Attn: AutX (Scott)

[Jose]

Where can I get the Porterfield RS-4 pads. Are these the ones that I need for street use, which wont eat my discs.
How much will these cost?

Other thing is, 225-45-16 for the stock GTS wheel, fits with no problem. Do you recomend another 16 size.


What can I do to upgrade my brakes?????

I know a few things like steel braided lines, brake fluid, Port pads, you said once something about removing something from the brakes for better ventilation.


Thanks.

[autxr]

OK, first off, if it isn't broken then don't fix it (words I need to learn to live by). Have you ever had the brakes fade on you, if so, what were you doing at the time. If not, then why upgrade them?

For going on track I would start with the Porterfields (R-4S for street and moderate track use, R4 for track only, count on $130-150 for a set of front pads, stock rear should be fine) and see how they do with no other modifications. If you overheat them then you need to think about cooling things down a bit. the first thing to do is remove the backing plates from behind the front rotors (thin metal plates that keep dirt and water off the brakes, but also help keep the heat in).

Next would be cooling ducts and then even higher heat range pads. If all of those fail then think about the big $$$ big brake upgrades.

The only real need for stainless lines is if you heat things up so much that you melt the stock rubber lines (Mustangs are notorious for this).

No matter what you do, before trying to do hot laps where your life depends on going from 100 mph to 30 mph in 5 seconds, make sure to put good (and fresh) brake fluid in the car. Motul 600 is one of hte most popular choices. No matter how good the brakes are, if the fluid boils you are no going to have fun. Anyone that spends more than one weekend on track will be an expert at bleeding the brakes.

As for tires, unless you are running a race tire (Hoosier radial, Kuhmo RACE tire, etc) then I wouldn't run a 225/45-16. that is too big and will only slow you down. How well would you run a race with shoes that are too big or small? Exactly. The car is the same way. You might be able to fit a bigger tire on the rim, but it would be like trying to put a shoe 2 sizes too small onto your foot.

Stick with 205/50-16 or if you feel some need to spend money then go with a 215/45-16 (the cost of those tires will pay for a lot of track time). At this point I can make you over 10 seconds faster on a 2 mile road course just by making you drive better, those tires won't make you a better driver.


Here is where I'd get the Porterfield pads:

Geoff Mohler gemohler@speedtoys.com

Tell him Scott J. from the old Celica club sent you. Please don't bother him unless you are serious. He has personal experience with the R-4 and R-4S on the 7th gen Celica and 3rd gen MR2 (both in track settings)


Scott

[Jose]

WOW! Scott, thanks for spending so much time writing just to teach me new things I really learned something, thanks a lot!


First I need new pads cause my front pads are almost dying and starting to make noise and I feel the car is not braking that good anymore.

About the tires, I got 17 in wheels on my car but for the autoX's, I use the stock GTS wheels with the stock yokos, this tires are very bold and I need new 4 tires. I'm going with street new tires so youre telling I should go with 215-45-16 instead of 225's right?
How about 225-40 or 215-40 wich size do you recomend me, where I race here in PR. the track has like 3 "S" curves one "hair pin" and one a little wide open "U" turn and a few straights where you only go to 4th gear.

About the cooling ducts how can I do this?

As of for bars which one do you think is the best one or the best combo, that wount make my car handle rough on my daily driving.
I cant use the front strut bar cause my car got hit on the front left side and the bar just wount fit even modyfing it.

So what do you think...

Thanks in advance.

sincerely,

Jose.

[scapamouche]

Jose, what class or type of racing are you running in?

That makes a big difference on what changes anyone suggests for you.

Are race tires allowed? Street tires only?

By bars, I assume you mean strut tower braces? Or swaybars?

For strut braces, I've been very happy with the 2 point NC.org rear strut bar I got from Racinjason. I think there's an order form on the homepage of NC.org.

For swaybars, I just installed the Hotchkis rear bar, and it's great! The car is absolutely neutral- no oversteer or understeer (tested at an autox already.) Of course, none of my suspension except the front swaybar is stock- Tein coilover kit, front and rear underbraces, front and rear Strut braces. Hotchkis doesn't sell the bar alone, though, so it's expensive if you leave the front bar off the car (like I have.)

[autxr]

A little tire theory here. You seem to have the mistaken impression that no matter what wider is better.

Think of the tire as 2 parts. The tread and the sidewall. The tread is pretty simple, it is a flat part. The sidewall is more complicated.

What the sidewall really is, is a spring. The shorter the sidewall the stiffer the spring.

So, with only the "simple" part of the analogy in place you think "stiffer springs are good, so shorter sidewalls are better."

Partly true.

Look at the wheel, that is what supports the spring. The stock GTS rims are 6.5 inches wide, kind of skinny.

A 205/50-16 tire will look roughly like this |_| nice vertical sidewalls and a flat tread.

Take the same width rim and put a 225 width tire on it and now you end up with /_\ See, not vertical anymore. The angle you introduce has the net effect of reducing the spring rate (not to mention driving the folks at the tire shop just plain nuts).

So, since the angle doesn't support the car as well (softer spring) you may well go backwards in performance.

Now for the next effect...

Since tires are not liquid, somehting has to give when you mount them up, that nice wide trad has moved the sidewalls (that want to be vertical) outward, so when you squeeze them in on a thin rim something has to give, it isn't jus tthe sidewall, the tire tread will actually bow. Now you have lifted the sides of the tire up and have the same width tire as a 205 width, because the bowed up parts are not in contact with the road.

The partial exception to all these ruls are the DOT race tires (Hoosier radials, etc). They ahve exceptionally stiff sidewalls, so you still have adequate support even when theya re shoehorned onto a skinny rim.

If I were buying high performance street tires I would stick witha 205/50-16 for the stock GTS wheels, it will give a nice combination of grip and crisp steering response.

Scott

[Jose]

Thanks a lot!


So If You were me which tire size do you buy and what brand, I'm gonna buy what tell me.

The tire has to be for street!.

We can use soft compound tires but I will be in a higher category.

Right now on my category I doing very well!

So what you think?

Thanks.

[autxr]

Cost is an object:

Falken Azien (205/55-16)
Kuhmo Ecsta 712 (205/50-16)

Cost is no object:
Falken Azien (205/55-16)
Bridgesone S03 (205/50-16)
Stock Yokohama A680 (205/50-16)
Yokohama A520 (205/50-16)


I've found the stock Yokohamas to be quite good tires for autocross, very progressive at the limit with a lot of grip. They will overheat if pushed too hard.

Scott

[Fourgig]

Does anyone know how good the wet traction is with the Azenis?

I need an autocross tire that's better than the Kuhmo 712, but it must have good wet traction since it will also be my daily driver.

I'd be getting an Azenis in 195/55R15 but I'm kind of leaning towards getting the Potenza S-03 in a 205/55WR15. But they're $114 per tire.

[Karim]

fourgig a friend of mone was in your same situation, he got the azenis and after about a month it finally rained and pretty hard (it doens't rain much in vegas but when it does man it's a doosy) he said if he wasn't extra careful those things were spinning and he about hydroplaned twice after hitting standing water at about 35. He then went out and bought some really cheap new rims with some all-season touring tires (that he could barely afford) and would use those for daily driving. He said if he could do it all over again he would've went for the S0-3's

Karim

[autxr]

I concur, my impression is that the Aziens are not a good wet weather tire other than a light mist on the road, they will not handle deep water.

I was very impressed with the Wet weather traction of my old set of Yokohama A520's. They handled a tropical storm and were already nearly to the wear bars!

Scott

[Jose]

Thanks.


Should I go for the Kumhos or the A520's how about this size 215-45-16 in either brand? Or should I go with the 205-50 Price doesnt matter between this two.
SO3 are expensive.


Thanks again.

[Jose]

Which sway bars should I go for, which brand.

Wish one do you recommend the front the rear or both.

Thanks again.

[autxr]

Can't comment on the sway bars, I still run the stock ones. Buy 2 or 3 different bars and start trying them out (that's what die hard racers do...) depending on the weather, you may switch bars...

Suspension modifications should not be made because someone sells a part they should be made in order to address somehandling deficiency. What is the car doing that you want to change now?

As for the tires, the Yokohama will not last as long but will grip better.

And, yes, today, I will still pick the 205/50 first. Ask me again tomorrow and that will be my answer as well.

http://www.yokohamatire.com/04b2c.html

Yokohama suggests wider than 6.5 inch rims for the 215/40. Run a 225/50 if you want, the taller sidewalls make it less of a stretch. It will add weight and make the gearing taller, so you will be slower, but if you really want wider, then do it (I can't seem to convince you otherwise).

If you really want a lower profile then run a 205/45, they will fit (I did that with the Yokohama and didn't like it, too stiff).

Scott

[scapamouche]

I recommend only a rear sway bar. It made a HUGE difference on my celica. The car is totally neutral, and much quicker on the autox course since I did my swaybar.

Like I said above, the hotchkis bar is really good, but can only be bought in pairs, so it's pretty expensive. I can't speak for any other swaybar. A thicker rear swaybar is only going to help the balance of the car, though. There is a limit where running thicker in the back will make the car too tight in back, but I don't know if any of the other bars out there reach that.

If you do a lot or racing and you need to race on your daily drivers, I'd say go with the Kumhos. In my experience, Yokos grip well, but don't wear well. The ecstas give up a bit of dry traction, but a re really good in the wet, and are inexpensive, and wear well. Mine have 7 autocrosses and 14,000 miles on them and have plenty of life left to them. $78 apeice in 205/50/16, last time I checked.

[autxr]

Of course your car did push in the turns (particularly on initial turn in from what I recall), so a sway bar helped with that...

It was a response to a problem.

Scott

[Jose]

Thanks Scott.

Now I am really convince!

I think I might go with Kumhos's. Is not to be that much of a difference in comparison to the A520's and also the Kumhos are cheaper.

Can you explain me about the treadwear # and the traction letters on the tire. If it is higher then what if lower what...
One A or two AA what's the difference?

What you think of the Nitto's 555 not the 555R drag radial the plain 555's.

As of the bar I think im going with the rear one. Hotchkis maybe?


Thanks again.

[autxr]

Treadwear numbers are rather arbitrary. Basically If Yokohama has a treadwear of 100, then a treadware rating of 200 should give a tire that lasts 2 times as long.

The problem is, a treadwear rating of 100 at Yokohama may be a rating of 200 at Kuhmo, it is arbitrary.

Generally the lower the number the softer (and stickier) the tread compound. Anything below about 100 qill qualify as a R compound tire. I've never seen a street tire below 120.

A vs AA, the AA is a new rating (only a few years old) and is to adress wet traction (I think "traction" is only in reference to braking), AA gets high marks in dry and wet braking. A will either be not as good in the wet or will be an older tire befor ethey tested them in the wet. All the tire markings are covered here:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/sidewall.htm

And the "Traction rating" is here:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/utqg.htm

I don't know a lot about the NT555, it looks to be a good tire to me, I don't know anyone that has used them. I do know folks that autocross (sucessfully, even) on the NT555R drag tires, they actually do make a decent autocross tire.

For the rear bar, I'd find out how thick the different options are (Suspension techniques, Addco?, Hotchkiss and TRD?). In all honesty, if they are all within 1 or 2mm of each other, I'd buy the cheapest one (or the one that is in stock). I doubt there is a big difference.

Scott

[Jose]

Thanks a lot Scott youve been very helpful to me, thanks again!