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Old 09-29-2008, 05:28 AM   #51
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Hi Gents, I am in the middle of this problem also. I have a 2001 GTS.

This was the story before I replaced the thermostat:

After about 1 mile from a cold start, the dial flashes onto overheat, the heater still runs cold. Dial flashed overheat for about 30 seconds and then returns to normal temp. this happens maybe 2 or three time over the next mile and then the problem doesnt come back until the car is switched off and goes cold again.

On motorways/faster speeds there was no problem with overheating, but still no actual heating coming through to the cab.

Present day

I had my thermostat replaced last week and the heating started to work again.

Since then I noticed that although the heating does get hot now, but if I run it for a while on full blast it actually returns to cold, this should not happen on a running engine.

When I lift the hood and listen to the engine tick over (AFTER OVERHEATING), about every ten seconds I hear a feint 'sucking' sound.

The car now only overheats if I travel more than about 20 miles. And now I cant risk taking it on the motorway (I did once and had to get towed)

I have spent quite a bit of money on this problem but since it is not blatantly ovbious what's wrong I find my mechanic fiddling about with things and thinking it is fixed when it is not.

Does this sound simply like air in the system? I really hope it is!

Unfortunately I am thinking of getting rid of the car (due to problems and baby on way) but if I knew that it was fixed I would feel more comfortable about selling privately.
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:15 AM   #52
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Air in the system is causing the overheating, but more than anything the key issue here is an airleak of some sort, allowing air back into the system.

I'd get that thermostat installation checked over again. Could be either put in the wrong way around or not sealed in properly.
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:54 AM   #53
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Ok, if I try the bleed procedure above first might this help in some way?

I know I have tried to raise the coolant bottle before but there was not enough slack in the hoses to raise it more than a couple of inches.

If there was a leak in the system wouldnt this cause coolant to escape as well as let air in?

Thanks for your help.
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Old 09-30-2008, 03:18 AM   #54
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raise it, and lift the front end of your car up too. If you can, find a hill somewhere in your city where you can have an sharp incline (which is better than lifting the front end of your car) and you'll see better results after massaging the coolant tube.
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Old 09-30-2008, 10:15 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockstock666 View Post
Ok, if I try the bleed procedure above first might this help in some way?

I know I have tried to raise the coolant bottle before but there was not enough slack in the hoses to raise it more than a couple of inches.

If there was a leak in the system wouldnt this cause coolant to escape as well as let air in?

Thanks for your help.
Yes, by all means, try bleeding the air out. It's normal to only be able to raise it up a few inches as that seems a UK thing for some reason...a nice guy on here posted a pic of his car raised while doing the bleeding procedure and his coolant bottle went all the way to the top of the hood!!

Thing is, if you get air back into it, then there must be an air-leak of some sort somewhere down the line. Coolant normally does escape if you've got a physical leak, so have a good thorough look under the car to see for any clues as to where it might be coming from.
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Old 10-01-2008, 06:41 AM   #56
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Thanks for the responses.

There are plenty of steep hills near me so I'll drive round one weekend when I'm up to temp and park on a steep hill and massage the hoses.

I will check for leaks too, although the number of times it's been in the garage recently I would of thought they would of spotted if there was a blatant coolant leak, and I dont see any signs of leaking in my parking space.

I'll let you know how it goes anyway.
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Old 02-02-2009, 01:00 AM   #57
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are there any photos to these instructions?
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:09 AM   #58
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Do I have to bleed/flush the system when adding new coolant? What happens if I just add more with out getting rid of the old stuff?
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:30 PM   #59
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Thank you for a great guide!

Thank you for a great guide!

I took a few photos while bleeding my cooling system. Which I have posted below.


Engine bay, all covers in place.


With passenger side(US) cover removed.


Cover retainers Torx but can be just pulled.


Coolant reservoir.


Both covers removed,hoses unclipped, reservior suspended.


Work in progress, bubbles rising.


The hoses

I *cough* downloaded the shop manuals...
The Toyota manual,talking about refilling the system, says this:
"HINT:
When the level can not be lowered before the supply of the 3.7
liters coolant, squeeze the radiator lower hose several times
while blocking the hole in the bleeder plug with a finger, and
surely supply the coolant."


I assume the lower hose is the Passenger(US) side hose shown above.

Last edited by Robin Taylor; 09-10-2009 at 06:37 PM.. Reason: pictures didn't show up!
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Old 12-02-2009, 09:33 PM   #60
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antifreeze change

I have a serious problem..
I drained all the antifreeze..
and when I overflow it .... that tube in the picture sucks the antifreeze into the spark plugs which is weird... I had to clean them so the car will start..can anyone help me??
I have a 2000 celica gt

Last edited by mOy; 12-02-2009 at 09:36 PM.. Reason: picture
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Old 12-02-2009, 09:45 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mOy View Post
I have a serious problem..
I drained all the antifreeze..
and when I overflow it .... that tube in the picture sucks the antifreeze into the spark plugs which is weird... I had to clean them so the car will start..can anyone help me??
I have a 2000 celica gt
Who the heck hooked up you're hoses! Thats suppose to be a short stubby one that ends right there. You might want to fix all you're hoses right away.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:40 AM   #62
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X2 That is the overflow hose, it's just a short hose for when the reservoir overflows to dump the coolant outside. From the reservoir it is not supposed to be hooked up to anything. How exactly does that tube suck coolant into the sparkplugs, that's impossible. I think you have other hoses hooked incorrectly and are going into the intake manifold instead of going to the idle advance control valve.
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:30 PM   #63
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Hi Everyone,

You're going to have to excuse me for some noob questions here. My GF's celica does not blow heat anymore. The car runs and drives fine, engine temp at 1 bar below the middle of the guage. No overheating, coolant is halfway up the overflow bottle.

Judging by what I know, I'm assuming the issue is one of the following:
- heater core is clogged
- thermostat is stuck partially open, allowing the car to warm up but not enough to blow heat?
- air bubbles in the system?

I only briefly glanced under the hood of her car. Is there no radiator cap on these cars? Is there only the reservoir cap and bleeder on the overflow tank?

I noticed in the write up it says to fill the reservoir all the way to the top. Why is this the case? Is this just a suggestion or will you induce more air into the system by not filling it all the way? How full is the overflow tank supposed to be on these cars normally? And lastly, where do the two hoses on the top of the overflow tank lead to? (NOT THE ONE THAT IS JUST A DUMP TUBE, the other two)

In most cars I've owned, there is a radiator fill cap on the radiator or on a hose nearby, and you can just drive the car around and let it run, then continue topping off the fill cap to eliminate air...so I'm not too experienced with bleeding the system this way. Any answers/insights would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:32 PM   #64
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question. what did i just unscrew and why cant i put it back in..

Last edited by malpo; 01-04-2010 at 05:19 PM..
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:56 PM   #65
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Isn't that the A/C condenser?
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:13 PM   #66
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BUMP. This worked excellent for me, and is also quicker than leaving it on flat ground. Thanks, OP!
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:41 AM   #67
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Celica GTS 2000-2006 Coolant replacement procedure

This is a very critical procedure. If you bungle it, the engine may overheat and crack. Toyota recommends this procedure every 50K miles and performed by authorized dealer only. Unlike older cars, Aluminum block engines must have coolant to fill engine block first, then run engine hot to open thermostat to fill radiator later.

If you have to do it yourself, there is a label under the hood, with instructions and a sketch of the coolant reservoir and hoses to help you do it. Follow it to the T of you may overheat the engine:

1. Replace coolant when engine is cold or you may get burns. Need about 1 and a half gallon of coolant. Use Toyota red LLC diluted in half with distilled water.

2. Drive the car front tires up a ramp about 6 in high. You can build a ramp by nailing 3 2x4 beams together. It gives clearance for you to get under the car for oil and xmission fluid change etc...

3. Put xmission in PARK, set BRAKE, chock the rear wheels carefully.

4. Remove the plastic engine bay baffle on passenger side to expose the white grapefruit-sized coolant reservoir on top of the radiator.

5. Open the 2 clamps and remove the 2 half-inch rubber hoses on the right of reservoir.

6. Remove the reservoir by removing the 10 mm bolt on top of it. Raise it about 6 inches and insert it on top of the lower hood hook using a small slot built into the reservoir's bottom . The bottom of the reservoir should now be a level with the top of the head and a few inches higher than the engine block. Remove the reservoir cap and the white plastic butterfly air bleed valve.

7. Get under the car and remove the right most large, black plastic engine cover at the bottom on driver side. Position a pan to collect coolant.

8. Partially open the white plastic butterfly radiator drain plug on the extreme right hand side of the radiator, near the bottom. The plug is in a U-shape beam that holds the bottom of the radiator. You can feel it with your finger and twist or push it, or use a pencil for leverage. Once open partially the fluid should start draining from a hole at the bottom of the radiator.

9. I would skip the flushing with chemicals since it's too complicated, time consuming and can leave residue in the cooling system. If needed, flushing should be left to a dealer.

10. When coolant stops draining, close the white butterfly drain plug at the radiator bottom.

11. Start adding about 3.7 liters or 3.5 quarts of coolant into the reservoir up to the FULL line, keep adding as coolant flows into engine block and the reservoir level goes down. Coolant should flow through the bottom hose into the engine block. Inspect the floor, the bottom of radiator and all coolant hoses for leaks. If there are leaks, stop, check for causes carefully and replace any faulty parts before continue.

12. Reinsert the half-inch hoses (2 hoses) on the right of reservoir and secure their clamps.

13. A/C OFF. Start and IDLE engine until COOLING FAN BLOWS FIRST then FAN STOPS. This is when the thermostat was open to let about half liter coolant into into the radiator for cooling. Coolant level in the engine block shuold go down by about half liter or half quart. Watch the ENGINE TEMPERATURE indicator at all time. If OVERHEAT shut down engine immediately and troubleshoot.

14. Add about half liter or half quart coolant to reservoir. The cooling system is supposed to be full with about 1 gallon of coolant, including what's the reservoir. If not then there is a leak or overfilling. Tighten CAP and BLEED VALVE on top of reservoir. DO NOT RUN ENGINE WITH CAP and BLEED VALVE OPEN as the engine will suck air in through the reservoir if it's empty.

15. For about 15 minutes or more, rev the engine INTERMITTENTLY to 3000 RPM FOR 5 sec then IDLE for 5 sec to bleed air bubble out of radiator into the reservoir. Ocasionally open the air bleed valve partially to let the air out (caution: may spray hot coolant). When there is no air bubbles blowing through the reservoir out of the air bleed valve, air is all bled out of cooling system. The air bleeding part is complete.

16. Wait for engine to cool down, check coolant level. Check ONLY WHEN ENGINE IS COOL. Coolant level should be between LOW and FULL or something may be leaking, or there is still AIR BUBBLES in cooling system. Check leaks under engine and on coolant hoses. Add coolant to FULL level if low.

17. You may want to repeat item 13 to 16 to bleed air, or make sure ENGINE TEMPERATURE indicator never goes into HIGH LEVEL and drive the car in the next few days while monitoring and ADDING COOLANT if LOW. Replace the top and bottom engine baffles.

18. Depending on severity of engine temperature and cooling problems, you can drive the car without stressing the engine and watch engine temp, coolant levels and check for leaks on the floor, radiator and coolant hoses. If severe, call a tow truck and head for the dealer.

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 06-26-2010 at 01:48 PM..
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:08 PM   #68
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Celica GTS radiator

It's a sealed radiator with no cap. Coolant is fed into the overflow reservoir, draining down the black half-inch hose at the bottom into the engine block.

When the engine runs hot, it opens the thermostat and turn on water pump to pump coolant into the radiator for cooling.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitesupra94 View Post
Hi Everyone,

You're going to have to excuse me for some noob questions here. My GF's celica does not blow heat anymore. The car runs and drives fine, engine temp at 1 bar below the middle of the guage. No overheating, coolant is halfway up the overflow bottle.

Judging by what I know, I'm assuming the issue is one of the following:
- heater core is clogged
- thermostat is stuck partially open, allowing the car to warm up but not enough to blow heat?
- air bubbles in the system?

I only briefly glanced under the hood of her car. Is there no radiator cap on these cars? Is there only the reservoir cap and bleeder on the overflow tank?

I noticed in the write up it says to fill the reservoir all the way to the top. Why is this the case? Is this just a suggestion or will you induce more air into the system by not filling it all the way? How full is the overflow tank supposed to be on these cars normally? And lastly, where do the two hoses on the top of the overflow tank lead to? (NOT THE ONE THAT IS JUST A DUMP TUBE, the other two)

In most cars I've owned, there is a radiator fill cap on the radiator or on a hose nearby, and you can just drive the car around and let it run, then continue topping off the fill cap to eliminate air...so I'm not too experienced with bleeding the system this way. Any answers/insights would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 06-26-2010 at 01:42 PM..
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:37 PM   #69
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Nice write up there, buddy ^^^

I'll give my method as it seems pretty fool-proof to me. It might be a little 'dangerous', so take this with a pinch of salt and this is worth about as much as you're paying for it, ie, nothing. It's very ghetto and messy, but it tends to get rid of all air bubbles within a few minutes and I don't need to jack the front of the car up.

I get a long (approx 1ft) rubber hose and attatch it to the overflow bottle in place of the little black L-shaped one hose. I pour coolant into the reservoir. Both the black cap and the white bleeder valve are closed. I blow the black tube (lol, yes this could end up being somebody's forum sig!) and I watch the fluid level drop. When the level drops just above the outlet of the lowest hose, then fill the reservoir and repeat. After each process, cover the long hose with your finger and open the bleeder cap till it shoots a little bit of air out, then repeat the process. When the rad is filled and you can't get any more fluid 'blown' inside, start the engine and leave the little bleeder cap open.

As the engine gets hot and the fans kick in, you'll see the bubbles flow out and the coolant will overflow out like a volcano. When it kicks in like VTEC and jumps out a little, the worst of the air is out. Keep an eye on the reservoir and be very careful when topping it back up as the coolant will be hot and ready to pounce out.
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Old 06-23-2010, 06:03 AM   #70
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Bleeding air from the cooling system

The 90 deg black hose you mentioned is just a drain hose for excess coolant from the reservoir.

If you blow on it, you will add pressure to the reservoir to push coolant into the engine block. But coolant would naturally flow into the engine block by gravity. I dont understand how blowing into it would get rid of air bubbles in the cooling system. The coolant is highly poisonous. Make sure you dont ingest any of it!

As you run the engine, any air bubbles trapped inside the engine block would be driven out to the radiator and escape into the reservoir. You really dont need to blow into it.

BTW, how do you access and open the radiator drain plug without jacking up the front of the car and get under it? To access this plug from the top of the engine bay, you would have to remove the air box and a few other parts, fairly risky and time consuming.

Good luck.
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:35 PM   #71
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Draining coolant from engine block

There is another bolt at the bottom and back of the engine block, which let you drain coolant from the engine block.

You really should have the car on a lift to remove this bolt. I suggest that it's not absolutely necessary to completely drain the old coolant from the engine block, as there is still fluid inside the heater core.

By draining the radiator, you would get most of the old coolant out, like close to a gallon. Adding new coolant in recommended intervals would remove or dilute most of contaminants and any corrosive chemicals left inside the cooling system.

The most important thing is NEVER USE TAP WATER in the cooling system, as calcium and other minerals will calcify in the heat and within 1 to 2 years block the tubes inside the engine and the radiator, causing engine overheating that could crack the engine in many places, making it irreparable.

When engine overheats, first treatment should be to add flushing chemicals to cooling system then follow instructions and run the engine hot to dissolve any calsification spots.

The $5 radiator flushing treament worked great for me in place of the $2000 repairs suggested by Toyota dealer to replace the entire cooling system.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:42 AM   #72
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Does anyone know if the SSLC stands true for an '02 Celi? Consulted with the local Toyota dealer and they say that its not used only for 04+ models... will it hurt it? I don't trust what dealers have to say, so input would be great.

Thanks,

AZgts
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:08 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0 View Post
sounds more like a short or loose connection in the wiring
My celica did that recently, EXACT SAME SYMPTOMS! Except I assume air got into my cooling system by means of a leaky radiator...not fun :-(
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Old 01-27-2011, 10:36 PM   #74
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is anyone else having trouble seeing the steps to do this? I have to clean my IAC and dnt wanna get done with that and find out my car starts overheating from air in the lines
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:56 PM   #75
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Don't see steps

^^ I'm with you on that, I don't see the steps from the first post. Maybe my browser? Or being a noob?!
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Old 02-26-2011, 11:55 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Celicasaur View Post
I just did this.

I did it like, open bleeder valve, squish hoses until hot coolant would come out without any bubbles. To top up, i closed the bleeder valve, then opened the filler cap - then repeated the process.

My coolant still dropped though after a 50 mile drive...is it normal to have to do this a few times? Also how important is it to have the car jacked up at an angle and have the resevoir hanging over the front bumper?
Should I do this with the car on?
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:08 PM   #77
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ok so one of my dumb friends decided to twist the bleeder valve whilie the car was off. so he said when he did it the air collent in the tube went down. So my question is how do you bleed it? and how do i measure when the coolant is low? when the car is cool or warm? also i run it for 15 minutes with the bleeder valve off of what?
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:53 PM   #78
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Coolant bleed procedure is in the maintenance guide. 20ish MB download.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:03 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETER PAN 2009 View Post
1. Replace coolant when engine is cold or you may get burns. Need about 1 and a half gallon of coolant. Use Toyota red LLC diluted in half with distilled water.
I bought a gallon of red LLC, do I need another or is the gallon and a half what you end up with after adding water?
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:18 PM   #80
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If coolant goes into the spark plug cavities, your engine probably has cracks from coolant lines into the cylinders.

It's impossible to fix. Best to replace with an used or rebuilt engine.

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 06-29-2013 at 06:28 PM..
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:20 PM   #81
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Your heater core still has air blocks in it.

you need to bleed air out of the cooling system with the heater turn on full heat.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:28 PM   #82
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mix the gallon of red coolant with a gallon of DISTILLED WATER. You will have 2 gallons of coolant with 50% dilution.
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:26 PM   #83
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For dumping coolant quicker

Turn the cabin heater on to open the heater core.

It's easier and faster to open the thermostat to drain out coolant from both the engine block and the radiator. The thermostat is inside a dome cap, held in place by 2 10 mm nut on 2 studs, behind the alternator. Use an universal joint extension to get to them.

After removing the dome cap, coolant from the engine block will drain out, about half gallon. To drain the radiator, you can wiggle the dome cap out from under the alternator, then stick it down low below the oil pan level. About half a gallon of coolant from the radiator will drain out this way.

There is also an engine block's drain plug at the back, bottom, middle of the engine block, below the exhaust manifold. If you jack up the car 6 inches and crawl under, you should be able to access it. With both drains open, you will have most of the old coolant drained from the car.

Make sure you leave wheels under the chassi in case the car collapse and sits flat on your face.

Instead of opening the engine block drain which is difficult to get to, you can dump most of the coolant in the engine block by crack open the thermostat cup with 2 x 10 mm nuts behind the alternator. Use an universal joint with 1 mm socket and ratchet wrench to get to them. Just loosen the 2 nuts and crack open the thermo's seal and half a gallon of coolant will pour out.

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 06-07-2014 at 10:17 AM..
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:25 PM   #84
PETER PAN 2009
 
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3 easy drains to remove engine coolant

Have the cabin heater control on the ON position.

Open the cap on top of the white plastic reservoir bottle on top of the radiator.

Position a big box with trash bag lining under the radiator then engine block to collect used coolant.

1. Open the worm screw on the 2 inch diameter black rubber hose at the bottom of the radiator. This would drain the radiator.

2. Open the thermostat housing behind the alternator. Use rachet wrench with universal joint and 10 mm socket. This will drain about 1 gallon coolant from the engine block.

3. Drain at bottom of engine block near exhaust manifold. You need to have car on lift or raise car about 12 inches on solid stands to go under engine bay to access this drain. Open the 10 mm bolt at the bottom. This will drain everything from the engine block but it is a lot of work and may not be necessary.

These 3 drains will remove about 95 % of the coolant inside the engine. There is No need to access the radiator's butterfly bleed valve at the bottom of the radiator on driver side as it is too hard to access.

Replace and tighten all bolts, then Refill the system with coolant via the plastic reservoir and bleed air. Buy the RED TOYOTA 100% COOLANT then mix with half DISTILLED WATER. Dont use TAP WATER as mineral will eventually harden then clog up and block coolant lines.

Or you can buy premixed RED TOYOTA COOLANT, more expensive. I always have premixed coolant and 1 gallon distilled water in the garage for topping off when needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PETER PAN 2009 View Post
The radiator's butter fly bleed valve at the bottom of the radiator, driver side, is a pain in the ass to access.

It's easier and faster open a clamp on the large black rubber hose, about 2.5 inch DIA, at the bottom of the radiator, on driver side. Radiator content will dump out quick. The radiator holds about half gallon coolant only.

There is also an engine block's drain plug at the back bottom middle of the engine block. If you jack up the car 6 inches and crawl under, you should be able to access it. With both drains open, you will have most of the old coolant drained from the car.

Make sure you leave wheels under the chassi in case the car collapse and sits flat on your face.

Instead of opening the engine block drain which is difficult to get to, you can dump most of the coolant in the engine block by crack open the thermostat cup with 2 x 10 mm nuts behind the alternator. Use an universal joint with 1 mm socket and ratchet wrench to get to them. Just loosen the 2 nuts and crack open the thermo's seal and half a gallon of coolant will pour out.
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:03 AM   #85
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What is the part of the overflow tank under the bleeder valve supposed to look like after a normal drive? And / or when you're "done" bleeding? I've tried bleeding mine and it stays full & eventually all that seems to come out of the bleeder valve is fluid, no bubbles I can see in the neck of the valve or the fluid. But that part of my reservoir is pretty much constantly full (and sweats a tad after driving a while), and if I open the valve some after it has cooled down, it will still hiss and bubble back down a bit.
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Old 06-02-2014, 03:18 PM   #86
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That air bleeding chamber should be all air after proper bleeding.

All coolant should have trickled down to the reservoir below and any overflow would be dipping out of the small hose on the side of the reservoir.

Does not look like your coolant system was bled correctly.

The correct way replace coolant is to drain the radiator and the block by removing the 2 x 10 mm nuts holding the thermostat. It's behind the alternator. Use universal joint to get to them. Then lower the 2-inch radiator hose to empty the radiator.

Fill coolant into the engine block with about 1.2 gallon via the overflow reservoir. The reservoir should be unbolted, raised and sit in top of the hood's hook about the same height as the head. Stop feeding coolant into the reservoir when the block seems to be full. There should be about 3/10 gall coolant left for the radiator.

When filled. put the reservoir back to its place, bolt it down. Run the engine about 2500 RPM until engine gets hot and open the thermostat. Coolant will be sucked from engine block into the radiator. Add the rest of the 1/3 gal coolant into the reservoir.

Close the main cap and open the butterfly valve and run engine alternating idle to 2500 RPM every minute to bleed air out. Squeeze the radiator's 2-inch rubber hoses to help it. Air should bubble out of the butterfly valve.

Monitor the engine temp gauge. Once in a while the engine temp may shoot up to the red zone. It's just a hot air pocket being driven past the temp sensor. To be safe, turn off engine and restart. Over temp should be gone. Continue to bleed until no more air bubbles coming out. Close off butterfly bleed valve.

You are done, but you should monitor the coolant level in the reservoir in the next couple trips and add if they fall below the lines when engine is hot or cool. When the coolant system is bled properly the coolant level is exactly on those lines. Any excess coolant is dripped out the side.

If engine temp stays in red hot zone, you have a very serious problem that could crack engine block. Shut off engine and check for any possible blockage of the coolant flow between engine block and radiator.

If engine overheats, coolant lines may be blocked by calcium in hard water. Clear the coolant system with calcium-dissolving chemicals.
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Old 06-02-2014, 04:49 PM   #87
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Yeah, I replaced the thermostat and drained from the petcock on the lower radiator before I filled. Jacked the front end of the car up, had the tank mounted on the hood latch with all hoses attached, had a friend rev with the heat on, was massaging all of the hoses as I was doing it. My level in the tank hasn't changed noticably and at no point has my car reached the last notch before overheating, be it bleeding or driving.

Seemed like bubbles and fluid came out at the beginning, but now just fluid comes out when I try. Not sure if I just need to keep doing it and keep letting fluid come out until it eventually doesn't fill up in that chamber anymore. I mean, it seems like it's making it from radiator to the block round trip fine.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:15 AM   #88
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If only coolant fluid come out of that 1/4 inch bleed hose into the chamber, then there is no more air in the system.

If coolant level in the reservoir is where it should be and engine temp is at mid point on the gauge, then You are done.
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Old 07-29-2014, 11:24 AM   #89
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Ended up being I still have a very small sweat coming from the radiator drain. That petcock is a royal PITA, I even made a socket out of wood with a hole through it so I could get an allen wrench on it to tighten, still not tight enough I guess. I have a replacement radiator too though.
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