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Old 07-09-2003, 03:56 PM   #1
Tronix
 
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Replace Your Lift bolts (guide)

Several of us got together last night and swapped out the lift bolts to avoid the breaking problem many are experiencing.

I put together a step by step guide with real pics to make it easier..


Click here to check it out


-Tronix(another fine TC garage install)GT
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Old 07-09-2003, 04:00 PM   #2
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you can see the wear starting on the bolt on the right. The left bolt is the new bolt it starts tapering right at the wear point, so it redirects the load these bolts have been getting. I advise all GT-S owners (2000-2002) to do this before they break. in general it appears the intake bolt takes more damage than the exhaust bolt.


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Old 07-09-2003, 05:22 PM   #3
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Great write up! Thank you very very much
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Old 07-09-2003, 05:28 PM   #4
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Old 07-09-2003, 08:09 PM   #5
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This must have been the most informative write up since everyone started talking about this....thanks......really.
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Old 07-09-2003, 08:14 PM   #6
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awesome man, thanks for doing it, much appreciated,
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Old 07-09-2003, 08:18 PM   #7
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dude thanks man
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Old 07-09-2003, 08:22 PM   #8
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thanks man. Good job. We need more people like you to save us poor students some money
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Old 07-09-2003, 11:38 PM   #9
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nice.. gj.. beat me to it.. just got my new bolts today and i'm crossin my fingers that the old ones aren't broken
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Old 07-10-2003, 12:13 AM   #10
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haha... try to figure out which pics are of mine, lol... (hint, the stocker looking one)

I was so relieved when both of the bolts were intact!

The guide looks great Brent!

Usman
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Old 07-10-2003, 10:03 AM   #11
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thnx alot. i just have a question. arent u supposed to torque the screws to spec when u put the cover back on? and the gasket doesnt need replacing? thnx
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Old 07-10-2003, 10:34 AM   #12
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well, Technically yes, you are suppose to torque them to 7 ft-lbs, but thats not alot of torque, so you can tighten them right with a standard socket wrench. just dont torque real hard and strip out the bolt. you can tell when its tight.

as for the Gaskets,, the 2 we did were just fine, there was no need to replace them.


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Old 07-10-2003, 10:56 AM   #13
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ok thnx
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Old 07-10-2003, 11:17 AM   #14
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yeah, he meant 7 newton meters, not ft. lbs.

metric system, lol.
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Old 07-10-2003, 01:06 PM   #15
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I should print that out and bring it to the morons at Toyota. Stupid fools didn't check out my lift bolts when I brought my car in for service yesterday even when I told them about the TSB. My CEL light is still on too.
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Old 07-10-2003, 10:59 PM   #16
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to be quite honest, your bolt (on this pic) looks fine to me... i don't see how the "new" one is not going to show the same signs of what seems like normal wear after some time... i think toyota might have realized that some faulty bolts found their way into the production lines for some 2ZZGEs and some of these might end up breaking... i'd like to know what percentage of GTS (and at what mileage) have experienced the broken bolt problem...

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Old 07-10-2003, 11:06 PM   #17
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well.. if you notice, the bolt on the right (the old one) is worn a bit from where it meets the rocker shaft.
mine looked like that.. maybe a little worse, but here's my theory:

the rocker shaft can rotate if there's an indentation in the bolt, if it rotates, then lift isn't quite as powerful.
it's not much of an indentation, but i'm sure to an engine, a 1/4mm of play makes a bit of a difference.
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Old 07-11-2003, 06:38 AM   #18
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I have another idea... if you look at the bolts in that pic, notice where the old style bolt's worn area, on the right, lines up on the new style bolt, on the left. It lines up where the bolt begins to taper...and I'm guessing that would be the strongest point of the bolt because it is essentially an arch rather than straight like the old bolt...

If I'm incorrect, please let me know...I'm trying to apply physics, but I could be off.

btw, how's it going Raul?

Usman
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Old 07-11-2003, 08:53 AM   #19
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well, i have not seen the new bolts myself, by judging by that picture it looks as if the new ones are actually thinner? than the old ones? who knows... the design looks very different...
Usman, same old man... needing an oil change but besides that, nothing much going on in S.FL anymore as most of the guys have moved to orlando for school... so it's just me and Derek (the dude with the EVO, boyracer's brother)...
R
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Old 07-11-2003, 01:21 PM   #20
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nice write up indeed
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Old 07-11-2003, 05:14 PM   #21
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Old 07-11-2003, 06:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by uansari
yeah, he meant 7 newton meters, not ft. lbs.

metric system, lol.

No actually the valve cover is 10 newton meters. or 7 ft-lb's the TSB shows it both ways for you. I was right, you should know better than to correct me!



and yes, these bolts ARE different, if you raise the bolt on the right up even with the one on the left, the taper in the bolt is right at the stress point. Im not sure how you cant see the wear in the bolt, its mor ethan obvious, and if it wears more it makes it easy to snap.

The taper where it is, will redirect the friction that is being forced on the bolt during lift.



-Tronix(physics gUrU)GT
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Old 07-12-2003, 08:36 PM   #23
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very nice job,the dummy's guide to toyota bolt replacement.I know it helped me,thanks
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Old 07-14-2003, 08:39 AM   #24
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Tronix-So the valve cover bolts to 7 ft-lbs, but what about the torque specs on the lift bolts that are replaced. Thanks
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Old 07-15-2003, 10:30 AM   #25
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For all that have checked/replaced their lift bolts.

Did you replace the gaskets as well? (valve cover gasket and O-ring for the oil line) and if you didn't, have you noticed any leaking?

Main reason for questions being, do I need to go buy all the gaskets and the bolts + gasket sealer to replace them, if unbroken of course. (I'm still under 60k warranty but don
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Old 07-16-2003, 08:47 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tronix
No actually the valve cover is 10 newton meters. or 7 ft-lb's the TSB shows it both ways for you. I was right, you should know better than to correct me!
haha, ok... you're right... you sure know a lot about these lift bolt thingy's... I'd almost think you had lift :P

Quote:
Originally posted by BadTOYO

Usman, same old man... needing an oil change but besides that, nothing much going on in S.FL anymore as most of the guys have moved to orlando for school... so it's just me and Derek (the dude with the EVO, boyracer's brother)...
R, that sucks... things must be quiet then... bet it's hot as hell down there right now too...
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Old 07-16-2003, 01:33 PM   #27
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Quote:
Did you replace the gaskets as well? (valve cover gasket and O-ring for the oil line) and if you didn't, have you noticed any leaking?
wat is this? cans somebody post some pics?


Quote:
well, Technically yes, you are suppose to torque them to 7 ft-lbs, but thats not alot of torque, so you can tighten them right with a standard socket wrench.
is that ur guess or is torqueing them to 7 ft-lbs a fact? also can i use a torque wrench i use on my rims to torque down the lift bolt? or do i need to go out and buy a small torque wrench?
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Old 07-16-2003, 06:25 PM   #28
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btw.... don't overtorque the new lift bolts... they're supposed to be 66 in/lbs which is 5.5 ft/lbs

vatik broke one of the new ones when installing...
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Old 07-16-2003, 07:06 PM   #29
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i just took my head cover off afterwork to replace the lift bolt. My car only have abou 20k miles on it and the lift bolt was ready to break. really recommend you look into your lift bolts. sorry i don't have a digi cam otherwise i would have taken a picture of the damaged bolts. also it took me and my friend who's a mechanic hour to do it with air tools, pretty easy to do. definently don't over tighten the new bolts, doesn't need a lot of force. i forgot how much torque my friend use.
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Old 07-16-2003, 07:33 PM   #30
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air tools? you don't need no steenkeen air tools for this
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Old 07-16-2003, 07:40 PM   #31
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wat can u use to torque it down to that spec? i dont have a torque wrench so is there any other way to do this? or should i go and buy a torque wrench? if so is there a specific torque wrench i should buy? i kno that the torque wrench used on rims are huge so i doubt u could use that on the bolts right?
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Old 07-16-2003, 09:06 PM   #32
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nope you don't, but with air tool taking out those bolts that head cover was a breeze. cept those damn bolts in the back. to tell ya the truth, we only tourque down the 2 lift bolts. the rest we just put them back on by hand. ah well if my car blows up next month i'll get ya know

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air tools? you don't need no steenkeen air tools for this
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Old 07-16-2003, 09:46 PM   #33
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Quote:
wat can u use to torque it down to that spec? i dont have a torque wrench so is there any other way to do this? or should i go and buy a torque wrench? if so is there a specific torque wrench i should buy? i kno that the torque wrench used on rims are huge so i doubt u could use that on the bolts right?
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Old 07-17-2003, 02:38 PM   #34
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Awesome write up ! Thanks.. But, what does a socket-swivel head look like? can someone show me a picture?
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Old 07-17-2003, 09:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chiznarles
Awesome write up ! Thanks.. But, what does a socket-swivel head look like? can someone show me a picture?

R
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Old 07-18-2003, 05:22 AM   #36
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Ok.... changed them out last night. Probably took about an hour. I didn't have a swivel head socket hehe .

Anyway, they both had an indention worn into them. The intake side being the most severe. As long as all my gaskets resealed well it was an outstanding success. I think I sweat about 5lbs in my freakishly hot garage, eeeeekkk.

The bolts seem a lot smaller in person. Oh well, $1.20 for materials, $40 dollars for time, not having to wait for the dealer to screw it up
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Old 07-18-2003, 11:25 PM   #37
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Quote:
the valve cover is 10 newton meters
so u need to tighten the valve cover at 7 ft-lbs? wat about the lift bolts? is that also 7 ft-lbs?
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Old 07-21-2003, 07:22 AM   #38
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damn...the intake side was broke and the exhaust side was showing wear and I only have 19k miles. I urge everyone to do this as soon as possible.
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Old 07-21-2003, 05:37 PM   #39
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lift bolts are 66inches/ lb. 66inches/12 (inches per foot) = 5.5 ft/lbs. Most torque wrenches go to inches when it's that low.
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Old 07-21-2003, 11:50 PM   #40
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i just replaced my lift bolts! they were worn a little bit, luckily not broken. im at about 16,500 miles. heres a pic of the exhaust bolt versus the new bolt:



the intake bolt's wear was much thicker than the exhausts' but the pic didnt turn out clear.
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Old 07-22-2003, 12:53 AM   #41
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Quote:
lift bolts are 66inches/ lb. 66inches/12 (inches per foot) = 5.5 ft/lbs. Most torque wrenches go to inches when it's that low.
thnx. how about the valve cover? is it 7ft-lbs?

pokgai, did u replace ur "o" ring and the valve cover gasket?
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Old 07-22-2003, 06:40 AM   #42
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You shouldn't have to change out anything besides the lift bolts... at least neither of us did when we did the install... if you have the gaskets, then by all means... it can't hurt.

Usman
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Old 07-22-2003, 12:27 PM   #43
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I haven't noticed any leaking around my valve cover gasket.

A mechanic told me once the key to the valve covers was not to warp it by over-tightening one side vs. the other. I don't have a torque wrench (on my wish list) so I just held the 3/8" ratchet right at the bend and cranked them down
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Old 07-22-2003, 05:11 PM   #44
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I checked my bolts and my intake side was broken at just under 70,000 miles I put it back together and took it to the dealer and had them check it and they are fixing it under extended waranty. (didn't want to mess with the timing chain)

How often should we change the bolts???
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Old 07-22-2003, 06:13 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by nudge1201
I checked my bolts and my intake side was broken at just under 70,000 miles I put it back together and took it to the dealer and had them check it and they are fixing it under extended waranty. (didn't want to mess with the timing chain)

How often should we change the bolts???
was/is the second cam engaging still?
R
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Old 07-22-2003, 07:15 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally posted by BadTOYO
was/is the second cam engaging still?
R
Yes, lift engaged just fine even after I check it before I dropped off at the dealership. I just said it was intermitently engaging so I could have them look at it.
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Old 07-22-2003, 07:17 PM   #47
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The bolt broke in the middle of the thread so the bottom half was still in place.
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Old 07-22-2003, 08:18 PM   #48
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sh!t... i don't really want to turn a wrench on this motor... that's what my 3SGTE is suppoused to be there for...
R
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Old 07-23-2003, 09:36 AM   #49
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intake bolt - broken
exhaust bolt - worn

2000 gts- 37000 miles

I took a pic of the broken bolt and tried to make an appointment at the toyota dealership to have them fix hit, this is the bull sh*t they gave me. well i dont know about that tsb, we'd h ave to diagnose your car to see if there is a problem. so i have to find a time to get off work take it to them for freakin 3 hours to check to see if it is broken then make another appointment, that is if they find the problem haha, to have the thing fixed, courtesy toyota orlando, god
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Old 07-23-2003, 11:12 AM   #50
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print out the tsb and bring it in
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