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Old 08-19-2007, 02:51 AM   #1
kortik
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N/A FAQ is it somewhere on this thread

I see that boosted2.0 put together a nice FAQ for Turbo
is there something like that for N/A fanatics?
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Old 08-19-2007, 09:44 AM   #2
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where is the FAQ for turbo? i can make one
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Old 08-19-2007, 09:48 AM   #3
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nvm i just saw it in the turbo section, damn he went into a lot of detail.
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Old 08-19-2007, 10:14 AM   #4
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lol, kortik, the faq IS this perfromance mods section...everyweek we get the same questions about intakes, exhausts, pfc...blah blah blah and now the flavour of the month is manifolds (headers)...soon enough we'll be back to the UR pulley versus AEM and then the Injen v AEM intake debate will be brought back from the death around xmas time
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:07 AM   #5
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yes I know that but
it would be nice to see the list of N/A parts available etc...
what to do and what not to do etc...
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Old 08-20-2007, 11:09 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kortik
yes I know that but
it would be nice to see the list of N/A parts available etc...
what to do and what not to do etc...
lol, c'mon buddy, i'm SURE you actually know the answer to that in your head...

Shall we make a list? If need be I'm sure everyone could all post their 'opinions' on butt dyno of many different products, but going by what's dyno proven and generally used...I'm sure a top N/A list would look something like this :

Start off with...
Injen CAI
PPE header
Kazuma (or mandrel 2.5" ID system)
No cat
Fidanza 'wheel
UR pullies..at your peril, lol (maybe even substitute the AEM alt pulley for the UR one)
69mm TB and port matched to IM


Getting serious...
Power FC
Piper cams (stage II or III depending on how much you want to invest in the really serious stage! lol)
Head work


Serious stage...
Forged high comp pistons
MWR valvetrain (if you want to maximise stage III cams with 9k rev limit)
MWR bearings (if you want to still have a working car and a 9k rev limit)
Custom IM and scary TB (boosted2.0 working on this one )
Knife edged crank (for the really brave ones)


There's obviously more other things to do blah blah blah, but that is the gyst of it (spelt right ) which would net you... nobody actually knows for sure, but should see you up to around 210whp at the least, if not, then prepare to cry because that will all set you back around...$5k in parts alone, not to mention the other costs for fitting various bits properly (i.e. clearances checked on valves, bearings etc) and then tuning...

...here's a tip, wait for Youngxlos to get his motor up and running and we'll all have a very clear idea of how far a 2zz powered celica can be pushed, N/A
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Old 08-20-2007, 01:25 PM   #7
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Start off with...
Injen CAI
PPE header
Kazuma (or mandrel 2.5" ID system)
No cat
Fidanza 'wheel
UR pullies..at your peril, lol (maybe even substitute the AEM alt pulley for the UR one)
69mm TB and port matched to IM
Lots and Lots of weight reduction
lightweight wheels & drag radials


Getting serious...
Power FC
Piper cams (stage II - Stage III requires valves and springs)
Ceramic coating on header
Littlerocket Underdrive lightweight pullies
CF hood & rear hatch
race battery
Fully adjustable suspension


Serious stage...
Head work
race bearings with dry film coating
Piper Cams - stage 3
Forged high comp pistons 12.0:1 - 13.0:1
Light aftermarket rods
MWR valvetrain (if you want to maximise stage III cams with 9k rev limit)
MWR bearings (if you want to still have a working car and a 9k rev limit)
Custom IM and scary TB (boosted2.0 working on this one )
Knife edged crank (for the really brave ones)
Dry film coating on pistons sides & bearings
Ceramic coating on piston top, head underside and valve underside
ceramic on header
oil shedding coating on rods and crankshaft
J&S safeguard
larger fuel pump & injectors
Circuitworx oil pump upgrade
Possible stroker kit
LSD


Track only
HIGH compression forged pistons 15.0:1
UR Crank pulley
Race gas only + race gas tune
Custom 3" CAI with 6" bell on inlet - no filter
Custom large tube header with burns collectors with header dumping to atmosphere
lightened, knife edged polished and ballanced crank
Boosted2.0 / Littlerocket Mac Daddy Race intake manifold (under development)
Lexan windows
electric water pump
alternator delete (drag only)
P/S delete (drag only)
dry sump
crank scraper
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Last edited by Boosted2.0 : 08-23-2007 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:58 PM   #8
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boosted were can i find more info on this
Littlerocket Underfrive lightweight pullies
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Old 08-20-2007, 03:16 PM   #9
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Eeek, me and Boosted forgot to mention a nice shiney Circuitworx oil pump gear for those late night whoring sessions on the road/track.
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Old 08-20-2007, 07:58 PM   #10
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awesome thanks everybody for you time and contribution
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Old 08-20-2007, 11:03 PM   #11
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i haven't seen a stroker kit on the list for the 2zz, was that just left out or does the stroker kit actually benefit the engine?
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Old 08-21-2007, 12:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Celicasaur
Eeek, me and Boosted forgot to mention a nice shiney Circuitworx oil pump gear for those late night whoring sessions on the road/track.
Good call

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hnda Klr
i haven't seen a stroker kit on the list for the 2zz, was that just left out or does the stroker kit actually benefit the engine?
Jurys still out on the stroker for max NA power, but yeah, it should be included I suppose.
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Old 08-21-2007, 12:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngxlos
boosted were can i find more info on this
Littlerocket Underdrive lightweight pullies
We will publish info after the Lotus build is complete. He has the first couple of sets already in his posession
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Old 08-21-2007, 12:43 AM   #14
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sweet. Boosted

I'd like to order ported head to fit Mahles 12, lighter rods, piper stg3.
92 gas w/methanol injections, Aquamist/snowperformance whatever its better for the car. So I can run Mahles.
you think its possible?
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Old 08-21-2007, 12:49 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kortik
sweet. Boosted

I'd like to order ported head to fit Mahles 12, lighter rods, piper stg3.
92 gas w/methanol injections, Aquamist/snowperformance whatever its better for the car. So I can run Mahles.
you think its possible?
Yup - definitely possible. Not sure how much of a power benefit from the WI + high compression there will be on a NA application.
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Old 08-21-2007, 12:50 AM   #16
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will it increase the Octane level a bit.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:57 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kortik
will it increase the Octane level a bit.
Sort of. It will increase effective octane a tad, but not in the same way as actually running higher octane fuel. You will be able to run comparable timing and whatnot, but will make a tad less power
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:22 AM   #18
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less power even w/hight comp. pistons?
I thought pure methanol is 108octane
50/50 mixture and 92 pump gas will bring my octane to what 98?
which kit is better Aquamist, snowperformance or alkycontrol?

I am kind of into this. I'd like to build my bottom end and header for my n/a matrix.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:29 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kortik
less power even w/hight comp. pistons?
I thought pure methanol is 108octane
50/50 mixture and 92 pump gas will bring my octane to what 98?
which kit is better Aquamist, snowperformance or alkycontrol?

I am kind of into this. I'd like to build my bottom end and header for my n/a matrix.
it will make less power than the same motor on race gas, not less power than a stock motor.

If you want to run Alcohol as a fuel why not just upgrade your pump and injectors and switch to E85?
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:13 AM   #20
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I could but its not that easily availbale here in WA to get.
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:22 AM   #21
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good info. guys
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:54 AM   #22
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if I ever got water/methanol injection what kit is good?
Aquamist, snowperformance or alkycontrol?
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Old 08-23-2007, 03:03 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
Littlerocket Underdrive lightweight pullies
UP Crank pulley
dry sump
crank scraper
I had a few questions about these items...

Littlerocket pulleys -- I see that they are being tested -- do you have any more detailed info?

"UP" Pulley? Is this a typo for UR or something else? I take it this is still undampened, tho', no?

Dry sump system -- I looked into this once, and it seemed you couldn't set something like this up for less than several grand... do you have more info on this for a 2ZZ, or this totally custom and very pricey?

What the heck is a "crank scraper"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kortik
if I ever got water/methanol injection what kit is good?
Aquamist, snowperformance or alkycontrol?
Aquamist is the most comprehensive (and most expensive). The one I have is very good and very tunable -- Coolingmist. Snow has a nice one that's very tunable as well. Never heard of "Alkycontrol".
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Old 08-23-2007, 04:35 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlitman
What the heck is a "crank scraper"?
I wondered that as well...same thing as a Knife Edged Crank? Little bits of the crank are chopped off to lighten the thing and still remain balanced
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:11 AM   #25
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Pulleys are light and have some trick things done to underdrive certain components not normally addressed.

Dry sumps are very expensive and custom but it can be done

UP was a typo I meant UR

Crank scrapers - http://www.crank-scrapers.com/prod01_B.html

I will add knife edging and lightening crank to the list
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Old 08-23-2007, 11:48 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
Jurys still out on the stroker for max NA power, but yeah, it should be included I suppose.
Is that because of revvability issues with bigger rod angle?
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Old 08-23-2007, 03:34 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBoek
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
Jurys still out on the stroker for max NA power, but yeah, it should be included I suppose.
Is that because of revvability issues with bigger rod angle?
yup. The little ol 1.6 Liter 4A-GE made 250 HP NA, but it did it at like 10,500 RPM. As long as VE is high enough revs = HP. Same is true of the 2ZZ
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Old 08-23-2007, 03:50 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
yup. The little ol 1.6 Liter 4A-GE made 250 HP NA, but it did it at like 10,500 RPM. As long as VE is high enough revs = HP. Same is true of the 2ZZ
I would love it if lilrocket came on here and gave a fully detailed summary of his 10,000 rpm exploits on his 2zz Spyder. Do you know the exact specs of it Boosted? He frequently says he beats the snot of his built engine at those RPMs.
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Old 08-23-2007, 11:39 PM   #29
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He has only gone that high a few times. Hes revving into the 9000 range regularly on a built head and upgraded oil pump.
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:30 AM   #30
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thats know crap the stock oil pump is junk
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Old 08-24-2007, 08:01 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
He has only gone that high a few times. Hes revving into the 9000 range regularly on a built head and upgraded oil pump.
Oh ok cool. I know WAR broke a bearing when he revved his beast to 9,100 rpms. I guess 9,000 rpm is the limit with head work and an oil pump upgrade.
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Old 08-24-2007, 08:12 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTsRasta
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
He has only gone that high a few times. Hes revving into the 9000 range regularly on a built head and upgraded oil pump.
Oh ok cool. I know WAR broke a bearing when he revved his beast to 9,100 rpms. I guess 9,000 rpm is the limit with head work and an oil pump upgrade.
Take this how you want to, but I have serious doubts as to WAR's ability to build a motor properly. Hes had a few too many failures which are always "someone elses" fault.

You can rev way past 9000
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Old 08-24-2007, 08:26 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
Take this how you want to, but I have serious doubts as to WAR's ability to build a motor properly. Hes had a few too many failures which are always "someone elses" fault.

You can rev way past 9000
I'll just be safe and consider whoever tunes/builds my car in the future with the same skill level as WAR, rather than thinking I'm getting the car done by you, which will most likely be 2000TRDSC's tuner/mechanic. A 9,000 rpm sounds high and safe enough for me, and would allow me to keep the stock tach faceplate, without having to resort to Dooly's 10,000+ rpm TRD faceplate.
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Old 08-24-2007, 06:50 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTsRasta
...without having to resort to Dooly's 10,000+ rpm TRD faceplate.
But deep down we all wish we could make functional use out of it :p
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:38 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTsRasta
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
Take this how you want to, but I have serious doubts as to WAR's ability to build a motor properly. Hes had a few too many failures which are always "someone elses" fault.

You can rev way past 9000
I'll just be safe and consider whoever tunes/builds my car in the future with the same skill level as WAR, rather than thinking I'm getting the car done by you, which will most likely be 2000TRDSC's tuner/mechanic. A 9,000 rpm sounds high and safe enough for me, and would allow me to keep the stock tach faceplate, without having to resort to Dooly's 10,000+ rpm TRD faceplate.
I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to say there, but caution is a good thing, both in choosing a mechanic as well as in setting the limits for your car. 9K is probably a good upper limit for most folks. I would still do valves, valve springs, and the oil pump though.
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Old 08-27-2007, 05:46 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to say there, but caution is a good thing, both in choosing a mechanic as well as in setting the limits for your car. 9K is probably a good upper limit for most folks. I would still do valves, valve springs, and the oil pump though.
Of course valves + valve springs + oil pump would be needed, I wouldn't go past 8,500 rpm without that.

And based on everybody's lack of experience with a 2zz, I'll just assume everybody is second best compared to you and LR, even though 2000TRDSC's mechanic/tuner had a GTS, installed 2000TRDSC's valves and springs, along with his ragnorak cams while PFC tuning it to 9,500 rpm's.
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Old 11-06-2007, 01:05 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0
Start off with...
Injen CAI
PPE header
Kazuma (or mandrel 2.5" ID system)
No cat
Fidanza 'wheel
UR pullies..at your peril, lol (maybe even substitute the AEM alt pulley for the UR one)
69mm TB and port matched to IM
Lots and Lots of weight reduction
lightweight wheels & drag radials


Getting serious...
Power FC
Piper cams (stage II - Stage III requires valves and springs)
Ceramic coating on header
Littlerocket Underdrive lightweight pullies
CF hood & rear hatch
race battery
Fully adjustable suspension


Serious stage...
Head work
race bearings with dry film coating
Piper Cams - stage 3
Forged high comp pistons 12.0:1 - 13.0:1
Light aftermarket rods
MWR valvetrain (if you want to maximise stage III cams with 9k rev limit)
MWR bearings (if you want to still have a working car and a 9k rev limit)
Custom IM and scary TB (boosted2.0 working on this one )
Knife edged crank (for the really brave ones)
Dry film coating on pistons sides & bearings
Ceramic coating on piston top, head underside and valve underside
ceramic on header
oil shedding coating on rods and crankshaft
J&S safeguard
larger fuel pump & injectors
Circuitworx oil pump upgrade
Possible stroker kit
LSD


Track only
HIGH compression forged pistons 15.0:1
UR Crank pulley
Race gas only + race gas tune
Custom 3" CAI with 6" bell on inlet - no filter
Custom large tube header with burns collectors with header dumping to atmosphere
lightened, knife edged polished and ballanced crank
Boosted2.0 / Littlerocket Mac Daddy Race intake manifold (under development)
Lexan windows
electric water pump
alternator delete (drag only)
P/S delete (drag only)
dry sump
crank scraper

OK its been 4month since anything new to add to the N/A fanatics
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Old 11-06-2007, 06:11 PM   #38
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I would add that stage II cams also require valves and valves springs for 2000 to 2002 model at least. There was an upgrade in valves after that....but the're still the weak link on the head for sustained higher rev limit.
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Old 12-28-2007, 05:28 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by many
I would add that stage II cams also require valves and valves springs for 2000 to 2002 model at least. There was an upgrade in valves after that....but the're still the weak link on the head for sustained higher rev limit.
Required if you don't plan on revving past 8.5K?
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Old 12-28-2007, 06:19 PM   #40
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The thing is... the stage 2 cams have more lift and a bit more duration ...and way more on the big lobe.
It wouldn't be a problem if you only stay on the small cam....but who in their right mind wants no lift on a GT-S?!
If you have the head out...might as well do it and be safe!
We had barely broken-in the engine on a stage 3 and the valves mushroomed(1000km). We had only replaced the springs.
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Old 12-28-2007, 06:39 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by many
The thing is... the stage 2 cams have more lift and a bit more duration ...and way more on the big lobe.
It wouldn't be a problem if you only stay on the small cam....but who in their right mind wants no lift on a GT-S?!
If you have the head out...might as well do it and be safe!
We had barely broken-in the engine on a stage 3 and the valves mushroomed(1000km). We had only replaced the springs.
Crap. Then I may save this for a late time -- I wasn't planning on replacing valves and springs too
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Old 01-26-2008, 03:43 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by many
The thing is... the stage 2 cams have more lift and a bit more duration ...and way more on the big lobe.
It wouldn't be a problem if you only stay on the small cam....but who in their right mind wants no lift on a GT-S?!
If you have the head out...might as well do it and be safe!
We had barely broken-in the engine on a stage 3 and the valves mushroomed(1000km). We had only replaced the springs.
Stage 2 (Ultimate Road)
Big Lobe Lift: I - .485 / E - .445
Small Lobe Lift: I - .382 / E - .380
Big Lobe Duration: I - 288 / E - 284
Small Lobe Duration: I - 276 / E - 276

Stage 3 (Race)
Big Lobe Lift: I - .500 / E - .460
Small Lobe Lift: I - .382 / E - .380
Big Lobe Duration: I - 304 / E - 296
Small Lobe Duration: I - 276 E - 276
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Old 01-26-2008, 08:40 PM   #43
many
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kortik
Quote:
Originally Posted by many
The thing is... the stage 2 cams have more lift and a bit more duration ...and way more on the big lobe.
It wouldn't be a problem if you only stay on the small cam....but who in their right mind wants no lift on a GT-S?!
If you have the head out...might as well do it and be safe!
We had barely broken-in the engine on a stage 3 and the valves mushroomed(1000km). We had only replaced the springs.
Stage 2 (Ultimate Road)
Big Lobe Lift: I - .485 / E - .445
Small Lobe Lift: I - .382 / E - .380
Big Lobe Duration: I - 288 / E - 284
Small Lobe Duration: I - 276 / E - 276

Stage 3 (Race)
Big Lobe Lift: I - .500 / E - .460
Small Lobe Lift: I - .382 / E - .380
Big Lobe Duration: I - 304 / E - 296
Small Lobe Duration: I - 276 E - 276
I wasn't comparing stage 2 vs stage 3 but rather stock cams vs stage 2!
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:14 PM   #44
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ok gotcha
is there stock cams specs somewhere?

also how much do I need to save for this done below?



Littlerocket Underdrive lightweight pullies
CF hood & rear hatch
race battery
Fully adjustable suspension


Serious stage...
Head work
race bearings with dry film coating
Piper Cams - stage 3
Forged high comp pistons 12.0:1 - 13.0:1
Light aftermarket rods
MWR valvetrain (if you want to maximise stage III cams with 9k rev limit)
MWR bearings (if you want to still have a working car and a 9k rev limit)
Custom IM and scary TB (boosted2.0 working on this one )
Knife edged crank (for the really brave ones)
Dry film coating on pistons sides & bearings
Ceramic coating on piston top, head underside and valve underside
ceramic on header
oil shedding coating on rods and crankshaft
J&S safeguard
larger fuel pump & injectors
Circuitworx oil pump upgrade
Possible stroker kit
__________________
05 Matrix XRS Indigo Ink Pearl
Progress RSB, TRD STB, Custom Borla 2.5" Exhaust, PPE header, Tein SS, TWM SS, Injen CAI,
JDM helical LSD from spyder, RPS Max/Street, C-One Type R Flywheel, ES Motor Mounts, 18" Volks GT-S, HYDRA EMS

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