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Old 04-12-2010, 03:15 AM   #1
The NA Way
 
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MWR Flywheel - Problems

Just about to order one. . .

anyone had any grief/ used one, before i get it?


its still a fairly new product, i beleive, just wondering if anyone has had a chance to show faults yet?
are users happy with it?

not trying to start the ''what are the effects debate'' its not required :P im just asking about the quality / reviews

thanks guys
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Old 04-12-2010, 03:35 AM   #2
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its a flywheel what could go wrong???
unless you re use the bolts and it fly's out of your gearbox
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Old 04-12-2010, 04:50 AM   #3
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Lol. you keep changing your Sig -

well, hopefully not alot. looking for things like poor mating with certain clutch materials, juddering. and anyhing that may possibly go wrong.

theres a clip on eBay of a flywheel with the ring gear seperated from the rest of the ''1 peice'' flywheel. wether that was due to fault, driver, or what i dont know. but looking for such problems (or, lack of problems) like that
think the above was a fidanza. havent got a link to it though.
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Old 04-12-2010, 05:49 AM   #4
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Why dont you get the C-ONE type R one from KAMISPEED? It's in Chromolly , and is lighter.
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Old 04-12-2010, 05:57 AM   #5
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if i could have anything at all, it would be the TypeR. but, we have 1 UK distributer, selling for $990 !!

other than that, the best price i could find (importing direct from USA) was about $500+ del.
... il search for Kamispeed. thanks
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Old 04-12-2010, 06:14 AM   #6
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just had a dig... yea Kami sell it for $504 (compared to MWR's being $315)

pretty big difference for ~0.1lbs. MWR's is ''under 9lbs'' ... found a guy in Oz who weighed his at ~4.01kg (8.8lbs) so, is actuallythe same as the Tyre-R in total mass anyway.

Tom's looks favorable. thats up for grabs for about $440 from a USA seller.
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:15 PM   #7
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I have my MWR flywheel coming in today actually, i'll let you know once I receive it, should be within the hour or two
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:30 PM   #8
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Old 04-12-2010, 01:38 PM   #9
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why not Fidanza???
I've never had issues with it.
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Old 04-12-2010, 01:48 PM   #10
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I just got my fidanza from a member here with the ARP bolts for 315 Can't wait. From what I hear the fidanza is great!
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Old 04-12-2010, 04:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngxlos View Post
its a flywheel what could go wrong???
Believe me, something can go wrong! I know what you mean and I use to think it's a simple and safe mod too. However, The flywheel has a direct impact on the disengagement. My brand new fidanza wasn't disengaging properly and caused me troubles all the time I had it. That was a nightmare for me. Nothing cured it but a new TRD flywheel (I tried different clutches including a stock one, extended pushrod, ...). And, unfortunately, it ended up destroying my third gear and replacing the whole tranny for a new one. Everything is perfect with the tranny/clutch/flywheel since then. I am not saying all fidanza flywheels are bad (since a lot of members seems to like theirs) but mine was and I heard of at least 2-3 others that had similar issues with it. Bad production batch maybe, I dunno, but the thickness was slightly wrong on mine. In any case, that is enough for me to avoid any fidanza product and to suggest people not to buy this flywheel.

Soo, yea, it's good thing to check the different experiences people had with the flywheel you are about to buy. But, I can't say anything on the MWR flywheel, I've never tried it ..
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Old 04-12-2010, 06:47 PM   #12
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^^^^ what problems where you having???
where you grinding gears even though you steeped on the clutch???
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Old 04-12-2010, 07:57 PM   #13
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i received mine on 03/09/2010, i'll hopefully get to it sometime next week, but i won't be running my engine for a while
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Old 04-12-2010, 07:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngxlos View Post
^^^^ what problems where you having???
where you grinding gears even though you steeped on the clutch???
Not really, but this can happen after running with lack of disengagement.

Soo, my previous tranny never really grinded. But, with the fidanza, I almost always felt something was not right while putting the stick on/off gear even though the clutch was floored. Like, it wasn't smooth. The most obvious was taking the stick out of the first gear. It felt like it was almost stuck there sometimes (you don't want to force it out to much either ..). It was worst when cold. It felt better with heat but, with the outcome, it clearly was wearing the tranny, it was a matter of time. The reason, the clutch/flywheel was not disengaging the drivetrain properly. Soo, I adjusted the clutch to the maximum, used the pushrod, change the clutch .. I did it all spending big $$$ removing the tranny several times. It sometimes temporarily helped but I never found a setup/setting that would make it disengage correctly and permanently with the fidanza. And then one day, the third gear got destroyed while driving smoothly. I should have removed it the first time I suspected it to be at fault. But since it was not too bad when hot, I ended up adjusting/changing everything else and using it for too long.

Now the good news, I then made sure the blown third gear (that I was hearing moving around in the tranny after it broke) damages the tranny so much that they had no choice but to give me a brand new one (under warranty).
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Old 04-12-2010, 10:53 PM   #15
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just got my MWR flywheel in earlier, looks goods I'll see if I can take pics but it looks exactly as the picture on the site
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:13 AM   #16
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danGTS - i also had trouble with Fidanza with my last project. hence i wont use them again.

if you do the math on their weight loss too - you'l find fidada dont have the best gains in terms of reduced inertia; their weight is lost across the flywheel.
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danGTS View Post
Believe me, something can go wrong! I know what you mean and I use to think it's a simple and safe mod too. However, The flywheel has a direct impact on the disengagement. My brand new fidanza wasn't disengaging properly and caused me troubles all the time I had it. That was a nightmare for me. Nothing cured it but a new TRD flywheel (I tried different clutches including a stock one, extended pushrod, ...). And, unfortunately, it ended up destroying my third gear and replacing the whole tranny for a new one. Everything is perfect with the tranny/clutch/flywheel since then. I am not saying all fidanza flywheels are bad (since a lot of members seems to like theirs) but mine was and I heard of at least 2-3 others that had similar issues with it. Bad production batch maybe, I dunno, but the thickness was slightly wrong on mine. In any case, that is enough for me to avoid any fidanza product and to suggest people not to buy this flywheel.

Soo, yea, it's good thing to check the different experiences people had with the flywheel you are about to buy. But, I can't say anything on the MWR flywheel, I've never tried it ..


I had that flywheel and I had disengagement issues. The clutch sometimes would not disengage when I pushed in the clutch peddle. At the time, I never thought it could have been the flywheel.
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:13 AM   #18
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damn, seriously? A couple weeks ago I find out my southbend clutch is crap from some reviews and now I am also seeing that the Fidanza is troublesome.

I read on here about good experiences and I buy the part and set it aside waiting to collect other stuff and right before installation time comes I start seeing negative marks against the parts I bought. This is continuing to happen lately so maybe that is a sign I should stop modding this car and begin parting out?

good luck with your mwr flywheel, I didn't know they made their own.
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:27 AM   #19
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I also bought it because everyone like theirs on this site. And btw, my experience with the flywheel was 4-5 years ago.

Soo, that makes 2 more people having problems with the fidanza (most likely). I have a local friend who had trouble with his (he bought his around the same time as mine). Mine and his are the only 2 that we've proved without a doubt to be at fault. I have also seen another celica at a local dealer having similar issues too, he had that same flywheel. And recently, I was checking for an MR-S online (2zz). In the description, it said everything was fine except for a trouble similar to what I experienced with the transmission. And guess what ? Yeah, he had a fidanza flywheel on. And that's just a few example of similar situations. Soo, given the good reviews of this flywheel around here, I guess it's a matter of being lucky or not with the fidanza. Which is, imo, not acceptable from a performance company.

My advice, if you think you are experiencing similar issues and plan on keeping your car a while, change this flywheel before something else is screwed up. If you're happy with yours, than great!
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:22 PM   #20
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I know a guy who bought two fidanza flywheels one for him and one for a friend. HE goes to put his on and the clutch won't disnengage. Takes it off and puts the other one on and it works properly.

I've driven the Fiddy flywheel cars and I don't like it. I'll stick with my MWR 10.5lb earlier generation flywheel, which I love.
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:30 PM   #21
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when you looking at ordering? as you know i'm also v.interested in these mwr jobs - what clutch are you gonna run with it. my clutch is on its lasts so i'm looking at end of May if you want to work something out?
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:27 PM   #22
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Going to consider the MWR flywheel aswell, Im currently running an exedy organic stage 1 clutch with stock flywheel and i dont like the feel of the clutch itself. Its great when disengaging but the pedal feels very light. I recently drove a friends SP charged compressor with a helix clutch and fidanza and it tottaly won me over. For the price however the MWR is what im swaying towards nearer summer.
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:30 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by evilthorne View Post
I know a guy who bought two fidanza flywheels one for him and one for a friend. HE goes to put his on and the clutch won't disnengage. Takes it off and puts the other one on and it works properly.

I've driven the Fiddy flywheel cars and I don't like it. I'll stick with my MWR 10.5lb earlier generation flywheel, which I love.
Thx, that kindda confirm our theory ...

Back on topic ..
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:51 PM   #24
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O man. This thread scares me know. I hope you guys enjoy your MWR Flywheel, and I hope my Fidanza is problem free.
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:07 PM   #25
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dan did your car ever shake or chatter when starting from a dead stop?
I just resurfaced my flywheel and have an aftermarket clutch (stage 1 competition clutch 6-puck spring centered)
Everytime I let out the pedal unless the RPM's are over 2,000 the car shakes.
Not to jack the thread but what in the hell could be causing this??
I also had the problem with the tranny wanting to stick in 1st, but it was only when I got on the gas then let off, and shifted at mid RPM, high RPM it was fine....
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2KGTrd View Post
(stage 1 competition clutch 6-puck spring centered)
that's your problem right there
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:42 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 2KGTrd View Post
dan did your car ever shake or chatter when starting from a dead stop?
I just resurfaced my flywheel and have an aftermarket clutch (stage 1 competition clutch 6-puck spring centered)
Everytime I let out the pedal unless the RPM's are over 2,000 the car shakes.
Not to jack the thread but what in the hell could be causing this??
I also had the problem with the tranny wanting to stick in 1st, but it was only when I got on the gas then let off, and shifted at mid RPM, high RPM it was fine....
Nope, no vibration, I believe my flywheel was perfectly flat, just not the right thickness/measurement.

Is your clutch engagement point set high or low close to the floor ?

Besides, disengagement problems usually appear worst at low/mid rpm shift. But, they are still there at high rpms (making damages on the long run), they are just less noticeable ...
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:45 PM   #28
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O man. This thread scares me know. I hope you guys enjoy your MWR Flywheel, and I hope my Fidanza is problem free.
Sorry, I didn't mean to scare people! But that's some experience worth sharing. Chances are, if you never experienced anything like I and other members have described running it for several miles, you should be fine ..
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:31 AM   #29
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My $0.02

We've been selling these flywheels for a few years now with just one design revision which dropped the weight a bit. They're still a little heavier than the aluminum flywheels.

I have our steel flywheels in both my street cars and our LSR car. For the street I feel the weight (yes, about 8.8 lbs) is a perfect balance between performance and drivability. For the race car I don't have to worry about every ounce since I'm racing for at least a mile at a time but I find the weight makes it easy to launch with a big sticky tire and a big turbo. If I had an NA engine and less tire I'd probably run an aluminum flywheel. The steel flywheel has done great at 700+ hp and 9500, no problems.

In both cases it's nice to be able to resurface the flywheel just like a stock piece when the clutch is replaced.

And on the functional concerns, I don't believe we've ever had anyone report a clutch engagement problem with our flywheels. Occasionally people have had issues when using the stock flywheel and the fidanza but in every case I can think of it has been an issue with the clutch or the hydraulic system, not the flywheel. I have never seen any of these flywheels with an incorrect step height.
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:37 AM   #30
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what material / clutch have you got mated to it? or, reccomend?

(im not running 750bhp)


you using the ACT clutches?
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:34 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by monkeywrench View Post
Occasionally people have had issues when using the stock flywheel and the fidanza but in every case I can think of it has been an issue with the clutch or the hydraulic system, not the flywheel. I have never seen any of these flywheels with an incorrect step height.
As an info, I have never changed anything on my hydraulic system. It's been working like a charm now with the same hydraulic system for several years. I also have tried 3 different clucthes (2 RPS street max and 1 stock clutch) with that fidanza flywheel. Same problem every time.
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Best E.T. (i/e/DR only) : 13.96 @ 102.1 mph; Best 1/8 : 8.95

Last edited by danGTS; 04-14-2010 at 05:23 PM..
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Old 04-14-2010, 06:23 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by youngxlos View Post
that's your problem right there
I didn't think they were a bad brand?
I wanted ACT but didn't have the money, and had to replace it right then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by danGTS View Post
Is your clutch engagement point set high or low close to the floor ?
I would say it's closer to the floor. It was really high and I adjusted it lower.
How do I know if I need an extended push rod? i don't think mine requires it, just checking.
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Old 04-14-2010, 06:43 PM   #33
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Quote:
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I didn't think they were a bad brand?
I wanted ACT but didn't have the money, and had to replace it right then.
I dont think he means ACT is a bad brand, I think what he is trying to say is that you having a 6 puck clutch is a bit overboard for a litely modified celica. You need a street/strip type clutch.
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:15 PM   #34
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I didn't think they were a bad brand?
I wanted ACT but didn't have the money, and had to replace it right then.


I would say it's closer to the floor. It was really high and I adjusted it lower.
How do I know if I need an extended push rod? i don't think mine requires it, just checking.
Then you don't need it. Actually, nobody should need that rod if everything is in the same spec as the stock parts. But in some cases, it makes a lil bandaid on a bigger problem..

About the vibration. If your flywheel was resurfaced properly, then maybe your clutch have issues ..
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Old 04-15-2010, 05:33 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by danGTS View Post
Then you don't need it. Actually, nobody should need that rod if everything is in the same spec as the stock parts. But in some cases, it makes a lil bandaid on a bigger problem..

About the vibration. If your flywheel was resurfaced properly, then maybe your clutch have issues ..
I was told the exact same thing from my guy who fitted my clutch for me. I insist on fitting the extended push rod to see if it is a little problem solver for me hating my clutch.
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Originally Posted by GSBoek View Post
I really don't know, I just squeezed and played with the whole thing until I got it to fit. I think the filter itself was close to 8".
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Old 04-15-2010, 06:33 AM   #36
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I have an MWR 9Lb Chromoly flywheel with ARP bolts and LOVE IT! Revs are quick, engagement is smooth and solid. I have an ACT heavy duty clutch with a performance street disk, never slips and I get on it quite often, I live on a highway and take another major highway to work so I like to have some fun running through the gears. I've had this setup for over two years now and it's still very strong. MWR is awesome, good service and fast shipping. I will order from them again and again!!
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Old 04-15-2010, 06:52 AM   #37
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thanks
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:15 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farhanali89 View Post
I was told the exact same thing from my guy who fitted my clutch for me. I insist on fitting the extended push rod to see if it is a little problem solver for me hating my clutch.
See it that way : if you have a perfectly stock setup, adding the pushrod will press the pressure plate deeper than it should. Then, it might be just fine, but you might hurt your pressure plate, have different disengagement ... If it's not a perfect stock setup, then you are kindda rolling the dices ..

I used the pushrod when I know my tranny wasn't disengaging properly. It helped it at the time. The risk of hurting something else was worth it since I was helping the tranny disengage from the drivetrain. But, like I said, it's a bandaid. My pressure plate also got damaged (in part because of that) in the end.
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:58 PM   #39
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i just put an exedy clutch in mine with a stock flywheel, once engaged i feel no slip, nothing, but the pedal feel is way too soft.
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Old 04-15-2010, 04:34 PM   #40
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Exedy is excellent stuff. TRD japan clutch is made by Exedy. It could have been more agressive but it's good stuff.
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Old 04-15-2010, 06:08 PM   #41
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MWR never have any problems with what they sell! yia OK!
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:08 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gtsjeg04 View Post
I dont think he means ACT is a bad brand, I think what he is trying to say is that you having a 6 puck clutch is a bit overboard for a litely modified celica. You need a street/strip type clutch.
I was refereng to Competition Clutch as a brand.
I know ACT is one of the best.
The clutch is only a stage 1 with at most 40% more torque holding capability.
It's supposed to be a street clutch.
I wouldn't think that something so mild would be giving me as many problems.
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:18 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2KGTrd View Post
I was refereng to Competition Clutch as a brand.
I know ACT is one of the best.
The clutch is only a stage 1 with at most 40% more torque holding capability.
It's supposed to be a street clutch.
I wouldn't think that something so mild would be giving me as many problems.
Which pressure plate are you using?
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Old 07-29-2011, 04:10 PM   #44
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Great info dangts.. I will be putting my stock pushrod back in after reading this- If my clutch has disengagement issues, I will install extended pushrod to save myself from damaging the pressure plate.

HDSS-Fidanza-5spd- Do think I will need the extended?
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:45 AM   #45
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I don't know about the 5spd but my GT-S fidanza "needed" the pushrod ...
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:48 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danGTS View Post
I don't know about the 5spd but my GT-S fidanza "needed" the pushrod ...
Really? Could you describe the scenario that made you realize the pushrod was needed?

I have act hdss and fidanza on a 2zz and have about 15k on the parts but I am using oem pushrod. I have the extended one on a shelf because I thought I may need it but the car has been fine to drive so far. Does the pushrod only help with not having to push it all the way to the floor for disengagement?
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:24 AM   #47
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If your clutch disengages completely at a reasonable pedal height then you don't need the pushrod. If your clutch only disengages when the pedal is too close to the floor even after adjusting it then you need the pushrod. If the engagement is too close to the floor it beats up the synchros on fast shifts and may not disengage completely which causes misshifts and synchro damage, sometimes even broken shift forks.

I find the extended pushrod puts the slave cylinder in a somewhat better segment of its travel and makes it work better. It's a self adjusting hydraulic system so it doesn't over-disengage in my experience.
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Old 08-30-2011, 12:14 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeywrench View Post
If your clutch disengages completely at a reasonable pedal height then you don't need the pushrod. If your clutch only disengages when the pedal is too close to the floor even after adjusting it then you need the pushrod. If the engagement is too close to the floor it beats up the synchros on fast shifts and may not disengage completely which causes misshifts and synchro damage, sometimes even broken shift forks.

I find the extended pushrod puts the slave cylinder in a somewhat better segment of its travel and makes it work better. It's a self adjusting hydraulic system so it doesn't over-disengage in my experience.
so it wont really hurt to put it in there?

I seem to notice different pedal grab heights when the car is completely cold vs after a half hour drive. Cold car seems to result with 1-1.5 inches from floor being the catch point. As it warms up it seems to move up more like 3 inches from the floor to catch. Could be characteristic of the ACT clutch. Just wanted to make sure it had nothing to do with my pushrod or fluids. Although it seems to me like it might be fluid pressure related.
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