Coolant routing

[Boosted2.0]

Just a reference thread for use by people needing to plumb feed and return lines for coolant to turbos or whatever.

The red parts in the link below are hot pressurized coolant feeds. The blue ones are areas where the coolant is returning to the water pump.

http://www.ddperformanceresearch.com...YSTEM_INFO.pdf

[Smaay]

excellent info

[Jesse IL]

Just to clarify:

The red going to the IAC is the big nipple coming off the back of the head and the blue line coming from the IAC is the line coming off the silver rail, correct? This is important for people running a coolant loop to a turbo as those are the lines you use.

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by Jesse IL

Just to clarify:

The red going to the IAC is the big nipple coming off the back of the head and the blue line coming from the IAC is the line coming off the silver rail, correct? This is important for people running a coolant loop to a turbo as those are the lines you use.

Correct - the picture makes it look like the red line to the TB might be coming off the tube, but its actually coming out of the head.

[Boosted2.0]

I'll try to remember to take pictures while I'm building Badceli's motor and post them for reference.

[Soon2beriding]

do you bleed the system after??

[Boosted2.0]

Yes...

[Jesse IL]

Was that a serious question?

[Soon2beriding]

Originally Posted by Jesse IL

Was that a serious question?

Just wanted to make sure dude...don't expect me to know everything...

[Celicasaur]

Originally Posted by Boosted2.0

I'll try to remember to take pictures while I'm building Badceli's motor and post them for reference.

still!???!!?!

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by Celicasaur

still!???!!?!

Long story - I just got the second block back from the machine shop for the third (and final) time last weekend.

[Celicasaur]

Originally Posted by Boosted2.0

Long story - I just got the second block back from the machine shop for the third (and final) time last weekend.

[rou2boost]

Thanks Boosted 2.0..I have a bunch of your threads you started in my favorites now! Keep the infor comign...still trying to figure out why my turbo keeps getting oil blow-by!?!?! RREEAALLY pissing me off-among other words to decribe it.....

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by rou2boost

Thanks Boosted 2.0..I have a bunch of your threads you started in my favorites now! Keep the infor comign...still trying to figure out why my turbo keeps getting oil blow-by!?!?! RREEAALLY pissing me off-among other words to decribe it.....

If your turbo is leaking it either has damaged seals, a restricted or poorly designed oil return line or (if its a GT series) it might have too much volume to it.

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by Celicasaur

Exactly.

First block was used MWR block. The sleeves were dropped in it, but we wanted to see if it could be saved. I gave it to a machine shop close to my house and they CLAIMED that they pressed the sleeves and that they were now fully bottomed. They decked it and cleaned it and I had it painted at Polydydn. Then I clayed it to the head with the cams and valves and when I unbolted the head the damn sleeves had dropepd again. So I talked to Eric and we would up going with the LR bombproof block. Needless to say the CNC shop took forever geting it done, then when they did send it they had forgotten to hone it or flush it so I had that done locally. Right after that there was an issue with one of the oher blocks they did in the same batch so we had to take the block back in and get it inspected. Didn't find any problems, but we had the problem one dissected and realized that there was an issue with the height that the liners were set in at and theyt just needed to be decked one more time. So yeah - thats what I just got it back from.

I painted the block, head, and associated parts this weekend. once I get my car out of the Garage I'll start building it and take some pictures.

[kortik]

nice

[Soon2beriding]

Originally Posted by Boosted2.0

Exactly.

First block was used MWR block. The sleeves were dropped in it, but we wanted to see if it could be saved. I gave it to a machine shop close to my house and they CLAIMED that they pressed the sleeves and that they were now fully bottomed. They decked it and cleaned it and I had it painted at Polydydn. Then I clayed it to the head with the cams and valves and when I unbolted the head the damn sleeves had dropepd again. So I talked to Eric and we would up going with the LR bombproof block. Needless to say the CNC shop took forever geting it done, then when they did send it they had forgotten to hone it or flush it so I had that done locally. Right after that there was an issue with one of the oher blocks they did in the same batch so we had to take the block back in and get it inspected. Didn't find any problems, but we had the problem one dissected and realized that there was an issue with the height that the liners were set in at and theyt just needed to be decked one more time. So yeah - thats what I just got it back from.

I painted the block, head, and associated parts this weekend. once I get my car out of the Garage I'll start building it and take some pictures.

The only word that i understand what your talking about is MWR block...after that i lost you...

[Celicasaur]

That's totally crazy...Eric is one deep pocketed brother to be doing all this...

I feel sorry for him though. He's been after a kick ass 2zz motor for years and dumped more money than any of us would even contemplate on our celica's, but he's had so much bad luck and never been able to see a finished product...

Goodluck with it Boosted. Hopefully you'll do him proud

[Jesse IL]

Originally Posted by Boosted2.0

Needless to say the CNC shop took forever geting it done, then when they did send it they had forgotten to hone it or flush it so I had that done locally. Right after that there was an issue with one of the oher blocks they did in the same batch so we had to take the block back in and get it inspected. Didn't find any problems, but we had the problem one dissected and realized that there was an issue with the height that the liners were set in at and theyt just needed to be decked one more time.

Wow, they did the same thing with my block, even though it was dry-sleeved. David had to send it back out to a local shop to have it final honed and the sleeves brought down to the level of the deck. That was part of the delay with mine. They also ultimately never did the valve reliefs because they couldn't figure out how to do them uniformly so that flow would be the same cylinder-to-cylinder.

Funny thing about that failure is that from my understanding, the shop was purposely leaving the deck 0.001" high. That would work on the wet sleeves, but not on the dry sleeves since you've got the whole surface to the water jacket higher on the wet sleeves. The idea was that by leaving them high, it would concentrate the clamping load right around the cylinders. Sounds great in theory but if your block is just gonna crack, then its not such a hot idea.

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by Jesse IL

Wow, they did the same thing with my block, even though it was dry-sleeved. David had to send it back out to a local shop to have it final honed and the sleeves brought down to the level of the deck. That was part of the delay with mine. They also ultimately never did the valve reliefs because they couldn't figure out how to do them uniformly so that flow would be the same cylinder-to-cylinder.

Funny thing about that failure is that from my understanding, the shop was purposely leaving the deck 0.001" high. That would work on the wet sleeves, but not on the dry sleeves since you've got the whole surface to the water jacket higher on the wet sleeves. The idea was that by leaving them high, it would concentrate the clamping load right around the cylinders. Sounds great in theory but if your block is just gonna crack, then its not such a hot idea.

exactly.

[Soon2beriding]

anybody have pics of the coolant routing??

[Jesse IL]

Just out of curiosity where is this in the service manual? I've been looking and looking and finally had to come dig up this thread. I'm going to feel really stupid when you tell me.

[Soon2beriding]

Originally Posted by Jesse IL

Just out of curiosity where is this in the service manual? I've been looking and looking and finally had to come dig up this thread. I'm going to feel really stupid when you tell me.

what are you trying to find??? the pics??

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by Jesse IL

Just out of curiosity where is this in the service manual? I've been looking and looking and finally had to come dig up this thread. I'm going to feel really stupid when you tell me.

Its in the New Car Features Guide from 2000 MY

[Jesse IL]

Originally Posted by Boosted2.0

Its in the New Car Features Guide from 2000 MY

Figures. My service manual is a 2001 and this is not in the New Car Features section.

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by Jesse IL

Figures. My service manual is a 2001 and this is not in the New Car Features section.

New Car features guide is a sepreate publication from the service manual. If you go on the TIS website and put in 2000 Celica, then choose engine for service category and hit the NCF tab below it will come up.

[Jesse IL]

The CD I have has a PDF of the service manual, wiring manual and new car features for MY 2001. I was in my garage with no internet and was banging my head trying to find the picture. if I have internet handy, TIS is great.

[Boosted2.0]

Yeah, the NCF only contains relevant information on the first year of a model run or on subsequent model years is a major systems change in made.

[Soon2beriding]

hey .....you not mod of this section anymore jesse??????

[webbyboy]

So basically i remove the the red and blue tube that goes to the IAC valve and use it to tap to the turbo?

[Soon2beriding]

Originally Posted by webbyboy

So basically i remove the the red and blue tube that goes to the IAC valve and use it to tap to the turbo?

you tap from the return line from the heater to (in) the turbo
and the (out) back the original hose connected at(closest to the engine)

[webbyboy]

Originally Posted by Soon2beriding

you tap from the return line from the heater to (in) the turbo
and the (out) back the original hose connected at(closest to the engine)

what do you mean by original hose? im a abit confused

[Soon2beriding]

here's an exemples:

[parano]

boosted where is your garfik??

[Boosted2.0]

My old file hosting service is Kaput and all my old pics went with it.

[parano]

dawm

[Boosted2.0]

Thread updated with new link.

[Shizuma]

This should be stickied somewhere...

[Boosted2.0]

Good point. Done. Mind you it is also stickied in the tech info section on my website.

[Smaay]

Dave your diagram is a little wrong. the HOT pressurized to the coolant bottle on the front of the block is actually plugged. on a new block there is no tube sticking out like here. All of the other points are correct.

This is how it should be





on the old block they are capped off like here



this is all covered in my new shortblock sticky

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=335906

[Boosted2.0]

You're right - I shall fix it ASAP.

[kortik]

that engine is from a 2003 vibe gt.

so what year 2zz models came capped? 2004+?

[Smaay]

Originally Posted by kortik

that engine is from a 2003 vibe gt.

so what year 2zz models came capped? 2004+?

um no, i pulled this right out of a 2000 celica GTS

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by kortik

that engine is from a 2003 vibe gt.

so what year 2zz models came capped? 2004+?

All the Celicas are capped. And that block isn't from the Vibe GT remember - that one had badly out of round and tapered cylinders - this block is the one from a Celica GTS I had in stock. I didn't charge you for it since my machine shop messed up your block when attempting to sleeve it to repair the worn cylinders.

[kortik]

my bad, I didn't think before typing