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DIY: how to fix door lock actuator (with pictures)

195K views 194 replies 79 participants last post by  12manny34 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone. Today was a perfect day for a small project that I have been wanting to do for a while now. You know you own a celica when your door locks don't function :blah: We all know the reason it happens is because of a fairly expensive part - the door lock actuator.

This is a DIY repair procedure for your door lock actuator that i came up with.

I am not responsible or liable for any injury, damage, loss or expense that may result from this repair procedure and you sucking at it.

Time to complete 1-2 hours

Tools and supplies: Phillips head screwdriver, flashlight
T30 torx socket, parts cleaner
10mm socket with extension and a ratchet,
Small pry tool (small flat head screwdriver),
Razor blade, small hammer,
9v battery and test leads
Dielectric grease, white lithium grease and
1000 grit sand paper



Before you start, roll up your windows and disconnect your battery negative cable.

Start with removing your drivers or passenger side door panel, and part of the clear plastic cover that's behind it.



Look inside the door up where the door handle is, you'll see two metal cables with yellow clips on them, pry them off - the top one pries up and out away from the door handle, the bottom one up and towards yourself. Pull those cables out of sockets.



Find two 10mm bolts and remove them.



Remove three torx door lock bolts with your T30 socket.



Allow the lock to drop down, then disconnect the black electrical connector.



Now pull out the lock and actuator assembly with cables. Separate the white plastic cover that's held in place by 2 screws, then separate the plastic door lock actuator that's held in place by 2 screws.



Time to start working on the actuator. The idea here is to pry the actuator open without damaging it. Since it is not a "serviceable part", the actuator housing is molded together at the factory, this is where you will need your razor blade, small hammer and some patience.

Start on the corner by slicing your razor through the seam. (Be very careful not to injure yourself) Position the actuator vertically on a solid surface and tap the blade with the hammer until it gets in pretty deep, keep going around the actuator and get as much of it separated by the razor as you can. For the bottom part (next to the pin housing insert a small pry tool and carefully pry through that portion).









Now that you have it open, its time for a WTF moment, because there isn't much to the actuator at all, and you go scratching your head as to why Toyota wants $300 for it.........

Our goal right now is to remove the motor. I have done 2 actuators already and in both cases the problem was within the motor itself.

To remove the motor, first pry up on the gear and pull it out. (Don't worry it only goes in one way). Now pry the motor up on its plastic portion and pull it out. (The motor is not soldered in, so there is no wires to worry about, you will see once it comes out). Remove the worm gear and its bearing (note the way the bearing sits, it has to go back in the same way).



Now that you have the motor out, time to take it apart. With a sharp pry tool, pry out the metal tabs that hold the plastic backing in place, then VERY CAREFULLY pull the plastic portion out of the metal housing, you don't want to damage the brushes!!!!!! If the brushes are already damaged, or severely worn out, you can buy a replacement motor on EBAY http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...tor+FC+280PC+22125+&_sacat=See-All-Categories



Once you have that apart, you'll see how nasty the brushes look and how much old grease is gummed up in there, use electrical parts cleaner to spray off old grease, use 1000 sand paper to clean up the copper drum on the coil shaft, put small amount of white lithium on the copper parts and reassemble the motor.



Using your test leads and a 9v battery check motor operation. (Do not hold the motor on for longer than a few seconds, these motors are not designed for that.)



Reinstall the motor and gears in reverse order, apply superglue to the cover and join the cover and the housing together. Hold together until glued parts bond.





Reassemble everything in reverse order.

THAT'S IT, YOU ARE DONE!​




As I said before I have fixed two door lock actuators this way, in both cases I did not need a replacement motor, just needed to clean the old ones. IF it so happens that after you have re-installed everything and the locks are slow, get worse or still don't respond, replace the motor with http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...tor+FC+280PC+22125+&_sacat=See-All-Categories
Hopefully this will save you some money. Thanks for reading! :wiggle:

If you would like more information on the technical specs for the electrical motor, or possibly upgrading it, here is a link to OEM manufacturer for these motors http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/catalog/e_catalog.cgi?CAT_ID=fc_280pcsc

Good luck and don't lock yourself out!
 
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#33 ·
Awesome thread. I ran into a couple snags but I managed. Sun disappeared before I could do the passenger door but it should take me 30 minutes as opposed to the fours hours I took for the drivers door. I did what the above user suggested and replaced the end caps, for the life of me I could not get the metal bearing tip off.
 
#36 ·
Actuator

That is a great post you did on the actuator. I have a question if you don't mind. Would I need the collars if I replace the motors? On ebay I see 2 different motors FC280 pc22125 and a FC280 pc20150 which do I need to order ? What kind of glue are you guys using to hold the actuator together. Thanks
 
#39 ·
I agree, thank you so much, saved me a ton of $ and time. The only problem is driver side motor if i use it to much to fast it dies, give it a minute and it works fine again. Any one figure how to get the piece off the motor shaft without breaking it? would like to replace the whole motor.
 
#43 ·
I posted it above...Brake the plastic cap off the motor on the opposite end of the axle shaft. With Vice grips clamp the end and then with some pliers twist and pull the piece off. It takes a little twisting and pulling but it will come off. Then tap it on the new shaft. :gap:
 
#40 ·
Thanks so much for this thread. My blocks were completely gone on my old motor so I ordered two from ebay.

For those that have had trouble with getting off the grey metal collar. What I did was use a vise grip plier on the end with the cap off and slowly wiggled the collar off with another pair of pliers. Tap slowly with the hammer. Hope it helps.
 
#41 ·
Took mine apart today and you can't see how bad it is yet.



After further dis assembly



This motor is burnt up. the brushes are non existent anymore and it has to be replaced.
I followed the ebay link TRD01GT provided and purchased a new motor to replace this one.
 
#42 ·
I didnt want to rebuild the little motor, its a waste of time. A bought new motor from Ebay ( $4.99 shipped, part number on above post) but was a bit worried on how the axle turned the worm gear. When I removed the motor I noticed there was a semirectagular piece that is pressed and slides into the wormgear. It was a bit hard to remove. I vicegriped the other end of the axle, and with some pliers twisted it off while pulling. DONT BRAKE IT! lol I had no problem taking it out. Tapped it on the new motor and put the motor in. I gel glued the cover solid and reinstalled the actuator and lock assembly. It took me 1 hr. Thanks for the pics and info guys! Vuola!!! it worked!
 
#45 ·
Hee guys

I tried this
Replaced the motors en put everything back together
But now my doors do not open
The passenger side doesn't work at all
And the drivers side wil only open from the indside
So I have to get in through the boot
Does anybody know how to open the passenger door?
Please help me out
 
#46 ·
Sounds like you put the cables on the door backward, the ones that connect to the lock switch and open lever on the inside. The white fitting goes on the open lever and the black fitting must be on the lock switch and attached with the lock switch in the unlocked position.

Just go through the uninstall process again in your head and try to remember what you forgot.
 
#48 ·
Hee guys
Seems like i put the white motor housing in backwards.
But the dealer had to fix it
Because the door couldn't open anymore
It cost me €160 ($220)
But since the motors were good I still ended up saving money
So thanks everyone!
 
#50 ·
Just want to contribute to the post since I have benefited and fixed my door. Thank you to the ones who took time for the good walk throughs, pictures and tips.
FYI, I'm a senior technician in manufacturing so I have years of experience in repairs and DIY stuff. Please read if you are planing this door fix and don't have lots of experience.

First of all. You have to take your time and do it slow with the right tools. Now, I can do it with my eyes closed since I had to take it apart 4 times but if I took my time, planned it, it would have been done faster.
I found instead of unclipping the actuator hangers, it is easier and safer to take the door bolts out and slide it out of the hole. Trying to unclip might break it. If so, just opened up new problems and $$.
Make sure you unclip the cables from the door panel instead of just letting the door panel hang.
Have to put the right 2 bolts on the speaker side of the door panel for the plastic cover to snap in.
Prepare to get your hands greasy, I had no idea inside of the sealed door was so dirty and greasy.
Test the motor before and AFTER you assembled back before screwing in all the holes. I tested the motor working but didn't line up the plastic arms right. It prevented the door from locking. Had to disassemble everything and troubleshoot.
Many poster say easy side job, takes about 30 mins. Well, If I have to do it again, maybe 30min ~ hour since I have experience. Do not take it likely and do it on a day when you have plenty of time if it's your first try. and don't panic when you open the door panel off and have to stick you head in to figure out how am I going to work though this small area.
Pull off the motor sleve carefully not to ding it because it will need to slide in the worm screw assembly.
Good luck
 
#52 ·
Hi Guys,
Ive just followed this thread and come across an issue. I went and replaced my locks with the motor model mentioned in this thread. everything was looking good as I re-assembled, I ACTUALLY HAD MOVEMENT OUT OF MY LOCK for the first time in maybe a year!!!! So I thought everything was good put the panel and mirror controls back on buttoned it all up.. Aaaaand thennnnn... I came to realize that the lock i replaced was doing the opposite of my trunk (Only functioning lock in the car). So what I knew to be lock was now unlock and vice versa... AAAHHHHHHHHH! SH*T F*$CK B&LL$!!!

Anybody I have any ideas??

Things Ive done to troubleshoot are:

-Taken panel off and made sure lock cable went to lock
-made sure cables werent wound up or kinked

(Reassembled, no change)

-took panel off again, took whole assembly out again made sure actuator and lock assembly were in the unlock position, inside lock was in unlock, and pressed the unlock button a couple times for good measure.

(Still nothin)

:idiot:

Any help would be appreciated..

-Derrick

:stupid:
 
#54 ·
Reverse the wires on the motor?
 
#55 ·
Yaa I thought about reversing the wires. Turns out Im going to wuss out and go onto toyotapartszone.com and buy the whole actuator assembly. in case anyone want to throw in the towel as well the toyota part numbers I got from the dealer are:

Driver side:
69040-20550

Passenger side:
69030-20500

You can enter those into the parts search and order directly for $192.89+tax and shipping, which comes out roughly to $220. I dont feel too bad about it because Im gonna fix it myself for $440, instead of the $1000 the dealer wanted for both doors. I really wished this writeup worked for me, but oh well I gave it a shot.

Thanks for the post guys!
 
#58 ·
When I bought my car new the door locks snapped both ways, very snappy moves.

Now, years later, it's almost like the locks are lazy opening. When I hit the button, they do lock/unlock, but the "snap" is gone. Is this a sign that the actuators are going bad? Might need to replace them using this guide.
 
#59 ·
One thing i was thinking is that maybe I got 2 actuator motors for the passenger side door...? Are they different motors? Might try the second motor I got on the passenger door to see if I can save the 200 i was gonna spend..

@FFXIhealer: Thats the beginning of your actuator going bad. Sometimes it goes slow, sometimes makes a clicking noise but the locks dont actually turn, next they turn over about half the time until nothing. Then youll be in my scenario where nothing but the dammm trunk lock functions..
 
#60 ·
*UPDATE* a few days after i did this, which i simply cleaned my old motor, it stopped working again. I then decided to go ahead and order new motors from ebay. I did the whole guide all over again but this time it took me less than an hour to do it. My lock is fully functional again and it does have that brand new "snap" when i hit the power lock button! Thanks again for the good info!
 
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