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Old 01-14-2013, 08:49 PM   #451
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just gotta put some good rubber on these things. They have real summer tire now so I'll use those for trackdays and get some good rubber for AUTOX
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:53 PM   #452
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Nice. Why you hidin' the caliper?
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:45 AM   #453
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So who's coming to the dixie match tour? And if I can't find a co-driver would anyone like to do an arrive and drive with me? Plans aren't completely set in stone but I'm 95% sure ill be in Georgia in march. Hope to get some better numbers for g stock this year.
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Old 01-19-2013, 01:58 PM   #454
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And if I can't find a co-driver would anyone like to do an arrive and drive with me?
What weekend is this? I'm tempted. Depends on getting time off from work, available funds, etc.
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:17 PM   #455
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March 15-17 is the dixie match tour
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:26 PM   #456
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Barring any unforseen issues, I will be at Dixie. Talked to Steve today and he is planning on being there as well. It would be great if we could get at least 5 there. GS really needs to show some good participation this year!
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:24 AM   #457
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All this race talk is making my heart race, bastards!

Now I'm thinking about this too. The main hurdle is having blown my budget last year and going into the hole with the new-to-me Celica acquisition and build. I would like to do the rear shocks and I definitely need at least a pair of Hoosiers as I smoked one down to the steel belts at the end of the season.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:20 PM   #458
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^:

cant wait!!!! Just got the new SCCA issue and the tire rack add has 225/45/17 Hankook R-S3's for $103!!!!!
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:01 PM   #459
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Don't jump the gun yet word on the street is the new bfgoodrich gforce rival is a pretty badass street tire. A large group of soloist just tested them and all reviews were positive. I have a few calls to make before finalizing plans for dixie. I'd like to make a class as well since our weekend is cut short because of the match tour format which is very course/weather dependant to make the challenge rounds. I still wish they would have used a prosolo style index where class winners get in and it goes off your class index. Oh well still will be fun. I still gotta pick up some fresh tires and then it'll be time to relearn the car with the new upgrades.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:28 PM   #460
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AFAIK there's no 225/45-15 listed. And wasn't the roll-out test session without lap timing, so pretty subjective? Clearly a good tire, but maybe not a game changer for our cars. Know even less about the new Dunlop. It's nice that manufacturers are still trying to compete and improve.

Edit: Tire Rack is now showing a 225/45-15, but availability isn't until end of March. Additional testing says it's at least comparable to the RS-3 but better low temperature capability and maybe better in rain.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:41 PM   #461
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I'm 90% sure my mom and I will co-drive my car this season. Its going to be interesting.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:57 PM   #462
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Registered for dixie and I'm bringing a codriver so as long as Steve comes we will have a least 5 in class mark. Can't wait I'm getting cabin fever here in the northeast I need some autox. I'm making due with indoor carting but its not the same. see you guys in Georgia in a month.
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:10 PM   #463
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Awesome! I saw you registered. I know the guy in the Neon but never ran against him. Can't wait to get back behind the wheel!
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:24 PM   #464
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If there are any Celicas running GS or RTF at the San Diego tour or El Toro Prosolo, I'm looking for a codrive. I have 7 years experience in the car until mine oil starved at a track event (bonus: I will religiously check your oil).
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:53 AM   #465
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If there are any Celicas running GS or RTF at the San Diego tour or El Toro Prosolo, I'm looking for a codrive. I have 7 years experience in the car until mine oil starved at a track event (bonus: I will religiously check your oil).
I'd like to oblige but I just recently blew the bottom end out of mine down at San Diego. Fixed now...but I'm still nervous. I'm thinking the tranny has just as many miles as that engine. I probably shouldn't have started with a 150k-mile beater.

BTW, on the subject of replacement drivetrain components, I know it's common to fit MR2 engines which are considered identical, but what about trannys? Even if an MR2 tranny is not a total drop-in, can you mix & match major parts of it and still retain identical ratios and appearance? I'd like to find a replacement now, before I actually need it.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:11 PM   #466
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I'd like to oblige but I just recently blew the bottom end out of mine down at San Diego. Fixed now...but I'm still nervous. I'm thinking the tranny has just as many miles as that engine. I probably shouldn't have started with a 150k-mile beater.
Mine had 191k before it kicked the bucket. Glad you got yours running again. Mine is in a junkyard.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:48 PM   #467
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Bill,

Is there any way that you can either confirm or deny the fitment of Scion TC rear Koni yellows to the rear of the Celica? Even it is just the fact that people have bought them for a Celica.

Also, since you posted camber bolt part numbers curious about which ones you use and what alignment settings... I'm buying my Celica this Saturday and want to hit the ground running.

One other question for anyone that knows... for SCCA Solo stock class - the camber bolts HAVE to be dealer bolts I assume?
The koni yellows for celica gts are ddiscontinued but I called koni USA and he found me a set from Canada and the guy had a couple extra sets.that was last year though.and be ready to spend some cheddar mine cost like a grand for the set of 4
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:41 PM   #468
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What!!!!!! I hope they are mint or dual adjustable for that money. I called KONI 3 weeks ago.

Shorten, revalve, DA conversions on all 4 will cost $2000 and take 3 months.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:43 PM   #469
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Shorten, revalve, DA conversions on all 4 will cost $2000 and take 3 months.
Call ProParts USA. Can't promise it'll be cheaper but they can turn your shocks around faster than Koni.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:23 PM   #470
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If anyone needs a good deal on a set of lightweight GS legal wheels, I have a set of Konig Sweurve wheels ready to go in the FS section.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:13 PM   #471
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2013 Ford Focus ST in GS?

So, is the new hotrod Ford Focus ST the new ringer in GS? I see that three of them are registered to run this Saturday at Champaign County Sports Car Club. I'm tempted to go down there to see how far off I am. They're all registered in RTF-GS as I would be, but my car and maybe tires may not be ready by Sat.

Having similar numbers to the Mazdaspeed 3 - I'm surprised that it is in GS and not DS with almost twice the power and more than twice torque of the Celica GT. Does it have an LSD or an option? I suppose it handles too.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:25 PM   #472
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Kind of a bad time to be developing a new car for GS given the recent SCCA proposal on doing away with stock next year. Of course it may not happen.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:40 PM   #473
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I think "doing away with stock" might be putting it a little strongly. But major changes are being discussed, that's for sure. I would think the Focus ST would be a stronger car with the changes they're talking about.

It's an interesting proposal. I'm not certain it will be good for the Celica, unless they also do a fair amount of reclassing. But if this stuff goes through, I think it will take a few years for it all to shake out.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:17 AM   #474
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I don't think it's an overstatement. Even the name goes away. Conceptually it's proposed to be something like street-touring lite.

There was an embedded comment about doing general reclassing at the same time so I wouldn't think anyone knows what will come out on top. I don't remember it stated specifically, but I assume the RT classes would get swept up by this too?

We'll see how the ground-swell goes. This might easily get shot down.

As to the Focus ST, it's a pretty impressive car in several respects. But I believe it's HEAVY. If the SRT4 comparison is valid it should be competitive on zoomy courses but maybe less so on technical slalom-intensive courses like typical Lincoln.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:28 AM   #475
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I grabbed a recent copy of R&T magazine at home last night to look up the stats and compare the Focus ST (GS) to the Mazdaspeed 3 (DS) and overall they were more or less tied across the board on weight, power, performance, handling, etc. So the main difference in my eyes is that the ST has the favorable index.

Considering that in my area Chicago/Milwaukee I was battling with a solid driver last year in an MS3 in RTF, and that I usually managed to edge him on index but not raw time - then the ST probably will do quite well with the right driver IMO.
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:23 PM   #476
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SRT4, MS/3, ST do all seem to be of a type. Dunno why they're not all classed together. But I still think their advantages are course dependent.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:16 PM   #477
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Agreed, however MS3 & ST are more similar in weight and power. The SRT4 is at least a couple hundred pounds lighter and down 20+ hp.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:17 PM   #478
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Then there's us!
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:24 PM   #479
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So I'm down at the SD TOUR and the car will not rotate. I just dialed in a bunch of toe out but have no way to measure it. 4 marks each side. Anyone know what a mark.equals in inches?
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:43 PM   #480
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I think each mark is 1mm toe, not sure how that relates to degrees but there's some math you can do to figure that out.
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:35 PM   #481
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No, I use inches...that would be a little over 1/4". My guess is it may actually be over 1/2". Probably way too much, but this time tomorrow I'll know.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:34 PM   #482
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I don't know, but I can tell that just because both sides are set the same it doesn't mean both sides are set the same. There's some wiggle room at the front arm bracket as well.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:40 PM   #483
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And the answer is...it STILL doesn't rotate. Well, maybe a little on occasion. Killed off most of the numbing understeer though.

I checked my camber this morning as I always do because it's been known to slip. All okay. Showed up in grid and while examining the rear wheels for their new-found toe-out, I realized that my front is significantly toed in. I had set it to 1/4" out and now it's probably an inch in. I haven't a clue how or when that happened since the camber is still okay. Makes no sense.

Having no option I ran it that way on first run, added a little front toe out for the second and a bunch of toe out for the third. I was running uncontested, so had nothing to lose. Monitored all runs with a DL1. My best time and my best lateral g's were on run 2 -- A little front toe out and a lot of rear toe out. Adding more front toe out resulted in my poorest lateral g's of the weekend but only dropped my time by .1 sec. Mr Loring...when you ran rear toe out for rotation, do you remember how much? I'm thinking I'll set it to 1/4" out front and 1/2" out rear. And have a custom tool kit with me in grid. I think I can adjust any corner in under 30 seconds with the right tools.

I'm now suspicious of my tires. I meant to rotate them regularly, but they wore so fast (and I was lazy and inattentive) that I wore the front grooves almost gone. Possibly the compound is cooked.

Next event I'll get everything aligned properly and either swap the tires F/R or run new fronts against old rears. Maybe that will get me rotation.
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:21 PM   #484
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Were you running on concrete? Peru and Nationals were my first two concrete events just last year and lack of rotation was a problem. Especially at the first event in Peru. I don't really experience that issue on asphalt. I daily drive so I couldn't get away with lots of toe and camber. What's the DL1?
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:50 PM   #485
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I don't think we ever measured the numbers on the rear, we just eyeballed about as much as we could get on one side, then matched that on the other. As I recall, one side got more than the other, so we did our best keep it even. Brian Priebe was the guy who helped me with this the first time, but it was all very "seat of the pants." The car was spooky on the street, and would shred rear tires that way, so you had to change it at the event. It's very easy to change, but doing it accurately and repeatably is going to be a challenge. The notches on the washer don't really mean anything, because there's so much slop in the system.

What rear shocks are you using? Are they DA? Have you tried a rear bar?

I've had pretty much no problem with alignment slipping to any great degree, I'm not sure why yours is moving so much. Perhaps there's some rust on the gripping surfaces of the struts, and that's causing things to slip?
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:52 PM   #486
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Were you running on concrete? Peru and Nationals were my first two concrete events just last year and lack of rotation was a problem. Especially at the first event in Peru. I don't really experience that issue on asphalt. I daily drive so I couldn't get away with lots of toe and camber. What's the DL1?
No, the Tour was at Qualcom Stadium...aging asphalt. DL1 is a gps data logger by Race Technologies. Front tires going dead would probably explain lack of rotation. No easy way to evaluate a tire. But swapping them front to rear should tell the tale.

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I don't think we ever measured the numbers on the rear, we just eyeballed about as much as we could get on one side, then matched that on the other. As I recall, one side got more than the other, so we did our best keep it even. Brian Priebe was the guy who helped me with this the first time, but it was all very "seat of the pants." The car was spooky on the street, and would shred rear tires that way, so you had to change it at the event. It's very easy to change, but doing it accurately and repeatably is going to be a challenge. The notches on the washer don't really mean anything, because there's so much slop in the system.

What rear shocks are you using? Are they DA? Have you tried a rear bar?

I've had pretty much no problem with alignment slipping to any great degree, I'm not sure why yours is moving so much. Perhaps there's some rust on the gripping surfaces of the struts, and that's causing things to slip?
I like SOP. I'm going to make marks on the cam for 1/2" out, 1/4" out and zero. I agree it won't be very repeatable or precise but I'm not sure how important that is.

Koni Sport rear shocks, made from Scion. I have the big Hotchkiss rear bar.

AFAIK the struts didn't slip or I would have lost camber. I had neg 3 degrees both fronts this morning. I don't know how I can lose toe-out while maintaining camber, but I'll spend some effort trying to find the problem.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:00 PM   #487
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was loss equal on both sides?
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:09 PM   #488
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was loss equal on both sides?
Actually no. Driver's side was more toed-in than passenger. First thing I'm going to do is put accurate match marks on the strut to spindleplate and then loosen bolts and see if it's still at max negative. Maybe just a small amount of slip occured and maybe even a small slip has large effect on toe. Just something to check out. Makes as much sense as anything else I can come up with.

Edit, took final measurements here at home. Front was 15/16" out. I was expecting about 3/4". Rear was only 3/8" out. Was expecting about 1/2". My best run probably had front toe at about 1/2" out. Think I'll go with 3/8" x 3/8" for next event. And this time remember to pack my toe plates.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:30 PM   #489
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Has the engine cradle or control arms shifted? Is anything bent? Did the steering rack shift? The stock rack bushings are atrocious!

vs
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:21 PM   #490
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What methods does everyone here use for measuring and changing the alignment? Personally I use a level with digital readout to check camber and jack stands with string plus measuring tape to check the toe. However even though this is rather economical it wouldn't be a very practical way to go if I realized that I needed changes "on the grid".
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:28 AM   #491
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Toe with the wheels hanging isn't very good since camber and toe go hand in hand (with caster too). You really want the wheels on some plates to allow them to move freely when making adjustments, impractical as that is.

Oh, I use the full computerized alignment machine at work on lunch for free :-D
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:54 AM   #492
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What methods does everyone here use for measuring and changing the alignment? Personally I use a level with digital readout to check camber and jack stands with string plus measuring tape to check the toe. However even though this is rather economical it wouldn't be a very practical way to go if I realized that I needed changes "on the grid".
That works. I have some more accurate ways and some quicker ways. How about we start a separate thread?
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:44 AM   #493
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Starting to do my rear shocks now. Anyone have links for rear shock DIY handy just in case I need it? As I forgot to look that up ahead of time.
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:04 AM   #494
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It doesn't seem that hard, but as Andy T. mentioned to me, the shock didn't clear on way out, so got get some rusty bolts off.

Installing KYB AGX in rear... did you guys cut just interior plastic panel for the adjuster knob or part of the plastic tray too? Also, do these adjuster knobs stay in place or do I need to glue them on with something?
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:11 AM   #495
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If you take loose the three bolts for the front bushing of the rear LCA you can swing it around some and slip the strut out and the new one in. As for the adjuster, not sure. My BC's have an extender which attaches to the top and I threaded that down the cut away in the plastics for the TRD rear bar.

it's been forever since I've worked with AGX's. I remember my friends Eclipse a decade ago, they came with a little screw driver to make the adjustments!
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:50 AM   #496
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Got one rear shock assembled, going in really soon. Well the adjuster knob, anyone... does it stay on or can it fall off? Wondering if I should glue it on with something?
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:55 PM   #497
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LIL dab o silicone won't hurt and it could be pulled off later.
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:21 PM   #498
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Both KYB AGX rear shocks are in. The adjuster knob sits REALLY high up in there as they made the shock piston rod longer. Gotta cut some plastic now on interior panel... anyone have photos of this?
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:11 PM   #499
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What is your rear camber set at bill? Ive kept mine about 1.5 negative with close to factory toe in. I've never had a problem with rotation but I also don't run a square tire setup. I either run 225/205 or 275/205. My car rotates beautifully and hardly uses the rear 205s at all. I probably won't have to replace them all season. it is dialed in right now. 13th overall in dixie and top ten against some of the best in the northeast yesterday.

Hope all went well with the install john

I don't have much hope for the st focus. It has too much power for street tires and only comes with an e diff. It is also 3000 lbs. It will suffer as much or more than ms3s. If the class structure stays similar with the new street classes the celica will still be a great car. The srt is traction limited on rcomps so on streets it will be awful. Like all the st classes the lightest cars typically have the best chance of using the tire the best.
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:14 PM   #500
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Quote:
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What is your rear camber set at bill? Ive kept mine about 1.5 negative with close to factory toe in. I've never had a problem with rotation but I also don't run a square tire setup.
My initial setup was max possible camber all around. (about -3 F/R) While that might be too much, you wouldn't know it from the tread scrub, which looks really good front and rear.

I'd bet 75 cents that my problem is tire condition related. I'm thinking I cooked the fronts and a replacement pair should be here any day. I'm not going to make any changes or decisions until I sort out the tires. I seem to have schedule conflicts for the next couple months events, so no big hurry.
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