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Old 03-19-2018, 03:17 PM   #101
2jz-style
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Okay, I follow this now. The intermediate shaft only transmits power when the front/centre half it connects to has slip or speed differences, in normal mode the parts all move together so the lock sleeve is engaged all the time. 50/50 but not the wimpy rear diff that needed a rear axle coupler to choke it.

Edit: https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=BMv_v9IBugU

Don't weld anything it's not design for that kind of force. I'll get the carrier bracket with hubs from the Rx300 or Highlander next time around.

Another point I found, there's also an oil return hose in the aftermarket turbo oil pan where the transfer case would be.
https://www.newcelica.org/forums/show...=1523826312558
It could be relocated in theory if the oil return plugs were to support an oil cooler for both MR/FF cars. 1zz don't have that option without an aftermarket pan, filter, so my question.. could a 1zz oil pump supply a 2zz crank enough oil.




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Old 04-15-2018, 05:14 PM   #102
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Jake is correct, the upper block is almost the same shape, actually an optical illusion. I got further into this and found the 1zz to be more convex, meaning a larger bell shaped area.

1st the red rectangles are the support brackets for the transfer case except a single hole that had to be flatten by OEM.

In the green rectangle the cylinder 1 or 4 runner is sideways, but the 2zz runner is vertical same as cylinder 2,3,4 or 1 making a 2zz appear less convex.

I must have been looking at that upside down block from the 4wd as there is no significant a ridge between the 2wd blocks.
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Old 04-29-2018, 04:45 PM   #103
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Hey everyone,

Quick update for why I was MIA for so long. Family surgeries family deaths... Not the best start to the year or the way I wanted to end the weekend I planned to work on it. Anyway life seemed to settle down now... Although in the process of selling the house so... I dont have a shop right now. (Not related, but if your following the project and want to help work on it with me... I'm in the magnolia area, looking for shops in the shoreline/Seattle area) Enough of pity help.


If you didn't want to read that... READ STARTING HERE for no sob stories. Lets talk!

First off I want to talk about why I would weld the half shaft. Post #101 has this graph


You can see the half shaft goes straight through the central diff/ Transfer case. Refer to post #97 for more of my in depth research on how the transfer case works in newer awd Toyota. After that day I saw this quote somewhere
"I choose a lazy person to do a hard job. Because a lazy person will find an easy way to do it" -Bill Gates

Although me and 2jz differ on the option of welding the halfshaft and intermediate shaft together I want to show the pros and cons of it.

First off I will list the cons
1). You will need to find a half shaft that is strong enough to hold the torque.(more on this later in the post)
2). You will need a stig/tig welder to weld the half shaft to the intermediate shaft along with welding experience.
3). If you dont have a lsd then if the right wheel slips all other three wheels wont spin
4). Put little more stress on the transmission.

Now lets talk about the pros
1). Easier way to mount the transfer case and have it work.
2). Always Awd as long as passenger side spins.
3). If you have a LSD you will have full time AWD
4). Less hassle to install.
5). Easier to remove after install (wont need to drop transmission just remove halfshaft and unmounted transfer case)
6).100% drive to all the wheels well... pretty close to 100% no split.
7).Limits the possibility of breaking the transmission.



Anyway lets not talk about this too much because this is uncharted territory and we cant really compare pros and cons without doing it.

I want to explain why I want to do this though...
First off from looking at the rx300 half shaft it looks like its solid. Which usually can handle a lot more torque than a hollow half shaft. Second I dont want to weld the half shaft to the transfer case that would cause lots of different problems and is just plain dumb, but if I take the intermediate shaft that is supposed to be on the transmission transfer case side and flip it on the open end side. I could weld it to the half shaft Effectively welding it in place like this


I have already confirmed it will fit on the other side of the transfer case


Also still fits into the transfer case differential so it would work correct?



Well let me talk a little about why it may not work. First the oil in the transfer case needs to be held in there so a silicone cap/ O-Ring would need to be custom made, but on the other hand that is by far something easy any of us could do. So I feel comfortable welding the intermediate shaft onto the passenger half shaft. I mean after all if I really think about what could break I think about the half shaft snapping... Which I'm sure that anyone of us would say that's a way easier fix that having to fix a transmission. I'm sure alot of people would differ on this and they can I just would like to have a working AWD Celica rather than not having one. I mean easier mounting easier maintenance whats the huge downside here please let me know if I am overthinking and mission something here.

Last off I will try to continue to work on the project. I am looking for a cheap enough garage/ shop (Really hard in Seattle)

Last edited by JakesFate; 05-04-2018 at 09:34 PM.. Reason: Fixing pictures
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Old 04-30-2018, 11:53 AM   #104
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Pics aren't working but I went back to the training video, I don't follow how an Lsd will make things full-time, maybe share some of that info.

Here's how to do it right, by watching the training video again it was clear to me the all-trac diff (blue green) had a longer neck piece for locking sleeve via electric clutch or service technician. (white)

Any chance it could fit in the newer transfer house with a few mods? It's more adaptable than welding a RH shaft (pink) to the hollow shaft (yellow)

Already commented the (pink/yellow) shafts turn at different speeds, only possible in a strait line or part-time off road surface, never on pavement.

Here's the finish product that can adapt to full-lock or variable full time via (green) lock sleeve. If I understand correctly the newer is only variable power so the lock is always engaged,?

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Old 05-02-2018, 07:57 AM   #105
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Just wanna give my condolences man. I know you don't want the sob story but I just wanted to show appreciation for the fact that you're still pressing on with this considering your real life events.

Be cool man and great info!

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Old 05-04-2018, 10:06 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by DatGTS00 View Post
Just wanna give my condolences man. I know you don't want the sob story but I just wanted to show appreciation for the fact that you're still pressing on with this considering your real life events.

Be cool man and great info!

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Thank you I appreciate it, But I would still like to help everyone while I go through the process. I mean life happens right?

Anyway the pic's were broken I fixed them now... Hopefully.
Second I can totally see where 2jz is coming from, But I want to take this pic


and I will try to explain the differences with my transfer case. Tomorrow I will try to get updated pictures and explain further.
Anyway first with the transfer case I have the locking sleeve(White) is non existent it is welded to the differential in the transfer case. So having no button or electronic clutch it is always active on a viscous coupling front differential. Again I will try to get a video explanation of this. The other thing I wanted to talk about is the yellow green and grass green. In the transfer case I have this is a hollowed out piece there isn't two separate pieces. The part that connects with the viscous coupling of the front differential connects directly to the transfer case differential. While pink connects directly to the LSD Differential.

So 2jz is correct in the newer models the lock is always engaged. How they get around this is the viscous front differential, But with that being said there is after market and a couple mods to have a full time LSD differential.

This is why I dont understand why Welding Grass Green tube to Pink wouldnt work?


Let me know what all of you think please!

Pink, if we could find a way to get it working could be made into a custom shaft that could hold the stress. I am sure the diff can hold the power until such half shaft could be made.

I will try to get the parts tomorrow(in storage) and record or take pictures of it all

Thanks,
Jake
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:34 PM   #107
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Re-cap of last post did you notice the viscous controlled setup:

There is a RH side gear (green) and a LH (orange) side gear inside the blue diff:

Mechanical control uses the RH gear:

Viscous control uses the LH gear:

So the e154 had massive 2 in 1 system and looking at your pics the newer has 1 (orange) minus the (coupler) and (green) lock my early e50f has 1 (green) lock minus the no.2 shaft (orange) - yellow green/blue green is power split for all systems.
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Old 05-19-2018, 01:07 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by 2jz-style View Post
Re-cap of last post did you notice the viscous controlled setup:

There is a RH side gear (green) and a LH (orange) side gear inside the blue diff:

Mechanical control uses the RH gear:

Viscous control uses the LH gear:

So the e154 had massive 2 in 1 system and looking at your pics the newer has 1 (orange) minus the (coupler) and (green) lock my early e50f has 1 (green) lock minus the no.2 shaft (orange) - yellow green/blue green is power split for all systems.
Okay yes you are correct, but as for the viscous coupler in the u140 diff which I am on my way to get from the ole shop will get video later of it.

It isnt quite a viscous diff. When you move the input shaft it will in turn move the smaller intermediate, but once you move the intermediate shaft it will move the diff in reverse and make a terrible grinding... I will probably try and take apart the diff one of these days. Tomorrow is the plan!

I will want to start having some video explanation because sometimes it is hard to explain and video is just easier to get on the same page.



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Old 05-23-2018, 08:10 PM   #109
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Quick post, and other useful information for the project.

To clarify up some information I wanted to make sure I was 100% on. I decided to take apart the u140 diff to see how it works. It also gives us a idea of how to make it work.

Firstly the bolts are a pain in the a** to get off.


First impressions I didn't notice anything different or unusual, but at this point I thought I would try to record me taking it apart further.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vBipPDLk36WyKuYL9

Not sure if that will work or if I will have to upload other places.
I wasn't explaining anything in the video so I will have to try and explain it on here.

First thing I noticed after cracking it open is the front diff not being all one piece. I was confused because it contradicts what we were thinking here having it fwd first, but instead it's rwd and fwd on demand.

Let me explain why I think this. Earlier in this thread I spoke about the vlsd. (Quick recap: Fluid goes into the diff and pushes against a metal clutch and locks in the diff)

If you watch the video you see me pull out the clutch, Which has some grooves in it not the best!

The next thing I noticed is how the intermediate shaft connects to the front diff, It is a solid piece. So how does any power get sent to the front if none of this is connected to the actual diff.

I investigate the center diff further, but it still doesn't make sense to how we are thinking the diff works.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cXA3vcs9nzLZYJsx2

It is a open diff you can tell by how it spins the opposite way when I spin it, But when thinking about it that would be the only time the front wheels would start to move. The front wont actually work till it is locked. Rear is always working by the main connection and in case that isn't working the intermediate shaft makes sure its moving. The front diff doesn't actually work till its locked up with fluid. Still I wouldnt trust how this works there is still room for error and slippage as you can see from the grooves.

Finally I am going to leave this it is how the diff and transfer case connect.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ixd5C20EBZRxoaYE3

One thing I cant figure out is why everything is connected, maybe I can work on this later, but after doing all this, I got some very bad news. My grandmother passed away so I will be taking some time away from the project. I will be back, but in the mean time. Try to help me understand the way these interact.

Thanks!
Jake
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Old 06-04-2018, 02:52 PM   #110
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Somewhere in the world is a group of people with the knowledge you need to bridge the thinking gap. Maybe we should link here from the social media Celica groups?

I know the thread is quite but we're still following you on this journey. Hope your real life stuff goes as well as it can man

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Old 06-04-2018, 03:03 PM   #111
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Somewhere in the world is a group of people with the knowledge you need to bridge the thinking gap. Maybe we should link here from the social media Celica groups?

I know the thread is quite but we're still following you on this journey. Hope your real life stuff goes as well as it can man

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Thanks man I think were close... I feel it I have something too add on about the rear end later I'm about to run over and try to dismantle some more soo... We will see.

As far as I know the other most active Celia forum is celicahobby right? We will get something soon
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Old 06-04-2018, 03:20 PM   #112
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We also have OZcelica. I usually post in one and link from the others when making threads, never know what pocket you might find someone who knows their stuff

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Old 06-05-2018, 10:48 AM   #113
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We also have OZcelica. I usually post in one and link from the others when making threads, never know what pocket you might find someone who knows their stuff

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Thats always true, I will have to try and post some stuff over there. Although with that being said I took a video yesterday and watching it back now I think I finally got it and how some of the problems I was having could be solved simply. I will head over to my aunts house later (only garage I have to work in(Gf angry that kitchen table is messy now)) Anyway. I think there was a simpler way all along I was just over thinking it.
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:32 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by JakesFate View Post
Thats always true, I will have to try and post some stuff over there. Although with that being said I took a video yesterday and watching it back now I think I finally got it and how some of the problems I was having could be solved simply. I will head over to my aunts house later (only garage I have to work in(Gf angry that kitchen table is messy now)) Anyway. I think there was a simpler way all along I was just over thinking it.
Your missus won't be mad when she gets to cruise around in her man's unique AWD ride haha!

How did you go in the end dude? Did your theorycrafting come through?

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Old 06-13-2018, 09:11 AM   #115
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Your missus won't be mad when she gets to cruise around in her man's unique AWD ride haha!

How did you go in the end dude? Did your theorycrafting come through?

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Well she's always hated the car :/ it's too agressive she thinks... Uhm okay?

Anyway... In the end I think there is a couple of different ways to do it, but the simplest might just be the easiest for us to do.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8mY1c4vroNsEs6pY7

I have a video of me breaking down as much as I can and trying to explain it, but to be honest I ramble and backtrack alot.

In the end I am basically thinking how can I use the main diff in the Celica transmission... But also would it be better to just do as Toyota did and weld the output shaft onto the center diff to force full time awd

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Old 06-21-2018, 10:50 AM   #116
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Welp, This morning I think I just destroyed the c60. It gets stuck in reverse wont go into first and is leaking oil, So tomorrow I will be removing it again and will take another look at the diff. Yay....

Anyway I will be posting about a easier way to remove the transmission. So look forward to that sometime tomorrow
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Old 06-22-2018, 09:30 PM   #117
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Okay... Here we go, So first off my c60 is still working... Looks like the shift fork for the reverse came loose always making it engaged... Dont use old thread locker. Will probably be switching to red.

Enough of that though. Good news is I got a good look of the diff.


Yepp... its still bigger. D***



Comparing both the internal diffs they look extremely similar although the diff out of the awd looks like the center diff is weaker?
Looking at the inner shaft... My bearing was weak and broke.


Looks like you could machine out something to fit the intermediate shaft on... I dont think I will be doing that. I mean it does still fit into the opening in the c60 trans.


At this point I was exhausted and pissed off so I went to the storage unit grabbed my welder and....



Thats right I did it... Its not the best weld and I probably ruined the speed gear, but... The passenger shaft it locked to the diff. Which is how the u140 diff is. I initially thought the other shaft would still move. I kinda think it will. If I had a lsd I would of just left it... I now have a welded diff and I could really care less about the front diff being welded, For my plan I just didn't ever want the front passenger shaft to slip, I wanted it to always be engaged.




I'm excited to drive it, but I need a new bearing, I will make the awd work this wasn't necessary, but I wanted the front to be locked. I will explain more on this later, Next I will be worrying about the transfer case and really, I think I will be able to have the transfer case mounted soon.... If all goes well with the next step
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Old 06-23-2018, 02:17 PM   #118
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Cant see pictures
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Old 06-23-2018, 02:49 PM   #119
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Cant see pictures
I'm away from my computer currently but you can view the photos here in the mean time
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oZA9XdFEsni4UDCf6

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Old 08-05-2018, 08:22 PM   #120
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Still always checking back my dude!
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:37 PM   #121
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Thought I was the only one hah
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Old 08-31-2018, 04:23 AM   #122
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How are you travelling with this mate?

I'll be converting my auto at some point man and this will determine whether I go the e153 route or mod a c60

Hope you've been well after the year you've had

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Old 09-02-2018, 02:24 PM   #123
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Alright so a lot has been happening on my end. A lot of thinking about better ways to get this thing attached. I will touch more on that in this post, but first I would Like to talk a little about the welded diff and thank everyone for checking in to see how the progress is going.

in response to DatGTS00 going the e153 route would be easier as some models have the bolt pattern to accept the transfer case. So it would be easier, but more expensive.

I wanted to give the opportunity to give my research to people so we could possibly see more awd and rwd 7th gen celica.

So if you want to get it done faster get the e153 bolt on the rav4,lexus rx300, highlander transfer case as it looks like it will be the easiest to mount behind the 2zz. You have an auto so if you have a hold of a c60 it may possibly be cheaper, but harder to accomplish without all the study work done.

Still moving in to the house, I may have some extra time soon, So hopefully wont spend too much more on teasing everyone

I wanted to talk to everyone about the welded diff though for a second, It didnt take long for the weld to brake. I didn't want it to be locked all the time I wanted it to be welded sort of like a shim. That didn't work. it was locked up for a week or so and boy did I love that instant response of the wheels cornering felt so much better (in my opinion) but after romping on it a little and some pulls it broke loose. There is still something that locks up the diff though, I cant seem to figure it out it isn't locked at low speeds, but when you try to do a burnout(yes a fwd burnout looks dumb) its completely locked up.

Which is amazingly awesome for this project

Sorry I didn't post earlier everything is getting lost recently.



so whats the plan Stan? well I think I should look further at that, I think I may want to look at the rear end for a little. I will need to get some new wheel hubs that will accept the axle's from the rx300, Which from what I have gathered is the same as the from hubs from the celica, rav4,highlander. Which I might consider an upgrade to the celica ones as they use old school cotter pins rather than the punch style lock.

After that I will mount the rear diff and axles. Wont be too hard as the diff already fits just needs something to bolt too, For the transfer case It will be mounted independently from the transmission there are many reasons for my choice on this, but I will need to find a way to keep in that gear oil, the best I can think of is using that old coupler and creating a cap, sure the axle running through it should hold in most of the oil I dont like the smell of gear oil.

Unfortunately the one thing that I am not 100% will work is the open diff I have... I'm tired of taking out the tranny... I'm afraid that the extra weight in the back will cause the driver side wheel to slip and not spin the other three. That would kind of defeat the point. I have a couple of different Ideas on that now, but that what is holding up the final build and rewrite of the build thread...

Wish me luck and thank you for checking in this will be made
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Old 09-02-2018, 04:52 PM   #124
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Tbh, I was super excited when I had found GTS-Jason's thread, where he was planning to use e154F gear with the e153 kit from MWR

Unfortunately, we never did learn how everything could be notched to fit . If we did, I would have dropped the cash on it straight away. Everything seemed very smooth until that point

My engine is fully build with turbo plans in the future, so it would have been good to have e153 tranny strength, but I can easily get the upgraded helicals for the c60. My only gripe then would be the 6 speed ratios at that power level but what do you do? Unless there's something I'm missing?

I don't have the knownow to go notching blocks and transfer cases to fit, otherwise I would! I definitely have the disposable income though... Go figure

Had half a mind to go donating parts tbh haha. I would keep the celica for life if it was AWD so IMO donations for R&D would be worth it

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__________________
2000 Celica GTS
MWR 2.0L Stroker
12.3:1
Ported Head
MWR Stage 2 Cams
DDPR Intake Manifold w/ RMR Throttle Body
DDPR Custom SRI w/ Splash Box
Ported Stock Header
Custom 2.5" Midpipe
Tanabe Concept G Exhaust
Endless Zeal FunctionX+ Coilovers
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar
Hydra Tuned

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Old 09-02-2018, 06:47 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by DatGTS00 View Post
Tbh, I was super excited when I had found GTS-Jason's thread, where he was planning to use e154F gear with the e153 kit from MWR

Unfortunately, we never did learn how everything could be notched to fit . If we did, I would have dropped the cash on it straight away. Everything seemed very smooth until that point

My engine is fully build with turbo plans in the future, so it would have been good to have e153 tranny strength, but I can easily get the upgraded helicals for the c60. My only gripe then would be the 6 speed ratios at that power level but what do you do? Unless there's something I'm missing?

I don't have the knownow to go notching blocks and transfer cases to fit, otherwise I would! I definitely have the disposable income though... Go figure

Had half a mind to go donating parts tbh haha. I would keep the celica for life if it was AWD so IMO donations for R&D would be worth it

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Gts-Jason is what inspired me to continue what could have happened. I originally wanted to buy a tc years ago and there was a post on how to make that rwd by using celica parts, Later when I fell in love with the celica I thought of the same thing, just didn't have the money to do it at the time. Now I have the money, just not the time.... Funny how that works.

Anyways... The 154f could work... if you got a smaller transfer case. looking at some e153's you can see a bolt cover


With having that you should be able to bolt on a transfer case... as long as it isnt one from a mr2 if I remember correctly.



Still doesnt change too much as you would still need a diff... although I hear there is a conversion for a rav4 and a rav4 f transmission would be able to use the same adapter plate it being one with a 3s engine

As for everyone else. I wonder if the exhaust manifold would be a problem... the 1zz is shorter and not as big
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Old 09-07-2018, 11:04 PM   #126
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Alright.... so I've been thinking... Yes I know you smelt something awful recently. I just thought I should let you know....

Side note I'm going to try to make the Celica RWD this weekend...

Okay so that isnt a side note it's the reason for the post, but I thought with this post getting up to over 100+ posts and nothing really getting done, just the gowned work its time to finally get some Sh*t done

Let me explain what I will be doing and why. I'm sure everyone reading is probably asking why RWD? Must be a typo. Nope I will be working from the ground up. Make sense? we really need to figure how to send power to the rear end with what we have... I think it is more possible than what many would think.

Lets explain. First off how will we attach the transfer case. To be honest I will need to get 3 feet of flat iron not too much at lowes or home depot, although I would recommend getting it at a metal yard. (I will touch more on this in a bit)
I do best with images... So here we go!



You can notice one end is flat with 4 bolt holes to hold it to the differential. Lets just take a moment to think how that could be useful. So as far as thinking how to make a car RWD instead of making a full blown AWD right off the bat makes it alot less stressful and a little easier to handle. The reason I bring up that picture and how it is a plate on the end of an axle is because most of the Celicas are open diff. If you have a lsd I envy you... I will find one. Anyways How do we open diff members get 100% power to the transfer case. I got this idea when I was trying to figure out how to drive power to all wheels. It may sound hard or stupid, but it is perfectly fine.

I am sure almost all of us have been stuck in the mud/snow and we get just the one wheel spinning and the other stationary not moving or trying.

If you dont... Lucky you Look at this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5mfcSwomfY

So for an open diff is we can lock one axle the other will be the only thing getting power. Make sense why I brought up the picture of the flat bolt plate on an axle? No? well if we can bolt the axle to the chassis or something to keep it from spinning we can effectively send power to the other shaft. I know crazy scientist over here, but would you want to take a step in the right direction or keep searching. (To you people who doubt check the video and ask yourself if you really want this to work or just stick with the *wrong wheel drive*)

So... it will get crazier as I post more, but let me lay out my plan that i'm about 75% sure will work. I have checked and both the splines on the rx300,rav4,highlander have the same amount of splines and fit in the Celica hubs. So I am thinking if I move the front hubs to the back and the back to the front I will have two dummy wheels in the front now and ability to attach the diff and axles in the rear.

YAY

To keep this easy and because I am pretty sure this will work....
At this point it you have a lowered celica... I dont think this will work for you as I fear the drive shaft might be too low. More on this when it is actually built this is just me thinking right now.

Mods list?

Rx300,Highlander, 20012010 RAV4... Well anything with a u140f transmission.

You will need:

Transfer case
Rear differential
Rear axles
Three part drive shaft(Its important that its three parts to help maneuver around the gas tank)
Front Axles (optional)
Time

Pretty straight forward, you could use your stock front axles instead of the the others, but... there will be some cutting and welding so... best to have a extra set.

Going over my master plan in my head before the work commences...

1. Cut driver side axle
2. Weld flat plate onto axle
3. Drill 2 hole into passenger axle and intermediate shaft (Maybe)
4. Weld intermediate shaft to passenger axle to drive the transfer case (May just trust the bolt thing as I am not 100% sure this would be any benefit)
5. Use flat iron to mount the transfer case to block and make flat mount for the driver side axle.
6. Weld brackets to hold up rear diff
7. Move front wheel hubs to rear, and rear hubs to front.
8. Attach rear axles
9. Attach drive shaft.
10. Cross my fingers and hope it isn't a complete pipe dream as I see if it works

You guys can let me know what you think, but come tomorrow morning I will be trying to get S**t done
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:06 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakesFate View Post
Alright.... so I've been thinking... Yes I know you smelt something awful recently. I just thought I should let you know....

Side note I'm going to try to make the Celica RWD this weekend...

Okay so that isnt a side note it's the reason for the post, but I thought with this post getting up to over 100+ posts and nothing really getting done, just the gowned work its time to finally get some Sh*t done

Let me explain what I will be doing and why. I'm sure everyone reading is probably asking why RWD? Must be a typo. Nope I will be working from the ground up. Make sense? we really need to figure how to send power to the rear end with what we have... I think it is more possible than what many would think.

Lets explain. First off how will we attach the transfer case. To be honest I will need to get 3 feet of flat iron not too much at lowes or home depot, although I would recommend getting it at a metal yard. (I will touch more on this in a bit)
I do best with images... So here we go!



You can notice one end is flat with 4 bolt holes to hold it to the differential. Lets just take a moment to think how that could be useful. So as far as thinking how to make a car RWD instead of making a full blown AWD right off the bat makes it alot less stressful and a little easier to handle. The reason I bring up that picture and how it is a plate on the end of an axle is because most of the Celicas are open diff. If you have a lsd I envy you... I will find one. Anyways How do we open diff members get 100% power to the transfer case. I got this idea when I was trying to figure out how to drive power to all wheels. It may sound hard or stupid, but it is perfectly fine.

I am sure almost all of us have been stuck in the mud/snow and we get just the one wheel spinning and the other stationary not moving or trying.

If you dont... Lucky you Look at this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5mfcSwomfY

So for an open diff is we can lock one axle the other will be the only thing getting power. Make sense why I brought up the picture of the flat bolt plate on an axle? No? well if we can bolt the axle to the chassis or something to keep it from spinning we can effectively send power to the other shaft. I know crazy scientist over here, but would you want to take a step in the right direction or keep searching. (To you people who doubt check the video and ask yourself if you really want this to work or just stick with the *wrong wheel drive*)

So... it will get crazier as I post more, but let me lay out my plan that i'm about 75% sure will work. I have checked and both the splines on the rx300,rav4,highlander have the same amount of splines and fit in the Celica hubs. So I am thinking if I move the front hubs to the back and the back to the front I will have two dummy wheels in the front now and ability to attach the diff and axles in the rear.

YAY

To keep this easy and because I am pretty sure this will work....
At this point it you have a lowered celica... I dont think this will work for you as I fear the drive shaft might be too low. More on this when it is actually built this is just me thinking right now.

Mods list?

Rx300,Highlander, 20012010 RAV4... Well anything with a u140f transmission.

You will need:

Transfer case
Rear differential
Rear axles
Three part drive shaft(Its important that its three parts to help maneuver around the gas tank)
Front Axles (optional)
Time

Pretty straight forward, you could use your stock front axles instead of the the others, but... there will be some cutting and welding so... best to have a extra set.

Going over my master plan in my head before the work commences...

1. Cut driver side axle
2. Weld flat plate onto axle
3. Drill 2 hole into passenger axle and intermediate shaft (Maybe)
4. Weld intermediate shaft to passenger axle to drive the transfer case (May just trust the bolt thing as I am not 100% sure this would be any benefit)
5. Use flat iron to mount the transfer case to block and make flat mount for the driver side axle.
6. Weld brackets to hold up rear diff
7. Move front wheel hubs to rear, and rear hubs to front.
8. Attach rear axles
9. Attach drive shaft.
10. Cross my fingers and hope it isn't a complete pipe dream as I see if it works

You guys can let me know what you think, but come tomorrow morning I will be trying to get S**t done
Sounds good, take this opportunity and take advantage of capitalism and make a kit / service to do this.
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:42 PM   #128
DatGTS00
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How are you going with this?
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2000 Celica GTS
MWR 2.0L Stroker
12.3:1
Ported Head
MWR Stage 2 Cams
DDPR Intake Manifold w/ RMR Throttle Body
DDPR Custom SRI w/ Splash Box
Ported Stock Header
Custom 2.5" Midpipe
Tanabe Concept G Exhaust
Endless Zeal FunctionX+ Coilovers
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar
Hydra Tuned
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Old 12-02-2018, 01:35 PM   #129
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Thought you guys might like to see this! A dude in one of the FB groups is putting together a complete, 100% bolt RWD conversion kit for the 7th Gen GTS.

I wonder how much of it could be utilised towards an AWD plan.

There's links to 2 of his posts here. One roughly lists the parts and the other is the near-completion post

https://m.facebook.com/groups/913944...43922219103358

https://www.facebook.com/groups/9139...7116885450558/

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2000 Celica GTS
MWR 2.0L Stroker
12.3:1
Ported Head
MWR Stage 2 Cams
DDPR Intake Manifold w/ RMR Throttle Body
DDPR Custom SRI w/ Splash Box
Ported Stock Header
Custom 2.5" Midpipe
Tanabe Concept G Exhaust
Endless Zeal FunctionX+ Coilovers
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar
Hydra Tuned
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Old 03-07-2019, 10:57 PM   #130
luizee1
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BUMP!! Any updates??????????????????
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Old 04-10-2019, 07:16 PM   #131
2jz-style
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Celica AWD Build thread

Just confirmed today, yes the 1nz 1zr are the same c56/c60/u341e transaxle case.

We tried to find alternative engines rather bellhouses but the 'big boys' a246e from 6g celica and u240e from 7g celica are not 1zr 1nz.

Retro: JDM corolla 1zz ecm will retro fit the a540f series into a 7g celica, (without cluster) this will need to be proven over the next year.

Note: 17p (5th plug) is this for 2zz drive by wire? preassure signals are a bit off.

Edit: Rav4 1zz or avensis also use a241e.

*USDM matrix/corolla ecm are identical.



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Old 04-11-2019, 11:22 PM   #132
ZZTMike
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Oh snap Corning CA? I live in Redding
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Old 04-12-2019, 12:00 AM   #133
luizee1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZTMike View Post
Oh snap Corning CA? I live in Redding
If youre the guy im thinking off I think we met before at Pick N Pull?
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Old 04-12-2019, 07:23 PM   #134
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https://www.newcelica.org/forums/sho....php?p=6139041

I think it's safe to rule out this post as well. 03-08 rear diff is essentially 09-13 only the coupling is updated with electro-magnetic. See how there's a wire & connector and the transfer case may look different. Also seeing a (venza) 4wd ecu 89630-73010

If this is true the rear sub & diff should be the same but rarely have I ever been near a 09-13 with (awd) not to mention peek at someone's undercarriage :o

Fits 2009-2013 Toyota Matrix, 2009-2013 Toyota Venza and 2009-2010 Pontiac Vibe.

Toyota Rav4 2006-2012, 2010-2013 Sienna,

Toyota Part #s 4130368012; 4130368010; 4130368011; 4130328013; 4130342023

GM Part #s 19205423; 19205602

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Old 04-16-2019, 05:07 AM   #135
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Here's another video similar to the OP's discovery only this guy has the straght up answer, I wish I found this sooner and cut down the confusion.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=BMv_v9IBugU

It almost shows the nestle of the transfer case agaist the block and the venza rear suspension is from an rx300 correct me, I ony watched the video once so far..

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Old 05-02-2019, 07:30 PM   #136
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Getting parts for real, 40$ no plans for the rear yet, these frames are known to break during late stage cancer. This one is still early stage cancer( home grown) Sandblast or rustcoat ideas anyone?

If you're tuning in just now this frame props up your steering rack for the drive shaft clearance.

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Old 05-24-2019, 05:21 AM   #137
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Why not ditch the 2zz and go with the 2ar?
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Old 06-13-2019, 07:47 PM   #138
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Another 40$ minus the rear diff and regarding the spring rates it's been documented before but getting a first look of the suspension compare to other rear sizes :

OEM zzt230 10mm
TRD zzt231 12mm
4WD zze123 14mm

I can see if the rear cradle mount the sub upside down, the drain plug will face down, why it points upward is beyond me.

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Old 06-14-2019, 02:50 PM   #139
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Seeing today how the control arms are cut I noted the similar distance span between the subgtame tags and cradle mounts.. I'd be damned if there was a match..

Soon enough I ripped the cradle off the diff and plugged it into the subframe like it was meant to be there..

Pros n' cons are it's nowhere near the hubs and just off the ground. It's too crowded for the diff and won't nestle upsidedown.

I can't say 100% since the car isn't off the ground where I can see further into this but it's very likely the cradle will be incorporated into the forward towers of this subframe, (existing axle muffler) in total there are six bolts.

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