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Old 10-31-2005, 08:26 AM   #1
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Celica Coolant Bleeding Procedure

Celica Coolant Bleeding Procedure

This is the method I have found to work best for bleeding the coolant at home in the driveway. There are better ways (vacuum system) if you have a fully equipped automotive shop. This is merely my opinion, not an official or approved repair, and I take no responsibility for the health and wellbeing of anyone who uses it or their vehicles.

Important Note: The engine and hoses will get hot so be sure to wear gloves and keep your hands clear of the belts and fans.

EDIT: Due to VBulletin changes the original procedure was lost. Post #67 on page 2 contains the bleeding procedure.
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Last edited by GSBoek; 06-24-2011 at 08:53 AM..
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:29 AM   #2
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Oh - if anyone else has some other techniques that have worked exceptionally well for them feel free to chime in! The more info in one thread the better.
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Old 10-31-2005, 10:25 AM   #3
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are you sure they are premixed??? It said on the container that you have to mix with water at least 50/50 and maximum of 65/35 of coolant to water.... just checking!!!
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Old 10-31-2005, 11:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTSunami
are you sure they are premixed??? It said on the container that you have to mix with water at least 50/50 and maximum of 65/35 of coolant to water.... just checking!!!
There are two types of Toyota Coolant, LLC and SLLC. The LLC is the deep red stuff which is NOT premix. The light pink stuff is the SLLC and I have only seen it premixed but I don't know for sure that it doesn't come unmixed - it might come both ways.
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Old 10-31-2005, 11:38 AM   #5
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great write-up

thanx boosted
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Old 10-31-2005, 12:16 PM   #6
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This should get a sticky! Because many people ask this question. Even I did a long time ago when I changed out my throttle body. With that new throttle body coming out many people are going to ask this question!
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Old 10-31-2005, 05:29 PM   #7
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is there any place online i can order the toyota SLLC Coolant? oh yeah and how much do i need?

Last edited by earlleeah; 10-31-2005 at 05:49 PM..
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Old 10-31-2005, 05:48 PM   #8
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GREAT INFO!! imma try it when i put my motor back together..
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Old 11-01-2005, 12:52 AM   #9
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Nice writeup... BTW Damn you for going to TX
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earlleeah
is there any place online i can order the toyota SLLC Coolant? oh yeah and how much do i need?
Only from Toyota and 2 Gallons is plenty
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:18 AM   #11
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Isn't this the same type of instruction underneath the factory hood. Where it tells you what you need to do when you do a coolant flush???
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:26 AM   #12
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I just filled my collant last night from having the engine completely out. I had the front end up on jackstands to do the work. I filled the coolant with the front end still up and it made a huge difference. I was able to get everything to drain in and bleed with no fuss.
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:26 AM   #13
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Oh, and I'm moving this to Repair & Maintenance and sticking it.
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Old 11-19-2005, 07:42 PM   #14
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Heater bleeding

Sounds a lot like bleeding an old Fiat I used to run. Aint they doing nothing better?
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Old 03-01-2006, 09:49 PM   #15
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Step 5
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Old 03-07-2006, 04:16 PM   #16
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^^ I guess thats right...get a bucket since your car will be so elevated.

Step 7..which ones are the heater hoses? newbie
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Old 04-18-2006, 01:34 PM   #17
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[QUOTE=Ch33z]Step 5
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Old 05-12-2006, 09:04 PM   #18
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Yes a little will spill - sorry if thats a problem for ya
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Old 05-18-2006, 05:44 AM   #19
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Can the air bubbles in the system explain the following symptom in my car? After a couple miles of driving the temperature gauge shoots to the H level and starts flashing, I go under the hood and check all hoses they all are normal temperature, the fan works normal and the engine isn't hot. I shut it off and restart and the gauge goes to the normal position. At other times it does the same again and then a few seconds later the gauge goes back to normal. My thermostat is brand new so I don't think it's at fault. If not air, could it otherwise be a faulty temperature sensor?
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Old 06-13-2006, 12:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBoek
Can the air bubbles in the system explain the following symptom in my car? After a couple miles of driving the temperature gauge shoots to the H level and starts flashing, I go under the hood and check all hoses they all are normal temperature, the fan works normal and the engine isn't hot. I shut it off and restart and the gauge goes to the normal position. At other times it does the same again and then a few seconds later the gauge goes back to normal. My thermostat is brand new so I don't think it's at fault. If not air, could it otherwise be a faulty temperature sensor?
sounds more like a short or loose connection in the wiring
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Old 08-30-2006, 12:45 PM   #21
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Heres a picture of how Toyota says to hang the resevoir.
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:41 AM   #22
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Where is the drain plug? pix would be great.
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:09 PM   #23
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i have the same problem. any solutions?

After a couple miles of driving the temperature gauge shoots to the H level and starts flashing, I go under the hood and check all hoses they all are normal temperature, the fan works normal and the engine isn't hot. I shut it off and restart and the gauge goes to the normal position. At other times it does the same again and then a few seconds later the gauge goes back to normal.
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stryder205
i have the same problem. any solutions?

After a couple miles of driving the temperature gauge shoots to the H level and starts flashing, I go under the hood and check all hoses they all are normal temperature, the fan works normal and the engine isn't hot. I shut it off and restart and the gauge goes to the normal position. At other times it does the same again and then a few seconds later the gauge goes back to normal.
You problem have some air in the system..
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:42 PM   #25
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So air in the coolant hoses? If I took this to a mechanic shop and told them that my temp. gauge does that, would they know to flush the coolant and remove air? And is a mechanic's vacuum able to eliminate the air similar to the procedure listed above by Boosted. Thank you.
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Old 10-14-2006, 12:04 AM   #26
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which one is the coolant hose and which 2 are the heater hoses?
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Old 10-22-2006, 01:23 PM   #27
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Nice thread boosted. One thing, how much coolant is needed for the change? Have you seen this :http://www.kinwaymotorsports.com/index.do is that worth getting, or shall i just stick to the normal pink toyota stuff. my car has only done 48k on a 2001 model, but due to various reasons, ive had to fill lots of it with water when i lost coolant and ive heard for our engines this is bad... may also explain why my fan is kicking in more than usual.
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and you are in Kaliforniastan. your only tuning option is a stand alone and you will never pass SMOG with it
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Old 10-22-2006, 01:27 PM   #28
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1 Gallon is all you need.
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Old 10-22-2006, 05:19 PM   #29
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Great write up. I'm not sure but is this true I remember doing it awhile back but forgot exactly. I know it's in the shop manual but I just want to make sure. When you are filling the coolant before it levels off during each fill you have to start the motor to let the coolant cycle correct and during this process is it normal for the motors fan to turn on?

On your step here it says:

"Step 8

Last edited by SLVR Stealth; 10-22-2006 at 05:50 PM..
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Old 10-22-2006, 05:41 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by SickCelica696
1 Gallon is all you need.
woah, thats around 4.6 litres isnt it?
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and you are in Kaliforniastan. your only tuning option is a stand alone and you will never pass SMOG with it
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:12 PM   #31
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So this write up just get rid of the air bubbles in the coolant? Isn't it neccessary to drain them first? I want to have a full flush.
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:13 PM   #32
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Open the reservoir cap and "the while bleeder" <<- what is the while bleeder?
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:20 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zheng17
Open the reservoir cap and "the while bleeder" <<- what is the while bleeder?
I believe he meant... "Open the reservoir cap while bleeding"
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Old 11-05-2006, 07:27 PM   #34
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So this write up just get rid of the air bubbles in the coolant? Isn't it neccessary to drain them first? I want to have a full flush.
anyone know?
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Old 11-08-2006, 09:31 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zheng17
Open the reservoir cap and "the while bleeder" <<- what is the while bleeder?

there is a small white bleeder plug on the top of the coolant bottle.


Quote:
Originally Posted by zheng17
anyone know?

These are directions on how to bleed air from the system not how to flush the coolant. This is what you do aster you drain the coolant. to drain it just open the petcock on the bottom drivers side of the radiator and remove the radiator cap.
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Old 11-08-2006, 09:33 AM   #36
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[QUOTE=SLVR Stealth] Great write up. I'm not sure but is this true I remember doing it awhile back but forgot exactly. I know it's in the shop manual but I just want to make sure. When you are filling the coolant before it levels off during each fill you have to start the motor to let the coolant cycle correct and during this process is it normal for the motors fan to turn on?

On your step here it says:

"Step 8
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Old 12-25-2006, 11:20 AM   #37
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After doing all that steps.. start the car (Fan wont go on), let it idle for couple mins. turn the heater on, temperature should be fine but if it shoots up to "H".. open the reservoir main cap while the car still on.. and watch the gauge. It should go back to normal, after that fan will go on. and dont forget to close the reservoir before you slam the hood. It works for me, It should work for you.
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Old 06-03-2007, 08:38 PM   #38
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this thread i about "coolant bleeding" but does anyone know how to flush the coolant[U]on a '00 GTS 2ZZGE? And when should the coolant be flushed? i live in NJ, where is very cold in winter, and very hot in summer. Also, is it vital to use toyota's coolant or can i use Prestone Coolant?
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Old 06-04-2007, 01:19 AM   #39
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Yes, use toyota coolant. You can follow the flush procedure in the PDF manuals. But, basically, there is a plastic screw directly under the right side of the radiator.

#1, remove the cap from the overflow reservoir
#2, get a 1 gal catch pan and lay down on the ground near the right of your car. (You won't need jacks for this job)
#3, unscrew the plug, and drain the radiator
#4, put a hose down the top of your reservoir, and add water for a good 5min or until the water comes out clear.
#5, use toyota coolant (yes it's different, and you have to buy it at the toyota dealership)
#6, measure 50/50 or 70/30 coolant + water, which ever you prefer depending on your situtation.
#7, dispose of the left over coolant at an auto store or recycling place.
#8, perform the coolant bleeding test as written in this forum page. (yes, jacking up the front of the car or doing it on a steep hill with the reservoir hanging as high as possible helps a lot!!!!)
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:19 PM   #40
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I'm trying to do this to my 00 Celica...all original...and I can't even get to the radiator drain plug to open it

there's what looks like a frame crossbar under the radiator that blocks me from getting the 10mm allen wrench in to loosen the plug...

...any ideas?
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Old 08-11-2007, 10:58 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoRn14
I'm trying to do this to my 00 Celica...all original...and I can't even get to the radiator drain plug to open it

there's what looks like a frame crossbar under the radiator that blocks me from getting the 10mm allen wrench in to loosen the plug...

...any ideas?
Hey...anyone with some help on this?????????? Would be greatly appreciated!!
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Old 08-11-2007, 02:39 PM   #42
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Yes, there was a frame bar.... you don't reach through the hole, but around. You can get your hand around it, and you should position the drain box just underneath that hole in the frame. The liquid would travel down that bar and exit nicely out of one place.
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Old 08-11-2007, 06:29 PM   #43
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thanks, I see all of that, but I don't see how there is enough room between the crossbar and the plug in order to unscrew it out. I can get my hand in there no problem, but I can't get any tool in there
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Old 08-20-2007, 03:04 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed7
Sounds a lot like bleeding an old Fiat I used to run. Aint they doing nothing better?
Many of the Renault's were the same way. Had to hang the coolant bottle from the hood, open the bleeder screws in the cooling system and rev the engine untill all of the bubbles stoped comming into the bottle.
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Old 11-05-2007, 06:00 AM   #45
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I just flushed my coolant this weekend w/the help of this procedure.

Few things I'd like to add regarding this procedure:

Warm your car up before doing any of the above! I made the mistake of draining the coolant before the thermostat popped open, thus all of the dirty coolant in the engine stayed & contaminated the clean coolant I put in. I assumed my thermo opened but it turns out it wasn't warm enough yet (even tho the temp gauge read halfway).

As far as bleeding goes, let the car idle for ~15 minutes WITH THE CAPS CLOSED. When you come back to the car the bottle should be close to empty & when you pop the bleed valve off it should release some vaccuum. Fill the bottle up a little above the "Full" and squish the driver-side radiator hose.

After you do this, proceed to idling the car w/the heater on max. WHen I returned to my car the coolant level didn't go down at all.
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:36 AM   #46
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so then how would you go about doing a flush and fill? step by step please
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Old 01-23-2008, 01:01 AM   #47
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so then how would you go about doing a flush and fill? step by step please
Drain it then fill it up again.
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Old 02-13-2008, 04:18 PM   #48
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The newcelica forum saves the day once again!!!

Yesterday, in 20 degree weather and sleet, i noticed my car was overheating. Well, first i noticed the heat wasnt working, and i knew... watch that thermostat. Sure enough, it maxed out and started flashing. I had to pull over 4 times on the way home to let it cool. I got home, read this thread, went to toyota, bought the good ****, and did this whole proceedure... i massaged the tubing between the engine and the radiator, and sure enough it was bubbling like a violently destroyed a**hole. once the juices started flowin, the heat started comin and we were good to go baby!

THANK YOU!!! LONG LIVE ONE OF THE GREATEST CARS EVER MADE!!!!
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Old 07-29-2008, 05:42 PM   #49
Celicasaur
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I just did this.

I did it like, open bleeder valve, squish hoses until hot coolant would come out without any bubbles. To top up, i closed the bleeder valve, then opened the filler cap - then repeated the process.

My coolant still dropped though after a 50 mile drive...is it normal to have to do this a few times? Also how important is it to have the car jacked up at an angle and have the resevoir hanging over the front bumper?
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Celicasaur wishlist for 2014:
DDPR manifold
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Goals for 2014:
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Originally Posted by Smaay View Post
and you are in Kaliforniastan. your only tuning option is a stand alone and you will never pass SMOG with it
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:51 PM   #50
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just did process after motor was overheating and it worked. great write up!
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