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Old 12-29-2009, 08:05 AM   #201
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See the sticky on choices for bypassing the amp.
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Old 12-29-2009, 09:25 AM   #202
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Thanks. New here, sorry I missed that. Looks like modding is the best option. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:49 PM   #203
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audio question

Great post. Just finished body kit now to replace HU. Thought a piece of cake. Did not use any extra harness & spliced into speaker wires near connector. (did not know about separate amp at the time). Also added subwoofer with amp. Speakers are loud & do not match subwoofer output. There is some noise thou not too bad. If I am successful at this mod u describe will it take care of the signal difference between the speakers & subwoofer and the noise? Hu is JVC KD-AVX11
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:18 PM   #204
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Little Confused.....
First of all I've read through this thread twice now and have learned a lot about this mod and so I was hoping to work on it today but I have encountered a problem that has been mentioned several times and I never saw it answered which is that the BHA8113 I received has the original resistors wired right into the harness connecting pins so there's no extended pins. The last person who proposed this same question I noticed 2way told them they needed to read the thread more closely so I re read it before asking but I still haven't figured out what I need to do with mine? Would appreciate any assistance, thanks!

EDIT: OK looks like I've found the information I need with regards to this harness, new Q though?... Are all the BHA8113's now with the series restors wired right into the pins or do some of them still have the extended pins like they were originally reported? Anyone know?

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Old 03-15-2010, 01:03 AM   #205
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After reading this, i am still unclear to see how much/strong of a resistor do you need any help is appreciated
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Old 03-19-2010, 06:11 AM   #206
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So dumb question, I looked through the thread but probably overlooked it.
the wire labeled amplifier ground gets grounded where? the other black/white white gets grounded where? I've seen a photo where both wires looked tied together, I've read that both should not be grounded together?
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Old 03-20-2010, 08:50 AM   #207
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anyone? i've been through the thread a couple times and i'm still not 100% sure. my car is 'over there' and i'm 'over here', walking between here and there in the blustery cold is not fun and there is no way for me to get internet in the car. so i when i do mess with the car, i have everything as close to 100% ready to just 'plug in' as possible. just these last two wires are dangling here...a little help please?
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Old 03-25-2010, 06:48 PM   #208
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so good news, no sounds, bad news is no sound. common issues that produce no sound with the harness that i should check? powered up headunit here in the home to test its rca outputs, they work fine. help?
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:18 PM   #209
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POS + remote amp turn on HU lead (or switched +12V) connected to pin 3 of the amp (red wire)?
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:19 PM   #210
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POS + remote amp turn on HU lead (or switched +12V) connected to pin 3 of the amp (red wire)?
all i have is the harness the fellow made for me, is the turn on for the amp at the radio harness or do i need to go all the way to the amp? which pin/wire at the radio might that be? i want to get this all set and wired to just plug in, my working time is limited and the smoother the better. thankyou.


IDIOT AHOY! i found my problem and thankyou! i totally forgot to connect my striped blue to striped blue. i don't know what i was thinking, i was thinking that was for my basslink which is added later, didn't occur to me that i'd need the remote to kick on the factory amp.
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Old 04-24-2010, 07:19 PM   #211
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I need help urgently. I am an idiot when it comes to frequency things and i just cant figure out how much resistors i need to put into my harness. I have a KENWOOD KDC-MP342u and this is what is listed in the owners manual.

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/UserFiles/.../kdcmp342u.pdf
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Old 04-24-2010, 07:35 PM   #212
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Use what is recommended for 2V
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Old 04-24-2010, 07:41 PM   #213
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i looked at the table and it says this:


2v : 154 ohms = 150mv / 211 ohms = 200mv

&

2v: 154 ohms =150mv / 211 ohms =200mv / 271 ohms =250mv / 633 ohms =500mv / 1.9k =1volt

so i will need 633 ohm resistors?
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Old 04-25-2010, 06:21 AM   #214
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so i will need 633 ohm resistors?
Try 680 ohm.
If it isn't loud enough, go higher (like 698, 715, 732, or 750). If its too noisy, go lower (like 655, 649, 634, 620, or 560).
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:29 PM   #215
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I have a question here : How do you pull the damn wires out of the connector! I didn't manage to pull them out so I finally decided to strip the RCA cable and put the resistors there... but RCA cables are co-axial (right?) and I only put the resistors on the external wire...I still get the annoying ECU sound.... If someone could tell me how to pull the wires out of the connector or if I had to put the resistors on the internal wire of the RCA...!?!?! Thank you


Edit: I put 330 ohms and my stereo outputs 5v.... They were the only resistors I could find....
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:39 PM   #216
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I only put the resistors on the external wire
Need to go on the center conductor. The outside is just braided copper shield to ground.

While it will knock the audio level down, to get the best interference reduction, you need to put the resistors you install on the amp side of the existing resistor.
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:01 PM   #217
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Aight, thanks a lot. I'll need to get it all out once again... but that center connector is so thiny... hope I won't make something wrong!! haha
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Old 11-10-2010, 06:06 PM   #218
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to start, I have a pioneer that is 2.2v @ 1k ohm. and rear rca out only. i used 2 y-adapters to split for front and rear. the wire kit i bought didnt have any resistors in it so i only added 1k ohm resistor to ground for each of the 4 rca wires. it helped the noise, but its still there. do i need to add a resistor inline with my rca cables?
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Old 11-10-2010, 06:51 PM   #219
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You've got some math and other figuring to do. You will need to decide which series resistance you want to add - the new or the old value - and then do the calculation for 1.1V for the parallel resistor.
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:41 AM   #220
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well, using one of the calculators list on page 2, it looks like i can wire in 2 matching resistors, we'll say, 1000ohm in-line, and 1000ohm to grd and that will drop the voltage, but 1ohm in-line and 1ohm to ground produce the same voltage drop. the rca out said 2.2v @ 1k ohm. so should i stick w/ the 1k resistors or change all of them? i have electrical in high school, but it wasnt this indepth...
thank you
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:49 PM   #221
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OP mentioned that if your HU has only 2 RCA pre-amp outputs, you can use splitters but you'll need to double the values of the resistors you solder on. Is that still the case if you mod the Metra/Crutchfield harness that has no built-in resistors to begin with?
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:51 PM   #222
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Did the mod on the Metra/Crutchfield harness (no built-in resistors) with 500 ohm resistors. My HU had two 2V pre-amp outputs (L&R), and I used Y splitters to hook up to the factory amp's 4 RCA inputs.
Worked like a charm, got rid of 99% noise.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:41 PM   #223
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Or ignore all the math, and get you a four channel line out converter, and use the decks speaker level outputs.
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Old 06-04-2011, 04:19 PM   #224
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Hey All & Subj: About Installing Radios in non-FactoryAMP Celi's

Wow, it's hard to believe this post is still going, I think it's been over 8-years but I'm glad it's still helping folks get noiseless sound from their Celi's. And before you ask -yes-, I still have my '02 GT-S and still take it out once in awhile to surf the blacktop because Celi's still drive smoother, faster, and more stable at cruise altitude than most, and the noiseless surround system makes everything outside the windows look way better than a 3D movie ever could (opens moonroof). We love our Celi's.

I'm dropping by to respond to a PM (yes I still get them, though don't always see them right away) and thought I'd share this one. Basically a guy was wiring a radio into a non-FactoryAMP Celi but had noise problems, so here are the cliff notes:

"First, the thread is mainly for those who have the StockAMP and a HU w/LineOUT's to drive it. Find the original thread for pics & help here:
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/show...=Scosche+TA-03

If your Celi didn't come with the optional FactoryAMP, then the Toyota wiring harness is different and your speakers will be wired directly to the Toyota connector from the harness hanging behind the radio.

When you said you didn't connect FR- FL- RR- RL- I'm not sure I understand. The FR- FL- RR- RL- from the Radio -must- be connected to the FR- FL- RR- RL- in the connector from the non-FactoryAMP Toyota harness behind the radio. You can't tie them all together and connect them to ground without risk of creating noise in the audio system.

Usually in car radios w/built-in amps there are 4-amps and each is isolated from the other to prevent crosstalk, including the output wires... they may all be labeled "-" and you may think it's ok to strap them together since they're all labelled the same, but this defeats the purpose of the design which is to isolate audio & noise from each channel from getting back into the other channels.

I think the AMP+ wire from your radio is probably the AMP Turn-On wire which needs to be connected to ACC or IGN (accessory or ignition +12VDC) so when you set your ignition key to ACC or ON the radio will power-up. The non-FactoryAMP Toyota connector/harness doesn't provide this wire, but there should be a single wire behind the radio (color-coded "GR", which I think is Dark GRN w/RED Stripe) and that's the ACC wire for the radio.

If you find it, try connecting your radio's AMP+ to that wire. (If you have a test lamp or meter, test the wire first by putting your key in the ignition and turning it to Accessory to see if it lights the test lamp or shows +12Volts on the test meter)

Once you straighten this out you should be fine."


Good luck,
PacificBlue
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Old 08-24-2011, 02:07 AM   #225
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Thanks you PB

my car is GTS 2001, have the 6 speakers system with limited wire, only 4+ for speaker no - had the toughest time installing my new system. Recently found an extra harness not connecting to anything behind the radio with 5 black/white wires. I was thinking if that's the - for the speakers until PB confirms it. I don't care its 11 at night im running down to the parking to test it out. Hope it works.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:48 AM   #226
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Recently found an extra harness not connecting to anything behind the radio with 5 black/white wires.
Sounds like the GND junction connector. Should be a mate on the right side console strut.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:29 PM   #227
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Hallo. Sorry for many questions but ..... :-)

1) Is here some possibility to buy some quality brand but notOEM HU which fit Celi 00-02 with JBL directly? Without the mod, noise etc (soldering? may be...) something with the same parameters on the output like OEM AMP?

2) Is somewhere on the net some table with newer Toy HU which fit these "old" cars with factory AMP directly? Something like E7006 with USB etc. Is here some E.Shop with new OEM HU?

3) Are your experiences with the 4resists + 4resists on harness realy so good? I am afraid to buy some relative expensive branded head unit and risk the bad sound.

I was buying some Chinese but not so cheap stereo with the normal sound (tested in RAV4) but if i was connect it with the 4/4 resistor to the amp - the sound is flat.


Thank you for some info! I think that the amp is JBL but probably not :-)
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:22 AM   #228
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1) The '00-'02 is not JBL. But, does have an outboard amp.

Many folks bypass the amp & replace the speakers. Some have gone the Scion HU route.

However, the sound should not be "flat" if you are using the resistors, the amp, & low level HU outputs.
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Old 01-25-2012, 03:51 PM   #229
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thanks for reply! I have no idea about Scion (this car is not on EU market) > but as it look :-) > if I understand well > the 00-02 has not the JBL amp - ok. But if I buy some newer Toy / Scion HU with 20PIN output - work this with my TOY AMP directly (plug & play & go) or there must be some other modifications? Is the "later" JBL 20PIN output compatibile with older "NoName" Toyota amplifier and wiring harness?

Sorry for my lame questions but i try read everythink about this but is realy hard for me. If i want Celica i must buy it on Ebay and ship she across the ocean. If i want the simply Scoche adaptor i must buy it on Ebay and waiting about month, if i want some Scion stereo i must buy it on the Ebay and waitng about month, pay taxes+duty+great shipping, if i want ask the Toyota seller in my country he says me "hmm, have no idea, cut the cables"...if i ask the caraudio specialist he says me "You must buy some VW or AUDI, why do you have some strange japanese car?" etc :-) the Europe is land of AUDI, VW and other garbages. IF the peoples are young, they want some small silver VW, if they are older, they want some bigger silver VW, if they ar realy old - the want some biggest silver VW. And Celicas? Few fanatics...
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:19 AM   #230
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But if I buy some newer Toy / Scion HU with 20PIN output - work this with my TOY AMP directly (plug & play & go) or there must be some other modifications?
Should be plug & play.

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Is the "later" JBL 20PIN output compatibile with older "NoName" Toyota amplifier and wiring harness?
As I recall, yes.

You don't really need the Scosche. Its just convenient. You can cut or tap the existing harness, if necessary.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:33 PM   #231
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I really could you some of your guys experiance with my setup as it is a bit unique as the preamp audio source I am using is ~340millivolts @1k. I have read through this mod, and I definitally need to do it, but with my low voltage I am unsure what resistors to use. My TA-03(B) checked out on the meter as having 2.2k resistors, and I know I want as close to 500mv as possible going into the factory amp.

Based on this I assume I should remove the 2.2k resistors as to not lower my input voltage any more, but if I do so what should I use as terminating resistors? I do not know how to tell what size is needed for this low of a input voltage to properly eliminate noise.

Also, is my 340mv close enough to the 500mv recommended for the factory amp, or do I need to use a line driver/preamp to get good sound with the lower input voltage?

Thanks, any inofrmation is appreciated.
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:10 PM   #232
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Guys, I am still looking for some assistance. My source is a soundcard putting out 334mv with a unknown internal impedance. It is a sound blaster live external USB 24bit. I have tried looking in manual and mfg site to find internal impedance of the card but it doesn't seem to be published anywhere.

I have added a preamp to get the source up to line level, and the preamp brings me up to 4.4 volts so I modded my TA-03b with 300ohm resistors on top of the 2200ohm in it already. The preamp is a Behringer PP400 with a input impedance of 47000 ohms and a output impedance of 50 ohms.

I got all kind of noises in my test in the past few days. Anyone have any suggestions for me? Do I need additional terminating resistors or a change to my setup?
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:40 PM   #233
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Did you try it straight from the soundcard into the amp?

As for the pre-amp.... output is low impedance.... input is high... you'd probably want terminating resistors on the input side.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:09 AM   #234
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Hey PacificBlue, your write up for installing decks with resistors is the best help any could ever get and it is very clear. However I seem to have run into a snag. I have a 2002 gts and I bought the same harness you suggested with the 1.9k ohms resistor and looked at the chart to add another 220 ohms because I believe my preouts are 4v. I followed exactly to your instructions but when it came to plugging everything together I have absolutely no sound. Everything works just no sound. My deck is the pioneer 8400bh. Please if you could tell me where I went wrong I would appreciate it.

Ps I double checked everything. I have just the rca's plugged in,as I didn't connect the speaker wires from the decks harness in anyway.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:52 AM   #235
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You might want to double-check if your HU's ANT or AMP ON wire is connected to the AMP ON wire in the Scosche harness (see my last post) Originally this wire activated a motorized antenna when you turned the radio on, retracting it when you turn it off. The Toyota STOCK AMP won't turn on without it. As for your HU's speaker wires, that's right they aren't used... cap or tape them off.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:13 PM   #236
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Thank you! for the detailed information PacificBlue appreaciate it! everything is working flawless now and could not be happier with the result, BUT i do have one small problem that came out of no where. when i first got sound, everything was amazing no background noise what so ever but after a few days i noticed a light tapping from the speaks starting. the tapping is only there when the engine is running and doesnt change with revs or load on power (ex. when i turn on highbeams/foglights and move the windows up and down) it also doesnt get louder when i turn up the volume, i can only hear it when the HU is on mute or less than volume 4. Now i havent gone and checked everything yet as i have orderd the microbypass and i am waiting for that to come in before i open everything up again. but other than checking for the obvious like loose connections/ground i was hoping maybe if you had time you could list a couple of things you might believe could be causing the problem.

Ps. im not using the bluebox as you recommended against it and like i was saying the noise was not there to begin with, just recently it started.

And thanks again for your help with your expertice on the matter and for everyone else who had done their testing aswell and brought the info to the table for all to share! YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME!
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:25 PM   #237
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Glad you're up & running, that feeling when all of a sudden everything works after endless days & frustrating hours is pretty awesome. Welcome back to the quiet world! As for residual noise, you might take a look at the notes on "Troubleshooting Grounds" posted near the beginning of the thread:
Click Here: Troubleshooting Grounds

For me, adding a heavy-duty copper ground wire physically attached to the HU's metal cabinet and bolting the other end to the Celi's dash frame helped kill-off the remaining residual noise (see link to SWF animatic below pic). Scrape or metal-brush the metal underneath the bolts/screws before you cinch them down. I used crimp lugs on the ends of the wire to protect the copper strands from getting broken when cinching down the bolts: you want all the copper strands you can get. (sidenote: in pro-audio they try not to nick or break the copper strands in the center conductor or braided shield when prepping cables so they get the maximum amount of signal & shielding - the higher the quality of copper & more of it the better)

If you've still got any annoying noises left, you might checkout "Analog Ground vrs. Digital Ground" or in plain English: Signal Ground vrs. Power/Chassis/Frame Ground and why they're kept separate:
Click Here: "Couple more questions... Where does the digital ground go?"

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Old 01-28-2013, 02:33 AM   #238
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Thanks PacificBlue your help is as valuable as gold! I got the micro bypass and got everything checked out. I redid the grounding wires as you metioned the pros try not to damage any strands and the background sound has significantly degraded, I can barely tell. I just have one last question. Do you know how many watts the factory amp is kicking? Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:03 AM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2way View Post
(22) How much power does the OEM Premium Sound amp put out?

The 8 speaker '00-'02 Premium sound amp (6 channels) is supplied by a 15A fuse. Maximum power to the Amp= 15A * 14.4V = 216W.
Now, you usually spec the DC fusing with like a 20% buffer for voltage fluctuations..... so, you're probably looking at an actual max. current draw of 12A (*14.4V=172.8W).

Amps are not 100% efficient. So, say its around 87% efficient (which is probably high)... that puts you at around 150W.... / 6 channels = 25W per channel. More than likely. the amp is less efficient and is rated below 12A (some of that 15A fusing has to go to supplying the HU)... it is more likely around 120W / 6 channels = 20W per channel.

The single rear speakers & the front woofers are rated 25W and the front component mid/tweets are rated 17.5W.

The '03+ JBL system probably has the same max. power. However, it only has 4 channels (no separate sub ch's) and may have a higher per channel rating. If you figure it as a 120W amp, then it would be 30W per ch. vs. the '00-'02 20W per ch.
^
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:49 AM   #240
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Ah, so the factory amp is all used up...lol Thank you 2way!
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Old 09-13-2015, 05:46 PM   #241
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Whats the change the images for this can be hosted here on the forum? None of them work.

Such an informative thread to have to rely on going to another website to read then back and forth to read the posts and comments...
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relay and rewire for semi-independent fog light operation


Yes, It's an Automatic.
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Old 07-29-2016, 03:31 PM   #242
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Full article and preserved images on the OP's site here:
http://pacificbluegts.tripod.com/id1.html
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:41 AM   #243
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Dead images & links updated 4/2017

Hard to believe I'm posting this 14-yrs after the original post which started the thread. I dropped by mainly to answer a few PM's received recently and decided to update a bunch of dead image links since it looks like people are still finding the thread helpful. And yes, the backup site at Tripod is still up and has all the original images in case the ones here go dark again.

Happy Modding everyone!


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