boosted 2ZZ misfire

[woodrow00gts-t]

the car runs great in and out of boost and is hitting lift hard. but at 6500 it misses, almost like a rev limiter. if the car spins in my lower gears it will do the same thing but around 7. will free rev all the way to 8250. plug gaps have been tried at several different gaps but its not a spark blow out problem. they are gapped at .032 and the air fuels are at 11.5 through boost. i have adjusted the timing pretty damn far in both directions. never advanced but it was closer to -1.25 degrees. and have had it backed all the way off to like -7 degrees (which is even farther retarded than the conservative base map i started with) why is that miss still the exact same regardless my changes? what are some of your guys FIC ignition timing tables set between 6500-7000? and plug gaps?

coil packs have just been replaced. the problem is still the same

[kortik]

gap it down to .028" see if that helps

thats what I am running.

what brand plugs are you using?

[Smaay]

yeah try .028

[many]

the car runs great in and out of boost and is hitting lift hard. but at 6500 it misses, almost like a rev limiter. if the car spins in my lower gears it will do the same thing but around 7. will free rev all the way to 8250. plug gaps have been tried at several different gaps but its not a spark blow out problem. they are gapped at .032 and the air fuels are at 11.5 through boost. i have adjusted the timing pretty damn far in both directions. never advanced but it was closer to -1.25 degrees. and have had it backed all the way off to like -7 degrees (which is even farther retarded than the conservative base map i started with) why is that miss still the exact same regardless my changes? what are some of your guys FIC ignition timing tables set between 6500-7000? and plug gaps?

coil packs have just been replaced. the problem is still the same

What kit are you running? what type of exhaust manifold?

[Jannelle]

What kit are you running? what type of exhaust manifold?

Rings bells for you too, heh Many ? haha

[woodrow00gts-t]

NGK plugs from monkeywrench. I'll try that gap. Thanks guys

It's the turbokits.com setup

[many]

Rings bells for you too, heh Many ? haha

It's the turbokits.com setup


Why doesn't this surprise me......

[woodrow00gts-t]

The plugs at .028 didn't fix it

It hasn't always done this though. It used to be fine

[TurboKits.com]

Do you have any log files you can send to us so we may forward them to AEM? There is typically a rich dip right as the engine goes into lift that can cause bogging. You need to run a little lean during LIFT transition so when it does spike rich, it doesn't go so rich it stops power. If it revvs free to redline when the tires are spinning, it most likely due to it being in a different load cell and not hitting that rich spike. make sense? Kind of like VTEC crossover, the engine actually loses power for a millisecond during the transition.

In regards to the manifold question, he has the new CAST manifold. I think the issue you guys are thinking of are from the older HASS built manifolds.

Anyway, we are here to help.

Thanks

the car runs great in and out of boost and is hitting lift hard. but at 6500 it misses, almost like a rev limiter. if the car spins in my lower gears it will do the same thing but around 7. will free rev all the way to 8250. plug gaps have been tried at several different gaps but its not a spark blow out problem. they are gapped at .032 and the air fuels are at 11.5 through boost. i have adjusted the timing pretty damn far in both directions. never advanced but it was closer to -1.25 degrees. and have had it backed all the way off to like -7 degrees (which is even farther retarded than the conservative base map i started with) why is that miss still the exact same regardless my changes? what are some of your guys FIC ignition timing tables set between 6500-7000? and plug gaps?

coil packs have just been replaced. the problem is still the same

What kit are you running? what type of exhaust manifold?

Rings bells for you too, heh Many ? haha

[woodrow00gts-t]

When the car spins it still has the misfire issue at either 6500 or 7. If I have it in neutral it will rev to 8250. I'm reading 11's all the way to the misfire
I don't have a log at the moment but I can try to get one this evening.

[TurboKits.com]

Ok, get us some logs and we'll do our best to help. Are you the same person that was having issues with the car not running right at all and it was due to a faulty main harness and ground? Stupid question, but did you do a full reset of your ECU since then? Also, what manifold do you have, the new CAST one?

Thanks

When the car spins it still has the misfire issue at either 6500 or 7. If I have it in neutral it will rev to 8250. I'm reading 11's all the way to the misfire
I don't have a log at the moment but I can try to get one this evening.

[kortik]

get a PFC instead of AEM FIC?

[woodrow00gts-t]

ya im the same guy. it was bad grounds on the head. redid them and the car runs great. yes the ecu has been reset since then.
how many logs do you want recorded? ive only messed with the base map i received with the kit so it shouldnt look too crazy.
i would like a power fc but thats more than i want to spend on this car right now because im building my SRT-4. when im done ill go apexi and low comps

[woodrow00gts-t]

And yes I have the cast manifold

[TurboKits.com]

If it's a bog during LIFT engagement then tuning will still be needed with the PFC for a smooth LIFT transition. The PFC yes is a more robust EMS, but it does have its limitations. It's MAF based only, does not throw CELs and is not OBDII scan-able, so you can say goodbye to emissions. For a low boost set up the AEM FIC is a great economical option. It's approved by AEM for this application as well.

get a PFC instead of AEM FIC?


Logs would be needed during the misfire, bog, error. Logs when it's running smooth as well so we can compare the differences. Try leaning it up a tad around LIFT engagement. Also, check the MAF map in those cells to. Make sure the MAF isn't maxing. Good on the manifold, you have the latest and greatest. We just worked with a 2ZZ customer using our T28 Billet kit, cast manifold and PFC to hit the 320WHP and 260Ft Lbs at 14 PSI and 94 Octane. His car runs 12.5 in the 1/2 and he drives it daily into the high altitude hills of NM :)

ya im the same guy. it was bad grounds on the head. redid them and the car runs great. yes the ecu has been reset since then.
how many logs do you want recorded? ive only messed with the base map i received with the kit so it shouldnt look too crazy.
i would like a power fc but thats more than i want to spend on this car right now because im building my SRT-4. when im done ill go apexi and low comps

And yes I have the cast manifold

[woodrow00gts-t]

I think the FIC is great for the application that I have, so I don't feel the need to change it up until more work is done.

The car doesn't seem to bog at all when I hit lift but it might be bogging by the time I hit 6500. The AFR's don't seem to dip that much but it might be just enough to cause this. What values are maxing out the MAF? I'll get a 3rd gear pull log today. Would you like me to email it to you guys? You can PM the address I can get ahold of you at because I don't think I have the old email I contacted you at before

[TurboKits.com]

Ok, send us the logs and we'll take a look. Do you have your wideband hooked into the FIC for logging? We will need to see AFRs as well as the rest of the info. The MAF voltage in and out, which will be logged. I'll PM you the tech e-mail. Thanks.

I think the FIC is great for the application that I have, so I don't feel the need to change it up until more work is done.

The car doesn't seem to bog at all when I hit lift but it might be bogging by the time I hit 6500. The AFR's don't seem to dip that much but it might be just enough to cause this. What values are maxing out the MAF? I'll get a 3rd gear pull log today. Would you like me to email it to you guys? You can PM the address I can get ahold of you at because I don't think I have the old email I contacted you at before

[woodrow00gts-t]

i dont have it hooked up to the fic but i will let you know the afr's all the way up to the miss, before and after lift.
its raining so ill find a spot to do a pull in 4th so i wont spin haha ill email them out shortly

[TurboKits.com]

It's only 1 wire, hook it up, it'll not only help us, but help you fine tune in the future :)

i dont have it hooked up to the fic but i will let you know the afr's all the way up to the miss, before and after lift.
its raining so ill find a spot to do a pull in 4th so i wont spin haha ill email them out shortly

[woodrow00gts-t]

when i bought the car it had some other wideband in it, not a UEGO so i doubt it is compatible. otherwise i would love to have it hooked up!

the logs have been sent

[TurboKits.com]

Hmm, no logs attached to the e-mail? Can you zip them up? Or do you use DROPBOX? Also, any 0-5v sensor will work on the FIC for logging and it's only 1 wire to connect. Please do that and resend some logs with the AFRs too :)

Thanks

when i bought the car it had some other wideband in it, not a UEGO so i doubt it is compatible. otherwise i would love to have it hooked up!

the logs have been sent

[woodrow00gts-t]

I'll try to resend them because I know I had something attached but a poor wifi signal so it might not have sent it all. I'll give it another shot when I get home in a bit
Which wire should I tap into on my wideband for the analong input on the FIC? And can't I do the same thing for my knock sensor?

[woodrow00gts-t]

i tried to resend the logs

[woodrow00gts-t]

Ive gone through the logs myself, and even at the miss I can't see anything out of place that looks like it's causing the problem.

[TurboKits.com]

Ok, got them this time. We'll take a look. Thanks

Ive gone through the logs myself, and even at the miss I can't see anything out of place that looks like it's causing the problem.

[woodrow00gts-t]

Did you find anything in the log?

[TurboKits.com]

Our Tech received them and said he sent you an e-mail already... Thanks

Did you find anything in the log?

[woodrow00gts-t]

Tried the resistor mod, it didn't work.

[TurboKits.com]

What resistor did you wire in? Basically what is happening is the OEM ECU is picking up noise on the CAM signal and it's trying to adjust timing for false reasons. The resistors clean the signal of that noise. So the scale of the resistor may need to be higher.

Also, I have an idea, another customer did this and it seemed to smooth out his issues. Bypass the CAM sensor signal from the FIC. Have it go directly to the OEM ECU. Remove the resistor from the CAM signal wire as well. This will send an uninterrupted signal to the OEM ECU from the CAM sensor. According to AEM the FIC can still control timing through just the CRK signal so you should still have timing control.

What is the serial # of your FIC. I would like to report this back to AEM as well.

Let me know

Thanks

Tried the resistor mod, it didn't work.

[woodrow00gts-t]

it is a 2.2k ohm 1/2 watt resistor.

should i try different resistors first or just bypass the cam wiring? and when i bypass the cam wiring should i leave the resistor on the crank wiring?

i will get the serial number when i pull the wiring to either do different resistors or bypass the cam wiring. let me know which to try first.

[Malta-Celica]

Haven't logged in here in ages but I had the same issue

Documented it and took pics so here you go!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3156850/1999-toyota-celica/page-24

Quite easy to fix and will run like a charm

[TurboKits.com]

Hmm, as Malta says below, that is what he did when he had the same issue. Make sure that you have installed them properly as shown in his post as well as in the PDF we sent. If so, try a higher ohm resistance. Try the next step up and then the next and see if that does it. Thanks for your help!

it is a 2.2k ohm 1/2 watt resistor.

should i try different resistors first or just bypass the cam wiring? and when i bypass the cam wiring should i leave the resistor on the crank wiring?

i will get the serial number when i pull the wiring to either do different resistors or bypass the cam wiring. let me know which to try first.


Hey Malta-Celica, how are you, long time! Nice vids on your 25th page!

Haven't logged in here in ages but I had the same issue

Documented it and took pics so here you go!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3156850/1999-toyota-celica/page-24

Quite easy to fix and will run like a charm

[Malta-Celica]

Hey Malta-Celica, how are you, long time! Nice vids on your 25th page!

Been good thanks! Moved country though and am selling the car next week which is good but sad. Had it for almost 5 years now (3 of them running your kit) and it's been awesome.

Shame to see it go but it has been sitting in the garage for 6 months and I don't want it to rot away (and started immediately on the first try once I re-connected the battery). Came back to Malta for the sale and flying back to UK afterwards.

I actually had a standard clutch in those vids and it was slipping but installed a Fidanza racing clutch since then :-)

Still deciding if a Supra or RX7 should be the next project...

[TurboKits.com]

Wow, good luck to you Malta, hope your move to the UK work out. Hmmm, what year Supra? 2JZ?

Been good thanks! Moved country though and am selling the car next week which is good but sad. Had it for almost 5 years now (3 of them running your kit) and it's been awesome.

Shame to see it go but it has been sitting in the garage for 6 months and I don't want it to rot away (and started immediately on the first try once I re-connected the battery). Came back to Malta for the sale and flying back to UK afterwards.

I actually had a standard clutch in those vids and it was slipping but installed a Fidanza racing clutch since then :-)

Still deciding if a Supra or RX7 should be the next project...

[Malta-Celica]

Wow, good luck to you Malta, hope your move to the UK work out. Hmmm, what year Supra? 2JZ?

1997 2JZ-GTE

I have personally visited 2 examples, one is standard twin turbo and the other has been converted to T4 Single Turbo 650 RWHP

Trying to work out if the price difference makes it worth buying it tuned or building it myself from scratch...

[TurboKits.com]

I always get the one that hasn't been touched. I'd rather control the work done to it.

Hit me up if and when you get one and we'll help you make it fly!

1997 2JZ-GTE

I have personally visited 2 examples, one is standard twin turbo and the other has been converted to T4 Single Turbo 650 RWHP

Trying to work out if the price difference makes it worth buying it tuned or building it myself from scratch...

[woodrow00gts-t]

i put 4.7k ohm 1/2 watt resistors in. the problem is now happening a few hundred rpm's higher. close to 7000 rpm now. should i just keep going with an even higher resistor? what ohm and watt resistor should i try?

[TurboKits.com]

Yes, go to the next step. The higher the revs the more noise. This is a good sign. Radio shack has an assortment tray of resistor. I think they go up to 10K and higher, but try the next in line first.

i put 4.7k ohm 1/2 watt resistors in. the problem is now happening a few hundred rpm's higher. close to 7000 rpm now. should i just keep going with an even higher resistor? what ohm and watt resistor should i try?

[woodrow00gts-t]

Is it possible to have too big of a resistor?

[yacob06]

Is it possible to have too big of a resistor?

Hey if you need bigger resistors, I think I still have some. Hit me up if you need any.

[woodrow00gts-t]

What size resistors do u have Jake?

[TurboKits.com]

Yes, to much and it will resist the whole signal and the ECU won't see anything. I think 10K is the max that AEM suggests.

Is it possible to have too big of a resistor?

[woodrow00gts-t]

Ok, just making sure 4.7 isn't too big. That's y u guys told me to go up one size at a time correct?

[TurboKits.com]

Correct, you want the highest rating that works, you wouldn't want to just go straight to say 10K.

Ok, just making sure 4.7 isn't too big. That's y u guys told me to go up one size at a time correct?

[woodrow00gts-t]

how do you know if the resistors are too big?

[TurboKits.com]

The breakup at 7K should go away before the resistor gets too high. If it goes too high, it can stop the signal from reaching the OEM ECU and you would get a CEL immediately.

how do you know if the resistors are too big?

[newbye]

Hello, I have read the post and I think you have the problem that I had before, with the power cut. But in the end I solved it, I buy the spark BKRE7 coming to 0.9 mm, and I gauge to 0.7 mm.

Sorry for my English is not very good.

[woodrow00gts-t]

i can give that a try also.

UPDATE: i have the 10k resistors in the car. the biggest one recommended. still the exact problem i had originally. still breaking up in the same place. and no CEL. it says nothing of the signal being interrupted.

coil packs have been replaced, plugs also. reads a solid 11.6 even through the lift transition. doesnt even move

i have reviewed the logs and noticed that at the misfire my injector duty cycle spikes. does this mean that maybe the fuel pump hit its limits to feed the injectors, and they cant deliver the fuel, so its missing?

[TurboKits.com]

What is the MAX duty cycle? Also, have you tried to bypass the CAM wire all together from the FIC. Take the CAM signal wire from the FIC and connect it straight back to the OEM ECU bypassing the FIC? You may want to run a 255LPH pump just as a safety net.

i can give that a try also.

UPDATE: i have the 10k resistors in the car. the biggest one recommended. still the exact problem i had originally. still breaking up in the same place. and no CEL. it says nothing of the signal being interrupted.

coil packs have been replaced, plugs also. reads a solid 11.6 even through the lift transition. doesnt even move

i have reviewed the logs and noticed that at the misfire my injector duty cycle spikes. does this mean that maybe the fuel pump hit its limits to feed the injectors, and they cant deliver the fuel, so its missing?

[woodrow00gts-t]

the duty cycle is at 79% after the lift transition. when it reaches the misfire, it spikes to 139% that seems very odd to me.

i can try to bypass the cam wire. do i bypass both cams wires? do i leave the resistor on the crank wires?

i should probably try the 255lph pump before i mess with those wires

[TurboKits.com]

Yeah, the 255 pump is just cheap insurance and worth it regardless. However, do things one step at a time in order to eliminate only 1 thing at once. Just the CAM wire, do not touch the CRK wire and leave the resistor on the CRK wire. Take the crank signal wire (in and out of the FIC) and bypass the FIC so that the signal goes directly into the OEM ECU without being altered by the FIC.

Thanks

the duty cycle is at 79% after the lift transition. when it reaches the misfire, it spikes to 139% that seems very odd to me.

i can try to bypass the cam wire. do i bypass both cams wires? do i leave the resistor on the crank wires?

i should probably try the 255lph pump before i mess with those wires

[woodrow00gts-t]

bump

[Boosted2.0]

CAM and crank wires are shielded circuits on the Celica. Replace the wire from where you tap into the stock circuit to the AEM with shielded wire (you can get 2 wire shielded microphone wire at radioshack) and ground the shielding at both ends. *IF* its a "noise" issue your unshielded wires may well be the cause. Adding a resistor doesn't eliminate noise, it simply lowers the overall amplitude of the signal.

[turbophil]

^ Important to add that it be twisted pair. These wires shielded without twisted pair *could* possibly make the problem worse... We've seen it happen in Lotus land with custom harnesses (different ECU but same sensors)...

[woodrow00gts-t]

I have the plug and play boomslang wiring harness. Are the wires in that harness shielded?

[woodrow00gts-t]

It hasn't always done this either. A few months back it would run all the way to 8250. Then it just started missing and I didn't change the tune or anything so I was kinda lost as to y one day it just started doing it

[neekei]

i have experienced the same situation. Ive found solution on aem forum.
2 resistors (on cam & crk) will help you. FIC have very sensitive inputs. The resistors lowers the overall amplitude of the signal, and noise too, but FIC will clearly see the signal and not reacts on noise.
try it. Me helps

[woodrow00gts-t]

So u want me to put multiple resistors on it? I already have 10k ohm on it. And I need more?

[neekei]

We have seen a couple of vehicles, including an automatic Scion xB, that had erratic misfires (especially at high load) that would go away if you bypassed the cam or crank signals so they were not intercepted by the FIC. After measuring the signals with an oscilloscope, we could see that the signals were a bit noisy, and the FIC inputs were sensitive enough that they picked up noise and sent an extra cam pulse to the ECU. The solution was to install a 2k ohm resistor with one side connected to Crank MAGI(+) and the other side connected to Crank MAGI(-). Another 2k resistor installed with one side connected to Cam1 MAGI(+) and the other side connected to Cam1 MAGI(-). None of these vehicles would stall due to this misfire, so it's not likely that this is what you are experiencing.

Here is what i've done. It helps me

[Boosted2.0]

^ Important to add that it be twisted pair. These wires shielded without twisted pair *could* possibly make the problem worse... We've seen it happen in Lotus land with custom harnesses (different ECU but same sensors)...

Twisted pair is in-necessary when you have a shielded wire on a low output sensor circuit. It is, in fact, the "poor man's substitute" for a properly shielded wire.

I have extended factory DBW harnesses as much as 18 feet with zero sensor signal degredation using the radio-shack shielded wire. It works perfectly.

[Boosted2.0]

I have the plug and play boomslang wiring harness. Are the wires in that harness shielded?


Nope.

[woodrow00gts-t]

so i disconnect the wire right before it goes into the FIC, and where it branches out of the plug and play, then replace it with shielded wire back to the stock ecu? or do i need to repin the plug and play for the cam wire with shielded wire? am i doing this with both the positive and negative wires?

[Boosted2.0]

so i disconnect the wire right before it goes into the FIC, and where it branches out of the plug and play, then replace it with shielded wire back to the stock ecu? or do i need to repin the plug and play for the cam wire with shielded wire? am i doing this with both the positive and negative wires?

leave about 2 inches of wire at the FIC connector, and about 2" coming out of the point where it Ts from the factory harness (both of these points are on the boomslang harness. Then solder in to the aire at both ends, and solder a ground wire to the shielding and run it to a good ground (The sensor ground point on the head in the engine bay, and a known good ground near your FIC wherever you have it located)

[woodrow00gts-t]

So do I do that to both the positive and negative cam wires?

[Boosted2.0]

So do I do that to both the positive and negative cam wires?

Yes, assuming both wires have been intercepted in that harness.

[woodrow00gts-t]

Would a grounding system(ex. apexi super grounding system) maybe fix my problem?

[woodrow00gts-t]

i have bypassed the cam wires. the problem remains the same, except now i cant tune the ignition timing at all now. i can highlight the value the car is currently using and drastically change it and nothing happens. still missing like a rev limiter at 6500.

[TurboKits.com]

If you have completely bypass timing. Then the FIC is in effect out of the loop. If you are still having the issue, then it is either mechanical (lift bolts, CAM sensor) or in the fueling. Since you said it was going into lift before and this started all of a sudden, could it be temperature due to the colder winter months? LTFTs off or STFTs off. What about oil pressure?

i have bypassed the cam wires. the problem remains the same, except now i cant tune the ignition timing at all now. i can highlight the value the car is currently using and drastically change it and nothing happens. still missing like a rev limiter at 6500.

[woodrow00gts-t]

Well lift still engages really well. Fresh oil so the pressure should be fine. I just checked the cam bolts and they're good, and like I said it still hits lift hard. And there would probably be a CEL if the cam sensor was bad. I can still do the fuel pump as a safety net if I need to

[TurboKits.com]

Did you recently do engine work that required you to remove the CAMs? What do the logs show at the exact time of the event?

Well lift still engages really well. Fresh oil so the pressure should be fine. I just checked the cam bolts and they're good, and like I said it still hits lift hard. And there would probably be a CEL if the cam sensor was bad. I can still do the fuel pump as a safety net if I need to

[woodrow00gts-t]

Nope. Haven't touched it. It just started doing it one day.
The only thing out of place in the log that I see is that the injector duty cycle jumps from 79% to 139% as soon as it misses

[TurboKits.com]

Is that the duty cycle showing in the FIC or do you have an OBDII software? Sounds like something is causing a lean condition and the injectors are adjusting over their limits to correct it. Check your in tank FPR and you mite as well do the pump to rule those out.

Nope. Haven't touched it. It just started doing it one day.
The only thing out of place in the log that I see is that the injector duty cycle jumps from 79% to 139% as soon as it misses

[woodrow00gts-t]

The AFR's are solid 11.8 even through lift then at the misfire it jumps to about 12.6

[TurboKits.com]

Ok, so no matter what you do fuel wise, it still leans out? Sounds like something with the fuel delivery. Try the pump...

The AFR's are solid 11.8 even through lift then at the misfire it jumps to about 12.6

[woodrow00gts-t]

No I can easily hold 10's through boost and lift all the way up to the misfire. I can make it more rich. But in a misfire, the wideband will read lean so the air fuel mixture might not be bad. The huge injector duty cycle jump is what doesn't make sense to me.

[TurboKits.com]

Right, sounds like pressure or volume is dropping and the ECU is jumping up duty cycle to keep up. Yeah, try the pump.

No I can easily hold 10's through boost and lift all the way up to the misfire. I can make it more rich. But in a misfire, the wideband will read lean so the air fuel mixture might not be bad. The huge injector duty cycle jump is what doesn't make sense to me.

[Smaay]

if you convert to a return style fuel system, you will go much farther with your injectors

[TurboKits.com]

Good point, what PSI are you running? Anything over 10 and you can run into pressure drops on the stock fuel pump.

if you convert to a return style fuel system, you will go much farther with your injectors

[MatG0]

I have same issues, even I have 255lph pump installed.. I tryied resistor mod, but it did not improve it well.. I cant pass 6500/7000rpm on all gears. I think it could rev more with very rich mixture but it is few time ago I played with it, so not sure now.. Im waiting for apexi power fc. I hope it helps me to solve the problems

[TurboKits.com]

I have forwarded these posts to AEM. I am not sure what these problems could be. The FIC is approved by AEM for use on the Celica GTS. In the meantime I would suggest to anyone looking at our kit to run the PFC or the eManage.

Thanks

I have same issues, even I have 255lph pump installed.. I tryied resistor mod, but it did not improve it well.. I cant pass 6500/7000rpm on all gears. I think it could rev more with very rich mixture but it is few time ago I played with it, so not sure now.. Im waiting for apexi power fc. I hope it helps me to solve the problems

[Boosted2.0]

No I can easily hold 10's through boost and lift all the way up to the misfire. I can make it more rich. But in a misfire, the wideband will read lean so the air fuel mixture might not be bad. The huge injector duty cycle jump is what doesn't make sense to me.

The ECU may be reacting to the perceived leaner air fuel mixture.

When does the misfire occur exactly (under what driving / engine conditions) - trottle, veh. speed, engine speed, etc.

[GoatOfRafin]

But in a misfire, the wideband will read lean so the air fuel mixture might not be bad.
If it is actual misfire, it totally makes sense for the wideband to read leaner mixtures since there is more unburnt oxygen present at the exhaust gases...

[woodrow00gts-t]

I would like to have a return line setup I just don't feel like I need one for the power that I'm running

I'm on 9 psi

Since it hasn't always done this, I'm hoping the fuel pump will solve the problem. I feel like it's just slowly dying and that's why it just started happening

The thing that's weird to me is that I don't think the FIC is causing the problem because it hasn't always done it. If the FiC was bad it would always be acting like junk. Im not a big fan of the PFC, I like AEM

I figured out today that if I run up through the entire rpm range out of boost, that it will go all the way to 8250. When I part throttle and get a little more load on the engine it will misfire but it will still climb. When I WOT it will stop at 6500. It does all this in all gears.

I agree. Its a definite misfire.

[MatG0]

Maybe oem o2 is bad even if I dont think..
If I remember it right it looks like oem ECU is expecting much richer mixture since you hit lift at wot and also whole this was sensitive on values set in O2 MAP. So I think that in O2 MAP should be set some more different offset values in lift range..
That is only my guess. Im still not understand AEM FIC at all. I was trying it for long time but sometimes it seems to be more like some paranormal activity that like "tuning".. FIC is unstable I think.

[TurboKits.com]

Mat makes a good point, what are the values set on the O2 map? Maybe try turning the O2 skewing off? Also get the pump as well. Make sure you keep a rich enough AFR to avoid damage.

I would like to have a return line setup I just don't feel like I need one for the power that I'm running

I'm on 9 psi

Since it hasn't always done this, I'm hoping the fuel pump will solve the problem. I feel like it's just slowly dying and that's why it just started happening

The thing that's weird to me is that I don't think the FIC is causing the problem because it hasn't always done it. If the FiC was bad it would always be acting like junk. Im not a big fan of the PFC, I like AEM

I figured out today that if I run up through the entire rpm range out of boost, that it will go all the way to 8250. When I part throttle and get a little more load on the engine it will misfire but it will still climb. When I WOT it will stop at 6500. It does all this in all gears.

I agree. Its a definite misfire.

Maybe oem o2 is bad even if I dont think..
If I remember it right it looks like oem ECU is expecting much richer mixture since you hit lift at wot and also whole this was sensitive on values set in O2 MAP. So I think that in O2 MAP should be set some more different offset values in lift range..
That is only my guess. Im still not understand AEM FIC at all. I was trying it for long time but sometimes it seems to be more like some paranormal activity that like "tuning".. FIC is unstable I think.

[woodrow00gts-t]

Thanks mat, I will definitely try that after work

I'll let you guys know the values in my lift range.

The fuel pump is in the mail. Says it will be here Friday. The AFR's are still in the 11's

[newbye]

I have the new map made ​​by a tuned, and the camshaft cable directly to the ECU. My car also cuts power to 7000rpm and do not know why.

Does the idle must be at 900rpm?. Normally this between 14.7 and 15.2 afr, but sometimes does strange things. Add the needle goes back down, marking poor mixing.

The ecu aem fic.

[woodrow00gts-t]

I put the fuel pump in. The car runs much smoother, but still the same problem. Still missing.

My car idles at 800 rpm in the mid 14's AFR's. Seems to be pretty smooth. But I've tried re wiring that cam wire, and different tunes, spark plugs, coil packs, resistors, a ton of things. I don't know what else to do!

[newbye]

The only option I see is buying the Apexi FC, the aem fic is worthless.

You do not have problems at idle?. The map I have -15 (from 0 to 1200 rpm)

[woodrow00gts-t]

I shouldn't have to because the car worked before on the FIC. I shouldn't have to change it now

I have mine pulled back to -30 at idle range

[woodrow00gts-t]

Is it possible that the high flow cat could be clogged so it would allow enough exhaust out? Too much back pressure?

[MatG0]

Did you try to reset the OEM ECU and clean MAF? Im sorry if it was written here before.. I have to clean my MAF often. It make lean mixture when it is dirty, OEM ECU is also trying to adapt time to time if Im right

[woodrow00gts-t]

i have reset it several times. But I bet my MAF is pretty dirty, I forgot to clean that up. I'll give that a shot

[woodrow00gts-t]

MAF is clean. Still have the same problem

But I looked at my o2 map and it looks like I'm maxing out the sensor. I'm hitting 22.5 PSIA and it is at value -0.498. And at 20 PSIA it is still the same value. But it's at 22.5 all the time and it doesn't have a problem down low?

[newbye]

I have the same value as your 20 and 22 psi.

I'm sending you a private message.

[MatG0]

This sounds like the reason. But one another thing..Did you try to recalibre rpm and tps?

[newbye]

If the first thing I did, 3000rpm, then back pedal to the accelerator with the contact

[woodrow00gts-t]

I will try to change those values in the o2 map.

I have it all calibrated

[MatG0]

Good news here :) i set values in the maf map to -7.8% at the range from 6000rpm and max boost. It works now fine

[woodrow00gts-t]

Were you having the same problems as me!?!?

[TurboKits.com]

E-mail tech@turbokits.com with a copy of the map or screen shot of your change so we can see what you did! :)

Thanks

Good news here :) i set values in the maf map to -7.8% at the range from 6000rpm and max boost. It works now fine

[newbye]

Good news here :) i set values in the maf map to -7.8% at the range from 6000rpm and max boost. It works now fine

How have you solved?, Or have you already put the Apexi fc you bought?

Help please ;)

[woodrow00gts-t]

You did this on your AEM FIC correct?

[MatG0]

Yes, on AEM FIC. I can post some screenshoot. Value "-7,8%" was a rough estimate, but I was able to pass the 7000rmp with it. It is shooting sometimes into exhaust, so it need some tune.. Maybe this could be the way or if is MAF really maxed out it will be better to change maf pipe or MAF. Somebody more experienced should say something to this.

[woodrow00gts-t]

How much boost are you running mat?

[MatG0]

boost is one of the reasons why I dont want to tune it now. Im running at 9-10psi on stock internals. It is too much I think and I dont know why it is so high. But Im going to rebuild my setup soon

[TurboKits.com]

Please post a screen shot of the MAF MAP. Seems like the voltage is hitting a point the stock ECU does not like and thus reducing the output of the voltage from the FIC to the Stock ECU has helped. I would love to illustrate this with a picture for anyone having this issue :)

Thanks!

Yes, on AEM FIC. I can post some screenshoot. Value "-7,8%" was a rough estimate, but I was able to pass the 7000rmp with it. It is shooting sometimes into exhaust, so it need some tune.. Maybe this could be the way or if is MAF really maxed out it will be better to change maf pipe or MAF. Somebody more experienced should say something to this.

[woodrow00gts-t]

I'm running about the same boost mat. If you have a good tune on it you'll be ok. I've tried turning mine down and it always stays about 9-10. It's not my first turbo car and I've never seen a wastegate have such little effect but it runs great like this, compression is good on all cylinders and with a good tune and the right fuel you should be ok until you rebuild.

I'm going to try the voltage change tonight! I hope it works out!

[newbye]

My maf map is 0, is this normal?

I would like to know why my car to idle is not stable, the needle moves up and down one marking poor mixing.
Could it be because I have not the resistance in the crankshaft?

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/2513/mafmap.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/23/mafmap.png/)

[TurboKits.com]

That is what I am trying to find out. We typically just cap the MAF in the main setting and leave the MAF Map alone, but building a MAF map (which is pretty simple if you are only capping voltage is fairly easy. It would look like this:

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/9099/mafmap.jpg

My maf map is 0, is this normal?

I would like to know why my car to idle is not stable, the needle moves up and down one marking poor mixing.
Could it be because I have not the resistance in the crankshaft?

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/2513/mafmap.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/23/mafmap.png/)

[newbye]

Sorry I do not understand what you mean.

[woodrow00gts-t]

You should make your MAF map look like the one Turbokits has posted. And trying cleaning you idle air control valve. Then let us know what happens

[woodrow00gts-t]

the MAF map doesnt go negative. only positive. that being said i tried going to 8.7, and it would only let me go to 5.8 and it still misfires. it didnt fix it for me. so now what?

[TurboKits.com]

Check your main system setting in set up, you probably don't have it set to voltage or percent -vs MAF, MAP or TPS... You have to chose the right sequence. Which is why I want to see what Mat did with a screenshot.

the MAF map doesnt go negative. only positive. that being said i tried going to 8.7, and it would only let me go to 5.8 and it still misfires. it didnt fix it for me. so now what?

[woodrow00gts-t]

Ok cool, I think I got it setup. I'm gonna load it to the fic tonight and see what happens on the way to work in the morning

[newbye]

If I understand where it says load input, I have to put MAF. If you see something else tell me I have to change.

Do we then I have to try running the car for you to see my maf map?

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/4192/sinttuloymd.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/sinttuloymd.png/)

[TurboKits.com]

Cool, let us know!

Ok cool, I think I got it setup. I'm gonna load it to the fic tonight and see what happens on the way to work in the morning


Yes, load input you want MAF. If you are going to remove voltage based on percent, then use percent and leave everything 0 except where you want to make changes. If you want to it to be a straight voltage clamp, then set it to voltage and copy our map above.

If I understand where it says load input, I have to put MAF. If you see something else tell me I have to change.

Do we then I have to try running the car for you to see my maf map?

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/4192/sinttuloymd.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/sinttuloymd.png/)

[woodrow00gts-t]

ran absolutely awful. almost made me late to work, it ran so bad i had to turn around down the block and i barely made it home. had to take my good ol SRT-4.

i changed the setting from voltage to percent and it wont even stay running. what did i do wrong? it acts like its not even close to the same tune. it goes so incredibly rich it cuts power and misses and carries on. dies when i shift and try to stop. its bad.

[MatG0]

If you change it to % set all values to zero except values in full boost and lift rpm. Dont forget to reset the oem ecu. I will try to post my map tomorrow. It is raining here so im not able to test anything

[woodrow00gts-t]

alright, ill try that tomorrow. feel free to pm me a map if you'd like

[TurboKits.com]

Yeah, what MatG0 said, if you change in the master setting what the map is based off, you need to then set the map accordingly. What it sounds like you did was change the settings, but not the map, so the signal the FIC was sending the ECU was waaayyyyy off. Hopefully MatG0 can post his map so you can see exactly what was done. Thanks

ran absolutely awful. almost made me late to work, it ran so bad i had to turn around down the block and i barely made it home. had to take my good ol SRT-4.

i changed the setting from voltage to percent and it wont even stay running. what did i do wrong? it acts like its not even close to the same tune. it goes so incredibly rich it cuts power and misses and carries on. dies when i shift and try to stop. its bad.

If you change it to % set all values to zero except values in full boost and lift rpm. Dont forget to reset the oem ecu. I will try to post my map tomorrow. It is raining here so im not able to test anything

alright, ill try that tomorrow. feel free to pm me a map if you'd like

[woodrow00gts-t]

So all zeros except lift and full boost? Because full boost is the area where the MAF is getting maxed out probably right?

[TurboKits.com]

I would need to see MatG0's map to clarify. But I think that is what he is saying.

So all zeros except lift and full boost? Because full boost is the area where the MAF is getting maxed out probably right?

[MatG0]

Here is the map. It is roughly but it could be good start point for you. Im able to pass 7000rpm with this setting.

http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/aem11.JPG

[woodrow00gts-t]

I think my MAF map looks a bit different but I have mine offset to -11.7

Runs awesome! Ive got all 8250 rpm!! Pulls hard

[newbye]

I also am going to try

[newbye]

I put the same as Matgo and I have not worked. What I have wrong?

[woodrow00gts-t]

Try setting the value to a larger number. I had to go to -11.7 to get all of my rpm back. At -7.8 it didn't fix mine

[newbye]

Can you take a picture to your maf map please?, Thanks friend.

[MatG0]

Try setting the value to a larger number. I had to go to -11.7 to get all of my rpm back. At -7.8 it didn't fix mine

Yes, it could be better set to -11,7.. Im still sometimes misfiring at 4th gear

Can you take a picture to your maf map please?, Thanks friend.

only set all blue/checked collums from my map to -11,7. Instead of -6,3 and -7,8

[newbye]

ok thanks so proves this afternoon.

[woodrow00gts-t]

Matgo, do you have the resistor mod done?

[MatG0]

Matgo, do you have the resistor mod done?

I think I disconected it time ago, because it has not any effect.. I must check it.

[woodrow00gts-t]

Ok well reconnecting them now should give you an effect because it is supposed to help work out those small misfires like you say you occasionally have in 4th gear. Not the big misfire we were having because of the MAF map setup. You should try them again they should help out hopefully

[newbye]

What resistance we put in the harness of the aem fic?. I think I need some resistance. I did not buy the harness, a friend made the connections will not know if that's the problem.

[newbye]

I can not stand the aem fic but all are problems. I'll buy a Apexi fc now.

[woodrow00gts-t]

If you don't know how to tune, then the Apexi might be difficult for you to use.

[newbye]

I have an expert who makes me maps of the Apexi and aem, the problem is that the aem does not work well in my car.

My car is doing weird things, the needle of the rev goes crazy when I drive, the car is suddenly rich or poor ...

We put the connections and I do not know if they are well placed and there is where I need the resistors. I get just as expensive to buy the harness specific for the aem fic, to buy a Apexi and then sell my aem.

[woodrow00gts-t]

Pm sent

Check the ground bolts on the engine head. The 2 on the side near the battery. That can cause weird spikes like that. It happened to me.