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Old 08-05-2009, 07:38 AM   #51
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The only other way is to open it with vice grips and unlock the pin .. but I DONT RECOMMEND THAT.

I'd just check that your tape does not leak air. Being 2 people also helps (one shooting air and one turning the sprocket). It sometimes takes a few trials. Good luck!
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:26 AM   #52
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For those who want to see the VVT-i in the flesh...er metal:


Front plate removed. The VVT-i is in the locked position (maximum retardation).


Spring in lock pin.


Lock pin in lock orifice in the sprocket plate.


Sprocket plate.
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Old 08-05-2009, 02:45 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by PRRedCelicaGT View Post
Ive been trying for 3 days now to unlock the sprocket with no luck. Can anyone give me another pointers? Ive followed this step by step but the sprocket wont move...I also perform the same steps with the old sprocket with no luck...is there an easier way or another stuff I can try?
Needs to be air tight. I found it easier move the sprocket with a shifter/spanner on the camshaft's hexagon section. Had to rock it a few times to get it going initally and was quite tight at first. Not sure if it happens for everyone, but I heard a distinctive 'pop' when the pin releases.
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:34 PM   #54
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My first experience with unlocking the VVT sprocket was unsuccessful like yours. What made the difference was going to a different air gun. I found the closest thing I could find to Many's gun in his pictures and that did it. I found a Kobalt with the smallest tip of all I had seen. Also, I was really surprised how it felt to unlock the sprocket(i.e. how it felt unlocking and then turning), so make sure that you're not missing something.
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Old 08-06-2009, 04:45 AM   #55
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i talked to toyota and mecanics told me that The VVT locks

but it does not need to be unlocked becouse automatic when you start the engine the oil pressure unlocks it does not matter , if for some reason it stays locked not normal the system is malfuctioning , they told me that there is no unlocking or locking procedure locks and unlocks by oil pressure
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:17 AM   #56
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Those mechanics you talked to don't know what they are talking about. Tell them to look it up in the Toyota repair manual. There is a passage that clearly states that the gear needs to be installed on the cam in the unlocked position and then turned to lock. It's a safety procedure Toyota put in place, the reason for that is that it can potentially seize locked when torqued down because of pressure of the vane assembly on the lockpin.
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:40 AM   #57
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this may be a newb question. but what does this procedure do?

it emptys the oil from the sproket? what are the benefits.
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Old 08-06-2009, 06:18 AM   #58
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another day with no luck.....the only place where air escapes is through the bolt....is this correct?? or should I also need to seal it with something?.
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:36 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by kaminaricelica7 View Post
this may be a newb question. but what does this procedure do?

it emptys the oil from the sproket? what are the benefits.
The procedure allows you to remove the VVT sprocket and reinstall it without damaging/seizing the mechanism.
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:50 AM   #60
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finally did it!....now i can sleep....
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Old 08-08-2009, 10:02 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by GSBoek View Post
For those who want to see the VVT-i in the flesh...er metal:


Front plate removed. The VVT-i is in the locked position (maximum retardation).


Spring in lock pin.


Lock pin in lock orifice in the sprocket plate.


Sprocket plate.
Excellent...Should I past them on the first post?

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finally did it!....now i can sleep....
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Old 08-08-2009, 10:25 AM   #62
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These pictures are FANTASTIC! Now it makes more sense what you were talking about Many. This is the heart of our system and it's awesome to see what's going on.
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:03 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSPORTPOWER View Post
i talked to toyota and mecanics told me that The VVT locks

but it does not need to be unlocked becouse automatic when you start the engine the oil pressure unlocks it does not matter , if for some reason it stays locked not normal the system is malfuctioning , they told me that there is no unlocking or locking procedure locks and unlocks by oil pressure
I hope for you that those dudes are not the same that work on your car, cause they don't know $hit.

It's funny how sometimes you learn the mechanics at the dealer something that you actually found ... in TOYOTA repair manual.
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Old 09-22-2009, 11:57 AM   #64
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Eariler today, tried masking / taping up the holes, then firing pressurised air into the cam hole and no movement........... then I thought this top bolt on the top of the sprocket, sod it will undo and guess what the sproket comes off from the cam, see pic below. The cam location spigot was at the top left postion not in either of the other opposing horizontal postions, so is it just a matter of putting the new cam location spigot in the same postion and not fathing around with this locking procedure, and just tighten the bolt then reinsert back into the engine???...

There is no way by firing air into the cam will the sprocket be taken off unless you undo and take off that top nut to swap from the old to new cams.
I'm just a little unclear about this can somone please clear this up for me.

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Old 09-22-2009, 12:05 PM   #65
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short and sweet, i didnt even have to use tape.

put vvti intake gear on cam, tighten the bolt by hand.
that hole on the camshaft right before the gear as ^^^ is where you put air in.
I used my hands (fingers) to cover the holes and had someone put the air in the hole
as the air is being pressurized alot of oil will spray out and you should be able to rotate the gear back and forward like an inch or so. Move it all the (if you have camshaft against you and gear away from you) to the left.
Once you know it moved all the way torque it down.

and your done
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:11 PM   #66
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But why do you have to use the air???, mine came out of the 11 O-clock hole posion, and the new cam went back int he same position on the sprocket so the paint marks would align up again, both times the VVTI sprocket was solid , no play. IF I fire the air in again and make a air tight seal and it turns to the left then the "paint" markings will be out from previous setting <shrug>
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:16 PM   #67
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no no no, im not sure but i think you have to forget the paint marks since you removed the cam gear bc yeah when you force air into the oil channels to unlock the gear it will move a bit its with the air pressure the vvti gear "moves" to retard or advance timing. You just turn it to unlock it, then tighten the bolt, then you turn it back so the marks dont move. you move it left let say to unlock it then onced its nice and tight on there you turn it back
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:24 PM   #68
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The air is simply to unlock the sprocket so that the VVT-i mechanism moves freely. See my post with the pictures. The air is to push the lockpin back up out of the lock hole in the sprocket plate so that the cam gear (and internal vvt-i vanes) can rotate independent of the toothed sprocket.
Removing the whole assembly from the cam is not the issue, for that you just remove the center bolt. The issue is that when installing the cam gear back on the cam, if you torque it down with the lockpin engaged in the hole (hence called locked position), there is a slight chance that the whole mechanism will seize against the lockpin and sprocket plate, preventing the lockpin from being pushed by oil pressure and unlocked so that the VVT-i can operate normally.
It's mostly a safety precaution, some people have removed and reinstalled their camgears locked and it still worked ok, while others have done the same and had the thing stay locked.

The correct procedure is to install the camgear on the cam in the unlocked position (vanes being able to move a little both ways), torque the center bolt to spec on the cam and after that turn the camgear clockwise to lock the pin inside the sprocket plate and then install the cams in the engine. The paint marks don't matter cuz the assembly has to be locked anyways after being torqued on the cam.
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:04 PM   #69
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helP!!!
so i just unlocked the sprocket and now i have to torque the bolt to 40 ft-lbs, but ill be turning the bolt the same way the sprocket turns to lock!
so any suggestions on what to use to hold the sprocket while i torque the bolt???
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:49 PM   #70
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it didnt move when i did it with a torque wrench, it stays still but if its moving just use a rag or something or sit and put it in your lap lol
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:03 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMSRacerCeli03 View Post
it didnt move when i did it with a torque wrench, it stays still but if its moving just use a rag or something or sit and put it in your lap lol
thanks ill give it a try
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Old 12-24-2009, 06:07 AM   #72
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just hold it with your hand just to assure it wont move while another person use the torque wrench, but it wont move...
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Old 12-24-2009, 01:29 PM   #73
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thanks ill give it a try
When you're done just check it locks and unlocks still. I had the same problem where it would rotate also. Had to attempt to torque it down many times because it would bind; eventually got it though.
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Old 12-25-2009, 01:33 PM   #74
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yeah i totally failed doing this, i have to try again Saturday when i have access to my friends air compressor.
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Old 12-25-2009, 08:54 PM   #75
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100psi you cant lose
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Perform:2L stroker 13:1comp, knife-edge crank, MWR pulleys, cuircut worx gears, crower light rods, PPE 3.5 intake, DD IM, 440 lotus inj, 190 fuel pump, SUN groundwires, LM race P&P head, piper stg 3 cams, Upgraded valves/springs, TRD SS, PPE header+midpipe, 170F TS, SB cryo TZ clutch, Fidanza flywheel, PFC, ES motor mounts, Tein Coilovers

Hoping 260whp!!![/SIZE]
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:39 AM   #76
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ok i think i got it right.
1.removed old sprocket from old cam.
2.install the sprocket on new cam.
3.use the bolt and hand tight.
4.tape up holes and blow air in it till it unlocks.
5.make sure its unlock, move left to right easy.
6.torque bolt to 40 ft-lbs.
7.lock the cam again.
did i do this wrong or right?
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:44 PM   #77
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thats right the way you did it
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Perform:2L stroker 13:1comp, knife-edge crank, MWR pulleys, cuircut worx gears, crower light rods, PPE 3.5 intake, DD IM, 440 lotus inj, 190 fuel pump, SUN groundwires, LM race P&P head, piper stg 3 cams, Upgraded valves/springs, TRD SS, PPE header+midpipe, 170F TS, SB cryo TZ clutch, Fidanza flywheel, PFC, ES motor mounts, Tein Coilovers

Hoping 260whp!!![/SIZE]
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:30 AM   #78
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sorry to bring this up again guys, so once the cam is unlocked and you can turn it torque the bolt then are you supposed to turn it till the pulley locks again or just so far round so it can still turn by hand ? also is this looking down the cam at the pulley or looking at the pulley ? any help would be great then i can finally finish my build and sleep at night
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:07 AM   #79
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Yes after you torqued the bolt down again, you have to turn it clock wise all the way to lock it in place. If you want to check it again after torquing it down, just put air pressure in and you should be able to turn it counter clockwise by hand. Then keep it locked before installing in motor.
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:42 AM   #80
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ok thanks man
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Old 07-26-2013, 10:26 AM   #81
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Thank you for this. Apparently this is to remove the chance of the tightening of the bolt causing the locking pin to be pinched and not move at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by youngxlos View Post
ok i think i got it right.
1.removed old sprocket from old cam.
2.install the sprocket on new cam.
3.use the bolt and hand tight.
4.tape up holes and blow air in it till it unlocks.
5.make sure its unlock, move left to right easily (do not relock).
6.torque bolt to 40 ft-lbs.
7.lock the cam again clockwise and install into head.
did i do this wrong or right?
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Old 07-27-2013, 12:55 PM   #82
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Pretty much ^^^ if you don't do it the correct way, you'll have no VTEC at 6200rpm
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:53 PM   #83
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Re: VVT sprocket unlocking procedure with pics.

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Pretty much ^^^ if you don't do it the correct way, you'll have no VTEC at 6200rpm
Go Honda huh!?

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Old 01-06-2014, 04:19 AM   #84
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Just to be sure, when you only change the cam's and leave the vvti-gear on the vvti assembly, you dont have to do this... Right??

What i did was i removed the hole vvti assambly (vvti + gear) from the old cams and reinstalled it on the new camshafts without unlocking or anything.

The engine is not in the car yet so if i do have do this procedure, its better now then when its in the car
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:48 AM   #85
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Gewoon doen. Beter nu dan later.

It's to completely avoid any chance of the mechanism binding and staying permanently in the locked position.
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Old 01-08-2014, 01:35 AM   #86
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Ok i will, do you know if i have to remove the timing cover again to remove the cams?
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:35 AM   #87
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you don't have to remove the timing cover to remove the cams.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:40 AM   #88
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Thanks!! In that case i know enough
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:56 AM   #89
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After you unlocked it and torqued the bolt to 40 ft-lbs should the sprocket still turn smoothly to lock it?? My sprocket went a lot stiffer after this procedure.
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Old 01-10-2014, 02:36 PM   #90
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Anybody got a anser to this question?
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Old 01-10-2014, 03:20 PM   #91
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To anybody performing this procedure:
Spray some WD in the holes on the VVT sprocket, and it will be buttery smooth and much easier. There's usually a LOT of oil in there, but the pin really loosens up after some 40 gets in there.
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