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Old 08-22-2011, 06:47 PM   #1
Smaay
 
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How to change your clutch and flywheel (Smaay Way)

Begin with removing the engine plastics. They are held in with push tabs. Push in the middle and the tab pops out.




Jack the front of the car up as high as you can and put jack stands under to support it


Remove the battery, its secured by (2) 10mm nuts and a bracket. Remove the bracket and loosen the terminals. They are also 10mm nuts.


Remove the under engine plastics. They are held on by 10mm bolts and nuts. Some of them are in the wheel well. Just look around and you will see where they need to come out.




Remove both wheels.




Drain the transmission fluid. The drain plug is a 24mm bolt head.


Ok this is a tough part, using a pointed punch, you have to remove this factory indent on the axle nut. If you don’t do it good enough you WILL destroy the threads of the axle. Older gen celicas used a castle nut and cotter pin which IMO is better. But Toyota didn’t listen to my recommendation and went this route.




Here you can see the indent taken out.




Remove the brake calipers. They are held in by 14mm bolts on the back side. Once you get the bolts out, lift out the calipers and set the brake pads aside.


Remove the ABS sensor, its secured by a 10mm bolt.




Remove the (2) 19mm bolts securing the hub to the suspension. Leave 1 bolt in to keep the hub pn place for the next step.




This car came from New Jersey so it had quite a bit of rust and corrosion on it. The axle was seized up in the hub. Give it a good smack with a dead blow hammer and it should work loose.


Watch my video here for how to get the passenger axle out. Take note you can only do this on a GT-S. There is a snap ring inside the CV keeping it together. The GT does not have this and you will pull the axle apart.
(insert video link)


Here is the axle out of the transmission.


Repeat for the passenger axle, however there is one more step. There is an axle carrier bearing holding it behind the block. It’s held together by (2) 14mm bolts.


Remove the ECU. It’s located under the plastic cover that says DO NOT REMOVE! The cover is secured by (2) 10mm bolts and some pull tabs.




There is a 10mm bolt under the blue ground plug. Pull the plug out and you will see the bolt. Once you have the bolt out, unplug the rest of the ECU connections and pull out the ECU.




Push on the rubber grommets around the ECU plugs to get them out of the box.




Remove the EVAP line from the VSV and the hard line back at the firewall.


Remove the ECU box. It’s held in by (3) 10mm bolts.


Remove the tray that the battery sat on. It’s secured by (2) 12mm nuts and a 12mm bolt. The positive battery terminal cable is also held on this tray by a cable attachment. Just pull the tab in the center back and the cable slides off.


Remove the (2) grounds bolted to the transmission. They are both 12mm bolts.


Remove the intake. This could either be a CAI or the stock airbox.


Loosen the front motor mount bolt. It’s the long 14mm bolt and nut going through the front motor mount. Then remove the rear motor mount bolt. It is a 17mm bolt. To reach it, use 3 long extensions and a good breaker bar. Loosening the front bolt makes is easier to rock the engine to pull out the rear bolt.


Next remove the 10mm bolts holding the clutch line in place. There is one on top of the drivers motor mount and one on the side of it. There is also one down on the transmission.




Remove the slave cylinder. First take the 10mm bolt off the clutch line. Then the (2) 12mm bolts on the slave.


Here you can see the last 10mm bolt holding the clutch line, Just to the right of it are (2) 14mm bolts also holding the clutch line to the transmission. Remove both of them and pull the clutch line out of the way. You do NOT have to open the hydraulic system.


Now remove the front motor mount. First take out the center section. Its secured by (2) 14mm bolts under the center cross member and the large 14mm bolt that was loosened earlier.


Lift the center section up and set it aside. Put the bolts back in it so you don’t lose them.


Now remove the front mount on the transmission. Its held on by (2) 14mm bolts. Once its out set it aside and don’t lose the bolts!




Remove the (2) clips that hold the shifter cables to their mount. These are a real pain to get off. I use some big pliers and rotate the clip till it comes off.




Pull the wire clips that secure the shifter cables to the transmission linkage. Just pull on them, they come off pretty easily.


Remove the mount that the cables were clipped to. It’s held on by (2) 14mm bolts. There is also another tab here holding the wiring harness on. Just leave the tab connected to the harness. Reach behind the transmission and remove the speed sensor and the reverse plug. There is also some stupid weight thing on the rear motor mount. Remove it! Trust me its going to help you later. Its held on by a long 10mm bolt.






Remove the (2) 17mm bolts securing the transmission to the engine block. They are on the top of the transmission.


Remove the starter. It’s held on by (2) long 14mm bolts. One bolt is under the 17mm bolt from the last step. The other bolt is under the starter. There is also a 12mm nut that supplies the constant 12V to the starter and the ground plug. Remove both of those first before removing the 14mm bolt on the bottom of the starter.








On the bottom of the transmission are the (2) short 14mm bolts that secure the transmission to the engine. Remove both of them.






Put a jack under the transmission to support it while you remove the final motor mount.


There is a long 14mm bolt and nut like the front motor mount. Take that bolt out first. Then the (4) 14mm bolts holding the frame mount.


Lift the frame mount out and remove the transmission mount. Its secured by (3) 14mm bolts.




Here is the mount removed


Lower the jack so the engine rests on the center cross member. Then remove the final (2) 14mm bolts on the backside of the transmission. There might be a header support bracket in the way. just remove that first.

Once you have all the bolts out the transmission is ready to come out. Here you need to put on your Hulk shirt because it’s a heavy MF! Wear gloves and lift on the transmission and it will separate from the engine. Just wiggle it out and don’t let if fall on you! Once you got the transmission loose enough, it will rotate on the shaft. Rotate it counter clockwise to get the rear transmission mount around the rear frame mount. This is where it helps when you removed that stupid weight thing. Rotate it up and over and then the trans will come right out.

Once it’s out, you will see your clutch!




Remove the pressure plate, it’s secured by (6) 12mm bolts. Be careful so the clutch disk does not fall out on your leg, that hurts!!!

Once the clutch is off you see your flywheel. There are (8) 14mm (12pt) bolts holding it on. you can use an impact gun to take them off.




Look at the condition of this disk. Here you can see that it was pretty much done. The grooves have been worn away in some places. This clutch was going to slip any time.


Here is a shot of the old and new clutch and flywheels. This is a Fidanza flywheel and Southbend TZ clutch. An excellent street combination!!!! www.dxdracingclutches.com


Install the new flywheel on the crank. I used new OEM bolts here. Torque the bolts to 36 ft. lbs. Then I put a line on the bolt and on the flywheel.




You then have to turn the bolt another 90 degrees. Once the lines are perpendicular, you know you are good.
I highly recommend using ARP bolts! You can get them from Monkeywrench Racing www.monkeywrenchracing.com at a good price and they are cheaper than OEM bolts. Plus you can re-use them. You should not re-use OEM bolts. Torque spec for ARP bolts is 58 ft. lbs. Torque the bolts in a cross pattern.

Install the clutch disk and pressure plate. The Southbend kit comes with an alignment tool. While this is handy, I don’t use one. What you have to do is get the disk in place and start the bolts around the pressure plate. Just get the bolts started. Then eyeball the disk so it’s centered in the pressure plate. Once you like where it is, tighten the bolts around the pressure plate. Torque for these bolts is 16 ft. lbs.




Install the new throw out bearing on the transmission. Clean the collar up good with some break cleaner on a rag. Then apply some high temp grease on the collar. Put the new throw out bearing on the forks and lock it in place.


The rest is just the opposite of removal. Good luck bench pressing that heavy MF back up in the car. It helps if you have a friend or two lifting on the transmission as you guide it in. lift the transmission up and wiggle it until the splines on the input shaft engage the disk. Then rotate the transmission again to get it around that rear frame mount. After that you are golden. Slide the transmission closer to the block and start putting the bolts in.
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Old 08-22-2011, 06:57 PM   #2
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Very nice and detailed guide Smaay!
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Old 08-24-2011, 11:53 AM   #3
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so i've disconnected the drive shafts from the strut, (unbolted the passanger side) and I'm trying to remove them from the transmission and they're not budging. do i really need to pull on them for them to come out?
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:32 PM   #4
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the passenger side is held in by the carrier bearing. the drivers side you have to pull it out in a hammering back and forth direction till it pops out....BUT ONLY IF ITS A GTS. if you have a GT you need to use pry bars and rotate the axle to get it to pop out
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Old 08-24-2011, 04:57 PM   #5
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i unbolted 3 bolts from the carrier bearing, and i feel as if I gotta shift it to get it out but I have little play even when its unbolted, I got the drivers side out tho
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Old 08-24-2011, 05:19 PM   #6
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Great guide Smaay thanks for the awesome write-up!!
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Old 08-24-2011, 05:23 PM   #7
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Thank you for this!
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Old 08-24-2011, 05:29 PM   #8
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wait nvm got it!
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Old 08-24-2011, 09:26 PM   #9
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you unbolted the carrier from the block. you are supposed to unbolt the (2) bolts from the bearing to the carrier.
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smaay View Post
GT you need to use pry bars and rotate the axle to get it to pop out
Would that be the same for Auto GT?
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Old 11-01-2011, 10:20 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Smaay View Post
Watch my video here for how to get the passenger axle out. Take note you can only do this on a GT-S. There is a snap ring inside the CV keeping it together. The GT does not have this and you will pull the axle apart.
(insert video link)
Would you mind telling me where I can find link for this Vid.

GJ with the instruction..really helpful.....cheers mate
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jin602_05 View Post
Would that be the same for Auto GT?
yes
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssb View Post
Would you mind telling me where I can find link for this Vid.
dang! i forgot to upload it. ill look for it but its really simple, hold the axle straight and pull it out.
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:11 PM   #13
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is it necessary to change the throw out bearing?
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:17 PM   #14
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i would while its out.
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Old 11-01-2011, 03:56 PM   #15
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is it necessary to change the throw out bearing?
Yes, unless you want to remove your trans in a few days only to find out it went bad.

It's like asking if you should change your gaskets and oil pump while your engine is out....not required but definitely worth doing while its out.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:27 PM   #16
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i forgot to when i did my swap...its been running for about 6k miles now.
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:56 PM   #17
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the TO bearing isnt going to go bad overnight, in fact it might last the life of the car, but its always recommended to change.
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:38 PM   #18
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how much do u charge to install this combo smaay?
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:46 PM   #19
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Word to the wise in the rust belt, do not try to remove the wheel speed sensors from the knuckles. Instead, unplug them from the car and leave them attached to the knuckles. They won't come out in one piece.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:42 PM   #20
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So no video then?
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:34 PM   #21
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How do I pull out the passenger side axle. Its the only thing in my way to removing the transmission now. I removed the 2 bolts of the carrier bearing and it just wont budge.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:48 PM   #22
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how do i remove the bearing from the shaft? it doesn't go past the lip? am i supposed to just pulll it out or what?
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:11 AM   #23
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Hey everyone, so I've been following this guide these past couple of days and I'm stuck!

My starter motor is stuck in the flywheel casing, I've removed the wires and the two 14mm bolts (one from either side of the casing) and it won't budge a millimetre... even with some hammer persuasion. How is it seized?

Also my driver's side axle is stuck, mine's a GT and I know there's a snap ring holding the shaft in the transmission. I've pryed and pryed at it and that too won't budge.

Any help would be great
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:08 PM   #24
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I have seen GT with GT-S axles. are they green or black?

can you feel a solid resistance in the axle as you pull on it or does it feel like you will pull the CV apart?

if you feel a resistance then you might be able to do the GT-S hammer action to pop it out.

as for the starter, smack on it with a dead blow hammer, it sounds like its just stuck on the engine block
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:24 PM   #25
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My driver's side axle is green, it had the carrier bearing and came out easy. I think my passenger side is green too and if I pull on it it moves out of the transmission by a few millimetres then stops. I'm guessing its the snap ring inside stopping it.

What do you mean GT-S hammer action exactly? I've pryed it up and down whilst turning it a bit then pulling a bit but nothing happens. I cant pry it forwards and backwards very well because my prybar doesn't fit in too well.

If I cant get the starter off is it okay to remove the tranny still? It only connects with the flywheel right?
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:46 PM   #26
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pull the axle slowly not to hard, when moves out use a screwdriver between transmission and the axle and carefully pull out with the screwdriver, that's what i did

Last edited by rizzaz; 08-06-2013 at 03:50 PM.. Reason: cambie el do por el did xD
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:29 PM   #27
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Get a slide hammer and cv axle puller attachment from auto zone, works like a dream. Kind of have to hammer it on the axle though. That's the only way I have successfully gotten gt axles off without wrecking the axle.
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:35 PM   #28
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thanks rizzaz but I've tried that, it won't budge.

I'll have to leave the axle in while i drop the tranny if my last attempt to remove it doesn't work out.

Also how heavy is the transmission approximately... 25KGs, 30KG? I'm hoping i can balance it on my jack while i lower it.

Thanks for your replies guys
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:00 PM   #29
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Get a slide hammer and cv axle puller attachment from auto zone, works like a dream. Kind of have to hammer it on the axle though. That's the only way I have successfully gotten gt axles off without wrecking the axle.
That would be good but I'd have to walk a hell of a way to get one and I'm not sure how available they are in England. Plus I've spent enough on tools recently
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:15 PM   #30
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Well the trans is a little heavy and dropping be trans is next best bet if all other methods fail. Can do it by yourself and it balances rather nicely on the jack
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Old 08-06-2013, 07:13 PM   #31
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:13 AM   #32
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oh you are in the UK. the wheel is on the wrong side of the car, lol ha ha ha. ok it sounds like you have the GT-S style axle. yes you are hitting the snap ring at the end of the shaft. but can you keep pulling and feel a second stop in the CV? if you can keep pulling and the CV boot is stretching then stop before you pull the CV apart. if you can feel a second stop then what you do is hold the axle as straight as possible. and just pull it out with a hammering action in and out, it will pop right out.

I took a video of this and never uploaded it. im not sure where it is now
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:08 PM   #33
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oh you are in the UK. the wheel is on the wrong side of the car, lol ha ha ha. ok it sounds like you have the GT-S style axle. yes you are hitting the snap ring at the end of the shaft. but can you keep pulling and feel a second stop in the CV? if you can keep pulling and the CV boot is stretching then stop before you pull the CV apart. if you can feel a second stop then what you do is hold the axle as straight as possible. and just pull it out with a hammering action in and out, it will pop right out.

I took a video of this and never uploaded it. im not sure where it is now
I see I'll give it a go thanks Yeah rainy old England where everything is opposite lol. I'll give it a go but only if I get past this... And its a good one...

I've loosened all but one of the transmission to engine securing bolts and the last one has rounded off, the 14mm one right up the top-rear of the gearbox that's the hardest to get to and my spanners and sockets all slip off! I've tried sockets called bolt grips that are supposed to grab rounded bolts but they just slipped off too, tried vice grips, tried chiselling into the bolt and hammering it round, tried swearing the lot. I'll try one last time tomorrow filing the bolt head flat on two sides and using an adjustable wrench but then I'm out of ideas and I'll have to reattach everything and give it to a mechanic...

Unless someone can recommend a way I've not thought of? I haven't got a welding iron to weld a nut on the bolt head btw and my grinder wont fit in between the exhaust and heat shield. I'm so dissapointed I've got this far and this one stupid bolt could end up costing me 300-350 for my clutch change at a shop!
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:06 AM   #34
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i had the same thing happen to me one time. same bolt too, I ended up pulling the engine out and grinding flat sides on the bolt so i could get a big wrench on it.

pulling the engine was 30 minutes of more work after all the work to get the transmission off. drain the coolant, unplug the harness, unbolt the exhaust, and passenger engine mount. thats really it.
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:10 AM   #35
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Yeah I know what you mean Smaay, I am tempted but I haven't got a hoist of any sort. A friend is coming round with a Dremel in a bit. I'll chop that MF out

Btw the axle came out with that method of yours
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Old 08-16-2013, 10:46 PM   #36
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Cant seem to get the transmission separated from the engine. All bolts are seemingly removed. The mount on the top of the engine, does the mount need to be completely removed for the transmission to separate? Also, the thread says "Lift the transmission and it will separate" but its not doing that lifting a bit with a jack.

Any ideas?
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:25 AM   #37
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My driver's side axle is green, it had the carrier bearing and came out easy. I think my passenger side is green too and if I pull on it it moves out of the transmission by a few millimetres then stops. I'm guessing its the snap ring inside stopping it.

What do you mean GT-S hammer action exactly? I've pryed it up and down whilst turning it a bit then pulling a bit but nothing happens. I cant pry it forwards and backwards very well because my prybar doesn't fit in too well.

If I cant get the starter off is it okay to remove the tranny still? It only connects with the flywheel right?
You do definitely need to take the starter off - IIRC one of the bolts goes through from the gearbox side...

I wonder if you have GT-S axles because our UK-cars have 6-speed boxes?

I have a T-sport, and Smaay's drive shaft yanking technique really does work for me - it does take some force, but really you need to get some momentum rather that just pulling on it - push it in, yank it back, give it half a dozen goes and it pops right out...

BTW the gearbox is bloody heavy - I'd say more like 35-40kg - you don't want it to fall on any of your body parts!
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:54 AM   #38
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You do definitely need to take the starter off - IIRC one of the bolts goes through from the gearbox side...
2 bolts go straight through.
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:26 AM   #39
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one bolt threads through the starter and block into the transmission. the other bolt though the trans and block and threads into the starter
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Old 08-22-2013, 03:47 PM   #40
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I'd took the bolts out of the starter but it wasn't budging still, then when i didn't really need to remove it i nudged it with my pry bar and came right off, cars 'eh :/

I'm in the process of changing the CV joints because the person who staked the driveshaft nut before went mad with his hammer and punch and i damaged all the threads on my driveshafts as the nut came off

As for the gearbox not separating i had the same problem, it took me and two mates whacking it, prying it, lifting it from beneath and above, loads of penetrating fluid (just make sure you clean up your bell housing and flywheel good to remove any traces of it) and eventually we got it off after a good 4-5 hours.

As for putting the trans back on i tried manouvering it round the rear mount like the guide said but it didnt work for me, i ended up removing the rubber mount while the trans was out of the car (4 bolts underneath the car, 14mm or 16mm) that way me and a mate could position the trans face on nice and straight on the re-install instead of angling it round the mount first. Once the trans is back on in order to replace that rubber mount someone will have to pull the engine block towards the front of the car while you manouver the rubber mount around the bracket thats on the trans back into place.

This method was easier for me at least but you will need someone to pull the engine because the mount just will not fit through the gap of the bracket on the gearbox.

Thats my tip of the day

Last edited by YotaMotor; 08-22-2013 at 04:03 PM.. Reason: clear something up
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:01 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Gravel View Post
You do definitely need to take the starter off - IIRC one of the bolts goes through from the gearbox side...

I wonder if you have GT-S axles because our UK-cars have 6-speed boxes?

I have a T-sport, and Smaay's drive shaft yanking technique really does work for me - it does take some force, but really you need to get some momentum rather that just pulling on it - push it in, yank it back, give it half a dozen goes and it pops right out...

BTW the gearbox is bloody heavy - I'd say more like 35-40kg - you don't want it to fall on any of your body parts!
Yeah i do have the GT-S axles and yanking on it got it out

The trans is a beast no doubt! I'd say its near 40kg and you will need a mate or two getting it out and back in, the heaviest section of the trans is the area where the shortest driveshaft enter the trans (passenger side for UK and driver's side for US). That bulge is where the trans will tip when you get it out.
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:13 PM   #42
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I have a very Heath-Robinson setup that uses 2 scissor jacks to support the gearbox, and allows me to tilt it up at one end so that I can get the shaft back into the clutch.

I am planning to fit an E153 next, and I'm thinking that a low gantry straddling the engine bay with a couple of chain-hoists to lift and tilt might be better. You can't get under the car to unbolt the box if you have the legs of an engine crane in there...

Smaay - can I remove the centre brace with the front-tow/jacking point on it without buggering up the steering rack? It might make getting the box out from the bottom a bit easier...
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:21 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by YotaMotor View Post

As for putting the trans back on i tried manouvering it round the rear mount like the guide said but it didnt work for me, i ended up removing the rubber mount while the trans was out of the car (4 bolts underneath the car, 14mm or 16mm) that way me and a mate could position the trans face on nice and straight on the re-install instead of angling it round the mount first. Once the trans is back on in order to replace that rubber mount someone will have to pull the engine block towards the front of the car while you manouver the rubber mount around the bracket thats on the trans back into place.

This method was easier for me at least but you will need someone to pull the engine because the mount just will not fit through the gap of the bracket on the gearbox.

Thats my tip of the day
I have the extra stiff engine mounts in there, and the rear mount is a right PITA for me too - so I remove it before the transmission comes out. If you unbolt it, you can use a scissor jack and long bolt to push on the long stud on the rear mount, and force the rubber out of the bracket on the gearbox (you have to take the bolt out of the midldle of the rubber mount, obviously).
You can then wangle the mount from behind the box...

IIRC I kept the rear mount bracket on the gearbox and reinserted the through bolt, so that I'd have a handle to help rotate it while getting it in and out of the bay...
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:36 PM   #44
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The toyota manual says to remove the subframe and lower suspension arm. I assume that's not necessary since it's not in this guide? Just want to make sure.
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:27 PM   #45
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correct. i have done this hundreds of times. follow the guide
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:19 PM   #46
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What kind of flywheel will fit my exedy stage 2 clutch ?
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:09 PM   #47
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How to change your clutch and flywheel (Smaay Way)

A stock one . Just get it re surfaced
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:18 AM   #48
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I heard that stock flywheels get ruined with aftermarket clutches 2+ stages
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:23 AM   #49
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you heard wrong
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:58 PM   #50
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this thread should be a sticky, helped me a lot when I did my clutch change
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