ALL WHO REPLACED LIFT BOLT YOURSELF---" IF I REPLACE THE BOLT MYSELF?- How Hard?"

[celica001]

Ok guys lets get this STRAIGHT, and lets get the people tat HAVE FIXED THEIR BOLTS here now.

Can i do this myself? - i never opened an engine.

If i put it back to gether, wat happens if something leaks?

Can i **** this up?

I can work on cars, I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING on MY OWN, can i do this?

WHY does the TSB make this sound so hard?--- IF the BOLT IS broken, what should i do?

The other posts say YOU JUST AHVE TO TAKE THE BOLT OUT, why is the dealerships making this so hard?

Please STRAIGHT ANSWERS FROM SOMEONE THAT HAS DONE THIS, also if anyone in the PHILLY AREA OR NEWJERSY ARE willingly to help me do mine i will pay u.

thanks all for your help.

[loudceli]

This is very easy if they are not broken. Just pull the valve cover and they are the golden looking bolts near the cam sprockets. If they're broken then you might be able to use a magnet. I had to pull the rocker shaft because the other half was stuck. I replaced mine while replacing a melted valve, so the cylinderhead was off.

Need to just pull the cams and the oil control valve so you can shift the rocker shaft towards the passenger side. This is how I got the other half of the bolt out. Could be diffcult without manual because of torque specs and tightening pattern for roller bearings. This is definately not a job for the not so mechanically inclned.

[celica001]

thanks man, anybody esle think i cant do this? or have any comments? i really feel i can do it...jsut worried botu when i am putting the vavle cover back on.....

[loudceli]

If you can do an intake, you can do a valve cover. Just a few bolts and hoses.

[celica001]

aihgt i can do that....i have put on ALOT of intakes....

[LoCore]

I suggest that you take a look at the TSB to see all of the work that is involved with this project.

I think the estimate was for 6.5 hours--that's a hell of a lot more work than an intake.

[loudceli]

The valve cover takes less time than an intake. It's if the bolts are broken and the other half won't come out that will take 6.5 hours.

[uansari]

So can someone who's done this before, can they do a write-up on it? At least just for those of us who's bolts aren't broken?

Thanks,

Usman

[TRD StreetRacing]

i took my cover off and checked it out for my self, but i dont' think i will be able to take the broken bolt off. plus i don't have any guildlines to go by and torque specs to use. i would do more harm than good

[Griffin]

The bolt inspection is cake - anyone thats mechanically inclined can do it. All the procedures and torque specs are very clearly listed in the TSB. And I doubt anyone could do a writeup better than whats in that TSB already.

That being said I have done the operation to remove the peice of broken bolt and it IS a bitch. It took forever because the stupid peice of broken bolt popped down the timing chain cover when I pushed the rocker shaft over. If you have ever replaced a camshaft and you feel confident you can time the engine back up properly then you can probably do this. If not you have the potential to bend valves if you put it back together out of time. To be honest, my opinion on most engine operations is that if you can do something you generally already know you can. If you have to ask the answer is probably that you would be better off getting help from a friend.

As for leaks, if you order the gaskets it says to and follow the directions there won't be any.

[celica001]

aight....well i am ordering all the parts that were on that TSB today, than i will do this biatch myself, see what the hell happens. thanks guys for ur help, lets hope the bolt aint broken, and that its just worn down or soemthing. peace.

[loudceli]

good luck

[Da Kine Guy]

OMG people discussing about doing their own work on their Celica!!! *sniff* This board is growing up :wtc:

[celica001]

all parts ordered!!!!!!! dealership discount! dunno the final price...but this will be done!

[icyjaws]

as griffin says as long as the bolt isn't broken its easy. If it is broken its ALOT harder and be carefull otherwise you could end up like me and spend roughly 700 to replace bent valves.

[Tryan77]

CR*P.....now that I've been reading this stuff, I'm wondering about my bolt. If you have a 00, do you even need to check the VIN#? In otherwords, ALL the 00s are withing the VIN range.

Anyway, now I'm getting paranoid that mine might be broke or maybe just worn waiting for me to get past 60k before shearing off. (Being hot an humid around here really reduces the lift "hit")

Do you still have the same concerns with the new bolts, do they have a greater shear strength?

I'd check mine, but I'm not sure anything is wrong and I will have to by the gaskets -- If I go that far I might was well replace the bolt.

[icyjaws]

for $15 or so and like 2hrs max work its worth the peice of mind if you ask me. Cause if you let it break you going to wish you checked it.

[mickey513]

Just print out the TSB and bring it your local mechanic shop. Show them if they can replace it and ask how much.

[spectra_freak]

I'm a moron...please point me to the TSB. I checked in the TSB area and could not find the one for broken lift bolt. I know I've seen it around here before.

[powercx]

What TSB are you guys talking about? How would you know if you have a problem with the bolt? Will lift not work?

[spectra_freak]

I think it's safe to assume that ANYONE with a 2000 or 2001 (and some 2002) GT-S should replace the lift bolt before turning 60,000 miles as preventative maintenance. It's over $700.00 if the thing breaks. I want to print out the TSB, get the parts, and do the replacement before mine breaks. I'm at 60,000 miles now. Once it breaks you either have NO lift or you have intermitent lift. Someone please point me to the article that shows you the procedure for this. Thanks.

[powercx]

I found it.

http://justchil.net/celica/celicagts.pdf

[spectra_freak]

You rock. Thanks.

[spectra_freak]

Any update on this?

[00CericaRuss]

i'm curious about this....

here's the questions that i haven't found answers for by reading all the threads on this

a) will a worn bolt make your lift less strong?

b) when checking the bolt, and only checking, is it necessary to put the crank pulley to tdc?

c) does the drive belt need to be removed?

d) the new bolts from toyota, are they stronger than the bolts that came w/my celi that was built in 10/99?

i'm assuming that the tdc and the removal of the drivebelt are only needed for actual dissasembly of the top end to remove the broken bolt, not to replace a non-broken or worn bolt.... correct?

[Griffin]

Originally posted by 00CericaRuss
i'm curious about this....

here's the questions that i haven't found answers for by reading all the threads on this

a) will a worn bolt make your lift less strong?

b) when checking the bolt, and only checking, is it necessary to put the crank pulley to tdc?

c) does the drive belt need to be removed?

d) the new bolts from toyota, are they stronger than the bolts that came w/my celi that was built in 10/99?

i'm assuming that the tdc and the removal of the drivebelt are only needed for actual dissasembly of the top end to remove the broken bolt, not to replace a non-broken or worn bolt.... correct?

a) will a worn bolt make your lift less strong?
Not unless its about to break or VERY worn to the point where the rocker shaft oil feed holes stop lining up with the rocker arms. I'm not even sure it coudl wear that much without breaking so probably the answer is no.

b) when checking the bolt, and only checking, is it necessary to put the crank pulley to tdc?
No not at all - all you have to do is remove the valve cover.

c) does the drive belt need to be removed?
I assume you mean to inspect it so the answer is no. To replace it yes because you have to move the belt tensioner to get to the chain tensioner.

d) the new bolts from toyota, are they stronger than the bolts that came w/my celi that was built in 10/99?
They should be. The TSB doesn't say it, but since the design and surface finish have both changed I think its safe to assume the new one is stronger.

[00CericaRuss]

griff... thanks a bunch yet again... you are indeed the man...

one last question.

would it be worth my time to replace my lift bolts for the just in case scenario or as a preventative maintenance type of thing?

I've got ~ 45k on my car, and go in and out of lift a good 5x easily just driving a mile. i like lift.. alot... i use it way too much ... so.. if it's gonna go... i have a feeling it would happen to me.

[kenjo]

hey griffin do you mean that if you replace the bolt even though it is not broken you have take off the belt and belt tensioner to get to the chain tensioner?

[Griffin]

Originally posted by 00CericaRuss
griff... thanks a bunch yet again... you are indeed the man...

one last question.

would it be worth my time to replace my lift bolts for the just in case scenario or as a preventative maintenance type of thing?

I've got ~ 45k on my car, and go in and out of lift a good 5x easily just driving a mile. i like lift.. alot... i use it way too much ... so.. if it's gonna go... i have a feeling it would happen to me.

I sure think so - at least in my opinion its deff. worth checking. If your bolts aren't at all worn theres no point, but at less than a buck a pop may as well have em on hand. And I can tell you from first hand experience that its WAY easier to get to em before they break.

[Griffin]

Originally posted by kenjo
hey griffin do you mean that if you replace the bolt even though it is not broken you have take off the belt and belt tensioner to get to the chain tensioner?

Sorry - I was unclear there. To inspect or replace an UNBROKEN bolt it is NOT necessary to mess with the belt or belt tensioner at all. Only if its broken. Sorry bout the confusion.

[spectra_freak]

Yo Griffin...you seem to know quite a bit about this lift bolt fiasco. My documentation says to do the following.

Part 1:
A. Disconnect the neg. and pos. batter terminal.
B. Remove the battery tie-down bracket and batter.
C. Remove the 4 bolts and No. 2 cylinder head cover.
D. Remove the ignition coils.
E. Remove the wiring harness and protector from cylinder head cover.
F. Diconnect the 2 PVC hoses from the cylinder head cover.
G. Remove the drive belt.
H. Remove the 2 nuts, 1 bolt and disconnect the No. 3 ventilation hose form the No. 1 ventilation pipe.
I. Remove the No. 1 ventilation pipe and gasket.
J. Remove the 9 bolts, pull back the wire harness protector and remove the cylinder head cover and gasket.
K. Remove the O-ring from the cylinder head cover oil supply pipe.

Part 2:
A. Set No. 1 cylinder to TDC/compression.
B. Check that the point marks of the camshaft timing sprockets are in a straight line on the timing chain cover surface with the exhaust cam dot set one tooth above as show.

Part 3:
Remove and inspect bolts to confirm separation (or wear).

Then it goes into more of the procedure assuming it's broken. Here's the question that I have...If your bolts ARE NOT BROKEN and only worn, do you still have to do all of the above if you are just replacing the ones that you assume will eventually break? I've done some minor mechanical work, but never messed with compression settings or timing marks. I'm wondering if I can pull this off. I think many of us are wondering the same thing. I don't want to fug up my car, but I know my bolts will break soon. I'm just over 60,000 miles and I hit lift easily 5 times per day. That's why I bought the car. Thanks for your wisdom.

-Freak

[kenjo]

i think he already answered all of our questions

[spectra_freak]

I think you're right. I think the answer to my questions was:

b) when checking the bolt, and only checking, is it necessary to put the crank pulley to tdc?
No not at all - all you have to do is remove the valve cover.

Sorry.

[Griffin]

Originally posted by spectra_freak
I think you're right. I think the answer to my questions was:

b) when checking the bolt, and only checking, is it necessary to put the crank pulley to tdc?
No not at all - all you have to do is remove the valve cover.

Sorry.

No worries. And yeah thats correct. to inspect you just need to remove the valve cover. I imagine the TSB was written with the assumption that the tech will be attempting to fix a lift inop condition so there would be a high degree of probability that the bolt would be broken.

[daSchtick]

Welps, my bolts must have finally crapped out on me, because as of this morning, my lift is COMPLETELY gone. I have an appointment at the dealer (warranty), and they have already replaced quite a few since the release of the TSB. (And yes, my oil is at the 'full' mark!)

[ohwhatafeeling]

Why can I not find this TSB and why is the link above not found??? Can someone please point me in the right direction...I'm going crazy....

[mirconrice]

here you go man, celica001 has it on his download page, http://www5.streamload.com/celica001

[ohwhatafeeling]

I still can't download it...I get all the way to the "Bulk Download" button, then it starts and a couple of seconds later, a file starts blinking uncontrollably on my screen, and I have to reboot the system to make it go away. Its happened 4 times already, and the last time it wouldn't even let me reboot it...I just had to shut the computer off. WTF?

[mirconrice]

i'll put it on a ftp server tomorrow when I get into work so you can download it.