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Old 09-29-2008, 05:28 AM   #51
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Hi Gents, I am in the middle of this problem also. I have a 2001 GTS.

This was the story before I replaced the thermostat:

After about 1 mile from a cold start, the dial flashes onto overheat, the heater still runs cold. Dial flashed overheat for about 30 seconds and then returns to normal temp. this happens maybe 2 or three time over the next mile and then the problem doesnt come back until the car is switched off and goes cold again.

On motorways/faster speeds there was no problem with overheating, but still no actual heating coming through to the cab.

Present day

I had my thermostat replaced last week and the heating started to work again.

Since then I noticed that although the heating does get hot now, but if I run it for a while on full blast it actually returns to cold, this should not happen on a running engine.

When I lift the hood and listen to the engine tick over (AFTER OVERHEATING), about every ten seconds I hear a feint 'sucking' sound.

The car now only overheats if I travel more than about 20 miles. And now I cant risk taking it on the motorway (I did once and had to get towed)

I have spent quite a bit of money on this problem but since it is not blatantly ovbious what's wrong I find my mechanic fiddling about with things and thinking it is fixed when it is not.

Does this sound simply like air in the system? I really hope it is!

Unfortunately I am thinking of getting rid of the car (due to problems and baby on way) but if I knew that it was fixed I would feel more comfortable about selling privately.
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:15 AM   #52
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Air in the system is causing the overheating, but more than anything the key issue here is an airleak of some sort, allowing air back into the system.

I'd get that thermostat installation checked over again. Could be either put in the wrong way around or not sealed in properly.
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:54 AM   #53
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Ok, if I try the bleed procedure above first might this help in some way?

I know I have tried to raise the coolant bottle before but there was not enough slack in the hoses to raise it more than a couple of inches.

If there was a leak in the system wouldnt this cause coolant to escape as well as let air in?

Thanks for your help.
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Old 09-30-2008, 03:18 AM   #54
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raise it, and lift the front end of your car up too. If you can, find a hill somewhere in your city where you can have an sharp incline (which is better than lifting the front end of your car) and you'll see better results after massaging the coolant tube.
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Old 09-30-2008, 10:15 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockstock666 View Post
Ok, if I try the bleed procedure above first might this help in some way?

I know I have tried to raise the coolant bottle before but there was not enough slack in the hoses to raise it more than a couple of inches.

If there was a leak in the system wouldnt this cause coolant to escape as well as let air in?

Thanks for your help.
Yes, by all means, try bleeding the air out. It's normal to only be able to raise it up a few inches as that seems a UK thing for some reason...a nice guy on here posted a pic of his car raised while doing the bleeding procedure and his coolant bottle went all the way to the top of the hood!!

Thing is, if you get air back into it, then there must be an air-leak of some sort somewhere down the line. Coolant normally does escape if you've got a physical leak, so have a good thorough look under the car to see for any clues as to where it might be coming from.
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Old 10-01-2008, 06:41 AM   #56
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Thanks for the responses.

There are plenty of steep hills near me so I'll drive round one weekend when I'm up to temp and park on a steep hill and massage the hoses.

I will check for leaks too, although the number of times it's been in the garage recently I would of thought they would of spotted if there was a blatant coolant leak, and I dont see any signs of leaking in my parking space.

I'll let you know how it goes anyway.
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Old 02-02-2009, 01:00 AM   #57
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are there any photos to these instructions?
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:09 AM   #58
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Do I have to bleed/flush the system when adding new coolant? What happens if I just add more with out getting rid of the old stuff?
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:30 PM   #59
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Thank you for a great guide!

Thank you for a great guide!

I took a few photos while bleeding my cooling system. Which I have posted below.


Engine bay, all covers in place.


With passenger side(US) cover removed.


Cover retainers Torx but can be just pulled.


Coolant reservoir.


Both covers removed,hoses unclipped, reservior suspended.


Work in progress, bubbles rising.


The hoses

I *cough* downloaded the shop manuals...
The Toyota manual,talking about refilling the system, says this:
"HINT:
When the level can not be lowered before the supply of the 3.7
liters coolant, squeeze the radiator lower hose several times
while blocking the hole in the bleeder plug with a finger, and
surely supply the coolant."


I assume the lower hose is the Passenger(US) side hose shown above.

Last edited by Robin Taylor; 09-10-2009 at 06:37 PM.. Reason: pictures didn't show up!
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Old 12-02-2009, 09:33 PM   #60
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antifreeze change

I have a serious problem..
I drained all the antifreeze..
and when I overflow it .... that tube in the picture sucks the antifreeze into the spark plugs which is weird... I had to clean them so the car will start..can anyone help me??
I have a 2000 celica gt

Last edited by mOy; 12-02-2009 at 09:36 PM.. Reason: picture
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Old 12-02-2009, 09:45 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mOy View Post
I have a serious problem..
I drained all the antifreeze..
and when I overflow it .... that tube in the picture sucks the antifreeze into the spark plugs which is weird... I had to clean them so the car will start..can anyone help me??
I have a 2000 celica gt
Who the heck hooked up you're hoses! Thats suppose to be a short stubby one that ends right there. You might want to fix all you're hoses right away.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:40 AM   #62
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X2 That is the overflow hose, it's just a short hose for when the reservoir overflows to dump the coolant outside. From the reservoir it is not supposed to be hooked up to anything. How exactly does that tube suck coolant into the sparkplugs, that's impossible. I think you have other hoses hooked incorrectly and are going into the intake manifold instead of going to the idle advance control valve.
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:30 PM   #63
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Hi Everyone,

You're going to have to excuse me for some noob questions here. My GF's celica does not blow heat anymore. The car runs and drives fine, engine temp at 1 bar below the middle of the guage. No overheating, coolant is halfway up the overflow bottle.

Judging by what I know, I'm assuming the issue is one of the following:
- heater core is clogged
- thermostat is stuck partially open, allowing the car to warm up but not enough to blow heat?
- air bubbles in the system?

I only briefly glanced under the hood of her car. Is there no radiator cap on these cars? Is there only the reservoir cap and bleeder on the overflow tank?

I noticed in the write up it says to fill the reservoir all the way to the top. Why is this the case? Is this just a suggestion or will you induce more air into the system by not filling it all the way? How full is the overflow tank supposed to be on these cars normally? And lastly, where do the two hoses on the top of the overflow tank lead to? (NOT THE ONE THAT IS JUST A DUMP TUBE, the other two)

In most cars I've owned, there is a radiator fill cap on the radiator or on a hose nearby, and you can just drive the car around and let it run, then continue topping off the fill cap to eliminate air...so I'm not too experienced with bleeding the system this way. Any answers/insights would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:32 PM   #64
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question. what did i just unscrew and why cant i put it back in..

Last edited by malpo; 01-04-2010 at 05:19 PM..
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:56 PM   #65
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Isn't that the A/C condenser?
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:13 PM   #66
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BUMP. This worked excellent for me, and is also quicker than leaving it on flat ground. Thanks, OP!
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:41 AM   #67
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Celica GTS 2000-2006 Coolant replacement procedure

Celica GTS radiator flush, Coolant drain, air burping

Materials: 1 Gallon Toyota red Long life Coolant, 2 gallons distilled water

Tools: Bright spot light, Fiber video camera, 10 mm socket wrench, vice grip, pliers, trash bag, coolant pan, rubber gloves

This is a critical procedure, doable but far more critical and difficult than the oil change. If you bungle it, the engine may overheat and crack. Toyota recommends this procedure every 50K miles and performed by authorized dealer.

You should do it step by step carefully while checking for leaks. After doing it a few times you will understand how the cooling system works, and can spot any problems.

Unlike older cars, the Celica has a closed radiator similar to BMW and MBZ. Coolant must fill the engine block first then flow over to the radiator via the upper 2-inch hose. Engine when hot will open the thermostat to send about half a quart of coolant from the radiator into engine block for cooling, while burping air from the top of radiator out to the reservoir. This half quart of coolant needs to be added back to the reservoir before air bleeding.

If you want to do it yourself, there is a label under the hood, with instructions and a sketch of the coolant reservoir and hoses to help you do it, but the instructions lack details. Follow it to the T to be safe, or you may risk overheating the engine.

There are 4 main simple steps: draining, refilling, blowing air out and burping:

A. Drain the coolant out of the radiator and engine block, then close all hoses and valves
B. From the reservoir feed about 1 gallon coolant into engine block and radiator.
C. Idle engine until it turns on fan and pumps coolant from radiator into block and blows air out from radiator to reservoir. Let the fan cycle on /off a few times to blow out air.
D. Close reservoir, rev to 3K RPM every 5 seconds to burp the smaller air pockets.

Below is a detailed step by step procedure.

1. Replace coolant when engine is cold or you may get burns. Need up to about 2.3 gallons of total coolant and distilled water mix. Best to use Toyota red Long Life Coolant diluted in half with distilled water.

2. Park the car on a level spot. Put xmission in PARK, set hand BRAKE, HEATER ON HIGH, chock the rear wheels carefully.

3. Remove the plastic engine bay cover on passenger side to expose the white grapefruit-sized coolant reservoir on top of the radiator.

4. Before doing any work, CHECK LEAKS using SPOT LIGHT and FIBER CAMERA. Look for red traces on floor, bottom cover, hoses and clamps, radiator's bottom edges, air burping nipple on radiator's top driver side under the air box. If any red residue, find out where it leaks from and fix it. Squeeze and check all hoses and connections for leaks, cracks. This is the easiest and cheapest time to fix potentially big, expensive problems on the road.

5. On top of the reservoir, open the 2 clamps and remove the 2 quarter-inch rubber hoses. Be gentle, dont pull the air bleed hose as it's connected to a plastic nipple on the radiator's top, which can break.

6. Remove the 10 mm bolt on top of the reservoir, raise it about 6 inches and insert it on the hood's hook using the slot on its bottom. The reservoir's bottom should now be slightly higher than the top of the head, a few inches higher than the engine block and the radiator's top to feed coolant into all of them. Remove the reservoir cap and the white plastic butterfly air bleed valve on the reservoir.

7. Place an open trash bag under the radiator outlet on passenger side to catch coolant. Position a pan under the car to collect any spills.

8. I WOULD AVOID Toyota's 2 recommended drains; the butterfly valve at the radiator's bottom on driver side, and the engine block drain under exhaust manifold. These 2 drains are very difficult to access.

Instead the 2-inch exit hose at the radiator's bottom, on passenger side, is easier to access and open. Clean around hose and radiator bottom. Use a vice grip or a pair of pliers, hold open the clamp and pull this hose out to drain coolant out of the radiator's bottom into the trash bag.

9. When coolant stops draining, clean the hose and area on radiator, reassemble the 2-inch hose back to the radiator. Remove the coolant-filled trash bag or pinch a hole on it and let it drain into the pan under the engine bay.

If elect to open and replace the thermostat, use 10 mm socket with universal joint to open 2 nut plates behind the alternator. You dotn need to remove the radiator and the belt, which is a lot of work. Wiggle the dome cap out and remove the thermostat. Only about half quart will drain out out of here. When put back, thermostat must be flat with the bleed hole on top.

10. There is another 8 mm drain bolt under the engine block, in front of the exhaust manifold, to drain engine block, but the car would have to be raised about 12 inches on solid stands. If you drain the engine block, the system will need to be refilled with total 2.3 gallons of coolant, including about half a quart in the heater core.

11. I would skip the flushing with chemicals since it's too complicated, time consuming and can leave residues in the cooling system. If needed, flushing should be left to a dealer. Optionally you may want to do steps 12,13 and 14 below to flush with just distilled water. Close the system up, fill the cooling system with distilled water, run the engine to normal operating temperature to turn on fan and water pump to circulate the water into the block and radiator, turn off the engine, dump the water out for extra cleaning without air burping, before refilling with new coolant and air burping.

There should be about 1 gallon of distilled water remaining in the system so you could add undiluted coolant to achieve 50% dilution.

12. After closing up all hoses, with reservoir's cap and air bleed valve open, start adding about 3.7 liters or 3.5 quarts of coolant (about 7/8 of a gallon) into the reservoir up to its FULL line. Coolant should flow through the bottom hose into the engine block, taking about 10 to 15 minutes. Let coolant flow in and keep adding as level in the reservoir goes down.

Coolant will fill engine block first, then flow through the upper 2-inch hose into the radiator. When radiator is full, coolant will seep out of the air bleed hose. Use the spot light and fiber camera, insert it into crevices and inspect carefully the floor, top and bottom of radiator, under the air box and around all coolant hoses for clues of leaks. If there are leaks, stop, check for causes carefully and repair/replace any faulty parts before continuing. Any leaks are much easier and cheaper to fix now than loss of coolant at high speed which may burn the engine.

System is full when the coolant starts dripping out of the 1/4 inch AIR BLEED HOSE on top of the radiator, next to the reservoir, and/or when coolant level in the reservoir stops going down. Stop adding coolant to reservoir.

13. Lower and assemble the reservoir in its place. Reassemble the two 1/4 inch hoses (2 hoses) on the right of reservoir and secure their clamps. Check for leaks on all hoses, connections, bottom of engine bay and the floor.

14. With A/C OFF, HEATER OFF, start and IDLE engine until COOLING FAN starts BLOWING, then wait for FAN to STOP. Let fan cycle on /off a few times. Hot air and some coolant should be blowing out of the AIR BLEED hose into the reservoir. Most of the air is blown out of radiator in this step. It takes about 15 to 20 minutes for fan to start. You can speed it up by closing the hood to keep engine hot.

When engine gets hot to normal operating temperature (mid range on indicator), it will open the thermostat and pump about half quart of coolant from the radiator into the engine block for cooling. Watch the ENGINE TEMPERATURE indicator at all time. If OVERHEAT shut down immediately and troubleshoot. Wait about 5 minute for engine to cool down before restarting.

If the system was filled properly, the fan should cycle on and off every few minutes to cool and pump coolant into engine block. After 10 to 15 minutes the air bleed hole should spray out some coolant and burp out some hot air. This means the burping is near completion as most of the air on top of the radiator has been blown out, and the radiator is blowing some coolant out with the hot air. Turn on and check the HEATER, if it's not blowing hot air then coolant is not circulating into heater, or leaks cause coolant to drain off heater or engine block. Trouble shoot and find the leaks.

15. Add coolant to FULL level in reservoir. The cooling system is supposed to be full with about 2.3 gallon of coolant max, depending how much you drained from the engine block, including what's in the reservoir. If not then there is a leak or overfilling. Do not leave reservoir empty as the engine will suck in air and requires more burping.

16. Close reservoir's CAP and BLEED VALVE. Turn heater off to stress the cooling system, rev the engine INTERMITTENTLY to 3000 RPM FOR 5 sec then IDLE for 5 sec ( for about 15 - 30 minutes ) to burp the rest of the small air pockets out of radiator into the closed reservoir. Watch the engine temp gauge. If temperature gets high or near the red zone, turn off engine to let large hot air bubbles go past the temp sensor, then restart in about 1 minute.

The remaining air bubbles will go pass the temp sensor in the system to burp out and will sometimes cause overheat spike. If temp goes back to normal within 1 to 2 minutes, then the air bubbles are small. If it still overheat after 5 minutes then the hot air bubble is very large, or coolant may have leaked out of engine, leaving it dry, or the cooling system may have other problems. This step should burp out most of the air, but there may be still some small bubbles which will be burped out into the reservoir as you drive.

17. Wait for engine to cool down, check coolant level. Check ONLY WHEN ENGINE IS COOL. Coolant level should be between LOW and FULL or something may be leaking, or there are AIR BUBBLES still in cooling system. Check and fix any leaks under engine, under the air box and on all coolant hoses. Add coolant to FULL level if low.

Drive the car in the next few days with a gallon of coolant / distilled water while monitoring and ADDING COOLANT if LOW. If ENGINE TEMPERATURE goes into HIGH LEVEL turn off engine and restart in 5 minutes.

Reassemble the top engine cover.

Note 1: A quick spike of high temp into the red zone is likely a large hot air bubble moving past the temp sensor. To be safe turn off engine and wait 1 minutes. When restart temp should come back down to normal after 1 minute.

Note 2: If you still have overheating problem, depending on severity, you can drive the car without stressing the engine and watch engine temp, coolant levels and check for leaks on the floor, radiator and coolant hoses.

If engine temp stays higher than mid range, the coolant line may be blocked somewhere. Engines filled with hard tap water usually have calcium deposits that will calcify and restrict or block the flow. You may trouble shoot and perhaps drain the coolant out again and try to clear the blockages with just distilled water and calcium dissolving chemicals. If still overheat perhaps call a tow truck and head for the dealer.

I have done this procedure 5 or 6 times without problems. It's simple and straight forward. Engine will get up to normal temp fairly quickly and coolant level is always as expected.

Note 3: The butterfly drain valve at bottom of radiator, driver side, drains coolant out of the bottom via a 1/4 inch hose. There are 2 ways to access this valve to but both are very difficult.

From the bottom you have to stick your fingers into the U channel, which the radiator sits in, and try to push open or close the butterfly valve. Perhaps a slotted tool that fits over the butterfly would make it easier to turn.

From the top you would have to take out the air box with lots of vacuum hoses and connectors, in a very tight space. It may take a few hours for removing and reassembling, risking damaging or forgetting hoses, wires.

Note 4: The air bleed hose is hooked into the radiator's plastic top via a molded-in 1/4 inch plastic nipple (black ABS) that may be easily broken or weakened, especially on old radiators. Try not to pull the hose or knock on the nipple too hard. Check for leaks from this nipple under the air box.

If broken, there are various repair nipples in eBay (mostly for BMW and MBZ). I bought a plastic nipple from Ace Hardware, enlarged the hole on radiator slightly with a drill bit for a snug fit, hammered the nipple in and seal the joint generously with 2-part epoxy. Cured epoxy is supposed to be stronger than ABS plastic. Try to flush out any plastic debris from radiator.

Brass nipples with threads are also available but brass expands less than ABS plastic and may cause leaks in time.

If this nipple leaks again, it may be prudent just to put in a new radiator. After market Aluminum-top radiators sell in eBay for about $100 to $200. Toyota's plastic-top radiator sells for $400 retail. Koyorad supposedly supplies OEM radiator to Toyota. You can buy a Koyorad's all aluminum rad on eBay for about $150.

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 06-23-2016 at 11:08 PM..
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:08 PM   #68
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Celica GTS radiator

It's a sealed radiator with no cap. Coolant is fed into the overflow reservoir, draining down the black half-inch hose at the bottom into the engine block. When engine block is full it will overflow via the 2-inch upper hose into the radiator.

When the engine runs hot, it opens the thermostat and turn on water pump and the fan on and off to pump coolant from the radiator into engine block for cooling. If you just filled the engine block with coolant, this step should push most of the air from engine block to the top of the radiator, and out of the 1/4 inch air bleed hose that plug into the reservoir.

When coolant start coming out of this hose, it means coolant fills the radiator to the top. Only a few small air pockets in the block need to be burped out. Lower the reservoir and bolt it down in its normal place and close the cap. Plug the 2 x 1/4 inch bleed hoses into it and burp out the small air pocket by ramming the engine to 3000 RPM every 5 seconds from idle. Small air pockets will bleed out into the closed reservoir. You should see small air bubbles going into small air bleed chamber until it's full with coolant. Then all air has been bled out of the engine and radiator.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitesupra94 View Post
Hi Everyone,

You're going to have to excuse me for some noob questions here. My GF's celica does not blow heat anymore. The car runs and drives fine, engine temp at 1 bar below the middle of the guage. No overheating, coolant is halfway up the overflow bottle.

Judging by what I know, I'm assuming the issue is one of the following:
- heater core is clogged
- thermostat is stuck partially open, allowing the car to warm up but not enough to blow heat?
- air bubbles in the system?

I only briefly glanced under the hood of her car. Is there no radiator cap on these cars? Is there only the reservoir cap and bleeder on the overflow tank?

I noticed in the write up it says to fill the reservoir all the way to the top. Why is this the case? Is this just a suggestion or will you induce more air into the system by not filling it all the way? How full is the overflow tank supposed to be on these cars normally? And lastly, where do the two hoses on the top of the overflow tank lead to? (NOT THE ONE THAT IS JUST A DUMP TUBE, the other two)

In most cars I've owned, there is a radiator fill cap on the radiator or on a hose nearby, and you can just drive the car around and let it run, then continue topping off the fill cap to eliminate air...so I'm not too experienced with bleeding the system this way. Any answers/insights would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 07-03-2016 at 10:33 AM..
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:37 PM   #69
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Nice write up there, buddy ^^^

I'll give my method as it seems pretty fool-proof to me. It might be a little 'dangerous', so take this with a pinch of salt and this is worth about as much as you're paying for it, ie, nothing. It's very ghetto and messy, but it tends to get rid of all air bubbles within a few minutes and I don't need to jack the front of the car up.

I get a long (approx 1ft) rubber hose and attatch it to the overflow bottle in place of the little black L-shaped one hose. I pour coolant into the reservoir. Both the black cap and the white bleeder valve are closed. I blow the black tube (lol, yes this could end up being somebody's forum sig!) and I watch the fluid level drop. When the level drops just above the outlet of the lowest hose, then fill the reservoir and repeat. After each process, cover the long hose with your finger and open the bleeder cap till it shoots a little bit of air out, then repeat the process. When the rad is filled and you can't get any more fluid 'blown' inside, start the engine and leave the little bleeder cap open.

As the engine gets hot and the fans kick in, you'll see the bubbles flow out and the coolant will overflow out like a volcano. When it kicks in like VTEC and jumps out a little, the worst of the air is out. Keep an eye on the reservoir and be very careful when topping it back up as the coolant will be hot and ready to pounce out.
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Old 06-23-2010, 06:03 AM   #70
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Bleeding air from the cooling system

The 90 deg black hose you mentioned is just a drain hose for excess coolant from the reservoir.

If you blow on it, you will add pressure to the reservoir to push coolant into the engine block. But coolant would naturally flow into the engine block by gravity. I dont understand how blowing into it would get rid of air bubbles in the cooling system. The coolant is highly poisonous. Make sure you dont ingest any of it!

As you run the engine, any air bubbles trapped inside the engine block would be driven out to the radiator and escape into the reservoir. You really dont need to blow into it.

BTW, you can reach under the car to access and open the radiator's butterfly drain plug without jacking up the front of the car? To access this plug from the top of the engine bay, you would have to remove the air box and a few other parts, fairly risky, may take a few hours, break or forget a few hoses or connectors.

Good luck.

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Old 06-26-2010, 01:35 PM   #71
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Draining coolant from engine block

There is another bolt at the bottom and back of the engine block, which let you drain coolant from the engine block.

You really should have the car on solid stands to remove this bolt. I suggest that it's not absolutely necessary to completely drain the old coolant from the engine block, as there is still fluid inside the heater core.

By draining the radiator, you would get most of the old coolant out, like close to a gallon. Adding new coolant in recommended intervals would remove or dilute most of contaminants and any corrosive chemicals left inside the cooling system.

The most important thing is NEVER USE TAP WATER in the cooling system, as calcium and other minerals will calcify in the heat and within 1 to 2 years will block the tubes inside the engine and the radiator, causing engine overheating that could crack the engine in many places, making it irreparable.

When engine overheats, first treatment should be to add flushing chemicals to cooling system then follow instructions and run the engine hot to dissolve any calcification spots.

The $5 radiator flushing treatment worked great for me in place of the $2000 repairs suggested by Toyota dealer to replace the entire cooling system.

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Old 12-18-2010, 08:42 AM   #72
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Does anyone know if the SSLC stands true for an '02 Celi? Consulted with the local Toyota dealer and they say that its not used only for 04+ models... will it hurt it? I don't trust what dealers have to say, so input would be great.

Thanks,

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Old 01-08-2011, 11:08 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Boosted2.0 View Post
sounds more like a short or loose connection in the wiring
My celica did that recently, EXACT SAME SYMPTOMS! Except I assume air got into my cooling system by means of a leaky radiator...not fun :-(
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Old 01-27-2011, 10:36 PM   #74
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is anyone else having trouble seeing the steps to do this? I have to clean my IAC and dnt wanna get done with that and find out my car starts overheating from air in the lines
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:56 PM   #75
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Don't see steps

^^ I'm with you on that, I don't see the steps from the first post. Maybe my browser? Or being a noob?!
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Old 02-26-2011, 11:55 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Celicasaur View Post
I just did this.

I did it like, open bleeder valve, squish hoses until hot coolant would come out without any bubbles. To top up, i closed the bleeder valve, then opened the filler cap - then repeated the process.

My coolant still dropped though after a 50 mile drive...is it normal to have to do this a few times? Also how important is it to have the car jacked up at an angle and have the resevoir hanging over the front bumper?
Should I do this with the car on?
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:08 PM   #77
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ok so one of my dumb friends decided to twist the bleeder valve whilie the car was off. so he said when he did it the air collent in the tube went down. So my question is how do you bleed it? and how do i measure when the coolant is low? when the car is cool or warm? also i run it for 15 minutes with the bleeder valve off of what?
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:53 PM   #78
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Coolant bleed procedure is in the maintenance guide. 20ish MB download.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:03 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by PETER PAN 2009 View Post
1. Replace coolant when engine is cold or you may get burns. Need about 1 and a half gallon of coolant. Use Toyota red LLC diluted in half with distilled water.
I bought a gallon of red LLC, do I need another or is the gallon and a half what you end up with after adding water?
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:18 PM   #80
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If coolant goes into the spark plug cavities, your engine probably has cracks from coolant lines into the cylinders.

It's impossible to fix. Best to replace with an used or rebuilt engine.

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Old 06-29-2013, 06:20 PM   #81
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Your heater core still has air blocks in it so the core does not heat up.

You need to bleed air out of the cooling system with the heater OFF to stress heat the engine block so it will heat up quickly and open the thermostat and coolant pump to pump coolant from radiator into engine block.

After bleeding all air out, turn on the heater to see if it's hot. If it does not heat up, there are still air pockets in the coolant, or there leaks or klockages preventing hot coolant to heat up the core.

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Old 06-29-2013, 06:28 PM   #82
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mix the gallon of red coolant with a gallon of DISTILLED WATER. You will have 2 gallons of coolant with 50% dilution.
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:26 PM   #83
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For dumping coolant quicker

Turn the cabin heater on to open the heater core.

It's easier and faster to open the radiator's exit hose at the bottom.

There is also an engine block's drain plug at the back, bottom, middle of the engine block, below the exhaust manifold. If you jack up the car 6 inches and crawl under, you should be able to access it. With both drains open, you will have most of the old coolant drained from the car.

The car should be raised on solid stands or block, not jacks, so it wont collapse and sits flat on your face.

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Old 05-17-2014, 08:25 PM   #84
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3 easy drains to remove engine coolant

Have the cabin heater control on the ON position.

Open the cap on top of the white plastic reservoir bottle on top of the radiator.

Position a big box with trash bag lining under the radiator then engine block to collect used coolant.

1. Open the radiator's exit hose at the bottom passenger's side. Use a vice grip or pair of pliers to hold the clamp open to move it. This will drain about 1 gallon coolant from the radiator.

2. Drain at bottom of engine block near exhaust manifold. You need to have car on lift or raise car about 12 inches on solid stands to go under engine bay to access this drain. Open the 8 mm ( or 10 mm I forgot) bolt at the bottom. This will drain everything from the engine block but it is a lot of work and may not be necessary.

These 2 drains will remove about 75 % of the coolant inside the engine block and the radiator. There is No need to access the radiator's butterfly bleed valve at the bottom of the radiator on driver side as it is too hard to access.

Replace and tighten all bolts, then Refill the system with coolant via the plastic reservoir and bleed air. Buy the RED TOYOTA 100% COOLANT then mix half and half with DISTILLED WATER. Dont use TAP WATER as mineral will eventually harden and block coolant lines.

Or you can buy premixed RED TOYOTA COOLANT, more expensive. I always have premixed coolant and 1 gallon distilled water in the garage for topping off when needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PETER PAN 2009 View Post
The radiator's butter fly bleed valve at the bottom of the radiator, driver side, is a pain in the ass to access.

It's easier and faster open a clamp on the large black rubber hose, about 2.5 inch DIA, at the bottom of the radiator, on driver side. Radiator content will dump out quick. The radiator holds about half gallon coolant only.

There is also an engine block's drain plug at the back bottom middle of the engine block. If you jack up the car 6 inches and crawl under, you should be able to access it. With both drains open, you will have most of the old coolant drained from the car.

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Old 06-02-2014, 08:03 AM   #85
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What is the part of the overflow tank under the bleeder valve supposed to look like after a normal drive? And / or when you're "done" bleeding? I've tried bleeding mine and it stays full & eventually all that seems to come out of the bleeder valve is fluid, no bubbles I can see in the neck of the valve or the fluid. But that part of my reservoir is pretty much constantly full (and sweats a tad after driving a while), and if I open the valve some after it has cooled down, it will still hiss and bubble back down a bit.
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Old 06-02-2014, 03:18 PM   #86
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That air bleeding chamber should be all coolant after proper bleeding. When running engine at normal temp, there should be no or very little air and only some coolant blown out of the air bleed hole.

All coolant should have trickled down to the reservoir below and any overflow would be dripping out of the small hose on the side of the reservoir.

Does not look like your coolant system was bled correctly.

Toyota's manual suggests turning OFF heater, draining the radiator by opening the butterfly drain valve at the bottom of the radiator on driver side via the 1 mm hose down through the bottom cover, which is a pain to get to. It's quicker to open the clamp on the 2 -inch rubber hose at the bottom of the radiator on passenger side and drain it. Also drain coolant in the engine block by raising the car and open the 8 mm bolt at the bottom of the block, under the exhaust manifold. 95% of the coolant will be drained by these 2 drains. The 5% left is probably in the heater's core.

Fill coolant into the engine block with about 7/8 gallon via the overflow reservoir. The reservoir should be unbolted, 2 x 1 mm rubber bleed hoses disconnected. raised and sit on top of the hood's hook, about the same height as the head. Stop feeding coolant into the reservoir when coolant starts trickling out of the air bleed hose, or fluid remains at full cold level in the reservoir. The radiator will need about 3/10 gall coolant more.

When block is filled, return the reservoir to its mounting place, bolt it down and connect the 2x 1 mm bleed hoses. Run the engine alternately between idle to about 3000 RPM until engine gets hot, turns on vent fan, and open the thermostat and send coolant from radiator into engine block. Wait for fan to stop. Keep reservoir filled with coolant to the full hot level. Coolant will be sucked from the reservoir into engine block and pumped into the radiator. If the reservoir is empty, air will be sucked into the block, requiring more bleeding. Add the rest of the 1/3 gal coolant into the reservoir.

Close the main cap and the butterfly valve. Run engine alternating idle to 3000 RPM every minute to bleed air out. Squeeze the radiator's 2-inch rubber hoses to help it. Air in coolant bubbles should blow from air bleed hose into reservoir. When no more air and/or coolant bubbles are blown into reservoir, cooling system is buebed of all air and bleeding is complete .

Monitor the engine temp gauge constantly. Once in a while the engine temp may shoot up to the red overheat zone. It's just a hot air pocket being driven past the temp sensor. To be safe, turn off engine , wait 5 minutes and restart. Over temp should be gone. Continue to bleed until no more air and / or coolant bubbles come out of air bleed hole. Close off butterfly bleed valve.

It's best to leave the car to cool down overnight. The engine may suck coolant down as it cools. Add coolant to cold full level in the reservoir in the morning.

You are done, but should monitor the engine temp gauge and coolant level in the reservoir in the next couple trips. Add coolant to reservoir if the level fall below the lines when engine is hot or cool. When the coolant system is bled properly the coolant level is exactly on those lines. Any excess coolant is dripped out the side.

If engine temp stays in red overheat zone, you have a very serious problem that could crack engine block. Shut off engine and check for any possible blockage of the coolant flow in both engine block and radiator.

If engine overheats, coolant lines may be blocked by calcium in hard water. You may need to clean and clear the coolant system with calcium-dissolving chemicals.

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 06-29-2016 at 02:35 PM..
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Old 06-02-2014, 04:49 PM   #87
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Yeah, I replaced the thermostat and drained from the petcock on the lower radiator before I filled. Jacked the front end of the car up, had the tank mounted on the hood latch with all hoses attached, had a friend rev with the heat on, was massaging all of the hoses as I was doing it. My level in the tank hasn't changed noticably and at no point has my car reached the last notch before overheating, be it bleeding or driving.

Seemed like bubbles and fluid came out at the beginning, but now just fluid comes out when I try. Not sure if I just need to keep doing it and keep letting fluid come out until it eventually doesn't fill up in that chamber anymore. I mean, it seems like it's making it from radiator to the block round trip fine.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:15 AM   #88
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If only coolant fluid come out of that 1/4 inch bleed hose into the chamber, then there is no more air in the system.

If coolant level in the reservoir is where it should be and engine temp is at mid point on the gauge, then the cooling system is optimum and you are done.

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Old 07-29-2014, 11:24 AM   #89
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Ended up being I still have a very small sweat coming from the radiator drain. That petcock is a royal PITA, I even made a socket out of wood with a hole through it so I could get an allen wrench on it to tighten, still not tight enough I guess. I have a replacement radiator too though.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:08 PM   #90
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You can see and turn the petcock valve from the top, by removing the top of the air box, the air filter, then the air box bottom with all related hoses all connectors.

Take a video as you take apart the air box, so you can remember where every thing goes. There are a few vacuum hoses at the bottom of the airbox that if you forget, the engine runs jerky. That airbox fits precisely into a very tight spot, but if you do enough think instead of forcing or breaking it can be removed and reassembled in about 2 to 3 hours the first time, depending on how smart and clever you are. It should be a lot quicker the second time.

Looks like the sweat may have been caused by stripped threads on the petcock. Wrap the threads with Teflon tape to seal leak, or buy a new petcock.


Quote:
Originally Posted by blizz81 View Post
Ended up being I still have a very small sweat coming from the radiator drain. That petcock is a royal PITA, I even made a socket out of wood with a hole through it so I could get an allen wrench on it to tighten, still not tight enough I guess. I have a replacement radiator too though.

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Old 06-23-2016, 09:08 AM   #91
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The broken 1/4 inch air bleed nipple.

I had a small leak from the radiator but could not find where. Finally I removed the air box, which fits precisely in a very tight spot with 6 vacuum hoses hooked up to it. It was a pain to figure out where everything goes and how they fit together. But after the first time it should be easy.

Found out the tiny 1/4 inch plastic air bleed nipple, molded as part of the ABS plastic top of the radiator, had broken clear off, bleeding out coolant. I never pulled too hard on the bleed hose, but after hundred thousands of hot and cold cycles, that joint cracked and finally broke. I could see the old crack lines which may have started years ago. But it never leaked until now.

Lucky I caught it, or it could be very damaging if broken out at high speed. It was a very stupid design not to reinforce that joint.

BMW and MBZ use the same close radiators, so they have the same nipple. Apparently a lot do break. Autozone has no repair kit. Ebay has lots of folks selling the repair nipples, made of plastic or brass, between $10 to $15.

The plastic nipple looks like a push-in with self-sealing rubber seal. It looks very loose and weak. I dont see how it can seal under pressure and high temp.

The brass nipple has threads that you are supposed to drill out a bigger hole, then smear the threads with JB Weld and screw it in, making its own threads, which probably works OK for older copper/brass or even aluminum radiators, but if used on plastic it will probably leak soon, because at high temperature plastic expands at much higher rate than brass and will stretch the JB weld joint.

So I went to the Ace hardware store nearby. They have a large inventory of screws, nuts, bolts ect... Aluminum, brass, steel and stainless-steel, in both English and Metric. The showed me 1/4 inch nipples in both brass and plastic. I bought a plastic repair nipple for $1.60, made of a very hard, clear plastic, very hard, like ABS.

Used a sharp drill bit, gouging the hole bigger by hand while trying to remove the plastic debris out of the radiator. Quicker to use a power drill, but some of the debris will fall inside. For a tight fit, I coated one end of the nipple with 2-part epoxy then hammered it in the hole. It fits great.

I coated a Teflon tape in epoxy and wrapped it around the base of the joint to make sure the joint is strong and seal properly. When cured in 24 hours, the epoxy is supposed to be harder and stronger than most thermo plastics. I gave it 2 days to cure to make sure.

The nipple works great. I put the airbox back ( dont forget all those loose hoses and connectors), drain the radiator of any possible plastic debris, filled the engine with coolant and burp air out of the radiator. I checked all hoses and the entire radiator many times with a very bright LED spot light. The video camera on flexible fiber can also reach into inaccessible crevices.

There wer no leaks. The radiator draining and burping procedure works logically and perfectly the first time, taking only about 2 hours. When you understand how the system is designed to work, and find it working logically, then you feel assured and have confidence in the system.

Anyway I think my plastic nipple glued in with epoxy is plenty strong. I would check for leaks from that area frequently every time I open the hood just to make sure it does not leak. If it does leak, I can remove the airbox fairly quickly and make the repair.

Since there are a lot of repair nipples on sale in eBay, looks like BMWs and MBZs also have a lot of broken nipples. I urge the bros to take the time to take out the airbox and inspect/repair this nipple to prevent leaks and engine damages.

Toyota dealer wants $400 for a new radiator. I told the guy I can buy after market radiator for about $100. He said the aftermarket radiator may only last 1 year then have to be replaced. I dont believe him. I no longer trust their flimsy plastic-top radiator. I used after-market radiators on other cars and they worked reliably for years.

Apparently Toyota uses KOYORAD radiator as original equipment. You can find KOYORAD all-aluminum radiator in eBay for $95. Make them sign a lifetime warranty and hold them liable if it leaks.

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Old 07-31-2016, 10:32 PM   #92
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The car should be level on tires, not jacked up on front end..

If you jack up the front end, the radiator will be higher than the head, the coolant level and air bleeding wont be accurate.


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Originally Posted by blizz81 View Post
Yeah, I replaced the thermostat and drained from the petcock on the lower radiator before I filled. Jacked the front end of the car up, had the tank mounted on the hood latch with all hoses attached, had a friend rev with the heat on, was massaging all of the hoses as I was doing it. My level in the tank hasn't changed noticably and at no point has my car reached the last notch before overheating, be it bleeding or driving.

Seemed like bubbles and fluid came out at the beginning, but now just fluid comes out when I try. Not sure if I just need to keep doing it and keep letting fluid come out until it eventually doesn't fill up in that chamber anymore. I mean, it seems like it's making it from radiator to the block round trip fine.
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