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Old 06-15-2013, 08:55 PM   #201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbonblue1zz View Post
This has been bugging me for a long time, there is nothing wrong with the 1zz motor, in many ways it is better than the 2zz. People always think that horsepower is what makes the motor, or the car fast, smh, trust me when I say that if you want good N/A power you can get it from the 1zz, do a tranny swap to an e153, with a light weight flywheel, put in your standard CAI, go header back with 2.5 " piping mandrel bent, cat delete and no muffler, do your pulleys and upgrade your valve springs, retainers and such, you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water , but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
I think you should do some more research.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:09 PM   #202
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lol no. E153 has long gears which would make the 1ZZ even slower and your 170tq is totally off the rockers as is your 1/4 time.
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Old 06-16-2013, 03:57 AM   #203
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This has been bugging me for a long time, there is nothing wrong with the 1zz motor, in many ways it is better than the 2zz.
Sig worthy.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:53 PM   #204
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you will also have around 170 tq
That's a very generous estimate...
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Old 06-16-2013, 03:30 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbonblue1zz View Post
This has been bugging me for a long time, there is nothing wrong with the 1zz motor, in many ways it is better than the 2zz. People always think that horsepower is what makes the motor, or the car fast, smh, trust me when I say that if you want good N/A power you can get it from the 1zz, do a tranny swap to an e153, with a light weight flywheel, put in your standard CAI, go header back with 2.5 " piping mandrel bent, cat delete and no muffler, do your pulleys and upgrade your valve springs, retainers and such, you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water , but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
Has 1 post guys. Must be trolling
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Old 06-16-2013, 03:41 PM   #206
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:02 AM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbonblue1zz View Post
This has been bugging me for a long time, there is nothing wrong with the 1zz motor, in many ways it is better than the 2zz. People always think that horsepower is what makes the motor, or the car fast, smh, trust me when I say that if you want good N/A power you can get it from the 1zz, do a tranny swap to an e153, with a light weight flywheel, put in your standard CAI, go header back with 2.5 " piping mandrel bent, cat delete and no muffler, do your pulleys and upgrade your valve springs, retainers and such, you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water , but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
A stock 1ZZ makes 128 lb-ft of peak torque. You will not be adding anywhere close to 40 lb-ft of torque on a N/A 1.8 liter engine with those mods to bring it to 170. No offense but what you are saying sounds like the typical ricer math of summing up numbers for CAI/Exhaust/pulley etc. It doesn't quite work that way.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:25 AM   #208
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There's no replacement for displacement
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:54 PM   #209
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Originally Posted by carbonblue1zz View Post
you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water ,
No way on the torque. As for the WHP, welcome to having a stock GT-S with 500$ of mods! Plus the 2zz is made much stronger and efficient from the start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carbonblue1zz View Post
but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
No way. Low 13 is build N/A 2zz territory.

Good luck!
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:59 PM   #210
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I'm painting my wife's Yaris Carbonblue! It will blow any 2ZZ out there!
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:00 PM   #211
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I'm painting my wife's Yaris Carbonblue! It will blow any 2ZZ out there!
Carbon Blue!!
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:12 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBoek View Post
This has been bugging me for a long time, there is nothing wrong with the 1zz motor, in many ways it is better than the 2zz. People always think that horsepower is what makes the motor, or the car fast, smh, trust me when I say that if you want good N/A power you can get it from the 1zz, do a tranny swap to an e153, with a light weight flywheel, put in your standard CAI, go header back with 2.5 " piping mandrel bent, cat delete and no muffler, do your pulleys and upgrade your valve springs, retainers and such, you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water , but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
I use to own a GT. I had intake/exhaust/header, plus Crower stage 2, spring and retrainer. it was a waste of money!!!! AND I had a custom 2zz intake manifold fitted on my 1zz. FEELS strong, but not as fast as what you said.

NOW, i have a GTS. Intake, exhaust, and header alone feels a hell lot faster then what i use to drive.

GTS FTW
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:23 PM   #213
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I'm painting my wife's Yaris Carbonblue! It will blow any 2ZZ out there!
Slutty Yaris
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:47 PM   #214
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Slutty Yaris
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:46 PM   #215
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Originally Posted by jin602_05 View Post
I use to own a GT. I had intake/exhaust/header, plus Crower stage 2, spring and retrainer. it was a waste of money!!!! AND I had a custom 2zz intake manifold fitted on my 1zz. FEELS strong, but not as fast as what you said.

NOW, i have a GTS. Intake, exhaust, and header alone feels a hell lot faster then what i use to drive.

GTS FTW
It didn't help you with the art of quoting though. I still don't know how you managed to pull it off and quote me saying the stuff that the other guy said.
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:26 AM   #216
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What is the blue bomber mod? I've searched, but only came up with a member named blue bomber.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:43 PM   #217
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So what should be bought first... Dd performance IM or stage 3 cams with valves springs and retainers ??? I'm in the market for either but I want both in the future but I can only get one first haha.
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Old 04-09-2014, 05:08 AM   #218
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First would be a standalone ECU (if you don't have one yet) as both of those mods would need proper tuning to take advantage of what they offer. Once you have the ECU it won't matter which one you get first.
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:43 PM   #219
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First would be a standalone ECU (if you don't have one yet) as both of those mods would need proper tuning to take advantage of what they offer. Once you have the ECU it won't matter which one you get first.
Just bought a Pfc sooo ok yeah either one is fine, I'm probably going to go with the cams and stuff first
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:43 PM   #220
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I imagine they'll be easier to find than a DDPR IM.
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:06 PM   #221
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I imagine they'll be easier to find than a DDPR IM.
That's for sure . Yeah I am going for the mwr stage 3 cams. Just ordered some mwr pullies and got a hella deal on 440cc injectors and power fc can't wait to receive all these goodies
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:26 PM   #222
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Hope no one be bugged in bringing it back up.

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Daily Driver $50 - $3500
Step 1 - Injen CAI (AEM or E-bay w/ Blue bomber mod if you don't intend to continue to step 5 and beyond.)
Step 2- Exhaust - Magnaflow - RSR, something free flowing. TRD is not free flowing.
Step 3 - DD Performance Research Intake manifold with Q45 Throttle Body
Step 4 - Ceramic coated PPE race header with NO cat.
If you can't afford PPE then Ceramic coated ported stock header with decat
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Is there anything else that is needed for the ehaut besides the Magnaflow catback and PPE header? Are these things that should be bought used or new?

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Old 09-03-2014, 07:07 PM   #223
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Re: How to make good NA (Naturally Aspirated) Power on your Celica

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Hope no one be bugged in bringing it back up.



Is there anything else that is needed for the ehaut besides the Magnaflow catback and PPE header? Are these things that should be bought used or new?
Used or new wont matter
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Old 09-17-2014, 06:54 PM   #224
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I imagine they'll be easier to find than a DDPR IM.
I dunno, I never have any problems finding one of our manifolds....
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Old 09-17-2014, 06:58 PM   #225
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I dunno, I never have any problems finding one of our manifolds....
LOL True - I could see one every day if I wanted.
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Old 06-14-2015, 12:26 PM   #226
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So I drive a 2004 Toyota Celica GT-S. If I buy the PPE Race Header from ppeengineering.com would I also need to buy the Air Injection Tube? And what collector should I get?
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Old 10-02-2015, 11:34 AM   #227
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what is the highest compression we are able to run on pump gas?
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:05 AM   #228
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what is the highest compression we are able to run on pump gas?
what octane pump gas? on 91 or 93 you can run about 12.3:1 with a good tune. I have heard of people getting away with as high as 13:1 on 93 octane as well, but have never pushed it that far myself.
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:53 AM   #229
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I think the TRD pistons were 13:1 and touted to run on the stock ECM?
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Old 11-05-2015, 12:22 PM   #230
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I think the TRD pistons were 13:1 and touted to run on the stock ECM?
In Japan yes - don't know what octane they have.
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Old 11-05-2015, 01:29 PM   #231
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Will the magnaflow exhausts pass emissions tests or do I need to change my exhaust back to stock every time I go to get an inspection?
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Old 11-05-2015, 03:14 PM   #232
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In Japan yes - don't know what octane they have.

Same as we do but rated on a different scale I think. I think they also sold a Japan only remapped ECM for the pistons cams and exhaust combo but not sure. May be thinking of Toms for the 3S and 4A.
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Old 11-07-2015, 10:51 AM   #233
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Same as we do but rated on a different scale I think. I think they also sold a Japan only remapped ECM for the pistons cams and exhaust combo but not sure. May be thinking of Toms for the 3S and 4A.
Yeah - I would chance 13:1 on 93 with a tune. Would definitely rock it on E85.
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:36 AM   #234
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Hey so I remember PPE headers having a notoriety for cracking a while back, is that still an issue? Was it a fabrication problem or people installing them in a way that put stress on the manifold? It looks like they have a flat flange to mate to the mid pipe, does the PPE mid pipe with cat have a flex section at all?
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:42 AM   #235
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Hey so I remember PPE headers having a notoriety for cracking a while back, is that still an issue? Was it a fabrication problem or people installing them in a way that put stress on the manifold? It looks like they have a flat flange to mate to the mid pipe, does the PPE mid pipe with cat have a flex section at all?
PPE uses a donut gasket for the flex joint just like the factory header. The spyder ones don't really ever crack, and I haven't heard of any issues with the Celica ones in a long time either.
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:18 AM   #236
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No way on the torque. As for the WHP, welcome to having a stock GT-S with 500$ of mods! Plus the 2zz is made much stronger and efficient from the start.



No way. Low 13 is build N/A 2zz territory.

Good luck!

I ran 13.44 with a tune and a set of stage 2 cams. That was also me letting off at the end. (This was in my Mr2)
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:51 AM   #237
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PPE uses a donut gasket for the flex joint just like the factory header. The spyder ones don't really ever crack, and I haven't heard of any issues with the Celica ones in a long time either.

Awesome
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no, don't even waste your time. if you want a honest sticker, at least get one that says "objects in mirror aren't really racing, so quit trying"...
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Old 11-15-2015, 12:47 AM   #238
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Most cold air intakes aren't worth the boxes they come in. The stock air intake funnels in cold air from the front of the car, where as most of those aftermarket ones that hang somewhere in the engine compartment send hot underhood air into the engine....they should really be called "hot air intakes". There are several Youtube dyno vids that compare stock vs. aftermarket intakes, and the aftermarket ones actually lost a few hp. Unless your aftermarket intake gets it's air directly from the front of the car, keep it stock---just because it's fancy doesn't always mean it will work better.
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:50 AM   #239
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You're wrong. Cold air intakes take air from outside the engine bay, which is why they're called that. Warm air intakes or short ram intakes take it from inside the engine bay which when driving isn't much different than the outside air temp. Honestly there's really not much difference for a stock engine between either intake or stock, but when you deviate from stock the factory airbox may not flow enough air or even fit anymore. My CAI pulls from the wheel well just behind the driver side fog light.
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2000 Celica GT-S 'slowest GT-S evar'
1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'
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I'm gay
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Originally Posted by soundman98
no, don't even waste your time. if you want a honest sticker, at least get one that says "objects in mirror aren't really racing, so quit trying"...
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Old 02-03-2016, 01:23 PM   #240
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This may have been asked before, but I can't seem to find the answer while searching. Will the PPE midpipe bolt up to the stock cat back? I know a performance header should be put on after a cat back is done, but I had a leak up by the front of the midpipe and the header so I figured while I'm up there I might as well get the PPE and not have to go back to it. I've got the header and the midpipe now and I'll be ordering the magnaflow in a couple days but I'd like to get rid of the leak sooner than later.
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Old 02-03-2016, 10:30 PM   #241
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Will the PPE midpipe bolt up to the stock cat back?
Yes Sir it will do, I have one^^
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:52 AM   #242
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Ok, thank you!
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