a track :( Ideally you'll want to add more fuel to the water temp table, as it shows hotter temps and you'll want to reduce fuel as the air temp get's warmer. To be fair, you'll generally tune the motor when it's at 'normal' air and water temp. So on the air temp chart, you'll want to slightly richen it up on the colder values (because that'll most likely be when your engine is awakened on a cold start) and you'll want to lean out slightly as it gets hotter.
I hope all of that helps.
Celicasaur, i think in his first question he was asking about E-manage Ultimate, not PFC. That's why he asked where you put it since you have to keep your stock ECU in the box and wire the EMU to it. That question bothers me too.
As for the 2) and 3)rd questions, i second them and want to read as much as possible too, because i am headed the same way...
Preludekid
06-14-2011, 10:19 AM
celicasaur, thanks for your advice. I am sure i am gonna ask you more questions later down the road.
However, i brought a OBDII device for my other car. It was a 2008 Honda Stepwagon 7 seater. I try to plug the device on the celica and the damn thing doesn't connect to the ECU. Mine is a 00 JDM model, is your celica a JDM or EUDM? do you think i am ever gonna deal with LTFT on my car?
BTW, i brought myself a set of used piper stage2. US$400 and its only been used for 3 months.
Preludekid
07-17-2011, 11:30 PM
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267857_10150234857023775_677203774_7479420_7471753 _n.jpg
Finally, the EMU and 2ZZ-GE harness arrived.
Cleaned up abit and disconnected the CAMCON wires.
Car started up without problem.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/285548_10150234857103775_677203774_7479421_6250562 _n.jpg
So, i am ready to install it properly now, but the harness is a pretty big loom of wires, should I route it through the hole behind the battery? Or there are some other holes that i can use to route it back into the cabin?
How to make it look clean? Anyone use EMB or EMU with pics for reference would be great. Thanks.
evilthorne
07-27-2011, 10:06 PM
I am no help regarding where to put it but, in regards to MAF vs inj duty cycle and LTFT.
When you change the MAF table you actually change the value the ECM receives from the MAF and trick it into thinking that you are running richer or leaner depending on what you want. But with this you also adjust the timing as well. I prefer leaving that map 0 and only adjusting the INJ and IGN maps separately. Then once you get running properly fine tune with the MAF for driveability.
That said you are going NA, LTFT should not really be an issue unless you start to make changes when you are in closed loop. Just keep the major changes to above 70% TPS on the map and that should put you nicely into open loop as it kicks in at 3v TPS or 60% on an OBD reader.
Preludekid
09-16-2011, 12:30 PM
Finally got it running now, but I noticed that I don't have AFR target tune feature. I connect the water temp wire to the knock singal instead, cause I know i will need it later when i tune the ignition.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/314670_10150283325478775_677203774_7933118_2135814 344_n.jpg
The datalog tells me I am running lean (15 to 16 in the low mid range, 13s on the high range), so I started to make adjustments and learn how to use the software. I am already amazed how the engine run differently after adding a little more fuel.
The above graph was done in 3rd gear WOT, spot on to 12.8 in the 6600 to 7800 rpm. I still need to add more fuel in the low and mid rpm range.
More questions:
1) Should I reconnect the water temp wire and eliminate the intake air temp for knock signal?
2) When tuning for ignition, which temp signal is more important to monitor? intake air temp or water temp?
3) should i use the water temp or intake temp ignition adjustment later? which one is more appropriate?
4) after tuning the AFR, whats next step? igntion or camcon first?
5) is there a guideline for how much igntion advancement for rpm vs load?
Preludekid
09-23-2011, 08:16 AM
I used jlitman's recommandation on knock sensor setting (resonant 7.17kHz)
I was making a pull and trying to test which knock setting is the best for later use.
my car is a 00 model, I tried using resonant and non-resonant, normal and 7.17kHz. The graph looked like the one in jlitman's LTFT post.
My car has sri, no cat, no resonator, trial exhaust. it is super noisey and ricey.
My question is, how to define which spike is the real knock?
Should I lower the frequencey?
I am still on stock ignition, just tunning the AFR right now (3rd gear pull).
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/316193_10150295820893775_677203774_8001014_7100517 15_n.jpg
2KGTS
09-27-2011, 06:16 AM
Search is your friend. In ECU tuning there's a thread on establishing your unique knock threshold. Basically, retard timing enough and make a number of runs on the same road, same conditions in 3rd gear (or 4th if you can get it!) and then how to mesh them together in a spreadsheet and plot the knock curve. '00s are a pain because they commonly get near 40 at higher rpms and are low at lower rpms.
Good luck!
Preludekid
09-27-2011, 06:54 AM
Was it inside of Jlitman's post? I saw you chatting with Jlitman regarding on EMU issues. I might have over read it.
Preludekid
09-27-2011, 09:19 AM
found the topic
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