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Celica Coolant Bleeding Procedure

215K views 93 replies 50 participants last post by  dentman 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Celica Coolant Bleeding Procedure

This is the method I have found to work best for bleeding the coolant at home in the driveway. There are better ways (vacuum system) if you have a fully equipped automotive shop. This is merely my opinion, not an official or approved repair, and I take no responsibility for the health and wellbeing of anyone who uses it or their vehicles.

Important Note: The engine and hoses will get hot so be sure to wear gloves and keep your hands clear of the belts and fans.

EDIT: Due to VBulletin changes the original procedure was lost. Post #67 on page 2 contains the bleeding procedure.
 
#27 ·
Nice thread boosted. One thing, how much coolant is needed for the change? Have you seen this :http://www.kinwaymotorsports.com/index.do is that worth getting, or shall i just stick to the normal pink toyota stuff. my car has only done 48k on a 2001 model, but due to various reasons, ive had to fill lots of it with water when i lost coolant and ive heard for our engines this is bad... may also explain why my fan is kicking in more than usual.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Great write up. I'm not sure but is this true I remember doing it awhile back but forgot exactly. I know it's in the shop manual but I just want to make sure. When you are filling the coolant before it levels off during each fill you have to start the motor to let the coolant cycle correct and during this process is it normal for the motors fan to turn on?

On your step here it says:

"Step 8
 
#35 ·
zheng17 said:
Open the reservoir cap and "the while bleeder" <<- what is the while bleeder?

there is a small white bleeder plug on the top of the coolant bottle.


zheng17 said:
anyone know?

These are directions on how to bleed air from the system not how to flush the coolant. This is what you do aster you drain the coolant. to drain it just open the petcock on the bottom drivers side of the radiator and remove the radiator cap.
 
#36 ·
SLVR Stealth said:
Great write up. I'm not sure but is this true I remember doing it awhile back but forgot exactly. I know it's in the shop manual but I just want to make sure. When you are filling the coolant before it levels off during each fill you have to start the motor to let the coolant cycle correct and during this process is it normal for the motors fan to turn on?

On your step here it says:

"Step 8
 
#37 ·
After doing all that steps.. start the car (Fan wont go on), let it idle for couple mins. turn the heater on, temperature should be fine but if it shoots up to "H".. open the reservoir main cap while the car still on.. and watch the gauge. It should go back to normal, after that fan will go on. and dont forget to close the reservoir before you slam the hood. It works for me, It should work for you.
 
#38 ·
this thread i about "coolant bleeding" but does anyone know how to flush the coolanton a '00 GTS 2ZZGE? And when should the coolant be flushed? i live in NJ, where is very cold in winter, and very hot in summer. Also, is it vital to use toyota's coolant or can i use Prestone Coolant?
 
#39 ·
Yes, use toyota coolant. You can follow the flush procedure in the PDF manuals. But, basically, there is a plastic screw directly under the right side of the radiator.

#1, remove the cap from the overflow reservoir
#2, get a 1 gal catch pan and lay down on the ground near the right of your car. (You won't need jacks for this job)
#3, unscrew the plug, and drain the radiator
#4, put a hose down the top of your reservoir, and add water for a good 5min or until the water comes out clear.
#5, use toyota coolant (yes it's different, and you have to buy it at the toyota dealership)
#6, measure 50/50 or 70/30 coolant + water, which ever you prefer depending on your situtation.
#7, dispose of the left over coolant at an auto store or recycling place.
#8, perform the coolant bleeding test as written in this forum page. (yes, jacking up the front of the car or doing it on a steep hill with the reservoir hanging as high as possible helps a lot!!!!)
 
#40 ·
I'm trying to do this to my 00 Celica...all original...and I can't even get to the radiator drain plug to open it

there's what looks like a frame crossbar under the radiator that blocks me from getting the 10mm allen wrench in to loosen the plug...

...any ideas?
 
#41 ·
KoRn14 said:
I'm trying to do this to my 00 Celica...all original...and I can't even get to the radiator drain plug to open it

there's what looks like a frame crossbar under the radiator that blocks me from getting the 10mm allen wrench in to loosen the plug...

...any ideas?
Hey...anyone with some help on this?????????? Would be greatly appreciated!!
 
#45 ·
I just flushed my coolant this weekend w/the help of this procedure.

Few things I'd like to add regarding this procedure:

Warm your car up before doing any of the above! I made the mistake of draining the coolant before the thermostat popped open, thus all of the dirty coolant in the engine stayed & contaminated the clean coolant I put in. I assumed my thermo opened but it turns out it wasn't warm enough yet (even tho the temp gauge read halfway).

As far as bleeding goes, let the car idle for ~15 minutes WITH THE CAPS CLOSED. When you come back to the car the bottle should be close to empty & when you pop the bleed valve off it should release some vaccuum. Fill the bottle up a little above the "Full" and squish the driver-side radiator hose.

After you do this, proceed to idling the car w/the heater on max. WHen I returned to my car the coolant level didn't go down at all.
 
#46 ·
so then how would you go about doing a flush and fill? step by step please
 
#48 ·
The newcelica forum saves the day once again!!!

Yesterday, in 20 degree weather and sleet, i noticed my car was overheating. Well, first i noticed the heat wasnt working, and i knew... watch that thermostat. Sure enough, it maxed out and started flashing. I had to pull over 4 times on the way home to let it cool. I got home, read this thread, went to toyota, bought the good ****, and did this whole proceedure... i massaged the tubing between the engine and the radiator, and sure enough it was bubbling like a violently destroyed a**hole. once the juices started flowin, the heat started comin and we were good to go baby!

THANK YOU!!! LONG LIVE ONE OF THE GREATEST CARS EVER MADE!!!!
 
#49 ·
I just did this.

I did it like, open bleeder valve, squish hoses until hot coolant would come out without any bubbles. To top up, i closed the bleeder valve, then opened the filler cap - then repeated the process.

My coolant still dropped though after a 50 mile drive...is it normal to have to do this a few times? Also how important is it to have the car jacked up at an angle and have the resevoir hanging over the front bumper?
 
#51 ·
Hi Gents, I am in the middle of this problem also. I have a 2001 GTS.

This was the story before I replaced the thermostat:

After about 1 mile from a cold start, the dial flashes onto overheat, the heater still runs cold. Dial flashed overheat for about 30 seconds and then returns to normal temp. this happens maybe 2 or three time over the next mile and then the problem doesnt come back until the car is switched off and goes cold again.

On motorways/faster speeds there was no problem with overheating, but still no actual heating coming through to the cab.

Present day

I had my thermostat replaced last week and the heating started to work again.

Since then I noticed that although the heating does get hot now, but if I run it for a while on full blast it actually returns to cold, this should not happen on a running engine.

When I lift the hood and listen to the engine tick over (AFTER OVERHEATING), about every ten seconds I hear a feint 'sucking' sound.

The car now only overheats if I travel more than about 20 miles. And now I cant risk taking it on the motorway (I did once and had to get towed)

I have spent quite a bit of money on this problem but since it is not blatantly ovbious what's wrong I find my mechanic fiddling about with things and thinking it is fixed when it is not.

Does this sound simply like air in the system? I really hope it is!

Unfortunately I am thinking of getting rid of the car (due to problems and baby on way) but if I knew that it was fixed I would feel more comfortable about selling privately.
 
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