Hey, applaud the wiring harness, too. Now I have IAC, O2 sensor, AFM, and random other stuff that was broken in the harness before. Car idles normally now (used to idle low when cold, high when warm ), and it boosts nicely in neutral.
AC fixed, leaned out the intake by spacing the MAFS out about 2mm, going to check LFT in a few days to see what effect it's had. Feels slightly snappier, but butt dyno is too inaccurate.
leaned out the intake by spacing the MAFS out about 2mm, going to check LFT in a few days to see what effect it's had. Feels slightly snappier, but butt dyno is too inaccurate.
Hmmm that's weird, if the airflow in the pipe is laminar then moving the MAF to a different location shouldn't affect its readings (unless you move it into a boundary layer near one of the walls) but if you're only moving it 2mm I don't think you'd be hitting one. Is this on a stock intake or what?
K&N CAI. My understanding is that the air in the center is moving slower and as you near the walls it exponentially moves faster till the boundary layer which is pretty still air.
I don't totally understand the mechanics behind it, but it does alter the MAFS readings. If you move it too much you'll throw a lean code (P0171). If you're running way negative trims then this could be a cheap way to correct the issue in a round about way.
Edit, I had the first part totally backwards duh! due to friction the center moves faster than the outer air which is slowed by the air against the pipe walls. Imagine pouring honey down a pipe, honey in the middle flows faster because it's self lubricating...duh! Air is a fluid after all, right? So by decreasing the air velocity that the MAFS sits in you're reducing the amount of air it's reading. It's a hot wire sensor type, which is outlined here: www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf So by just altering the air velocity you can alter the amount of air read which is why those 3" intakes don't work with the stock ECM, the air is moving too slow most of the time to be read correctly...in theory you could run whatever sized (over stock size) as long as you find the sweet spot to mount the MAFS in terms of the depth into the air stream to get the 'stock' reading at the correct air velocity. That's why the fins are there, not to straighten the air but I think to speed it up around the sensor to give it a more accurate reading maybe. That's the one thing I'm not 100% sure on.
I'd love to be able to move the sensor closer to the throttle to see what happens there, I've read about doing that to other cars to get the engine to respond faster to changes in throttle opening since the inrush of air is closer to the sensor.
^ Haha, yea I actually had the velocity profile pictured backwards when I was thinking about it, of course it be a damn parabola . Anyway I'm not sure moving it towards the throttle body would be very beneficial, I'm fairly certain it would just make the MAF act weird as the air "tumbles" into the throttle body when it opens. Not for sure though...you first.
Anyway I went and picked up some 4" piping today for the exhaust and got some more gas.
Parked my car under a trailer and took a pic. I sent it to my friends wife, who immediately called because she thought it had been run over. Wish I knew how to post a picture from my iPhone...
:-| AC is not fixed, still have a leak at the high side line into the condenser. I need to get a better look in there, it could be a corrosion issue. If that's the case I'll clean it really good and just glue it together with ultra gray and keep my fingers crossed. I think the bolt threads are weak too, I didn't like how it felt when I tightened it down...May need to drill through to run a nut and bolt on it. Argh.
I finished welding the rear subframe and got halfway through making a new exhaust tunnel. Gotta get the car higher tomorrow so I can finish welding the frame rails near the front K-member.
funny pun is funny. Yea,not cool. It's leaking AC oil from the connection which is how I knew I was leaking from there. Only leak I've seen in the system. Condenser is pretty bad looking on the bottom rows so the only solution may be to replace that line and condenser.... Not going to happen now, will ghetto fix it first.
hmmm...Might go and wash/polish/wax mine later back in my friends barn in prep for next saturdays meet. nothing like being able to wash your car indoors, and as a bonus I'm washing the cement floor at the same time.
Yeah. There are only a couple spots that bother me. But most of the clear coat in some spots look like it has water marks. Even after I wash, wax ect. That kinda bothers me. Might give it a go in a small spot on my trunk that is already scratched up kinda bad. Can't really get worse than it is on the clear and it is only a 2-3" area max so not that noticeable if something goes wrong lol
If they are hard water stains that hopefully aren't TOO baked on, use distilled white vinegar and just rub it on with a cloth and wipe it off. Repeat as needed
Spent like 5 hours cleaning the intercooler pipes, MAF sensor, blowoff and whatnot after they got filled with water from the constant raining. Really pisses me off when it rains so much. Also planned to route piping from the turbine inlet to the upper part of the motor to avoid this
Which way does the comp inlet face? I had a tube running from the passenger side headlight over the valve cover and into the turbo for a while because I kept sucking up water.
Changed the oil today, cleaned the MAF, Cleaned the throttle body, wash and waxed it:gap:
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