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Old 06-13-2019, 06:05 PM   #1
2jz-style
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How to transplant M/T from doner GTS

So I went to drop a front end out of +03 GTS doner car. It saw maybe 13' winters and possibly sat in the long grass for years so with one swift blow I put a gaping hole in the lower radiator bar & rocker a panel.

I got through the following with ease and didn't even look to Smay's guide yet, not sure what to do once it's down, maybe convert to manual or build a good 2zz A/T hass turbo kit that did not receive the best of reviews.

1. Removal of battery holster tray etc..

2. Removal of ecm holster & fuse box

3. Removal of inlet tube & air box

4. Removal of raiator support bar

I attached 2 (s)hooks to hang it out of place not before deciding to drain the coolant. It will eventually drain once the heatercore is disconnected just use a log funel with oil pan & hang the compressor aside and don't open the A/C lines ever!

5. Disconect header from midpipe.

This is where the fun begins with the heat sheild rotted I could use a prybar to access the nuts that otherwise turn endlessly if not secured with a small vise grip.

Driver side is the worst but got lucky with the passenger side made easily through the fender.

This is true definition of imposisible getting around the rear mont with a vise grip to attatch on the nut.

Climbing underneath with 1/2" drive breaker plus extension rod. I had to re think this when the bolts turned endlessly as I did not know there design.

6. Disconect the fuel supply (nothing to drain only pressure) I was puzzled by Smay's guide that was aftermarket base. OEM has a safty clip the guide didn't provide. If you don't have the correct tool once removed by hand ask for (lyle 3940) or be prepared to struggle popping the quick release. I used what paw had left me..god rest.

7. Disconect power steering lines
(pump was alredy dead) do not target the pump at the wheel well as the clips are just ridiculous. I tried for an hour before I pulled it at the resivour.

8. Disconect clutch slave lines( non mandatory) after all that trouble I figured out to just disconnect at the master cylinder and twist the evap lines underneath it clockwise to untangle.

9. To dismount the A/C compressor I solved the belt tentioner trick using the hammer to prop it up. It will come loose either way once the compressor is off but may add tension in the removal process.

If the A/C compressor will even give using the following tools.. I almost rounded the top bolt out as my extraction socket won't fit behind the hardline with the alternator.

Looking at a 1/2" ratcheting combo it would never work. So onto the correct tool being a 12mm obstruction wrench after a 12mm five point slipped off as well.

10. Shifter cables & fuse box harness are the utmost unreachable after proping up the heater core I rounded a torqe bolt on the airbag module and had to drill it out, harness clip must unhook the shifter plate cover to access the driver side bolt.

After that there is another passenger side bolt neither were a challenge and the box assy was mostly the same as the exterior moon clips removal.

90 degree pliers are better than suggested with a rocking chair motion it helps pry the much bonded moon clip.

11. Dismount subframe was not difficult after all the fluid spills over the years it preserved the bolts and had turned without much persuasion.

Only the rubber bushing bolt is removed and replaced no engine mount removal needed just unbolt the lower radiator bar.

Back to the header bolts there is more to release the shift cables. I will update from there once this is solved.


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Last edited by 2jz-style; 06-13-2019 at 07:16 PM..
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