1ZZ Engine Build (no swap)

[ano]

I have a Rotrex C30-94 running on my stock 1zz engine and I think anytime soon I ll sick for more power and a bullet proof engine. By changing the pulley of the rotrex it should be able to give me around 300bhp.

I d like some advise from those who have experience, what upgrades are mandatory and worth the trouble for my goals, that is, going from my current 226bhp mark to >300bhp and a stable 1zz daily drive car.

Mind you that I am not interested in mods that will offer very little gains and i wish to keep the expenses to "minimum".

My current setup:
-- 125k 1ZZ stock engine
-- My custom Rotrex C30-94 kit
-- 440cc Injectors
-- 255 mwr pump
-- IK20 irridium spark plugs
-- Stock header
-- 2.5" stainless steel mandrel bend midpipe and axle back exhaust
-- SB KYB14 clutch
-- MWR flywheel
-- Apexi PFC + commander
-- Boost gauge
-- 2zz brakes
-- KYB shocks with eibachs
-- RT strut bar (C-One exact replica)


Upgrades I have in mind:
-- MWR rods
-- Wiseco Pistons 10:1 if available and recommended for my setup.
-- how about valves and springs. I read that it is good to change them since I will be there.
-- how much the MWR big bore kit will help the 1zz. Does it worth the money?
-- do you recommend p&p the head from a shop that never did similar job specificly on a celica? Worth it?
-- Some recommend Cams but most dont on the 1zz, including Boosted. This is out
-- Bigger injectors, fuel return system?
-- Head gasket and apr bolds?
-- Do i really need the PPE header?
-- What else :gap:

[GoatOfRafin]

I think that for engine safety, rods and pistons is what you need. Now for me, if you are not going to rev above the rev limit, there is no need to change valves and valve springs.

The big bore kit, cams, p&p and PPE header, all help your engine inhale more air naturally. What this means is that you will have some more hp, especially if you manage to tune VVT as well but more importantly, the Rotrex will push the same amount of air with LESS boost. This is GOOD since for the same amount of air being ingested (remember that you are supercharged and NOT turbocharged), there is less restriction and the Rotrex will operate at better efficiency levels which mean LESS hp to drive the Rotrex and cooler charges. Moreover, you will have some more torque down low.

Bigger injectors might be needed as well (I could really tell if I had a glimpse at your ECU maps). FPR is not really worth it unless you go above 14psi of boost.

As for head gasket, I do not know. For APR bolts, with the amount of power that you plan to have, I think they are not needed. Of course, if you find yourself tearing down your engine often (which I do not wish for you!), the APR bolts will be more economical because they are reusable.

[Smaay]

at a minimum, rods and pistons. leave the head alone. oh and of course head studs

[ano]

I think that for engine safety, rods and pistons is what you need. Now for me, if you are not going to rev above the rev limit, there is no need to change valves and valve springs.

The big bore kit, cams, p&p and PPE header, all help your engine inhale more air naturally. What this means is that you will have some more hp, especially if you manage to tune VVT as well but more importantly, the Rotrex will push the same amount of air with LESS boost. This is GOOD since for the same amount of air being ingested (remember that you are supercharged and NOT turbocharged), there is less restriction and the Rotrex will operate at better efficiency levels which mean LESS hp to drive the Rotrex and cooler charges. Moreover, you will have some more torque down low.

Bigger injectors might be needed as well (I could really tell if I had a glimpse at your ECU maps). FPR is not really worth it unless you go above 14psi of boost.

As for head gasket, I do not know. For APR bolts, with the amount of power that you plan to have, I think they are not needed. Of course, if you find yourself tearing down your engine often (which I do not wish for you!), the APR bolts will be more economical because they are reusable.
That was very informative for me that I know nothing about engines, cheers.
I am not planning going above 7200rpm unless I am willing to overun the rotrex thus valves and springs should be out. Regarding the injectors, I never saw them going above 40% inj duty, but anyways my tuner should be able to answer this while tuning (I only have the commander, can I use it to upload what you need to have a look at the map?)

Do you know which upgrades help best the 1zz to "breath" better?

at a minimum, rods and pistons. leave the head alone. oh and of course head studs
Thanks Smaay. Could you please mention what else worths the trouble to upgrade, if any, while doing rods and pistons?

[GoatOfRafin]

Unfortunately, with just the commander, I cannot get lots of info. However, if you trust your tuner, he will let you know if injectors are going to be a problem, it is very easy to see.

As far as breathing is concerned, the order with respect to "breathing amount" is big bore, cams, PPE header and P&P. However, if I were you, I would definitely get the PPE supercharger header and couple it with a 2.75" exhaust since it is an easy, non-intrusive installation. It really depends on you budget and trust to your mechanic...

[Smaay]

Thanks Smaay. Could you please mention what else worths the trouble to upgrade, if any, while doing rods and pistons?

for your goals, thats all you need. you could port the stock header and that will give you some more gains. personally i dont see a point in PPE. they are nice pieces but the cost does not justify the gains and modifications required.

[smart_rocket]

^^ I highly doubt it's all he requires to achieve his 300bhp goal... from 226bhp to 300bhp only with a smaller pulley and reinforced internals... with a PPE, cams, stroker or some head work for sure... maybe I'm wrong

[Curt]

Over on Spyderchat, USPSPRO achieved about 300 RWHP from a Rotrex'd, built 1ZZ. I recall that he had the Crower Stage 1 FI cams, and planned a DIY port-n-polish job. But I suspect that one key ingredient to reaching this power level is being able to incorporate an efficient A/W intercooler system.
http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?25155-My-Rotrex-1zz-Version-3.0-Dyno-Page-2-(292-rwhp)&highlight=
And I suspect that you're not going to be able to get anywhere close to that power goal without enhancing the fuel delivery system: bigger injectors, higher pressure, a return system, or some combination of these.

[Boosted2.0]

Pistons
Rods
550+ injectors
return system with 1:1 regulator
PPE header with 2.5"+ high flow exhaust
MWR bearings

thats what you NEED

Other things that would also HELP include:

Crower stg 1 FI cams
valves and springs
Porting (Only if done by a shop that actually has a flow bench set up to flow the 1ZZ head with the appropriate size bore adapter.)

[ano]

Unfortunately, with just the commander, I cannot get lots of info. However, if you trust your tuner, he will let you know if injectors are going to be a problem, it is very easy to see.
Everytime I look at the dyno sheet and see how smooth the tune is, i know that I can trust him )

As far as breathing is concerned, the order with respect to "breathing amount" is big bore, cams, PPE header and P&P. However, if I were you, I would definitely get the PPE supercharger header and couple it with a 2.75" exhaust since it is an easy, non-intrusive installation. It really depends on you budget and trust to your mechanic...
2.5" system is currently on and only a few miles old.
Unfortunately the axle back is TRD style, yet 2.5", cause I wanted it to be "silent". I am not sure how restrictive that part is.

for your goals, thats all you need. you could port the stock header and that will give you some more gains. personally i dont see a point in PPE. they are nice pieces but the cost does not justify the gains and modifications required.
I know that with my current setup the PPE header doen't help, since there is another guy with very similar setup and our gains are quite similar. However I worry how the stock header will respond when aiming >300bhp

^^ I highly doubt it's all he requires to achieve his 300bhp goal... from 226bhp to 300bhp only with a smaller pulley and reinforced internals... with a PPE, cams, stroker or some head work for sure... maybe I'm wrong
Like Curt said, USPSPRO did it. I remember that he achieved those numbers on stock engine first till it blew it.

Over on Spyderchat, USPSPRO achieved about 300 RWHP from a Rotrex'd, built 1ZZ. I recall that he had the Crower Stage 1 FI cams, and planned a DIY port-n-polish job. But I suspect that one key ingredient to reaching this power level is being able to incorporate an efficient A/W intercooler system.
http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?25155-My-Rotrex-1zz-Version-3.0-Dyno-Page-2-(292-rwhp)&highlight=
And I suspect that you're not going to be able to get anywhere close to that power goal without enhancing the fuel delivery system: bigger injectors, higher pressure, a return system, or some combination of these.
I need to go through that thread again, I barely remember the exact details. Thanks for bringing it back to mind. Regarding the goals I like thinking positive :) When I ll go for the upgrade I will do some additional work, not only the necessary parts. My A2A intercooler setup WILL be improved with a bigger intercooler and maybe upgrade the cooling system with bigger aluminum radiator, trd thermostat and maybe oil cooler.

Pistons
Rods
550+ injectors
return system with 1:1 regulator
PPE header with 2.5"+ high flow exhaust
MWR bearings

thats what you NEED

Other things that would also HELP include:

Crower stg 1 FI cams
valves and springs
Porting (Only if done by a shop that actually has a flow bench set up to flow the 1ZZ head with the appropriate size bore adapter.)
Cheers for the reply.
I guess my budget for new parts will start from 2.5k and go higher accordingly. This is good to know.

[GoatOfRafin]

I know that with my current setup the PPE header doen't help, since there is another guy with very similar setup and our gains are quite similar. However I worry how the stock header will respond when aiming >300bhp

Are you sure that both of you guys have optimal VVT tuning? This is crucial in order to fully exploit the potential of the PPE header. I know that in the 2ZZ, ported vs PPE Redliner9k is at least 10whp when N/A and of course more when supercharged.

2.5" system is currently on and only a few miles old.
I think that this should be sufficient, especially if you plan to keep cams and header as they are now. However with cams and a PPE header, a 2.75" or even a 3" would be more optimal if combined with optimized VVT settings.

[ano]

Are you sure that both of you guys have optimal VVT tuning? This is crucial in order to fully exploit the potential of the PPE header. I know that in the 2ZZ, ported vs PPE Redliner9k is at least 10whp when N/A and of course more when supercharged.
Either this or the PPE header doesn't make much of a difference on 1ZZ, which I doubt now that I know it makes so much difference on the 2ZZ.