PDA

View Full Version : views please re second batterys,power caps etc


SteveM
12-24-2001, 04:15 PM
Ok heres the score I'm currently working on my boot install,done the sub enclosure and base of the false floor (will post some pics,need to test if I can post pics within a message from a Yahoo photo book) and I've got to the stage where the amps need to be postioned in the spare wheel well,but I need some views/input on the following before I continue.

1.I'm using two Alpine V12 amps,the combined power output is (880w max),310w rms at 12v/440w rms at 14.4v,The total fuse rating is somewhere between 60-70 amps.I've been thinking of going for a battery isolator and an Optima yellow top for the amps.I'm wondering if anyone who is using simular amp power has found that maybe a second batt is req.I don't want to spend out on the isolator and batt if its not really required.If the general view is that its not needed I will just replace the starter batt with a red top when needed.

2.If I do go for a second batt,the amps will be getting the perm live from this but the switched/remote live from the start batt (Via H/unit).I'm 99 percent sure this is ok (Just sounds unsafe) can anyone confirm

3.Its my understanding that the power cap is there to deliver a surge of power quickly and without voltage drop when the bass kicks in,as the std power source ie bat and alternator cant always provide.If I do use a second batt for the amps will I not require a cap as the second batt is only working the amps and nothing else in the electrical system.If I just stick with the one batt I will be going for a 1 Farad cap.

4.The height of the Optima batteries is quoted as 195mm for the red top and 199mm for the yellow,bit of a long shot but would anyone know if this is based on the casing only or if its the height of the casing plus the terminals.

5.Does anyone know the output of the Std alternator,mine is a VVT-i model (like the US GT,but with a 6-spd box)but it does have all the electric options.

Sorry for the length of the questions,but these are all things I need to consider before I build the platform for the amps so any views,idea,comments etc would be very welcome.

Holly **** its now Christmas morning

Happy Christmas and all that

Steve

staackman
12-25-2001, 02:02 AM
okay lets see if i can help...
1....i have 150 amp draw from my alpine system...have optima yellow top, two one farad caps and an alternator thats almost dead...you might not need to worry depending on what your amps are running-subs or mids and highs? mid/high amp won't actually draw max...sub will
2...with iso;ator and turn on coming from head unit you are safe
3...yes and no...even with second battery i would recomend cap if you are spl/bass freak
4...yellow top had no problem clearing...consider a stinger battery for smaller size and more power...unfortunately higher price
5...not enough and my alternator guy can't upgrade mine anymore than he did..had to use truck parts and i got lost...if anyone knows of an upgrade let me know...

sorry so long hope i helped

SteveM
12-26-2001, 06:38 AM
Stackmaan,thanks for the responce.

You say you have a yellow top,is this in place of the std battery or as a second batt?

The amps I'm using are the MRV-F407,drawing 40 amp max running the four corner channels at full range and a MRV-T407,25 amps max running the sub a single 12.I know that this is not a large system by any means.But I had a simular system in my previous car and there was a few times when its like is the car going to start or what.Do you find that the yellow top solves this.

What I will probably do is make provision for a space for a second batt should I need it.But first see how the std batt copes and uprate this first to a red top if req.I will of course be going for the 1 Farad cap what ever.

Thanks again for the reply,and if any others could provide me with details of their amp draw and how the battery has/hasn't coped I would be very grateful

Steve