Shock Adjustment holes (revisited)

[nxracer]

I just ordered two Plastic Access Hatches from McMaster-Carr. They have a 3 7/8 diameter hole and a 6" diameter mounting flange

http://home.attbi.com/~nxracer/celicagt/temp/access_panel.jpg

Click Here (http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/2688.html) and scroll down to "Plastic Access Hatches" part number 1123A42

If they don't work I'm out a whopping $2.26 each

[DaksGT]

thats extremely clever

[pitcrew]

Just did Driver's yesterday. cut a rectangular cutout to extend the cut in the side panel up as high as the hole in the metal behind it, ~ 1-1/2" x 2" or so to allow my homemade ratcheting adjuster wrench to reach the shock. Looking at a number of options for a cover, I finally realized that the milk bottle tray covers a large enough portion of the side panels that I could cut some slightly oversized covers out of the hidden area. will attach the covers with one of the color matched plastic push in plugs like attaches the rear panel. Looks factory at a glance!
That port looks rather large/not in the right place for what is needed, unless you have cut the metal as well.

[nxracer]

I haven't even opened up the panels to see (for myself) what's back there yet (shocks are still in the box) but like I said they cost me a whole $2.26 each so if they don't work it's no great loss.

[pitcrew]

The top of the shock is only accessable through a trapazoidal shaped hole in the face of the metal strut tower that is ~ 3" at the base, 2" at the top, and about 4" tall, it is located behind the raised portion of the milk jug tray. To remove the tray to see what you'll be dealing with, remove the 2 push pins by pushing in their center and lifting them out, then tug the tray upwards to snap loose and you'll see the lower portion of the hole and the top of the shock mount inside of it below the side panel. It only extends up <2" more. It is too small to get the shock adjuster tool onto it, and wouldn't be able to turn it even if you left it in there. I built a wrench out of a ratcheting box wrench to turn the adjuster, but there is only just enough room to get one click per swing. I can now adjust ours without removing the tray. We have AX schools for the next two weekends, so I hope to experiment with the adjustment to see what it's effect is.

[B1mmer]

I assume Charles did a similar setup to what I did. I got the idea from Mason Thomas, so he deserves the credit. I've attached a zip file for those that are interested in the setup. Regards, Aaron

[autxr]

I set up the Koni tool last night, and so far am not very happy with it. You don't get a very good feel for where the adjustment is and you can barely see where to put the thing (with all the side panels removed). Much less than ideal.

The hardest thing will be getting things aligned.

One modification to this tool that I've considered is this one:
http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/squeezewrench.html

The squeez wrench (as seen on tv) would allow the access hole to be smaller, but has the problem of not being offset.

I hate to say it, but I might resort to drilling metal and plastic for a screwdriver type of tool, much better feel.

Scott

[pitcrew]

My solution to the adjuster tool is all metal for durability, I've tested it with and without the panels n place and it works well, especially after I marked the slot in the tool for orientation. On the 02 at least, there is no panel below the area covered by the tray so the 1/2 moon shown in Aaron's diagram would be unnecessary. I set my offset ratchet box the other way around, and cut the panel above where the tray would cover to make it easier to see the shock adjuster and not have to remove the tray.
I still have to get two of the panel colored push pins to attach my covers with.
Scott, I tried the screwdriver approach. It worked fine without the interior panels, but there was no good way to provide access with the plastic panels in place. I considered a flexible cable and knob installation, but found the shock adjusters were too stiff for any cable I found, it wanted to twist up rather than turn. I guess you could permanently install a connector made from 1/4" drive extentions and universal (s), but that would require a fair amount of fabrication and expense. Email me if you want to kick around some ideas...

[pitcrew]

Well I tried to add pix of what I did, but it didn't work? If anyone would like to see them, email me...

[nxracer]

I like pitcrew's access holes (my hatches were too big) so I have made yet another version of the "adjustment" tool

http://home.attbi.com/~nxracer/celicagt/temp/konitool_01.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~nxracer/celicagt/temp/konitool_02.jpg

[GTS LAID]

do you have a pic of it in the grand scheme of things so that i can localize it in the trunk area?

[nxracer]

Sure these are pitcrews holes

http://home.attbi.com/~nxracer/celicagt/temp/pitcrews_shockhole_open.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~nxracer/celicagt/temp/pitcrews_shockhole_closed.jpg

Photo size reduced to save bandwidth

[GTS LAID]

ahhh. thanks... and this is gonna sound real dumb considering i've been following this exact thread since it started... but what exactly are you adjusting in the shock?

[autxr]

The adjustment is for the Koni rebound stiffness

[Unity112]

Looks pretty clean, unlike my gaping holes in my trunk space. :thumbup:

[GTS LAID]

ahhh.. only for konis though.. cause i thought the teins could be adjusted from the outside...

[scapamouche]

Not so. But, you can get to the tein adjust without cutting holes. The opening under the jug tray on each side is enough to get to the adjuster on the rop of the shock.

OF course, before I knew this, I cut massive holes in my plastics for access. :(