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Old 07-20-2016, 03:54 PM   #351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyRosario2 View Post
Ugh so it's that little thing with the blue plug?!
Yes

There is a tab you press to release the clip holding the Blue connector on.
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Old 07-20-2016, 04:01 PM   #352
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Toyota EVAP Drive Cycle

Posting this for future reference.
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File Type: pdf EVAP drive test.pdf (11.8 KB, 165 views)
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Old 08-17-2016, 12:32 PM   #353
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This thread is awesome and still going strong 9 years down the road.

I have studied EVAP systems for some time now and though I still have questions unanswered I also have a good working knowledge of EVAP systems.

So, lets talk.

Here's my deal.

About 10 years ago I bought my first vehicle that had to be ODB II compliant, prior to this I owned vehicles that were exempt (1995 and older). Well I been turning wrenches since I was a kid, 57 now, so 47 when I started learning about OBD II. What a curve for those who are not formally taught in OBD II, and those who don't have advanced diagnostic tools.

My goal has always been to make diagnostics and repair available for the do-it-yourselfer without having to buy thousands in tools and equipment specific to the job.

As has been explained earlier in this thread, OBD II is most commonly two separate systems, engine efficiency being one system, and capture/recycling of gas/fuel fumes the other.

Engine efficency systems:

This where you'll find things like O2 sensors, and MAP sensors and crankshaft position sensors and so fourth. While codes related to engine efficiency can be difficult to understand and repair, it is my experience that the average person with a decent background in mechanics can pin point problems and make repairs himself if he has a simple hand held code reader.

EVAP systems:

This is where you'll find things like the carbon canister, VSV's, purge solenoids, vacuum pressure sensors, the gas tank and related items, many feet of vacuum lines (metal and rubber). The EVAP system can be extremely difficult to diagnose and repair, small leaks being very hard to find, and restrictions in valves/solenoids and vacuum lines also being very hard to pinpoint. The EVAP system can at times be challenging to sort out.

I'm going to post a little in here about a few things that I've learned in the last ten years, short cuts, retro fits, what works for me. Now, all of that being said, let me say that I'm no expert, I still make mistakes, and I'm always open to constructive criticism, let us learn and move forward together.
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:02 AM   #354
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How to find a Small EVAP leak without a smoke machine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg4AEe_xWo4
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:24 PM   #355
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So anyways...

The VSV on the carbon canister is the final valve, it's purpose is to seal the system when the vacuum leak test is being conducted (VSV energized), the rest of the time this valve is open (not energized).

So, if the valve is frozen in the open position, as was the case with mine, the vacuum test can not be conducted, this condition will trigger codes.
Gross leak would probably one of the codes, there might be others.
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)

This VSV stuck in the closed position will probably trigger one or more of the following.
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction


P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0450 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
P0456 Evaporative Emissions System Small Leak Detected
P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
P0458 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Low
P0459 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit High

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
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Old 08-18-2016, 05:52 PM   #356
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A couple a simplified examples EVAP systems.

Note how the VSV on the canister is the last valve in the circuit, consider how when open it allows venting, but when closed it seals the system, allowing for a vacuum test.





During the vacuum test, the VSV on the canister is closed and the purge solenoid is opened, this allows the engine to create vacuum in the EVAP system, a vacuum pressure sensor detects the amount of vacuum pulled and its stability, measuring if it holds steady or if it leaks, and how quickly it leaks, if indeed it does leak.
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Old 08-24-2016, 12:21 PM   #357
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There is a ton of useful information on this thread for resolving evap ODB codes, but some of it may be out of date. It is also hard to identify these parts from some online parts diagrams.

Just to confirm that the current part number for the vacuum switch on the canister near the fuel tank is 90910-12264 (labelled "valve, vacuum switch" on the box).

I just bought one to resolve the P0446 code on my 00 GTS so it will pass our Ontario e-test. The old valve came out with the evap canister in a rusted mess and was stuck in the open position (the default position is closed).

This part is called the "VSV for pressure switching valve" in the shop manual and its test is on pages SF60 - 61 (page 202-203 of 1152 in Volume 2 of the .pdf manual)

For my fellow Canucks, I bought it from www.toyotaonlineparts.com in Richmond VA USA -> they will ship to Canada which many US Toyota dealers will not do for dealer only parts. It cost $58 USD including shipping by USPS and they were very efficient and pleasant to deal with.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-22-2017, 12:05 PM   #358
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I went to a shop to replace the main engine mount. They jacked up the engine so probably loosened the exhaust pipe. The exhaust makes rapping noise when I accelerate. Most likely the exhaust gasket is leaking.

Now the car has P0420 Inefficient CAT, P0440, 0441 and P0446 have to do with the evaporative control system.

Any bro had experience with these codes? I think the leaky exhuast gasket caused the codes. If I replace the gasket, these codes shoud go away.

What do the bros think?
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Old 01-23-2017, 05:08 AM   #359
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How long ago was the repair done? I would take the car back and get the garage to fix the issues.

In my experience, the P0420 may be related to an exhaust leak above the cat converter.

The P0440-41 and 0446 are all evap related, so something in the gas evap system is not working as designed. A bad gas cap should be verified first, as it must seal the system for it all to work.

You didn't specify which of the 4 engine mounts were replaced. Maybe the lads disconnected/forgot to hook up an evap line when they were changing a mount.

Look for the cheap/obvious fix first. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-30-2017, 04:57 PM   #360
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The shop replaced the main rear mount. They jacked up the engine and transmission in 2 separate places to remove the mount. They must have knocked loose the joint between the manifold and the pipe because the engine was not making that leaking noise before.

The shop put the car on the lift but they refused to touch anything on the pipe for fear of breaking something else.

Brought the car to a local German specialist. He listened to the pipe with a stethoscope and confirm the 3-inch gasket was leaking. He also found the engine moves too much due to a damaged after-market front engine mount with the rubber bushing all torn up. The after market mounts lasted only 40K compared to 220K with the OEM mount. So buy only OEM mount.

I ordered a gasket for $20 from a Toy dealer in Michigan. The local dealer wanted $40. These German guys seem to really know cars and their systems. They fixed a lot of MBZs and BMWs but prices were very reasonable. Will be going to them for repairs form now on.

The P0420, P0440 to P0446 went away, probably a loose gas cap. After replacing the gasket and front mount, the car should be perfect again.

Last Friday I had lunch date with a business woman. I did not want to drive her in a jerky car, so I asked to go in her car, a brand-new MBZ M450 SUV. She wants to go on a trip next week so my car has to be perfect, or I wont score...hehe.


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Originally Posted by dentman View Post
How long ago was the repair done? I would take the car back and get the garage to fix the issues.

In my experience, the P0420 may be related to an exhaust leak above the cat converter.

The P0440-41 and 0446 are all evap related, so something in the gas evap system is not working as designed. A bad gas cap should be verified first, as it must seal the system for it all to work.

You didn't specify which of the 4 engine mounts were replaced. Maybe the lads disconnected/forgot to hook up an evap line when they were changing a mount.

Look for the cheap/obvious fix first. Hope this helps.
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:37 AM   #361
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Glad you sorted out the issues and relatively cheaply.
Good luck with the rest of your challenge!
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:59 AM   #362
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Swapping gas cap did not do away the P0440, P0441 and P0446 CEL codes.

I was always having problem filling the gas tank every time with the nozzle getting shut off after short squirts. Based on the info in this thread, I suspected the charcoal canister on top of the gas tank was full due to the VSV being closed off, instead of normally open to let the fuel vapor out to the throttle body.

To eliminate the other possible failure. I swapped in a known-good PURGE VSV at the throttle body (TOYOTA #25860-22050). This good VSV was tested NORMALLY CLOSED, by blowing into the hose. It did not clear up the P0440, P0441, P0446 codes.

Local TOYOTA dealer wants to sell the charcoal canister with BYPASS VSV for about $500. I ordered the DENSO's OEM BYPASS VSV (TOYOTA #90910-12264) on eBay from a TOYOTA dealer in Seattle for $35.

There are many identical-looking VSVs (not DENSO branded) sold in eBay from China for about $17, probably copies or counterfeits, but it was not worth the risk due to the difficult and labor intensive access to replace this part.

Blowing air in and found the VSV NORMALLY OPEN, so had a local mechanic jack up the rear of the car, loosen the gas goose neck, loosen the exhaust pipe connection, lower the gas tank, remove the old VSV and screw in the new VSV. He has never done it before and was in learning mode, but was able to do it all in about 45 minutes and charged only $30 for labor. With experience, it could be done in about half hour.

Blew air through the old VSV and found it closed off solid, so it failed. All codes were reset. Filling gas tank can now be done without nozzle shut off. Ran about 1,000 miles so far. Engine is smooth, whining sweetly. Gas mileage seemed better and no CEL ever came back.

I just avoided my ass being ripped off for $700 by my local TOYOTA dealer.

BTW, CEL code P0314 showed up, cylinder 4 misfiring. The $10 ignition coil copies, with life-time warranty, just failed after 5,000 mile. Crap. I replaced with the OEM coil and car runs fine.


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Originally Posted by PETER PAN 2009 View Post
The P0440, P0441 to P0446 went away, probably a loose gas cap. After replacing the gasket and front mount, the car should be perfect again.

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 09-21-2017 at 02:12 PM..
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Old 09-12-2017, 05:57 AM   #363
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A quick question - Which valve did you replace with part 90910-12264? That is the valve attached to the charcoal canister behind the gas tank on my Celica.

I changed it without dropping the gas tank simply by attaching the two vacuum lines from the canister and electrical connector to it and tie wrapping the valve to the bracket on the canister (the old one just broke off the bracket when disturbed).

Still a pain to get to (have to remove the heat shields) but not as much as dropping the tank.

Hope it fixes all the codes. I did on my car.
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:19 PM   #364
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90910-12264 is the NORMALLY OPEN Vac Switching Valve on top of the gas tank's canister.

Lowering the gas tank was a pain. How did you remove the heat shield and replace the VSV without lowering it? Other bros may want to use that quick procedure.

You dont really need to screw the VSV in. As long as you tie down the valve securely onto something solid, it should be OK. If left loose and knocked around too much, it may have shorter life.

All my CEL codes were cleared. Good job on your infos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dentman View Post
A quick question - Which valve did you replace with part 90910-12264? That is the valve attached to the charcoal canister behind the gas tank on my Celica.

I changed it without dropping the gas tank simply by attaching the two vacuum lines from the canister and electrical connector to it and tie wrapping the valve to the bracket on the canister (the old one just broke off the bracket when disturbed).

Still a pain to get to (have to remove the heat shields) but not as much as dropping the tank.

Hope it fixes all the codes. I did on my car.
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:03 AM   #365
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So we are both talking about the same part.

You confused me when you said the valve had to be screwed in with the tank dropped. It is attached to the canister with a single rusty 10 mm bolt through a rusty metal bracket and two short vacuum lines.

I tested the valve by applying 12v power and some compressed air to it and seeing if it clicked/flowed air or not. No click -> no air flow change = stuck valve.

The layered heat shields can be unbolted from the bottom of the gas tank and from above the exhaust (and in front of the rear wheel carrier) to gain access to the canister (which is bolted to the car's floor with 3 rusty 10 mm nuts). It is high up there, is dirty, and a PITA, but is accessible.

Good luck to all fixing this issue.
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Old 10-06-2017, 01:35 PM   #366
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P0440, P0441 and P0446 CEL codes came back

Put in a brand-mew DENSO's OEM BYPASS VSV (TOYOTA #90910-12264). After driving about 500 miles, P0440, P0441 and P0446 CEL codes came back.

I still have problem pumping fuel in, getting cut off every 1 gallon or so, regardless how I position the nozzle.

I have a habit of filling the gas tank completely full. Perhaps gas overflowed into the charcoal cannister and corrupt the charcoal.

Looks like I will have to replace the charcoal cannister. Toyota OEM Fuel Vapor Canister 77740-20512 sells for about $250 to $300 in eBay. I dont trust after market brands. Had too many problems with them.

Can any bro suggest another diagnostic to pin down the source of the problem?



Quote:
Originally Posted by PETER PAN 2009 View Post
Swapping gas cap did not do away the P0440, P0441 and P0446 CEL codes.

I was always having problem filling the gas tank every time with the nozzle getting shut off after short squirts. Based on the info in this thread, I suspected the charcoal canister on top of the gas tank was full due to the VSV being closed off, instead of normally open to let the fuel vapor out to the throttle body.

Local TOYOTA dealer wants to sell the charcoal canister with BYPASS VSV for about $500. I ordered the DENSO's OEM BYPASS VSV (TOYOTA #90910-12264) on eBay from a TOYOTA dealer in Seattle for $35.

There are many identical-looking VSVs (not DENSO branded) sold in eBay from China for about $17, probably copies or counterfeits, but it was not worth the risk due to the difficult and labor intensive access to replace this part.

Blowing air in and found the VSV NORMALLY OPEN, so had a local mechanic jack up the rear of the car, loosen the gas goose neck, loosen the exhaust pipe connection, lower the gas tank, remove the old VSV and screw in the new VSV. He has never done it before and was in learning mode, but was able to do it all in about 45 minutes and charged only $30 for labor. With experience, it could be done in about half hour.

Blew air through the old VSV and found it closed off solid, so it failed. All codes were reset. Filling gas tank can now be done without nozzle shut off. Ran about 1,000 miles so far. Engine is smooth, whining sweetly. Gas mileage seemed better and no CEL ever came back.
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Old 10-06-2017, 07:46 PM   #367
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Probably not a bad charcoal filter. It only deals with vapors. Granted, there's a chance of vapor block. The only issue I remember involving fueling is the recall for the fuel tank check valve on late '02-early '03 models.

Other than a smoke test, pretty much all the diagnostic info is in this thread. It can be a very frustrating process.

If I had to guess, I'd check the CCV & Purge and the lines to them. P0440 indicates a large leak. P0441 indicates it doesn't see vacuum when the Purge VSV is operated (bad Purge VSV, CCV didn't close, or a leak). P0446 indicates CCV or bypass VSV (which you've already replaced).

There are steel lines which may have been damaged when they did the rear mount.
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Old 10-08-2017, 05:52 PM   #368
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Thanks for your suggestion.

Will check the CCV and the vacuum lines next.


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Probably not a bad charcoal filter. It only deals with vapors. Granted, there's a chance of vapor block. The only issue I remember involving fueling is the recall for the fuel tank check valve on late '02-early '03 models.

Other than a smoke test, pretty much all the diagnostic info is in this thread. It can be a very frustrating process.

If I had to guess, I'd check the CCV & Purge and the lines to them. P0440 indicates a large leak. P0441 indicates it doesn't see vacuum when the Purge VSV is operated (bad Purge VSV, CCV didn't close, or a leak). P0446 indicates CCV or bypass VSV (which you've already replaced).

There are steel lines which may have been damaged when they did the rear mount.
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Old 10-20-2017, 09:39 PM   #369
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Smog check will skip EVAP flag

A smog technician in CA just told me SMOG check will not look at EVAP flag.

If there are no P0440, 0441, 0446 CEL, SMOG will pass even if there is EVAP flag. A car with EVAP flag passed SMOG today.
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Old 11-23-2017, 10:32 AM   #370
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I replaced the Canister bypass valve with an OEM VSV. All 3 codes came back: P0440, 0441, 0446.

I tested the old VSV taken from the canister. When applied 12 V the valve opened up, passing air from port E (connector side) to port F. So this switch was good. It was not the cause for the 3 codes.

I swapped the Purge VSV (Norm closed) and gas cap with known good ones. Did not solve the problem.

The only VSV left is the CCV Closed canister valve under the airbox, which should be NORMALLY OPEN. I tested this valve and it was open.

Is there another VSV inside the airbox for airflow control?

Will also check all vacuum lines for leaks and proper connections.

The problem could also be cracks in the FUEL CHECK VALVE on top of the gas tank as one of the bros found out. Never smelled any gas vapor around the car, but will check it next.

It's pain to have to get under the car and drop the gas tank to check these parts.

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P0440, 0441, 0446 CEL
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Old 11-23-2017, 03:51 PM   #371
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You can get to the top of the tank via the access panel under the rear seat. Purge, CCV, and Bypass are the only actively switched valves related to EVAP.

Odd as it may be, there's also a chance that the pressure sensor might be bad. Or, as you mentioned, a leaky check valve.

I know it's frustrating! In reviewing the TSB for EVAP, a P0440 indicates a leak on the tank side. However, a P0441 indicates an inability to create a vacuum. So, w/o vacuum pressure, the tank will stay @ atmosphere and cause a P0440. Round & round we go. Sorry you're having so much trouble. The only other thing I can possibly suggest is picking up a handheld vac pump w/gauge, clamping off various hoses, and checking for leaks.

Where this all happened around the time of the mount repair, I'm still suspicious that the metal EVAP line from the Purge VSV to the rear, or from the CCV to the rear, might have been damaged.
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Old 11-24-2017, 06:18 PM   #372
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There is no fuel smell around the car. I will check but dont think the stainless steel fuel lines can be easily damaged.

the car will pass smog with EVAP flag. I just want to make it perfect before selling this Celica with smooth engine and transmission, good looking, never in accident.

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You can get to the top of the tank via the access panel under the rear seat. Purge, CCV, and Bypass are the only actively switched valves related to EVAP.

Odd as it may be, there's also a chance that the pressure sensor might be bad. Or, as you mentioned, a leaky check valve.

I know it's frustrating! In reviewing the TSB for EVAP, a P0440 indicates a leak on the tank side. However, a P0441 indicates an inability to create a vacuum. So, w/o vacuum pressure, the tank will stay @ atmosphere and cause a P0440. Round & round we go. Sorry you're having so much trouble. The only other thing I can possibly suggest is picking up a handheld vac pump w/gauge, clamping off various hoses, and checking for leaks.

Where this all happened around the time of the mount repair, I'm still suspicious that the metal EVAP line from the Purge VSV to the rear, or from the CCV to the rear, might have been damaged.

Last edited by PETER PAN 2009; 11-27-2017 at 10:05 PM..
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Old 06-04-2019, 10:07 AM   #373
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Well, after 11yrs & another engine, I popped a P0440 & P0446 two days ago. The shop that replaced the engine put the Purge VSV behind the intake & the hose going to the manifold managed to chafe a hole through it. Cut the hose back, relocated the VSV, and all is well again.
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Old 06-05-2019, 09:47 PM   #374
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Mine finally popped up and have been studying this to try and fix it.... although I may have crossed hoses or left something out as I just cleaned my iacv..... and they've been popping on and off...
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:30 PM   #375
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Bought an used charcoal canister. Costed $100 to install.

The codes kept showing but all cleared out after 6 months
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:31 PM   #376
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Grrr.... popped another P0440.... found another leak..... hose @ EVAP test port was clamped w/a regular hose clamp that was REALLY tightened & cut the hose.
Fingers crossed that this does the trick.
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Old 06-27-2019, 03:56 PM   #377
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Grrr....... popped 2 codes again. Found a hole in the hose from the test port to the VSV. Also found a hole in the hose going to the CCV. Obviously, they are all aging. So, I'm just going to go to the store & grab a hunk of new hose & replace them all. However, when I checked, everything had readied up. So, I think I got it this time. Time will tell. In the meantime, I'll pick up new hose.
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