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Old 09-20-2011, 03:24 PM   #1
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DIY: how to fix door lock actuator (with pictures)

Hi everyone. Today was a perfect day for a small project that I have been wanting to do for a while now. You know you own a celica when your door locks don't function We all know the reason it happens is because of a fairly expensive part - the door lock actuator.

This is a DIY repair procedure for your door lock actuator that i came up with.

I am not responsible or liable for any injury, damage, loss or expense that may result from this repair procedure and you sucking at it.

Time to complete 1-2 hours

Tools and supplies: Phillips head screwdriver, flashlight
T30 torx socket, parts cleaner
10mm socket with extension and a ratchet,
Small pry tool (small flat head screwdriver),
Razor blade, small hammer,
9v battery and test leads
Dielectric grease, white lithium grease and
1000 grit sand paper



Before you start, roll up your windows and disconnect your battery negative cable.

Start with removing your drivers or passenger side door panel, and part of the clear plastic cover that's behind it.



Look inside the door up where the door handle is, you'll see two metal cables with yellow clips on them, pry them off - the top one pries up and out away from the door handle, the bottom one up and towards yourself. Pull those cables out of sockets.



Find two 10mm bolts and remove them.



Remove three torx door lock bolts with your T30 socket.



Allow the lock to drop down, then disconnect the black electrical connector.



Now pull out the lock and actuator assembly with cables. Separate the white plastic cover that's held in place by 2 screws, then separate the plastic door lock actuator that's held in place by 2 screws.



Time to start working on the actuator. The idea here is to pry the actuator open without damaging it. Since it is not a "serviceable part", the actuator housing is molded together at the factory, this is where you will need your razor blade, small hammer and some patience.

Start on the corner by slicing your razor through the seam. (Be very careful not to injure yourself) Position the actuator vertically on a solid surface and tap the blade with the hammer until it gets in pretty deep, keep going around the actuator and get as much of it separated by the razor as you can. For the bottom part (next to the pin housing insert a small pry tool and carefully pry through that portion).









Now that you have it open, its time for a WTF moment, because there isn't much to the actuator at all, and you go scratching your head as to why Toyota wants $300 for it.........

Our goal right now is to remove the motor. I have done 2 actuators already and in both cases the problem was within the motor itself.

To remove the motor, first pry up on the gear and pull it out. (Don't worry it only goes in one way). Now pry the motor up on its plastic portion and pull it out. (The motor is not soldered in, so there is no wires to worry about, you will see once it comes out). Remove the worm gear and its bearing (note the way the bearing sits, it has to go back in the same way).



Now that you have the motor out, time to take it apart. With a sharp pry tool, pry out the metal tabs that hold the plastic backing in place, then VERY CAREFULLY pull the plastic portion out of the metal housing, you don't want to damage the brushes!!!!!! If the brushes are already damaged, or severely worn out, you can buy a replacement motor on EBAY http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...All-Categories



Once you have that apart, you'll see how nasty the brushes look and how much old grease is gummed up in there, use electrical parts cleaner to spray off old grease, use 1000 sand paper to clean up the copper drum on the coil shaft, put small amount of white lithium on the copper parts and reassemble the motor.



Using your test leads and a 9v battery check motor operation. (Do not hold the motor on for longer than a few seconds, these motors are not designed for that.)



Reinstall the motor and gears in reverse order, apply superglue to the cover and join the cover and the housing together. Hold together until glued parts bond.





Reassemble everything in reverse order.

THAT'S IT, YOU ARE DONE!





As I said before I have fixed two door lock actuators this way, in both cases I did not need a replacement motor, just needed to clean the old ones. IF it so happens that after you have re-installed everything and the locks are slow, get worse or still don't respond, replace the motor with http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...All-Categories
Hopefully this will save you some money. Thanks for reading!

If you would like more information on the technical specs for the electrical motor, or possibly upgrading it, here is a link to OEM manufacturer for these motors http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-b..._ID=fc_280pcsc

Good luck and don't lock yourself out!
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:27 PM   #2
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Tagging this for when I get home - the images are blocked at my work. Excited to try this though! My '03 driver's side fails in extreme heat, or with repeated operation, but runs fine other wise.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:34 PM   #3
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Great write up, I might do this to my driver's door. Haven't use my key fob thing for a while now.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:47 PM   #4
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Old 09-20-2011, 05:13 PM   #5
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nice write up!
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Old 09-20-2011, 07:09 PM   #6
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Just needs a sticky
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Old 09-20-2011, 08:36 PM   #7
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Just needs a sticky
X2 Stickie!
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Old 09-20-2011, 08:43 PM   #8
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If you end up having to replace the motor, do you need one with or without the collar? How does the splined part come off the motor shaft?

Never mind, scroll down
http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...placement.html
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Old 09-20-2011, 08:51 PM   #9
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^lol great minds think alike, nice find, I guess Lexus has that problem also.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:13 PM   #10
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X2 Stickie!
x3! I see no pics though.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:29 PM   #11
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OP: Major request. A lot of awesome guides, such as yours, become extinct in the future because the images are hosted elsewhere. Could you host them on newcelica via the "Gallery" link on the top, then re-do your image links?

To Mods: This should be a requirement for any how-to guide with images! I've found so many old guides where the pictures don't work.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:49 PM   #12
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^ok I'll work on that tomorrow, I thought about that
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:13 AM   #13
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Good work. Stickied.
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitter View Post
If you end up having to replace the motor, do you need one with or without the collar? How does the splined part come off the motor shaft?

Never mind, scroll down
http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...placement.html
That doesn't answer for the Celica though, some cars may not need the collar.

TRD01GT: When you took it apart did it have the collar?
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:06 AM   #15
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When you took it apart did it have the collar?
are you talking about the splined part thats sitting on the end of the shaft that drives the worm gear? It had that, but it wasn't in a way, the metal housing with magnets and the rotor with coils stay together during the repair. And that splined part is removable. On the two actuators that I worked on, the collars were shaped differently, one was star shaped the other was square.

If you're getting a replacement motor, you can separate the collar and press it on the new motor.
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:15 PM   #16
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Okay, I ordered 4 from this guy on ebay. I figure with the extras I can charge my friends to do their motors.

I didn't want to bother cleaning mine because I'm sure it's about fried or getting close, so I'm just opting to replace it. Seems the 22125 is the strongest motor, I just hope the phrase "The candle that burns twice as light lasts half as long" isn't true...







On a side note, anyone know how the back lock operates? Maybe even the window motor?
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:17 PM   #17
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all images re-uploaded to NC.org gallery
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:37 PM   #18
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Thanks!
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Old 09-25-2011, 04:43 PM   #19
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I wanted to add some input and pictures about my dis-assembly.

I purchased 4 new motors on eBay for $20, part number: FC-280PC-22125 (this appears to be the strongest made by Mabuchi)

Here's my drivers door motor, from a 2003 Celica with 108,000 miles. I had a car alarm installed around 70,000 miles that locks and unlocks the drivers door every time I turn the key in the ignition (for safety). This is to give you an idea of how often my motors run.

My motor would actually run fine unless it was in the heat or if I repeatedly hit lock/unlock in a row many times, then it would start to fail.

Here's what my motor looked like:



This next picture is after I cleaned the cap with Brake Cleaner, and then sprayed it down with Metal Protector. The right is a comparison of a brand new motor on cap.



Notice how the two blocks in the center of the "brush" are SO MUCH bigger compared to my worn out ones on the left? The motor on the left would probably still run for another few years, until they blocks were completely worn out.


And for sh!ts and giggles, here's a picture me compressing the cap on. I went nuts with clamps. Home Depot has some 1 inch clamps for $1.80



I used "Automotive Goop" because Super Clue was too thin and dried too fast. It didn't seal too well either.

You can test how well it's sealed by blowing into the connector. Before you cut it open you will notice no air blows out.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:49 PM   #20
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Great write up. Seems that these door locks start to fail around 140k.

An alternative if you don't want to do the work yourself.

Bestbuy/Futureshop installers will install after-market door lock actuators for about $100 each.

This compares to $300 part + 200 labor that Toyota wanted from me.

I did this and saved a bundle. Works fine now.

** caveat; i had an aftermarket keyless entry unit. Don't know if that is required to get this aftermarket actuator working
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:03 PM   #21
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I ended up getting 8 motors.. I only used one...

If you'd be willing to pay $100 to Best Buy, I think I'll offer my services to anyone in Phoenix for $100 to do this for them, including a brand new and more powerful motor.
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:20 AM   #22
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I ended up getting 8 motors.. I only used one...
LOL I guess its one way to make money, not many people will risk potentially breaking stuff.


PS: Any success stories, feedback and questions are welcome, I'd like to see what motors you guys used and so on.
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Old 11-06-2011, 02:42 PM   #23
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Hey man great write up!

Ive been searching for a few months for actuators. People still wanted over 100 bux for them used. When I read this I went ahead and ordered one of the ebay motors without any bushing on the end.

I finally got around to installing it today and it worked perfectly. The hardest part was getting the old bushing off the old motor. Then I just tapped it on the new one with a hammer. Thanks again!
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:53 PM   #24
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I'm doing this right now. Getting the clips off was easy. Getting the metal rods out of the holes was hard. The top rod has a groove in it that prevents the rod from sliding out. Had to use a screwdriver and knock it out. I'll post the final outcome when I finish
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:28 PM   #25
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Think I need new motors. Did the following steps but now I don't even hear the motor even trying to spin or move the lock. I'll order the motors and repost the outcome.
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:24 PM   #26
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Been a while since ive been here , but the drivers side doesnt lock or unlock with the keyFOB most of the time, i CAN hear the mechanism trying to move but it just kind of hesitates. Is this a sign of a bad or gummed up motor in the actuator? i don't want to go through this process to find its something ELSE.
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:33 PM   #27
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Get the new motors on the website linked in the OP. then go thru and do this. Also make sure you have a dedicated time to do it as your car doors will be unable to close while you work on the actuator.
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:03 PM   #28
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Ok, i just wanted to make sure the symptoms i had were indicative of the motor being bad or "stuck"
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:15 PM   #29
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thanks for the detailed writeup. Just need to reinstall the repaired one to see if it worked or not.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:14 PM   #30
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my suggestion is to buy new motors and switch out the part with the brushes and put it on the old motor. taking the grey collar that spins the worm gear off is really hard and even harder to press it back on. mine actually cracked when pressing it. just clean up the motor part and leave the grey collar on switch the plastic piece with the electric brushes and reassemble.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:26 PM   #31
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awesome! my shit works fine, but if one decides to go out, i will use this method of repair... nice pics fellas
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:14 AM   #32
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I appreciate this thread. I thought (hoped) the problem might just be a fuse. I, however, will be having Toyota repair mine.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:00 PM   #33
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Awesome thread. I ran into a couple snags but I managed. Sun disappeared before I could do the passenger door but it should take me 30 minutes as opposed to the fours hours I took for the drivers door. I did what the above user suggested and replaced the end caps, for the life of me I could not get the metal bearing tip off.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:59 AM   #34
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Awesome thread. I ran into a couple snags but I managed. Sun disappeared before I could do the passenger door but it should take me 30 minutes as opposed to the fours hours I took for the drivers door. I did what the above user suggested and replaced the end caps, for the life of me I could not get the metal bearing tip off.
Hope it worked out for you. I will be redoing this when i get a new set of actuators.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:15 PM   #35
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Hope it worked out for you. I will be redoing this when i get a new set of actuators.
Yeah it did. Works every single time now. One thing, everyone should be careful of making sure the two wires leading to the door handle and lock have proper slack. Manually locking and unlocking the door, there was an abnormal amount of resistance. Don't cross or have them weird positions. I had to reopen the door and play around with the wires because I was in such a rush I crisscrossed the wires.
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:07 AM   #36
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Actuator

That is a great post you did on the actuator. I have a question if you don't mind. Would I need the collars if I replace the motors? On ebay I see 2 different motors FC280 pc22125 and a FC280 pc20150 which do I need to order ? What kind of glue are you guys using to hold the actuator together. Thanks
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:25 PM   #37
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This saved me 300$, and I thank you very much for that. I simply purchased two motors for $10 off eBay, and they work PERFECT. I will be buying premium membership just because you saved me money. Thank you!
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:34 PM   #38
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Your welcome
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:44 PM   #39
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I agree, thank you so much, saved me a ton of $ and time. The only problem is driver side motor if i use it to much to fast it dies, give it a minute and it works fine again. Any one figure how to get the piece off the motor shaft without breaking it? would like to replace the whole motor.
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Old 07-07-2012, 02:03 PM   #40
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Thanks so much for this thread. My blocks were completely gone on my old motor so I ordered two from ebay.

For those that have had trouble with getting off the grey metal collar. What I did was use a vise grip plier on the end with the cap off and slowly wiggled the collar off with another pair of pliers. Tap slowly with the hammer. Hope it helps.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:51 AM   #41
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Took mine apart today and you can't see how bad it is yet.



After further dis assembly



This motor is burnt up. the brushes are non existent anymore and it has to be replaced.
I followed the ebay link TRD01GT provided and purchased a new motor to replace this one.
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:56 AM   #42
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I didnt want to rebuild the little motor, its a waste of time. A bought new motor from Ebay ( $4.99 shipped, part number on above post) but was a bit worried on how the axle turned the worm gear. When I removed the motor I noticed there was a semirectagular piece that is pressed and slides into the wormgear. It was a bit hard to remove. I vicegriped the other end of the axle, and with some pliers twisted it off while pulling. DONT BRAKE IT! lol I had no problem taking it out. Tapped it on the new motor and put the motor in. I gel glued the cover solid and reinstalled the actuator and lock assembly. It took me 1 hr. Thanks for the pics and info guys! Vuola!!! it worked!
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Old 07-28-2012, 09:01 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waih136 View Post
I agree, thank you so much, saved me a ton of $ and time. The only problem is driver side motor if i use it to much to fast it dies, give it a minute and it works fine again. Any one figure how to get the piece off the motor shaft without breaking it? would like to replace the whole motor.
I posted it above...Brake the plastic cap off the motor on the opposite end of the axle shaft. With Vice grips clamp the end and then with some pliers twist and pull the piece off. It takes a little twisting and pulling but it will come off. Then tap it on the new shaft.
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:02 PM   #44
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Replaced the brushes today. You can see how worn down the old ones are.
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:16 PM   #45
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Hee guys

I tried this
Replaced the motors en put everything back together
But now my doors do not open
The passenger side doesn't work at all
And the drivers side wil only open from the indside
So I have to get in through the boot
Does anybody know how to open the passenger door?
Please help me out
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:51 PM   #46
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Sounds like you put the cables on the door backward, the ones that connect to the lock switch and open lever on the inside. The white fitting goes on the open lever and the black fitting must be on the lock switch and attached with the lock switch in the unlocked position.

Just go through the uninstall process again in your head and try to remember what you forgot.
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:53 PM   #47
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That or you didn't attach the hangars to the inside of the door when you reassembled.
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:44 AM   #48
Uranus
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Hee guys
Seems like i put the white motor housing in backwards.
But the dealer had to fix it
Because the door couldn't open anymore
It cost me €160 ($220)
But since the motors were good I still ended up saving money
So thanks everyone!
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Old 09-28-2012, 03:20 PM   #49
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Seems much better than installing an aftermarket one and drilling holes into the door and splicing wires and such. I will try this way.
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:17 AM   #50
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Just want to contribute to the post since I have benefited and fixed my door. Thank you to the ones who took time for the good walk throughs, pictures and tips.
FYI, I'm a senior technician in manufacturing so I have years of experience in repairs and DIY stuff. Please read if you are planing this door fix and don't have lots of experience.

First of all. You have to take your time and do it slow with the right tools. Now, I can do it with my eyes closed since I had to take it apart 4 times but if I took my time, planned it, it would have been done faster.
I found instead of unclipping the actuator hangers, it is easier and safer to take the door bolts out and slide it out of the hole. Trying to unclip might break it. If so, just opened up new problems and $$.
Make sure you unclip the cables from the door panel instead of just letting the door panel hang.
Have to put the right 2 bolts on the speaker side of the door panel for the plastic cover to snap in.
Prepare to get your hands greasy, I had no idea inside of the sealed door was so dirty and greasy.
Test the motor before and AFTER you assembled back before screwing in all the holes. I tested the motor working but didn't line up the plastic arms right. It prevented the door from locking. Had to disassemble everything and troubleshoot.
Many poster say easy side job, takes about 30 mins. Well, If I have to do it again, maybe 30min ~ hour since I have experience. Do not take it likely and do it on a day when you have plenty of time if it's your first try. and don't panic when you open the door panel off and have to stick you head in to figure out how am I going to work though this small area.
Pull off the motor sleve carefully not to ding it because it will need to slide in the worm screw assembly.
Good luck
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