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Old 11-14-2010, 08:24 AM   #1
PETER PAN 2009
 
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Easy way to replace drive belt in Celica GTS 2000- 2005 2ZZ engine with A/C

Quick and easy way to replace drive belt in Celica GTS 2000- 2005 2ZZ engine with A/C

Belt should be inspected every year or 10K miles, and replaced about 50K miles.

Material:

(TOYOTA P/N TOY99366J1940 retailed $90),

or after market Good Year makes the old Gator Back belt with grooves, supposedly grips better and low noise, now branded and sold in eBay: GOOD YEAR Continental Elite 4060764 Poly-V / Serpentine Belt $26 reviews 4.7 out of 5

Tools: Tensioner tool loaned by Autozone, 19 mm shallow hex head, or combined vice grip and extension tube

There is only 1 belt that drives all accessories off the main engine crank shaft. If the drive belt breaks while you are driving, you will lose power steering and coolant pump, not to mention the A/C and alternator. If you continue driving, the engine will overheat within 5 to 10 minutes, potentially cracked or seized up, not the chance you want to take. You should pull over and stop the engine immediately.

The drive belt is scheduled replacement at 60K miles per factory recommendations. Check the belt regularly every oil change. If there are more than 10 cracks per inch on the grooved surface, it should be replaced.

There is no tension adjustment on this belt. The belt fits tight over the pulleys and kept in tension by a strut tensioner bolted onto the engine block on the passenger side. You are supposed to release the tension on the belt by turning the 19 mm aluminum hex head near the tensioner strut clockwise, downward. Autozone loans out a 3/8 inch tensioner tool to be used with a shallow 19 mm hex. Very easy to release the tensioner with this tool.

In case the 19 mm hex head has been damaged and cannot be used, instead use a vice grip on the hex head or wedge a big allen wrench lever between the hex head and the round base of the mounting bolt. Add a 12-inch steel tube extension for leverage to release the tensioner. It may be wise to tape the allen wrench in place.

Need 2 persons to do this procedure

1. Leave car on the ground. You dont need to get under the car. Remove the plastic baffle over the engine on passenger side. This is the only part that needs to be removed for this procedure.

2. Remove the old belt, if not broken, by releasing the tensioner while removing the loose belt from the alternator's pulley.

3. Check and clean debris and oil/grease off pulleys.

4. Start routing the new belt from the large crank pulley in the back of engine. Pull all loose belt forward toward front of the engine. This is the best way to keep the loose belt in place while routing it over the other pulleys.

5. From the bottom Thread the belt over all pulley from the bottom pulley toward the front, leave the top part of the belt loose near the alternator's pulley, in the sequence in the picture below.

6. When you get to the alternator's pulley at top front of engine, hold the belt next to that pulley while having the other guy release the tensioner with the tool, giving the belt enough slack to get over and into the alternator's pulley.

7. Crank the engine in a short burst and have the other guy check to make sure belt fits properly over all pulleys. Crank a couple short bursts to check fit. If engine runs without any unusual noise, then you are OK.

If done properly it's a pretty easy and quick procedure, in about 10 to 15 minutes with experience. The belt should be inspected regularly and replaced every 50K miles to make sure you wont have a broken belt and overheat the engine while driving.

Here's the pic for the routing sequence:

https://goo.gl/photos/nhEYrcHpNXYBiRbT8

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 07-31-2017 at 10:55 PM..
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:54 PM   #2
PETER PAN 2009
 
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Check this belt every 10K miles and replace every 50K miles just to be safe.

Good luck guys.

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 04-26-2016 at 05:26 PM..
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:45 AM   #3
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you should have no problems posting pictures. What i really want to know is how you ise a 1/4 inch allen wrench and how you simply just dont bend the hell out of it.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:14 AM   #4
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:11 AM   #5
PETER PAN 2009
 
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The 1/4 inch allen wrench

I could not find ways to post pics in this forum. Will try again.

The 1/4 inch allen wrench would not bend. I used the same wrench a few times on 2 different GTS now. It has not bent.

If your 19 mm aluminum dead hex head is still intact, the best way is to borrow the tensioner tool from Auto Zone and use it with a shallow 19 mm hex head.

You can try to use a good closed-end box wrench on it with extension, but it's tricky.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smaay View Post
you should have no problems posting pictures. What i really want to know is how you ise a 1/4 inch allen wrench and how you simply just dont bend the hell out of it.

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 04-26-2016 at 04:27 PM..
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:10 AM   #6
vegeta4ss
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I just use the hex head on the side of the tensioner. Lock together two wrenches and pull. Would be even easier if I had one of those long metal bars that came as part of a serpentine belt kit.

to post pictures, upload them somewhere such as photobucket or imageshack. Copy the link it gives you to your clipboard.

The syntax for posting pictures is this: (omit the apostrophes)
'[img]url to your picture[/img]'
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:26 AM   #7
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I use one of those serpentine belt bars and a grip tite socket no problems.
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:31 PM   #8
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http://www.toolbarn.com/gearwrench-3680.html?ref=base
much better than a 1'4 allen wrench
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:26 PM   #9
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Thanks Peter Pan for your write up, im closing this thread and moving it to engine maint.
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